Aloha Tribe,
Yesterday in the Wilds, the surfing was utterly primal, feral, wild, untamed, and about as chaotically intense as it typically gets.
I brought three of my Alaias and my Paipo, along with my Rescue Swimmer Riverboard and all of my Coast Guard Rescue Swimmer and Beach Rescue gear with me for some hardcore practice and training.
The wind was gusting to about 43 mph, the rain torrentially biting like machine gun bullets, the waves were Blown Out of course as they usually are with driving Voodoo Mist, and nobody was in the water, on the beach, nor even in the entire area, except for several groups of Sea Lions, which enjoyed a rollicking game of Tag and Hide and Seek with me. Some of them were pretty good size, well over 7 foot it appeared.
It was, a perfect day for surfing at the Wilds. Dangerous, sure. Foolish, of course. But what's a girl to do when that is the Home Break? After all, I've been in much more intense than this.
The Alaias, by the way, without a Rocker or Fin as you all know, lead to interesting experiementation and improvization especially in wildy chaotic waters so you don't Pearl or Dig a Rail.
Oh, and the Line Up, had there been one, was a mile out to sea fighting mountains of raging water every step of the way to get there for unlike on the North Shore of Oahus where there Swells and Periods are perfect and you have just one wave to more or less get over slide over after easy gliding paddles between Swells, here in the Wilds, you have hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of Peaks to attack during the Paddle Out. It'll work your paddling, that's for sure.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
Yesterday in the Wilds, the surfing was utterly primal, feral, wild, untamed, and about as chaotically intense as it typically gets.
I brought three of my Alaias and my Paipo, along with my Rescue Swimmer Riverboard and all of my Coast Guard Rescue Swimmer and Beach Rescue gear with me for some hardcore practice and training.
The wind was gusting to about 43 mph, the rain torrentially biting like machine gun bullets, the waves were Blown Out of course as they usually are with driving Voodoo Mist, and nobody was in the water, on the beach, nor even in the entire area, except for several groups of Sea Lions, which enjoyed a rollicking game of Tag and Hide and Seek with me. Some of them were pretty good size, well over 7 foot it appeared.
It was, a perfect day for surfing at the Wilds. Dangerous, sure. Foolish, of course. But what's a girl to do when that is the Home Break? After all, I've been in much more intense than this.
The Alaias, by the way, without a Rocker or Fin as you all know, lead to interesting experiementation and improvization especially in wildy chaotic waters so you don't Pearl or Dig a Rail.
Oh, and the Line Up, had there been one, was a mile out to sea fighting mountains of raging water every step of the way to get there for unlike on the North Shore of Oahus where there Swells and Periods are perfect and you have just one wave to more or less get over slide over after easy gliding paddles between Swells, here in the Wilds, you have hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of Peaks to attack during the Paddle Out. It'll work your paddling, that's for sure.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
