Aloha Tribe,
Well, here it is, New Years Eve between 2010 and 2011. I just got done watching the awesome surfer movie Surfer, Dude staring Matthew McConaughey.
I utterly loved it!!!
As a Soul Surfer, the movie way so made sense to me. I could so relate to his way of seeing life. Wow, I wish I had known he was making the film, I'd have given anything to be a part of it in way, especially in writing and surfing for I so love both.
Now, the movie seems to have confused most film critics and almost all who don't surf who see it. Well, hey, that's there problem. The film was totally bodacious. It was about soul, through and through. And, if you're a surfer and you don't see that in the film, then, you need to take some steps back and think about why you surf. Go back in time and remember when you were a kook and a grom, remember when you started. And, find that lost surfer within yourself. All you need do, is to remember and feel again, your first time. Your first time for everything. Surfing, your first wave, screwing, weed, really getting it, hanging with brahs in slightly illegal activities, all those firsts. And, then, embrace that moment as you travel through time in your life to those days, however brief they may have been, when you too were a Soul Surfer, for, all of us were there, and, within each of us, we still are there.
The movie is not a "surfing," movie per say, with tons of surfing, but it is more than that, it is deeper than that, for it is truly a movie about surfers. And with that, what it really means to be a Soul Surfer.
I'd love to say to Matthew, "thank you!!!" And, I mean that genuinely and purely from my heart, for the film truly touched my soul. Twirls and spins of great joy.
I recommend you all buy a copy and watch it. And sure, it's not about radical thrashing, but who cares. It's about something important, something that so many of us out in the water have lost, it's a movie about what surfing really is about. The ride. The stoke. The waves. Love. Weed. And Brahs.
In presenting Soul Surfers, the movie got it right. Matthew had one board, and, one awesome set of stripped boardies (or as they'd simply call them on the North Shore, shorts). It's funny how we've named jams (originally named from pajamas, by the way), boardies, and baggies, and now, we simply call them shorts. The thing is, for the legends out there, one used to have just one pair back in the day, and, you wore them until they fell off from falling apart. They were so individual, you could tell a brah from his shorts. Just as you could tell him from his board. And, his style. That's when Soul Surfing was Soul Surfing, and, this movie captures that so awesomely. Sure, there's surfers out there who might not like the movie because they'll say it doesn't have enough surfing, or, perhaps even that the surfiing doesn't match their current modern aerial thrashing style, but, if that's how you feel, then you so don't get what Soul is all about. And this movie has it. The movie has the single board, the single pair of shorts, the Surfish Language, the bounding of surf brahs, in fact, the movie was even made that way, that is, Matthew got a bunch of his long-time friends together, brahs he'd know for a lifetime, and they made the movie. Just like the Old-School surf movies were really done. So, bottom line, I say this movie is so much deeper than almost everybody seems to get. And in that, lies its magic. For, truly, those who need it, at the time they see it, in the way they see it, will find this movie, and more so, they'll get it.
I'm so glad this is how I spent my New Years Eve, because watching the movie inspired me to look at my surfing with fresh eyes, to feel my rides even as I write these words. I feel as passionate about the surf this very second as I ever have, and, I have Surer, Dude movie to thank for it. So, Matthew, with full passion, "thank you!!!"
I wish with all of my heart that your movie had made you millions. But, you know, it's done something more, for it has offered Soul Surfing with fresh stoke to all who watch it and understand what it's really all about. And one can't help but smile with genuine sparkling eyes at that!!!
Oh, and, speaking as a girl who's studied Chi Gung since the age of 5, and, is a Surf Shaman able to call waves, I loved the scenes of Matthew's character fasting, making his bonfire, sacrificing his board, and dancing, all to call the swells. For, all of that has been done by surfers, and is still being done by Soul Surfers, and more so, when you really know how to do it, that stuff really works. In fact, it actually would be fun to share how it works if anybody is interested. It could be explained in Surfish terms, Shamanistically, and, most easily with Chi Gung for the words are there. The point is, they got it right when they made the film. We, as members of the Tribe, through us all being surfers, have our own culture, our own language, our own gods, our own rituals, and, this movie touched upon these so beautifully. This movie is deep, brahs, and, it so truly can bring you back to the very core of Soul Surfing.
Here's what you do. Get your brahs together, and, it's NEW YEARS DAY today so go surf. It's a moral imperative!!! And then, tonight, gather up some beer and weed and one grinds (I'm grilling venison and fish tacos for all who happen by, so, come, all are welcome, simply come to the wilds), all your brahs, and some beach bunnies, and find a place to hang, watch the movie, and let go. We as surfers can change the world brahs, like we once did before. Surfing needs us. The world needs us. It's time to go back to the days of the Soul Surfer, to unite as a Tribe again, to stop our silly local beefs and embrace one another, just like in the movie, for that too was shown (with a breakfast burrito). Let the world fuck itself in this new year and as for all of us, lets go back to screwing at the beach, covered in sand and surf wax.
God I loved this movie. Now, I gotta go surf!!! I'm so excited about the New Year coming, 2011 is going to be utterly and way totally bodacious, and you know something, for me at least, it all began, right here, right now, tonight, watching Matthew's movie.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
Friday, December 31, 2010
Monday, December 27, 2010
The 12 Days (14) of Christmas Surfing for Style
Aloha Tribe,
Well, today is the 1st Day of Christmas. If you've been able to follow along, hopefully you were able to surf on Christmas Eve (yes, at night, at Midnight, under the Full Moon - with a Lunar Eclipse, I might add), Christmas Morning (at the very least on Christmas Day), and, now, today and for the next 11 more Days, leading to a total of 14 Days of Christmas Surfing during the "12 Days" of Christmas. As most know, Christmas Day counts as Day 0, yesterday was Day 1, which makes today, Monday, Day 2.
The idea, is to pick something that, to you, is important to work on, a great thing, especially at this time of year, is, Style.
You see, the Holiday Season, regardless of ones faith or religion or anything of the sort, is a great time to focus one personal growth, and, as surfers and members of The Tribe, we all would naturally, by our very love of the sea, gravitate towards honing our surfing, for, what else is there, eh brahs?
And, what could be an overall greater sense of surfing sense, than, Style.
Thus, I'm focusing each day of the 12 Days of Christmas, all 14 of them, on working on making my Style softer, more graceful, smoother, more relaxed, more feminine (you boys don't have to focus on this one of course, unless, you are truly comfortable with your sexual identity, naturally - in which case I say, "go for it" for it truly would greater mellow out your surfing), more flowing, more mellow, more hippy girl (yes, I hug waves, sing to sea turtles, dance with dolphins, and genuinely smile with twinkling eyes at all fishes - yes, even those big fish we tend to not really want to think about), and, in a single word, more beautiful.
To do this, I'm doing a number of things in my training, which include, more or less all of the balance type training I've been doing for quite some time now, but with the added focus and attention to making every subtle body shift as smooth, natural, flowing, and beautiful as possible. In this way, as my dynamic balance adjusts while surfing, it offers me total control of each and every fraction of a mm of movement and fraction of a second of time. This type of training teaches you to "slow time," by actually allowing you and forcing you to think quicker, much much quicker, up to a rate of about 1/25 of a second as far as reaction time goes. Technically, you'll learn to move, think, and sense even faster than that for you can train yourself to work within that 1/25th of a second as a form of performance art, allowing creative expression of each moment. This, of course, offers then all kinds of potential and artistic experimentation on the waves, in ways you've not ever thought of before.
The key to this focus of Surfing Style for lightning fast movements with seemingly time stopping awareness, is, slowness. Extreme slowness in your training. Which involves truly feeling and sensing each and every fiber of your muscles as they pull and relax with your movements. For those who love this kind of experimentation, what you are learning here, is, Chi Gung Surfing Style, for, in such a time stopping sense of awareness and focus, you can then go deeper, much much much deeper, to the inner level of your bodies energy flow. And that, brahs, is where the real fun begins!!! For, it is the first step.
Many, of course, most actually, even with a lifetime of surfing, will never reach this lowest or first step, but, for those in-the-know, namely, those who hope for and dream of such surfing mastery, such a quest could be not followed, for it draws and sings to the soul of the Vagabond Feral Surfer with such intensity, that it can't be ignored. Hmm, hopefully there wasn't too many double negatives there for that to make sense, goodness. Bottom line, the more you do it, the more you do it, and, the more you have to do it.
Eh brahs, even if you've not been doing this kind of surfing for the last 4 days (including today), there's no reason to not start right now!!! And, if you can't surf every day, hey, that's cool, surf as much as you can. And, when you're beached, simply work on your Style in the sand, in your yard, in a park, or in your home. Wherevers brahs.
I just got off a several hour slackline session, where I focused on my Pop Ups and my Style for Dropping Down the Face before the Bottom Turn, while on the slackline, Pretty way awesomely bodacious fun that!!! You all so must try it. Get a slackline, or, a rope, or, even as the Father of Bouldering John Gill taught me, use a chain, and, suspend it between two supports like trees, boulders, your car and maybe a trained elephant (naturally, it would be a tamed one that loves playing in this kind of way) or whatevers, and try it. Working the chain is way Old-School when it comes to slacklining, incidentally, and it was John Gill who developed it about 20 years before modern slacklining was invented with the mountain climbing webbing that we all use today. Slacklines, by the way, are great ways to train because they offer dynamic motion which presents you with a myriad of opportunites for play and experimentation. And, if you want something even tougher, try soft roping also called loose roping on a loosely hung rope, now that's real fun brahs!!! Slacklines, by the way, are typically tensioned so they are level with the ground prior to you stepping on them, whereas a loose rope is suspended like the letter U, only not as dramatically, of course, and more stretched out a bit, depending upon your anchor points, naturally, you could, if you like think of it as looking like a super bodaciously aweome smile, which, is how I love to see my loose rope. I'm into smiles I guess. It comes from truly living and dancing in-the-moment, each and every second of life - which, for me, came about because of my several near-death accidents at various times in my life. Whatevers. Smile at the world, it's a lot more fun. And, you know, it'll make your surfing much better too!!!
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
Well, today is the 1st Day of Christmas. If you've been able to follow along, hopefully you were able to surf on Christmas Eve (yes, at night, at Midnight, under the Full Moon - with a Lunar Eclipse, I might add), Christmas Morning (at the very least on Christmas Day), and, now, today and for the next 11 more Days, leading to a total of 14 Days of Christmas Surfing during the "12 Days" of Christmas. As most know, Christmas Day counts as Day 0, yesterday was Day 1, which makes today, Monday, Day 2.
The idea, is to pick something that, to you, is important to work on, a great thing, especially at this time of year, is, Style.
You see, the Holiday Season, regardless of ones faith or religion or anything of the sort, is a great time to focus one personal growth, and, as surfers and members of The Tribe, we all would naturally, by our very love of the sea, gravitate towards honing our surfing, for, what else is there, eh brahs?
And, what could be an overall greater sense of surfing sense, than, Style.
Thus, I'm focusing each day of the 12 Days of Christmas, all 14 of them, on working on making my Style softer, more graceful, smoother, more relaxed, more feminine (you boys don't have to focus on this one of course, unless, you are truly comfortable with your sexual identity, naturally - in which case I say, "go for it" for it truly would greater mellow out your surfing), more flowing, more mellow, more hippy girl (yes, I hug waves, sing to sea turtles, dance with dolphins, and genuinely smile with twinkling eyes at all fishes - yes, even those big fish we tend to not really want to think about), and, in a single word, more beautiful.
To do this, I'm doing a number of things in my training, which include, more or less all of the balance type training I've been doing for quite some time now, but with the added focus and attention to making every subtle body shift as smooth, natural, flowing, and beautiful as possible. In this way, as my dynamic balance adjusts while surfing, it offers me total control of each and every fraction of a mm of movement and fraction of a second of time. This type of training teaches you to "slow time," by actually allowing you and forcing you to think quicker, much much quicker, up to a rate of about 1/25 of a second as far as reaction time goes. Technically, you'll learn to move, think, and sense even faster than that for you can train yourself to work within that 1/25th of a second as a form of performance art, allowing creative expression of each moment. This, of course, offers then all kinds of potential and artistic experimentation on the waves, in ways you've not ever thought of before.
The key to this focus of Surfing Style for lightning fast movements with seemingly time stopping awareness, is, slowness. Extreme slowness in your training. Which involves truly feeling and sensing each and every fiber of your muscles as they pull and relax with your movements. For those who love this kind of experimentation, what you are learning here, is, Chi Gung Surfing Style, for, in such a time stopping sense of awareness and focus, you can then go deeper, much much much deeper, to the inner level of your bodies energy flow. And that, brahs, is where the real fun begins!!! For, it is the first step.
Many, of course, most actually, even with a lifetime of surfing, will never reach this lowest or first step, but, for those in-the-know, namely, those who hope for and dream of such surfing mastery, such a quest could be not followed, for it draws and sings to the soul of the Vagabond Feral Surfer with such intensity, that it can't be ignored. Hmm, hopefully there wasn't too many double negatives there for that to make sense, goodness. Bottom line, the more you do it, the more you do it, and, the more you have to do it.
Eh brahs, even if you've not been doing this kind of surfing for the last 4 days (including today), there's no reason to not start right now!!! And, if you can't surf every day, hey, that's cool, surf as much as you can. And, when you're beached, simply work on your Style in the sand, in your yard, in a park, or in your home. Wherevers brahs.
I just got off a several hour slackline session, where I focused on my Pop Ups and my Style for Dropping Down the Face before the Bottom Turn, while on the slackline, Pretty way awesomely bodacious fun that!!! You all so must try it. Get a slackline, or, a rope, or, even as the Father of Bouldering John Gill taught me, use a chain, and, suspend it between two supports like trees, boulders, your car and maybe a trained elephant (naturally, it would be a tamed one that loves playing in this kind of way) or whatevers, and try it. Working the chain is way Old-School when it comes to slacklining, incidentally, and it was John Gill who developed it about 20 years before modern slacklining was invented with the mountain climbing webbing that we all use today. Slacklines, by the way, are great ways to train because they offer dynamic motion which presents you with a myriad of opportunites for play and experimentation. And, if you want something even tougher, try soft roping also called loose roping on a loosely hung rope, now that's real fun brahs!!! Slacklines, by the way, are typically tensioned so they are level with the ground prior to you stepping on them, whereas a loose rope is suspended like the letter U, only not as dramatically, of course, and more stretched out a bit, depending upon your anchor points, naturally, you could, if you like think of it as looking like a super bodaciously aweome smile, which, is how I love to see my loose rope. I'm into smiles I guess. It comes from truly living and dancing in-the-moment, each and every second of life - which, for me, came about because of my several near-death accidents at various times in my life. Whatevers. Smile at the world, it's a lot more fun. And, you know, it'll make your surfing much better too!!!
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
Saturday, December 25, 2010
Merry Christmas!!! GO SURFING!!!!!!
MERRY CHRISTMAS TRIBE,
Now, go Surf!!!
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
Now, go Surf!!!
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
Tuesday, December 21, 2010
Happy Winter Solistice!!!
Aloha Tribe Happy Winter Solstice!!!
Today is the Winter Solstice, a truly magical time of year, in fact, one the most magical and beautiful. So, grab a fish taco for breakfast along the way, head to the beach, wax up your board, and, go surf!!! And let the rest of the world watch, dream, and wonder, but for us, it is a day to live!!! Here, now, this day, for this is the day we have!!!
And tonight, after a day of crazy surfing the wild freezing waters, it'll be time for a true Scottish celebration!!! No matter where you are in the world, all join in. And hey, just eat your local food, all's ono so no worries!!!
As for me and all who find me secret location today, it's loads of Haggis. Neeps. Tatties. Baked Beans. Fish Tacos (of course, it's a moral imperative), Steamed Green Peas, Eggnog Pound Cake with chocolate ice cream and chocolate Sauce, and, all the best Single Malt Scotch you can drink!!!
Come one, come all, it's a Scotthish bash on the loneliest beach on the Scottish North Atlantic. Just look for the "crazy" girl out surfing without a wet suit (it's a Winter Solstice sign of good faith and hope for the coming year as a way of celebrating the beauty of the rising Sun this morning). A quick dip and surf in the frigid waters, then, a copious cup of hot hot hot extremely strong black coffee, then, toss on the wetsuit, jump on your feral vagabond longboard again (or shortboard if that is your nature), and spend the day surfing. Tonight, the feast, dancing, wild fires on the shore, midnight trek through the Highlands to dance some more beneath the stars, and the a hike back for the Full Moon Winter Solstice Loneliest Surf on the Planet Quest!!!
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
Today is the Winter Solstice, a truly magical time of year, in fact, one the most magical and beautiful. So, grab a fish taco for breakfast along the way, head to the beach, wax up your board, and, go surf!!! And let the rest of the world watch, dream, and wonder, but for us, it is a day to live!!! Here, now, this day, for this is the day we have!!!
And tonight, after a day of crazy surfing the wild freezing waters, it'll be time for a true Scottish celebration!!! No matter where you are in the world, all join in. And hey, just eat your local food, all's ono so no worries!!!
As for me and all who find me secret location today, it's loads of Haggis. Neeps. Tatties. Baked Beans. Fish Tacos (of course, it's a moral imperative), Steamed Green Peas, Eggnog Pound Cake with chocolate ice cream and chocolate Sauce, and, all the best Single Malt Scotch you can drink!!!
Come one, come all, it's a Scotthish bash on the loneliest beach on the Scottish North Atlantic. Just look for the "crazy" girl out surfing without a wet suit (it's a Winter Solstice sign of good faith and hope for the coming year as a way of celebrating the beauty of the rising Sun this morning). A quick dip and surf in the frigid waters, then, a copious cup of hot hot hot extremely strong black coffee, then, toss on the wetsuit, jump on your feral vagabond longboard again (or shortboard if that is your nature), and spend the day surfing. Tonight, the feast, dancing, wild fires on the shore, midnight trek through the Highlands to dance some more beneath the stars, and the a hike back for the Full Moon Winter Solstice Loneliest Surf on the Planet Quest!!!
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
Sunday, December 19, 2010
Surfer's Christmas Eve AND Christmas Day Ono Grinds from the Wilds
Aloha Tribe,
So, I've worked out my Vietnamese/French Bamboo Circus Styled Christmas Eve surfer's meal. Golly I wish and hope some if not all of you will be around. Head to the wildest places on the planet, and, you'll find me there. Come, pull up your board, have a seat, and, feast on some awesome grinds, yah? All are welcome. Oh, by the way, the inner lining of a military poncho makes the perfect surfer's blanket, according to my surfing and watergirl mentor Darrick Doerner (DD) for Winter Surfing.
CHRISTMAS EVE SURFER'S MEAL:
Fish Tacos - as a member of the Tribe, one must always have plenty of fish tacos on hand!!!
Pork and Shrimp Bonh Mi (Vietnamese sandwiches) - with fish sauce
Pho (Vietnamese beef noodle soup) - with fish sauce
Christmas Eve Pear Tart
Chili Lime Dipping Sauce - with fish sauce
Sweet Soy Dipping Sauce - with fish sauce
White Long Grain Rice - with fish sauce
Hot Cocoa
CHRISTMAS DAY SURFER'S MEAL
Fish Tacos - Yummy :)
Vietnamese Spring Rolls
Vietnamese Sweet Soy Dipping Sauce
Vietnames Chili Lime Dipping Sauce
Vietnamese White Long Grain Rice
Vietnamese Catfish in a Clay Pot
Vietnamese Winter Squash with Coconut Milk
French Stuffed Rabbit
French Ratatouille
French Classic Creme Brulee
Hot Chocolate
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
So, I've worked out my Vietnamese/French Bamboo Circus Styled Christmas Eve surfer's meal. Golly I wish and hope some if not all of you will be around. Head to the wildest places on the planet, and, you'll find me there. Come, pull up your board, have a seat, and, feast on some awesome grinds, yah? All are welcome. Oh, by the way, the inner lining of a military poncho makes the perfect surfer's blanket, according to my surfing and watergirl mentor Darrick Doerner (DD) for Winter Surfing.
CHRISTMAS EVE SURFER'S MEAL:
Fish Tacos - as a member of the Tribe, one must always have plenty of fish tacos on hand!!!
Pork and Shrimp Bonh Mi (Vietnamese sandwiches) - with fish sauce
Pho (Vietnamese beef noodle soup) - with fish sauce
Christmas Eve Pear Tart
Chili Lime Dipping Sauce - with fish sauce
Sweet Soy Dipping Sauce - with fish sauce
White Long Grain Rice - with fish sauce
Hot Cocoa
CHRISTMAS DAY SURFER'S MEAL
Fish Tacos - Yummy :)
Vietnamese Spring Rolls
Vietnamese Sweet Soy Dipping Sauce
Vietnames Chili Lime Dipping Sauce
Vietnamese White Long Grain Rice
Vietnamese Catfish in a Clay Pot
Vietnamese Winter Squash with Coconut Milk
French Stuffed Rabbit
French Ratatouille
French Classic Creme Brulee
Hot Chocolate
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
Surfer's Solstice Solitude Session
Aloha Tribe,
What could be more of a Winter Solstice Surfing Solitude Session than surfing or, if you can't at least celebrating the wilds of the wilds in Northern Scotland, out in the wind beaten Outer Hebrides where only the brave dare surf alone by eating after your frigid days icy North Atlantic thrashing by grinding Haggis, Neeps and Tatties. Totally ono, eh brahs?
As for breakfast, post - Dawn Patrol: one staves off freezing to death with pounds of rashers, mushrooms, baked beans, grilled tomatoes, black pudding, white pudding, haggis, juice, cereal (oatmeal or if you're a real Scott, rough cut boiled barley, all gulped down with copious quantities of fresh icy cold milk.
Winter Solstice, a mystical magical time of the year for surfing, especially midnight surfing. This year, it'll be particularly bodacious because of the full moon at Winter Solstice.
So, wax up your stealth boards, pack a hamper loaded to the gills with hearty food, and set off for the surf of a lifetime in the wild of wilds.
Surfing with herds of hords is great fun, I'll be the first to shout that from the top of a party wave, but, at a time like the pure creative waves offered only at this time of year, when all the seas creatures rise to the surface of the surfing swells, to sing and dance and play in the moonlight with any surfer bold enough to sit alone at midnight, under a full moon, on the most magical, mysterious, beautiful night of the year.
If any of you want the surf of a lifetime, where you can truly find out who you are, and why you surf, and what the secret of surfing is truly all about, the mysteries of the sea, the songs that call us to dance upon the water, well, then you way so must seek the wilds where ever you are.
On a night like this, you are not seeking the normal breaks you typically surf day in and day out, for you don't want the crowds, nor, quite frankly, the familiarity. You want someplace new to you, someplace where you can stetch your legs on your surfboard, let your hair down, and toss your string bikini or boardies to the sea, and surf, if even only for one wave, in your purest form of physical expression. Just you, your board, and the water. Sure, even where I surf the wilds, the water will bite deep with frigid temperatures, but no matter, Surfer Up (the surfers version of cowboy up) and do it. It's exhilerating, wildly fun, and, a true treat for all of your normally domesticated senses. Cut free your harness and reins of life and surf with total abandon.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
What could be more of a Winter Solstice Surfing Solitude Session than surfing or, if you can't at least celebrating the wilds of the wilds in Northern Scotland, out in the wind beaten Outer Hebrides where only the brave dare surf alone by eating after your frigid days icy North Atlantic thrashing by grinding Haggis, Neeps and Tatties. Totally ono, eh brahs?
As for breakfast, post - Dawn Patrol: one staves off freezing to death with pounds of rashers, mushrooms, baked beans, grilled tomatoes, black pudding, white pudding, haggis, juice, cereal (oatmeal or if you're a real Scott, rough cut boiled barley, all gulped down with copious quantities of fresh icy cold milk.
Winter Solstice, a mystical magical time of the year for surfing, especially midnight surfing. This year, it'll be particularly bodacious because of the full moon at Winter Solstice.
So, wax up your stealth boards, pack a hamper loaded to the gills with hearty food, and set off for the surf of a lifetime in the wild of wilds.
Surfing with herds of hords is great fun, I'll be the first to shout that from the top of a party wave, but, at a time like the pure creative waves offered only at this time of year, when all the seas creatures rise to the surface of the surfing swells, to sing and dance and play in the moonlight with any surfer bold enough to sit alone at midnight, under a full moon, on the most magical, mysterious, beautiful night of the year.
If any of you want the surf of a lifetime, where you can truly find out who you are, and why you surf, and what the secret of surfing is truly all about, the mysteries of the sea, the songs that call us to dance upon the water, well, then you way so must seek the wilds where ever you are.
On a night like this, you are not seeking the normal breaks you typically surf day in and day out, for you don't want the crowds, nor, quite frankly, the familiarity. You want someplace new to you, someplace where you can stetch your legs on your surfboard, let your hair down, and toss your string bikini or boardies to the sea, and surf, if even only for one wave, in your purest form of physical expression. Just you, your board, and the water. Sure, even where I surf the wilds, the water will bite deep with frigid temperatures, but no matter, Surfer Up (the surfers version of cowboy up) and do it. It's exhilerating, wildly fun, and, a true treat for all of your normally domesticated senses. Cut free your harness and reins of life and surf with total abandon.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
Monday, December 6, 2010
A Surfer's Christmas
Aloha Tribe,
Christmas is on it's way soon, in just 20 days or so, which gives me about 3 more weeks before I celebrate getting my Robert August Wingnut longboard last year. It's been an interesting year. My goal was to go from Kahuna Tuna or rank beginner, to big wave rider, in, one year. I have three more weeks about.
It's been a challenge at times, tearing my mensicus like I did, and I'm still sitting here with that, but, well, three weeks is three weeks. So, sometime in the next three weeks I'll get into the perfect wave. I had a shot at that 47 footer back about 6 weeks ago, but that's when fate stepped in that day, making me lose several weeks. But, such is life. In the meantime, my Pidgin and Surfish got to improve quite a bit, so that's a cool thing, and, I got a lot of time to work on trying to develope the perfect Watergirl body, a feat, never possible, of course, but fun anyways.
As most of the Tribe know, Christmas morning is made for, what else, Dawn Patrol surfing. And, Santa, of course. My two favorite S words.
My meal this year for Christmas is based on the theme of a French/Vietnam country vagabond circus. The reason for this, is the tightwire I might be getting from Santa, if I'm good enough. The tightwire, of course, is to be used to help my surfing get wired tight.
So, I'm not fully sure yet what the exact meal will consist of, but it will be a combination of both French foods and Vietnam foods, both, country style.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
Christmas is on it's way soon, in just 20 days or so, which gives me about 3 more weeks before I celebrate getting my Robert August Wingnut longboard last year. It's been an interesting year. My goal was to go from Kahuna Tuna or rank beginner, to big wave rider, in, one year. I have three more weeks about.
It's been a challenge at times, tearing my mensicus like I did, and I'm still sitting here with that, but, well, three weeks is three weeks. So, sometime in the next three weeks I'll get into the perfect wave. I had a shot at that 47 footer back about 6 weeks ago, but that's when fate stepped in that day, making me lose several weeks. But, such is life. In the meantime, my Pidgin and Surfish got to improve quite a bit, so that's a cool thing, and, I got a lot of time to work on trying to develope the perfect Watergirl body, a feat, never possible, of course, but fun anyways.
As most of the Tribe know, Christmas morning is made for, what else, Dawn Patrol surfing. And, Santa, of course. My two favorite S words.
My meal this year for Christmas is based on the theme of a French/Vietnam country vagabond circus. The reason for this, is the tightwire I might be getting from Santa, if I'm good enough. The tightwire, of course, is to be used to help my surfing get wired tight.
So, I'm not fully sure yet what the exact meal will consist of, but it will be a combination of both French foods and Vietnam foods, both, country style.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
Sunday, December 5, 2010
Slacklining Helps You Think Faster: Wanna Surf Well - Think Fast.
Aloha Tribe,
Some of you may by now be getting into slacklining and bringing it to your surfing experience. If so, awesome. You see, by tightrope walking, tightwire walking, slacklining, slack rope walking, and loose rope walking, you are increasing the speed with which you can sense what is happening to your body, specifically, as it relates to balance.
This is extremely important to the surfer because in order to surf great, you need to be able to sense what is happening with your balance very quickly. The thing is, with surfing, it's not uncommon to have as much as 20 minutes or more between rides. Personally, I love the way Darrick Doerner is training me, the second my ride ends, DD has me paddle out of the path of other surfers as fast as I can by heading to the side of where everyone is surfing. Then, as soon as I am out of the way, I paddle my fastest to catch the next wave. Now granted, the reason this worked for us was because there was not a traditional lineup with lots of surfers waiting their turn, thus, there was no reason not to hustle. As such, one can catch a lot of rides. The most I got, in roughly an hour and a half or so session, was 25 rides. While I would have loved that to be even higher, at least it was roughly a ride every 8 minutes or so. In some places, like Sunset Beach on the North Shore, sometimes, one was lucky to get 3 or 4 rides for the day.
And, since a ride typically doesn't last that long, maybe an average of 8 to 10 seconds, that's not a whole lot of training time. On the other hand, on a slackline or similar rope, if you fall off, you simply step right back on. Thus, you can get a lot of balance training in, compared to surfing. This extreme amount of balance training leads to greater balance awareness, which, yields quicker balance thinking.
Here's how it works. When you're on a tightrope, it takes extreme concentration to not fall. And as such, you learn to eventually sense extremely small shifts in your balance, the more you do it. The sooner you can determine if your balance is shifting out of whack, the easier and smoother it is to maintain balance.
The thing is, what you really need to do is to learn to train yourself to perform the best that you can. If you simply walk a line or surf for that matter, mindlessly, even with years of experience, you really won't progess far. On the other hand, if you think about what you're doing, train specific exercises to help you, work on the worst things you do first until you become good at it, then work on the next worse thing, in no time at all you'll find your skills exploding.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
Some of you may by now be getting into slacklining and bringing it to your surfing experience. If so, awesome. You see, by tightrope walking, tightwire walking, slacklining, slack rope walking, and loose rope walking, you are increasing the speed with which you can sense what is happening to your body, specifically, as it relates to balance.
This is extremely important to the surfer because in order to surf great, you need to be able to sense what is happening with your balance very quickly. The thing is, with surfing, it's not uncommon to have as much as 20 minutes or more between rides. Personally, I love the way Darrick Doerner is training me, the second my ride ends, DD has me paddle out of the path of other surfers as fast as I can by heading to the side of where everyone is surfing. Then, as soon as I am out of the way, I paddle my fastest to catch the next wave. Now granted, the reason this worked for us was because there was not a traditional lineup with lots of surfers waiting their turn, thus, there was no reason not to hustle. As such, one can catch a lot of rides. The most I got, in roughly an hour and a half or so session, was 25 rides. While I would have loved that to be even higher, at least it was roughly a ride every 8 minutes or so. In some places, like Sunset Beach on the North Shore, sometimes, one was lucky to get 3 or 4 rides for the day.
And, since a ride typically doesn't last that long, maybe an average of 8 to 10 seconds, that's not a whole lot of training time. On the other hand, on a slackline or similar rope, if you fall off, you simply step right back on. Thus, you can get a lot of balance training in, compared to surfing. This extreme amount of balance training leads to greater balance awareness, which, yields quicker balance thinking.
Here's how it works. When you're on a tightrope, it takes extreme concentration to not fall. And as such, you learn to eventually sense extremely small shifts in your balance, the more you do it. The sooner you can determine if your balance is shifting out of whack, the easier and smoother it is to maintain balance.
The thing is, what you really need to do is to learn to train yourself to perform the best that you can. If you simply walk a line or surf for that matter, mindlessly, even with years of experience, you really won't progess far. On the other hand, if you think about what you're doing, train specific exercises to help you, work on the worst things you do first until you become good at it, then work on the next worse thing, in no time at all you'll find your skills exploding.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
Friday, December 3, 2010
Mysto Surfing the Wilds
Aloha Tribe,
Now, as you all know, I just love surfing culture and that includes hanging and Talking Story, whether perhaps briefly in the Line-Up or after a session at greater length.
Yet, in the Wilds, I typically surf alone. Mainly, because, generally, at least in the Fall, Winter, and early Spring, there are so few if any surfers around on the frozen beach, let alone in the sea. And so, while I am drawn to sharing and hanging and being part of the group, due to where I surf, and, how I surf, I've grown up a bit of a Mysto Surfer.
A Mysto, by definition, is a Loner. More so, even the way they surf, that is, how, the whys, where, and what, remains sort of mysterious, unusual, and, well, exotic.
The thing that makes me a Mysto, besides so few wanting to be in 20 plus foot icy cold wildly churning Closed Out by all definition swells, is how and why I surf, namely, my Chi Gung.
For most of us, surfing is simply fun. We love the ride. The stoke. The feel of walking or standing on water. Yet, with what I do, there is so much more to it than that, for, I tear such concepts apart, searching into the bowels of them, exploring and adventuring into the darkest secret places, for the Chi.
Chi is a Chinese concept, and it refers to energy. It is the energy that is within us, and, around us, just like the Force in the Star Wars movies. Only, instead of being a movie, it's for-real stuff.
Now, I don't just surf "for," the the fun feeling of Chi, but more so, for what I can do with it in helping and healing others, especially surfers. For, once one learns it, Chi Gung offers ways to learn of the ocean, such as knowing when the swells will come, and where, as well as how big. You'll sense where exactly a wave will break and what it will be like before it happens. You'll be able to sense sea creatures and sea plants of all types, knowing them by their Chi patterns, as well as, in a sense, being able to communicate with them. On a more social scale, you'll be able to heal yourself of injury, and, to heal others, of cuts and sprains, broken bones and torn ligaments as well as of many diseases. So, I see such gifts from the art as ways to give back to The Tribe. Even if, where I surf, for the most part, the Tribe generally isn't there, at least at that time, for I am drawn to the wildest of seas, the coldest of climates, the most whipping rains and icy snows one can experience.
Now sure, I do love the North Shoe. For, what is not to love about Oahu. And, I go to Hawaii whenever I can, but, have yet to move there. I suppose, in the near future, I will make the leap, but for now, it's the Wilds that holds me, draws me, shapes me, teaches me, of her secrets and ways of surfing her wild seas.
When I surf, I'm not out to surf every single wave, frantically dropping down anything and everything coming my way, instead, I wait for the right wave. And, the right wave does not necessarily mean the biggest or steepest or most dangerous, it simply means, the right one, at that time. The one that calls to me.
In Hawaii, on the North Shore, I listened to the beautiful sea turtles. As odd as it sounds, they would show me exactly where the next wave was going to break, the wave they wanted me to catch, and, I'd paddle over to where they broke surface and made eye contact with me, sending their Chi to me, and, I , to them. And it was a magical feeling moment, a form of communication, a mental telepathy between girl and animal, that most would probably think is not even possible, yet, there it was, and, every time, the sea turtles were exactly right, for they had broke surface exactly, precisely, at the best spot on any particular wave prior to it coming. From this, I learned to sense the waves, to feel them, to know what felt right and what feeling right felt like.
Along this line, I learned to call the waves. Out of a flat sea even. Now sure, I could go into the extreme details of how to do this, but it's rather complicated to present them all at once, so, the way it basically works is that you work with the Chi, as I've been saying, and you create a Yang or energetic collection of water and wind, out there. With this intense focus on a single spot, one swirls or spirals the Chi tighter and tighter and tighter, just the same way you do it when you're healing a broken bone. And you keep doing it, packing the Chi into this distant tiny singular spot, until, it is overwhelmed with energy. And then, you can feel it, sense it when it is ready. And, you track it with your eyes and senses, feeling it come closer, until finally, the wave breaks right where you are exactly. I did this exercise with my Surfing Mentor and Watergirl Mentor Darrick Doerner (DD). We were having small 2 foot or so waves, wave after wave after wave, and he was so hoping for the seas to rise up so his student, me, could get a nice ride and some great practice. And he told me he wanted a 6 foot wave to rise right before us, literally touching the tails of our boards, and rise to 6 foot high and to break right on his head!!! His head, of all things. "I want it to break right here, right on my head, right now." And so, sitting on my board, I extended my arm towards the distant sea, pointed my palm, for the center of the palm is one of the 5 major spots on the body for Projecting and Absorbing Chi, and, I called the wave, telling him, it would be here in moments. And, the wave came, and right at the tails of our boards, it rose above us as we sat there, and it lifted our tails and then, it broke, right on DD's head. Literally. As that was happening, I dropped down the face, had a nice little fun ride, and quickly paddled back out as DD always taught me to do, ready to catch the next wave. And there he was, sitting there, my Mentor, looking, not impressed. Now, I was ecstatic, I was so stoked, I expected he'd leap off his board with excitement, and all he did, was look at me and said, "I was hoping for an 8 footer." I loved his understatement, for as a Teacher and Mentor, that is exactly what I hoped he'd do, at least, deep within my heart, because that's the kind of thing you'd get in martial arts training. Once, I trained in Monkey Kung Fu, and my Sifu told me to leap as high as I could to try to grab some berries. I leaped hour after hour, day after day, trying to get the exact bunch he had pointed out for me, and, one day, they were within my grasp. And as I came to the ground with the berries in my hand, expecting he'd be stoked, he simply looked at them like it was nothing, pointed higher in the tree and said, "now, pick that bunch."
For me both Mentors are the perfect kinds of teachers for my style of learning, they push me, drive me, call me to go beyond anything I could imagine, yet, have loving kind hearts and great senses of humor.
My point is, using Chi, I was able to call that wave, to fall directly on DD's head, exactly where we sat, exactly as high as he said, exactly when he asked me to show him how I did that. And it's episodes and adventure like that which make me a Mysto Surfer.
I truly love being part of the Tribe, part of the group, I just love social interaction of every kind, yet, I have grown up on the outside, in the Wilds, not even on the road where one choses the path of left or right, but instead, bushwacking out in the loneliest and wildest of places. Unusual for many people, especially for a girl I'd imagine, but, simply the way it's been for me, due to circumstances.
It was even this way, back in Grand Haven, Michigan, during High School, long after I had made my first board, and surfed those cold waters with such joy. I wanted to surf with all of my heart, like the boys there, but, I was the girl. The girl with the funny looking home-made board, without even the sense to wax it at first, silly kook that I was. Such tales told about earlier in my blog in two sections or so. At any rate, I was a Mysto then, just as I am a Mysto now, not because I want to be, but, because, I am. For I know nothing else.
When I look at a surfboard, I'm not concerned with fancy boards, but with the energy of the board, like who made her, how was she shaped, how are her lines and as such, my mind drifts to how such lines will dance with the ocean. I can be lost for hours, exploring a single board in a surf shop or at a shapers.
It's funny, life. We're often so drawn to that which we aren't or to that which we don't have. I suppose, to some, my style might seem exotic, or at least a bit different, and as such, it's possible there might be some who'd think such things are rather groovy. Yet, for me, to be part of The Tribe, to be in the Inner Circle, that to me is where the magic is. In the smiles and laughter and talk of others, in sharing their joy in watching them surf and surfing with them, and, in those special times, in their touch. Yes, my heart longs for such moments, I admit that. Such simple joys draw me.
Yet, my soul calls me to surf the wilds, to seek out the toughest places on the planet to get to, not for the adrenaline rush, for that is nothing compared to the feeling of Chi, but, for the Chi of it.
At the moment, I am thinking much of Vietnam. Hoping to learn the language at Christmas time by, if I am so blessed, getting one of those Rosetta Stone cd collections of learning Vietnamese. I love languages, especially the three I focus on, namely Hawaiian, Surfish, and Pidgin. But now, I want to add Vietnamese to the list. For I am being called there. To surf, and, to explore and share my Chi. Of course, once there, I'm sure I'll find those places where few go, not because I intentionally seek them out, but because I sense them, feel them calling, and, as a Mysto, I can't resist their siren song.
And, what is a Mysto Surfer? Well, it's simply someone like me, who surfs mostly alone, even when in a group, who surfs for their own reasons. Reasons, that few would understand let alone care about. The Mysto Surfer is a rebel in a world of domesticated surfers, a wild one in a sea of acceptance to the rules and norms, a link back to the times of the Vagabond Feral Surfers of yesteryear, surfing, for deep personal reasons that even if they could be explained, probably, wouldn't be.
Interestingly enough, in my case, surfing as a Mysto comes about not only because for the most part nobody is generally around, especially in the worst of the Winter, but more so, quite frankly, I'm rather shy. Sure, I may write freely at times, but, in person, I'd probably be that girl, over there, absorbed in waxing her surfboard perfectly before each session, seeking, in the case of waxing, not simply to get wax on the board in a hurry, but more so, finding the spirituality and depth as well as historical nostalgia and Tribal memory of applying wax in an almost sacred kind of matter, truly, really caring about what I'm doing. And, that's the way of my surfing too. I explore each aspect of it, even while I'm riding a wave, pushing my boundaries, learning who I am and what I can do, learning from the sea and my board, all, lost purely in the love of the moment.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
Now, as you all know, I just love surfing culture and that includes hanging and Talking Story, whether perhaps briefly in the Line-Up or after a session at greater length.
Yet, in the Wilds, I typically surf alone. Mainly, because, generally, at least in the Fall, Winter, and early Spring, there are so few if any surfers around on the frozen beach, let alone in the sea. And so, while I am drawn to sharing and hanging and being part of the group, due to where I surf, and, how I surf, I've grown up a bit of a Mysto Surfer.
A Mysto, by definition, is a Loner. More so, even the way they surf, that is, how, the whys, where, and what, remains sort of mysterious, unusual, and, well, exotic.
The thing that makes me a Mysto, besides so few wanting to be in 20 plus foot icy cold wildly churning Closed Out by all definition swells, is how and why I surf, namely, my Chi Gung.
For most of us, surfing is simply fun. We love the ride. The stoke. The feel of walking or standing on water. Yet, with what I do, there is so much more to it than that, for, I tear such concepts apart, searching into the bowels of them, exploring and adventuring into the darkest secret places, for the Chi.
Chi is a Chinese concept, and it refers to energy. It is the energy that is within us, and, around us, just like the Force in the Star Wars movies. Only, instead of being a movie, it's for-real stuff.
Now, I don't just surf "for," the the fun feeling of Chi, but more so, for what I can do with it in helping and healing others, especially surfers. For, once one learns it, Chi Gung offers ways to learn of the ocean, such as knowing when the swells will come, and where, as well as how big. You'll sense where exactly a wave will break and what it will be like before it happens. You'll be able to sense sea creatures and sea plants of all types, knowing them by their Chi patterns, as well as, in a sense, being able to communicate with them. On a more social scale, you'll be able to heal yourself of injury, and, to heal others, of cuts and sprains, broken bones and torn ligaments as well as of many diseases. So, I see such gifts from the art as ways to give back to The Tribe. Even if, where I surf, for the most part, the Tribe generally isn't there, at least at that time, for I am drawn to the wildest of seas, the coldest of climates, the most whipping rains and icy snows one can experience.
Now sure, I do love the North Shoe. For, what is not to love about Oahu. And, I go to Hawaii whenever I can, but, have yet to move there. I suppose, in the near future, I will make the leap, but for now, it's the Wilds that holds me, draws me, shapes me, teaches me, of her secrets and ways of surfing her wild seas.
When I surf, I'm not out to surf every single wave, frantically dropping down anything and everything coming my way, instead, I wait for the right wave. And, the right wave does not necessarily mean the biggest or steepest or most dangerous, it simply means, the right one, at that time. The one that calls to me.
In Hawaii, on the North Shore, I listened to the beautiful sea turtles. As odd as it sounds, they would show me exactly where the next wave was going to break, the wave they wanted me to catch, and, I'd paddle over to where they broke surface and made eye contact with me, sending their Chi to me, and, I , to them. And it was a magical feeling moment, a form of communication, a mental telepathy between girl and animal, that most would probably think is not even possible, yet, there it was, and, every time, the sea turtles were exactly right, for they had broke surface exactly, precisely, at the best spot on any particular wave prior to it coming. From this, I learned to sense the waves, to feel them, to know what felt right and what feeling right felt like.
Along this line, I learned to call the waves. Out of a flat sea even. Now sure, I could go into the extreme details of how to do this, but it's rather complicated to present them all at once, so, the way it basically works is that you work with the Chi, as I've been saying, and you create a Yang or energetic collection of water and wind, out there. With this intense focus on a single spot, one swirls or spirals the Chi tighter and tighter and tighter, just the same way you do it when you're healing a broken bone. And you keep doing it, packing the Chi into this distant tiny singular spot, until, it is overwhelmed with energy. And then, you can feel it, sense it when it is ready. And, you track it with your eyes and senses, feeling it come closer, until finally, the wave breaks right where you are exactly. I did this exercise with my Surfing Mentor and Watergirl Mentor Darrick Doerner (DD). We were having small 2 foot or so waves, wave after wave after wave, and he was so hoping for the seas to rise up so his student, me, could get a nice ride and some great practice. And he told me he wanted a 6 foot wave to rise right before us, literally touching the tails of our boards, and rise to 6 foot high and to break right on his head!!! His head, of all things. "I want it to break right here, right on my head, right now." And so, sitting on my board, I extended my arm towards the distant sea, pointed my palm, for the center of the palm is one of the 5 major spots on the body for Projecting and Absorbing Chi, and, I called the wave, telling him, it would be here in moments. And, the wave came, and right at the tails of our boards, it rose above us as we sat there, and it lifted our tails and then, it broke, right on DD's head. Literally. As that was happening, I dropped down the face, had a nice little fun ride, and quickly paddled back out as DD always taught me to do, ready to catch the next wave. And there he was, sitting there, my Mentor, looking, not impressed. Now, I was ecstatic, I was so stoked, I expected he'd leap off his board with excitement, and all he did, was look at me and said, "I was hoping for an 8 footer." I loved his understatement, for as a Teacher and Mentor, that is exactly what I hoped he'd do, at least, deep within my heart, because that's the kind of thing you'd get in martial arts training. Once, I trained in Monkey Kung Fu, and my Sifu told me to leap as high as I could to try to grab some berries. I leaped hour after hour, day after day, trying to get the exact bunch he had pointed out for me, and, one day, they were within my grasp. And as I came to the ground with the berries in my hand, expecting he'd be stoked, he simply looked at them like it was nothing, pointed higher in the tree and said, "now, pick that bunch."
For me both Mentors are the perfect kinds of teachers for my style of learning, they push me, drive me, call me to go beyond anything I could imagine, yet, have loving kind hearts and great senses of humor.
My point is, using Chi, I was able to call that wave, to fall directly on DD's head, exactly where we sat, exactly as high as he said, exactly when he asked me to show him how I did that. And it's episodes and adventure like that which make me a Mysto Surfer.
I truly love being part of the Tribe, part of the group, I just love social interaction of every kind, yet, I have grown up on the outside, in the Wilds, not even on the road where one choses the path of left or right, but instead, bushwacking out in the loneliest and wildest of places. Unusual for many people, especially for a girl I'd imagine, but, simply the way it's been for me, due to circumstances.
It was even this way, back in Grand Haven, Michigan, during High School, long after I had made my first board, and surfed those cold waters with such joy. I wanted to surf with all of my heart, like the boys there, but, I was the girl. The girl with the funny looking home-made board, without even the sense to wax it at first, silly kook that I was. Such tales told about earlier in my blog in two sections or so. At any rate, I was a Mysto then, just as I am a Mysto now, not because I want to be, but, because, I am. For I know nothing else.
When I look at a surfboard, I'm not concerned with fancy boards, but with the energy of the board, like who made her, how was she shaped, how are her lines and as such, my mind drifts to how such lines will dance with the ocean. I can be lost for hours, exploring a single board in a surf shop or at a shapers.
It's funny, life. We're often so drawn to that which we aren't or to that which we don't have. I suppose, to some, my style might seem exotic, or at least a bit different, and as such, it's possible there might be some who'd think such things are rather groovy. Yet, for me, to be part of The Tribe, to be in the Inner Circle, that to me is where the magic is. In the smiles and laughter and talk of others, in sharing their joy in watching them surf and surfing with them, and, in those special times, in their touch. Yes, my heart longs for such moments, I admit that. Such simple joys draw me.
Yet, my soul calls me to surf the wilds, to seek out the toughest places on the planet to get to, not for the adrenaline rush, for that is nothing compared to the feeling of Chi, but, for the Chi of it.
At the moment, I am thinking much of Vietnam. Hoping to learn the language at Christmas time by, if I am so blessed, getting one of those Rosetta Stone cd collections of learning Vietnamese. I love languages, especially the three I focus on, namely Hawaiian, Surfish, and Pidgin. But now, I want to add Vietnamese to the list. For I am being called there. To surf, and, to explore and share my Chi. Of course, once there, I'm sure I'll find those places where few go, not because I intentionally seek them out, but because I sense them, feel them calling, and, as a Mysto, I can't resist their siren song.
And, what is a Mysto Surfer? Well, it's simply someone like me, who surfs mostly alone, even when in a group, who surfs for their own reasons. Reasons, that few would understand let alone care about. The Mysto Surfer is a rebel in a world of domesticated surfers, a wild one in a sea of acceptance to the rules and norms, a link back to the times of the Vagabond Feral Surfers of yesteryear, surfing, for deep personal reasons that even if they could be explained, probably, wouldn't be.
Interestingly enough, in my case, surfing as a Mysto comes about not only because for the most part nobody is generally around, especially in the worst of the Winter, but more so, quite frankly, I'm rather shy. Sure, I may write freely at times, but, in person, I'd probably be that girl, over there, absorbed in waxing her surfboard perfectly before each session, seeking, in the case of waxing, not simply to get wax on the board in a hurry, but more so, finding the spirituality and depth as well as historical nostalgia and Tribal memory of applying wax in an almost sacred kind of matter, truly, really caring about what I'm doing. And, that's the way of my surfing too. I explore each aspect of it, even while I'm riding a wave, pushing my boundaries, learning who I am and what I can do, learning from the sea and my board, all, lost purely in the love of the moment.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
Tuesday, November 30, 2010
Thanksgiving Surfer's Bash 2010 brought to you from The Wilds
Aloha Tribe,
So, Thanksgiving was awesome. The waves in the morning for all those able to surf the traditional pre-Thansgiving Dawn Patrol Appetite Builder were a perfect NW magic surf.
The full days food ideas came favorites from, for the most part, truly awesome surfers from all over the planet.
Out here, in the wilds, the day of feasting began with Mike Doyles recipe for Huevos Mexicanos. In addition, we had Sam Bleakley's Fruit Salad with Honey Spiced Yogurt. With this, was simply a few extra plain bananas, which, many surfers consider the perfect surfer breakfast.
Lunch was non-existent due to an overall feeling of an awesome days mellowness of simply watching the sea.
Much later in the day, in the early evening actually, after rewaxing boards with fresh wax (I love the smell of fresh Bubblegum Wax, what can I say?), stowing gear, and just hanging, it was time to lay out appetizers.
For appetizers, we had a recipe from Sofia Mulanovich for Peruvian Ceviche. We also had Sushi, Sashimi, and Darrick Doerner's favorite - Hawaiian Poke.
Talk Story was a huge part of the day, and following leisurely nibbling of appetizers, it was time for the Main Course.
For this, we had a recipe from Ian Cairns for Garlic and Rosemary Lamb, Ben Dunn's Sausage and Crock Pot Stew, and my own recipe for my style of Baja Fish Tacos!!! Okay, fine, I'm partial to those, after all, I practically live on them almost every day, along with a bit of fruit (mangoes, papayas, pineapple, bananas). With this, we had a recipe for Mango Salsa from Bruce Irons, as well as his version of Fish Tacos (one can never have too many kinds of fish tacos - for a surfer, it's a moral imperative).
As Sides to go with the Main Courses, there was Gerry Lopez's awesome Brown Rice with Teriyaki Sauce (this is probably what I had most of), and Donald Takayama had a recipe for Surfer's Choice Clam Chowder which was to die for.
And, to top it all off, in Memory and Honor of Andy Irons, we made Andy's famous Chocolate Brownie Supreme - which, I must add, was pure magical yumminess.
Naturally, at a surfer party, there HAS to be beer, in fact, some consider the perfect Surfer Thanksgiving as, beer. Yep, beer. Surfer food in a bottle.
Our beers of the day were Longboard Lager, Corona Extra with limes, of course, and Fat Tire. The plan was for endless bottles of Jamaican Red at midnight along with our weekly Midnight Cubano Sandwiches over endless games of Jamaican Dominoes and Cuban styled cigars (Jamaican Dominoes is the version where you gamble with poker chips on each play - much fun and a game I love).
All in all, a perfect day. Everyone around had tons of food, much Talk Story, lots of laughter and joking, super waves, and just pure holiday magic. I hope that all of you had as much fun for your own Thanksgiving, and, no matter where you are in the world, remember, as surfers, we all belong to The Tribe, and, for us, every day there's surf is a day and reason for thanksgiving, so, I hope that all of you could celebrate in true surfer style, Especially, with the beer, of course.
Special Thanks to Nava Young for her most excellent surfer's cookbook Surf Food: The Ultimate Surfers Cookbook. Ride on chica!!!
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
So, Thanksgiving was awesome. The waves in the morning for all those able to surf the traditional pre-Thansgiving Dawn Patrol Appetite Builder were a perfect NW magic surf.
The full days food ideas came favorites from, for the most part, truly awesome surfers from all over the planet.
Out here, in the wilds, the day of feasting began with Mike Doyles recipe for Huevos Mexicanos. In addition, we had Sam Bleakley's Fruit Salad with Honey Spiced Yogurt. With this, was simply a few extra plain bananas, which, many surfers consider the perfect surfer breakfast.
Lunch was non-existent due to an overall feeling of an awesome days mellowness of simply watching the sea.
Much later in the day, in the early evening actually, after rewaxing boards with fresh wax (I love the smell of fresh Bubblegum Wax, what can I say?), stowing gear, and just hanging, it was time to lay out appetizers.
For appetizers, we had a recipe from Sofia Mulanovich for Peruvian Ceviche. We also had Sushi, Sashimi, and Darrick Doerner's favorite - Hawaiian Poke.
Talk Story was a huge part of the day, and following leisurely nibbling of appetizers, it was time for the Main Course.
For this, we had a recipe from Ian Cairns for Garlic and Rosemary Lamb, Ben Dunn's Sausage and Crock Pot Stew, and my own recipe for my style of Baja Fish Tacos!!! Okay, fine, I'm partial to those, after all, I practically live on them almost every day, along with a bit of fruit (mangoes, papayas, pineapple, bananas). With this, we had a recipe for Mango Salsa from Bruce Irons, as well as his version of Fish Tacos (one can never have too many kinds of fish tacos - for a surfer, it's a moral imperative).
As Sides to go with the Main Courses, there was Gerry Lopez's awesome Brown Rice with Teriyaki Sauce (this is probably what I had most of), and Donald Takayama had a recipe for Surfer's Choice Clam Chowder which was to die for.
And, to top it all off, in Memory and Honor of Andy Irons, we made Andy's famous Chocolate Brownie Supreme - which, I must add, was pure magical yumminess.
Naturally, at a surfer party, there HAS to be beer, in fact, some consider the perfect Surfer Thanksgiving as, beer. Yep, beer. Surfer food in a bottle.
Our beers of the day were Longboard Lager, Corona Extra with limes, of course, and Fat Tire. The plan was for endless bottles of Jamaican Red at midnight along with our weekly Midnight Cubano Sandwiches over endless games of Jamaican Dominoes and Cuban styled cigars (Jamaican Dominoes is the version where you gamble with poker chips on each play - much fun and a game I love).
All in all, a perfect day. Everyone around had tons of food, much Talk Story, lots of laughter and joking, super waves, and just pure holiday magic. I hope that all of you had as much fun for your own Thanksgiving, and, no matter where you are in the world, remember, as surfers, we all belong to The Tribe, and, for us, every day there's surf is a day and reason for thanksgiving, so, I hope that all of you could celebrate in true surfer style, Especially, with the beer, of course.
Special Thanks to Nava Young for her most excellent surfer's cookbook Surf Food: The Ultimate Surfers Cookbook. Ride on chica!!!
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
Sunday, November 14, 2010
Surfer's Thanksgiving Coming Soon
Aloha Tribe,
Thanksgiving, here in the U.S. is coming in a few weeks, and, this year, I'm doing a Surfer's Thanksgiving. My whole meal will be planned around foods that famous surfers from all over the world have loved. I'll be using surfing food instead of the "traditional," Thanksgiving grinds.
I'll keep you posted on my menu plans as things get closer.
That being said, my surfing and Watergirl Mentor, famous big wave surfer Darrick Doerner (DD) has shared his traditions with me of sweet potatoes, raw fish - I will prepare sushi, sashimi, Baja styled ceviche (my favorite) and poke to honor DD, gravy, and apple pie, all of his favorites, so, they will all be part of my Thanksgiving Meal, along with the rest I am planning.
Naturally, one of the traditions for Thanksgiving, for surfers that is, is to surf Thanksgiving morning. For a surfer, it's a moral imperative. So, no matter who you are, no matter where you are in the world, for this Thanksgiving Day, even if it's not a tradition you normally practice, why not head to the beach for some waves and just give thanks anyways. Thanks for all the great surf you've had and all the great surf you hope to have. And, simply offer that thanks to whoevers.
Personally, I love the idea of making a ton of food, bringing it to my local break, and, just setting up a campfire with tons of hot food for any surfer to feel free to dig in, Talk Story for a spell, then, hit the swells again with a fully tummy. Then again, living in the wilds like I do, that might mean I'm sharing my food simply with the local wildlife, but, hey, whatevers. When it comes down to it, it's the thought, I guess. I love sharing with the Tribe, to me, that's a big part of what surfing is all about, each of us watching each others back at all times, sharing what we have, hanging and talking story, surfing together, and, just being.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
Thanksgiving, here in the U.S. is coming in a few weeks, and, this year, I'm doing a Surfer's Thanksgiving. My whole meal will be planned around foods that famous surfers from all over the world have loved. I'll be using surfing food instead of the "traditional," Thanksgiving grinds.
I'll keep you posted on my menu plans as things get closer.
That being said, my surfing and Watergirl Mentor, famous big wave surfer Darrick Doerner (DD) has shared his traditions with me of sweet potatoes, raw fish - I will prepare sushi, sashimi, Baja styled ceviche (my favorite) and poke to honor DD, gravy, and apple pie, all of his favorites, so, they will all be part of my Thanksgiving Meal, along with the rest I am planning.
Naturally, one of the traditions for Thanksgiving, for surfers that is, is to surf Thanksgiving morning. For a surfer, it's a moral imperative. So, no matter who you are, no matter where you are in the world, for this Thanksgiving Day, even if it's not a tradition you normally practice, why not head to the beach for some waves and just give thanks anyways. Thanks for all the great surf you've had and all the great surf you hope to have. And, simply offer that thanks to whoevers.
Personally, I love the idea of making a ton of food, bringing it to my local break, and, just setting up a campfire with tons of hot food for any surfer to feel free to dig in, Talk Story for a spell, then, hit the swells again with a fully tummy. Then again, living in the wilds like I do, that might mean I'm sharing my food simply with the local wildlife, but, hey, whatevers. When it comes down to it, it's the thought, I guess. I love sharing with the Tribe, to me, that's a big part of what surfing is all about, each of us watching each others back at all times, sharing what we have, hanging and talking story, surfing together, and, just being.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
Thursday, November 11, 2010
Gibbon Slackrack for Balance Practice
Aloha Tribe,
I got an early Birthday present last night. It's the Gibbon Slackrack for slacklining indoors. It's a way totally awesome portable steel rack that holds a slackline. I do not know it's exact weight, but I'd gues maybe 70 pounds or so. You can tension the line as tightly or loosely as you would like and it can hold any type of webbing or rope, though the way it is made, it is specifically made for Gibbon slackline products, of course. To use something else, like your own webbing, or a rope, you simply tie it on rather than use the ratchet system for a Gibbon line. The rack is 10 foot long and about a foot high. The base is gray and the end supports are a sort of magenta, it's rather pretty.
I have it set up in my Surfing Room. I really love it. It's great practice for slacklining, and the skills you learn can certainly apply to surfing. Regarding surfing, on a slackline, you are developing all of your balance muscles, so, having something like this lets you practice in any kind of weather and at any time since it's just in your home. It can break down into two 5 foot sections (I'm simply guessing but maybe 35 pounds each perhaps) for taking to a park or wherevers, it easily fits inside of both my Subaru Outback Sport and my new model turbo VW Bug, thus I can bring it on surfing trips for those times when I'm not camping and doing outdoor slacklining but instead, staying in a nice hotel and want to slack in my hotel room.
If you want to simply practice slacklining, this product can do anything you'd like. You can walk, bounce, stand motionless meditating, or even do slackline yoga on it. Or my favorite, of course, slackline chi gung. In fact, here it is about 1:30 AM and I'm still practicing on my slackrack. The balance possibilities are endless. For example, regarding surfing, you can lay on it and paddle, it's high enough, then, sit, as though you were in the line up, then, paddle again with wave catching speed, pop to your feet, and, practice your surfing moves. Sure, it's not a board, it's a slackline, thus, it doesn't have the width a board had, yet, surfboards have stringers, and, knowing your stringer perfectly is what surfing is about. I've found that slacklining has dramatically improved my surfing by cutting off years of training, and, likewise, my surfing has radically helped my slacklining.
It will be interesting to spend a lot of time on the slackrack, like I do on my NOHO Surf Balance Trainer when I do my Silver Surfer Training Camp sessions. With my longboard on my NOHO, I spend as much time on it as I can during such training camps, and, likewise, I plan to do the same thing on this slackrack, simply hanging on it for hours at a time, ever increasing that time limit. I want to make it so comfortable that it is home to me, just like my longboard has become due to my Silver Surf Camp training I do so often. With my surfboard, I want to know every millimeter of it, and, I want the same for my slackrack. I want to know what it can do, how I can push the limits, where I can go with it and what mystery awaits me, what hidden treasures it holds within.
This is a great product for keeping your slacklining skills honed to perfection, especially also, if you are using it to keep your surfing in perfect shape.
I highly suggest one studies Chi Gung and bring it to the slackline and, your surfboard for it will open doors of exploration in ways you've never imagined, offering new moves, increased balance, and greater freedom in truly expressing yourself physically.
Since the slackrack is so adjustable, you can, of course, tension it up like a traditional slackline, that is to say, the line is tensioned "straight," and then it sags when you walk on it. Or, you can use cavellettis and tie your line off, if you like, thus making your slackrack more like a tightrope line. Or, if you prefer, which is way fun I must add, you can simply tie your webbing or, as I prefer, manilla rope, loose, and thus have a loose rope or soft rope system, which is especially interesting if you're interested in Chinese Soft Rope Penetration Arts. Thus, if Chinese Single Bamboo Pole Drifting is in the future for you, this is a great way to practice for that too. Drifting, by the way, rocks, and it makes SUP (Stand Up Paddle) which is so all the rage in the States now, seem rather calm and easy and, well, sorry SUPer's but, dull. There's just so much more you can do on a Bamboo Pole that offers such a greater challenge for those who love such things. Shooting the rapids, instead of in a kayak like the local boys do, try it on a bamboo pole, you'll not only turn heads but also hearts yearning for adventure.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
I got an early Birthday present last night. It's the Gibbon Slackrack for slacklining indoors. It's a way totally awesome portable steel rack that holds a slackline. I do not know it's exact weight, but I'd gues maybe 70 pounds or so. You can tension the line as tightly or loosely as you would like and it can hold any type of webbing or rope, though the way it is made, it is specifically made for Gibbon slackline products, of course. To use something else, like your own webbing, or a rope, you simply tie it on rather than use the ratchet system for a Gibbon line. The rack is 10 foot long and about a foot high. The base is gray and the end supports are a sort of magenta, it's rather pretty.
I have it set up in my Surfing Room. I really love it. It's great practice for slacklining, and the skills you learn can certainly apply to surfing. Regarding surfing, on a slackline, you are developing all of your balance muscles, so, having something like this lets you practice in any kind of weather and at any time since it's just in your home. It can break down into two 5 foot sections (I'm simply guessing but maybe 35 pounds each perhaps) for taking to a park or wherevers, it easily fits inside of both my Subaru Outback Sport and my new model turbo VW Bug, thus I can bring it on surfing trips for those times when I'm not camping and doing outdoor slacklining but instead, staying in a nice hotel and want to slack in my hotel room.
If you want to simply practice slacklining, this product can do anything you'd like. You can walk, bounce, stand motionless meditating, or even do slackline yoga on it. Or my favorite, of course, slackline chi gung. In fact, here it is about 1:30 AM and I'm still practicing on my slackrack. The balance possibilities are endless. For example, regarding surfing, you can lay on it and paddle, it's high enough, then, sit, as though you were in the line up, then, paddle again with wave catching speed, pop to your feet, and, practice your surfing moves. Sure, it's not a board, it's a slackline, thus, it doesn't have the width a board had, yet, surfboards have stringers, and, knowing your stringer perfectly is what surfing is about. I've found that slacklining has dramatically improved my surfing by cutting off years of training, and, likewise, my surfing has radically helped my slacklining.
It will be interesting to spend a lot of time on the slackrack, like I do on my NOHO Surf Balance Trainer when I do my Silver Surfer Training Camp sessions. With my longboard on my NOHO, I spend as much time on it as I can during such training camps, and, likewise, I plan to do the same thing on this slackrack, simply hanging on it for hours at a time, ever increasing that time limit. I want to make it so comfortable that it is home to me, just like my longboard has become due to my Silver Surf Camp training I do so often. With my surfboard, I want to know every millimeter of it, and, I want the same for my slackrack. I want to know what it can do, how I can push the limits, where I can go with it and what mystery awaits me, what hidden treasures it holds within.
This is a great product for keeping your slacklining skills honed to perfection, especially also, if you are using it to keep your surfing in perfect shape.
I highly suggest one studies Chi Gung and bring it to the slackline and, your surfboard for it will open doors of exploration in ways you've never imagined, offering new moves, increased balance, and greater freedom in truly expressing yourself physically.
Since the slackrack is so adjustable, you can, of course, tension it up like a traditional slackline, that is to say, the line is tensioned "straight," and then it sags when you walk on it. Or, you can use cavellettis and tie your line off, if you like, thus making your slackrack more like a tightrope line. Or, if you prefer, which is way fun I must add, you can simply tie your webbing or, as I prefer, manilla rope, loose, and thus have a loose rope or soft rope system, which is especially interesting if you're interested in Chinese Soft Rope Penetration Arts. Thus, if Chinese Single Bamboo Pole Drifting is in the future for you, this is a great way to practice for that too. Drifting, by the way, rocks, and it makes SUP (Stand Up Paddle) which is so all the rage in the States now, seem rather calm and easy and, well, sorry SUPer's but, dull. There's just so much more you can do on a Bamboo Pole that offers such a greater challenge for those who love such things. Shooting the rapids, instead of in a kayak like the local boys do, try it on a bamboo pole, you'll not only turn heads but also hearts yearning for adventure.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
Sunday, November 7, 2010
The Perfect Longboard Car: VW Bug vs. Subaru Outback
Aloha Tribe,
So, I imagine that a lot of you dream of finding the perfect car for your surfing sufaris. And naturally, there are many cool vehicles that fit the bill, after all, we all need and love something different.
For me, I have, as I have mentioned, two cars. One is a new model VW Bug, bright orange, orange hubcaps, black and orange leather interior and steering wheel, turbo model. She's cute!!! I even have a safari rack I mounted on her roof above the sunroof. It's sort of like a metal cage that sits up there, capable of holding anything and everything.
With my VW Bug, I can get my 9 foot longboard (plus a second one if I wanted too) inside of the car. I simply take the headrests off the passenger seat and then fold the passenger seat down and, I also take the headrests off the back bench seat and fold it down too. Then, I simply slide the board in through the trunk, resting the nose of the board on the dashboard of the passenger side, and the tail of the board at the end base of the trunk. Granted, with this setup, I can be the only one in the car, but, that's cool, my friends have cars anyways, and besides, when you're heading out for Dawn Patrol in the dark of night, it's fun to have a caravan of vehicles filled with surfer brahs all following each other for a day of surfing.
There is room in the car, by the way, for pretty much as much camping gear (plus slacklines and slackropes as well as my NOHO Surf Balance Trainer), as I'll need for even extended trips of several months. As it turns out, I don't need the safari rack on top of the car, but, well, it makes the car look like a true Baja Bug, and, I so love that image.
My other car is a Subaru Outback Sport. She's bright fire engine red. With this car, I also can get my 9 foot longboard (easily with a second 9 foot longboard if I wanted) literally inside of the car, basically doing exactly what I did with the Bug. I simply fold the front and back passenger side bucket seats down, do not have to remove the headrests, and, still have room for a passenger behind the drivers seat, plus, enough gear for several months of camping also including enough slacklines, slackropes and such to share with anybody who wants to try, and my NOHO Surf Balance Trainer.
So, when there are times that I might want to have your boards safely in your car, either of these vehicles way totally can do this. On the other hand, I always loved the look of my longboard on top of my car, fin forward, adventure to the wind. It presents sort of a cool girl-of-action kind of look that appeals to my spirit and sense of adventure and taste. Besides, in the case of the VW Bug, it's kind of fun to have a surfboard on the roof on top of my safari rack, people who see it seem to love the look.
Oh, while my VW Bug is a turbo model and thus goes faster, my Subaru Outback Sport has All-Wheel Drive thus it can go anywhere, snow mud, ice, sleet, rain, whatevers. And, being a cold weather surfer, surfing in the worst the Pacific Northwest can throw at a girl, such a feature is rather awesome to know that no matter what, I can always make it to the beach regardless of driving conditions.
Either car would be perfect for anybody. It's then simply a matter of style. For me, I love them both. In warm weather, like the Summer, it's my VW Bug for sure, for what could be cooler than that, a bug with a few longboard surfboards and an elephant gun and perhaps a thruster all strapped on top, using, by the way, Baja straps, those are those extra wide, extra thick, extra strong ones with huge strong steel buckles, that, if you''re a Baja girl, you just HAVE to have. And, when the Winter storms rage and the seas rise to near 50 foot like they did a week ago, how are you doing to see me get to my surfing break out in the wilds, well, in my Subaru Outback, but of course, for she WILL get me there for those epic waves when it really counts.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
So, I imagine that a lot of you dream of finding the perfect car for your surfing sufaris. And naturally, there are many cool vehicles that fit the bill, after all, we all need and love something different.
For me, I have, as I have mentioned, two cars. One is a new model VW Bug, bright orange, orange hubcaps, black and orange leather interior and steering wheel, turbo model. She's cute!!! I even have a safari rack I mounted on her roof above the sunroof. It's sort of like a metal cage that sits up there, capable of holding anything and everything.
With my VW Bug, I can get my 9 foot longboard (plus a second one if I wanted too) inside of the car. I simply take the headrests off the passenger seat and then fold the passenger seat down and, I also take the headrests off the back bench seat and fold it down too. Then, I simply slide the board in through the trunk, resting the nose of the board on the dashboard of the passenger side, and the tail of the board at the end base of the trunk. Granted, with this setup, I can be the only one in the car, but, that's cool, my friends have cars anyways, and besides, when you're heading out for Dawn Patrol in the dark of night, it's fun to have a caravan of vehicles filled with surfer brahs all following each other for a day of surfing.
There is room in the car, by the way, for pretty much as much camping gear (plus slacklines and slackropes as well as my NOHO Surf Balance Trainer), as I'll need for even extended trips of several months. As it turns out, I don't need the safari rack on top of the car, but, well, it makes the car look like a true Baja Bug, and, I so love that image.
My other car is a Subaru Outback Sport. She's bright fire engine red. With this car, I also can get my 9 foot longboard (easily with a second 9 foot longboard if I wanted) literally inside of the car, basically doing exactly what I did with the Bug. I simply fold the front and back passenger side bucket seats down, do not have to remove the headrests, and, still have room for a passenger behind the drivers seat, plus, enough gear for several months of camping also including enough slacklines, slackropes and such to share with anybody who wants to try, and my NOHO Surf Balance Trainer.
So, when there are times that I might want to have your boards safely in your car, either of these vehicles way totally can do this. On the other hand, I always loved the look of my longboard on top of my car, fin forward, adventure to the wind. It presents sort of a cool girl-of-action kind of look that appeals to my spirit and sense of adventure and taste. Besides, in the case of the VW Bug, it's kind of fun to have a surfboard on the roof on top of my safari rack, people who see it seem to love the look.
Oh, while my VW Bug is a turbo model and thus goes faster, my Subaru Outback Sport has All-Wheel Drive thus it can go anywhere, snow mud, ice, sleet, rain, whatevers. And, being a cold weather surfer, surfing in the worst the Pacific Northwest can throw at a girl, such a feature is rather awesome to know that no matter what, I can always make it to the beach regardless of driving conditions.
Either car would be perfect for anybody. It's then simply a matter of style. For me, I love them both. In warm weather, like the Summer, it's my VW Bug for sure, for what could be cooler than that, a bug with a few longboard surfboards and an elephant gun and perhaps a thruster all strapped on top, using, by the way, Baja straps, those are those extra wide, extra thick, extra strong ones with huge strong steel buckles, that, if you''re a Baja girl, you just HAVE to have. And, when the Winter storms rage and the seas rise to near 50 foot like they did a week ago, how are you doing to see me get to my surfing break out in the wilds, well, in my Subaru Outback, but of course, for she WILL get me there for those epic waves when it really counts.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
Saturday, November 6, 2010
Ultra-Primitive Slackline Setup
Aloha Tribe,
As a longboard surfer, I've taken to slacklining to improve my surfing. And, while my path to both actually intertwines, beginning with surfing as a little girl, the progressing to Monkey Style Kung Fu where one learns to move, stretch, fight, and even sleep on a Monkey Bed - which was basically just a rope slung between two trees with the purpose of creating perfect balance, then, about 10 years ago being given my first webbing slackline from my carpenter for my home - tied in the Ultra-Primitive Style, to today, living the life of a Vagabond Feral Soul Surfer and Vagabond Feral Soul Slackliner.
Such a life calls for following both the waves, and, the wind. For both elements become your home, harmoniously blending as the Shamanic quest for balance. You'll find, as you dare this quest, that the first door that opens for you is the mysterious and magical door to your subconscious.
To live the life of a Vagabond Feral Soul Rope Dancer or Slackliner, one simply, lives to Rope Dance or slack. And, just as a Soul Surfer, who travels Feral as a Vagabond carries one board and one board only, so goes such a slackliner or rope dancer. All you carry is but a single slackline or a single piece of rope, rolled into a carefully tied bundle such as a Lap Bundle or perhaps, if you like a Backpack Bundle, and tossed into a canvas satchel slung crossbody, low over one hip along with a simple canvas backpack. The search becomes a quest seeking more than the mere perfect walk, more even than a sense of physical balance, the quest, becomes mixed in with Chi Gung, and thus, the search for internal and external exploration of yourself and the world around you based on energy.
Chi Gung, the ancient 4000 year old Chinese study of internal and external energy within, around, and beyond the body, holds the true secret to this art and lifestyle of a Ultra-Primitive Rope Dancer. The art of Soft Rope Penetration Arts or Rope Dancing aka Soft Roping is also several thousand years old, holding untold secrets, mysteries, and treasures.
One's kit is simple. Of course, it's environmentally based, thus the natural fiber travel kit, but, the key is to travel as lightly as possible. A canvas satchel works perfectly for your slackline or rope dancing gear. And, as for living, you'll explore traveling and surviving as an ultralight backpacker.
Having a few simple ways to make money helps. Whatever your gig happens to be. For me, my skills lay with the Short Cons, namely, the Shell Game, Five Card Draw Poker - as a Mechanic, and Pickpocketing (all of which can be done theatrically if you are so inclined to not wander the outlaw trail).
As a Vagabond Feral Soul Rope Dancer, one is free to travel the world. For there are always places to practice your art as you search deeper and deeper for yourself and your limits physically, mentally, and spiritually.
Some will probably live the streets as a Grifter or Street Performer, honing the art of grifting to peak perfection, while, perhaps, keeping things sort of moderately legal. Others may explore the darker sides of the mysteries of life, depending, of course, upon your personal morals. And, for those who leave the cities and head into the wilds, you'll learn to live by whit and whim in the forests, jungles, mountains, plains, deserts, and beaches, especially the beaches if you also happen to be a Vagabond Feral Soul Surfer who also slacks.
Wandering as a slacker, you'll keep your eyes out for places to hang your line. And, while initially seemingly all similar, you'll find that the more you experience, the more depth you'll notice to your walking. Does it feel different to walk a line between two pine trees? Or two oaks? What about one strung between bamboo? Or boulders high in the mountains, how are they different than rocky ledges along the coast and over the sea? How does the humidity of Ghana effect your line? Or the dryness of a desert? Does height make a difference in how your line feels and thus, how the walk feels differently to you? Can you feel the pulse of a crowded city harmoniously dancing your line in ways that the wilds do not?
Each of these, of course, has different answers. And, if you're just starting out, you'll probably not notice much if any difference. Most likely, you'll probably start on webbing, tubular webbing specifically. And, even with some experience, you'll probably focus simply on line height, line length, or even how fast you can walk the line. But, as a Vagabond Feral Rope Dancer, you're after something deeper, much much much deeper. This is where the study of Chi Gung comes into play and carries you along a path that leads to the true lifestyle of the Soul Slacker/Soft Roper. You see, the more you walk the line, the more sensitive you become to your body and to the way the line moves and feels. With experience, you might find the shift from a nylon or poly type strap of webbing to a totally natural length of rope, more than likely manilla at first. Manilla, unlike nylon has living chi about it, it has secrets and stories to tell and share, and its chi is pure. With time, you might explore the lushess softness of a jute rope or the pure magic of the greatest of all, Italian Hemp (currently illegal in the U.S. thus opening a door for those of a smuggling mind and bent). And, it is at this point that you will begin to realize that there are physical changes that you can sense. At first, they'll register tactilly but with more experience, you'll learn to explore the depth of all of your senses, perfecting them, one at a time, to levels currently undreamed of by you. There literally are no limits within this art.
The advantages of a hemp, jute, or manilla rope to a nylon slackline is that instead of separating your from nature, you'll find that your rope, having been living material and thus still dancing strongly with it's own unique individual chi, offers a way to blend as one with all about you. The trippy part of this is that it is done all naturally, and, even if you use hemp, only rather slightly on the outlaw trail.
Walking a line, be it rope or webbing, opens your mind to your imagination, which, is the first step along this marvelous path. For in order to feel it and more so use it later, first, one must imagine it.
For those who do not know, Chi or Qi is the force that is within everything, all that is visible and all that is invisible as well as all that is animate and all inanimate things. Basically, it is in, around and beyond all. And the exciting part of the story is that you can, using Soft Roping and Slacklining skills, tap into this huge mass of everchanging, constantly morphing energy for shaping your life and the world around you. In a way, you could say that the New Age that was anticipated so strongly in the '60's is now here hanging on a rope, slung loosely as a Loose Rope, slackly as a Slackline or Slackrope , or tightly as a Tightrope, between two objects. There are few Loose or Soft Rope Specialists out here by the way, for it is still mostly an unknown art, lost to the antiquites of ancient China. In fact, the Ultra-Primitive Slackline Setup is based specifically the Loose Rope Dancer. You can use rope or webbing.
In a nutshell, tie a Double Bowline with Jack's Variation on the anchor end of the rope or webbing. This part is tied around a tree or boulder. Then, about 90 % of the way down the webbing or rope, tie a Butterfly Knot which is not to be confused with an Artillery Man's Knot or a Mantrap Knot, nor especially, a False Butterfly Knot. For the Butterfly Knot, by the way, simply turn both loops the same way, essentially counterclockwise. For the False Butterfly knot, which you must not tie, the first loop goes counterclockwise and the second loop goes clockwise, and, while the two knots look similiar, they are not, the False Butterfly Knot is not as strong as the Butterfly Knot. Continue with the rest of the rope or webbing running it around your second working tree or boulder, and, as soon as you go around it, tie a second Butterfly Knot. Now, take the leftover webbing or rope and run it first up through the Butterfly Knot you just tied, then, down through your first Butterfly Knot, then back to the Butterfly Knot near the tree and go down through it again, this time trying to get your webbing or rope beneath your first pass through this Butterfly Knot. Then, take the remaining line and run it up through your midline Butterfly Knot, and run it under your first pass through this knot. Now, draw the system tight by pulling on the remaining tail of the webbing or rope. If you want this set up as a Ultra-Primitive Slackline or Slackrope setup, the rope is pulled taught. Or, if you prefer to simply use an Ultra-Primitive Loose Rope or Looseline setup, then simply tie a second Double Bowline with Jack's Variation around the working tree instead of using the Butterfly Knots, and, just let the webbing or rope hang loosely like a letter U. When you walk on a Loose Rope, it will look more or less like a letter V, with you as the low point.
In either case, Ultra-Primitive Slackline/Slackrope or Ultra-Primitive Loose Rope/Looseline, you only use a single piece of rope or webbing, without the need for a second webbing like you need in a Primitive System, and, without the carabiners that a Primitive System also requires.
This Ultra-Primitive method is new, hot, unique, ultralight, and the wave of the future. I feel rather excited to have come up with these knots and this idea of hanging a rope or webbing slack or loose. It sure works for me.
The romance of the line awaits you, the call of the wilds and cities sings to your webbing and rope, heed the call. For you will find balance poetry, art, style, spiritual growth, mental and physical mastery all honed to perfection if you dare.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
As a longboard surfer, I've taken to slacklining to improve my surfing. And, while my path to both actually intertwines, beginning with surfing as a little girl, the progressing to Monkey Style Kung Fu where one learns to move, stretch, fight, and even sleep on a Monkey Bed - which was basically just a rope slung between two trees with the purpose of creating perfect balance, then, about 10 years ago being given my first webbing slackline from my carpenter for my home - tied in the Ultra-Primitive Style, to today, living the life of a Vagabond Feral Soul Surfer and Vagabond Feral Soul Slackliner.
Such a life calls for following both the waves, and, the wind. For both elements become your home, harmoniously blending as the Shamanic quest for balance. You'll find, as you dare this quest, that the first door that opens for you is the mysterious and magical door to your subconscious.
To live the life of a Vagabond Feral Soul Rope Dancer or Slackliner, one simply, lives to Rope Dance or slack. And, just as a Soul Surfer, who travels Feral as a Vagabond carries one board and one board only, so goes such a slackliner or rope dancer. All you carry is but a single slackline or a single piece of rope, rolled into a carefully tied bundle such as a Lap Bundle or perhaps, if you like a Backpack Bundle, and tossed into a canvas satchel slung crossbody, low over one hip along with a simple canvas backpack. The search becomes a quest seeking more than the mere perfect walk, more even than a sense of physical balance, the quest, becomes mixed in with Chi Gung, and thus, the search for internal and external exploration of yourself and the world around you based on energy.
Chi Gung, the ancient 4000 year old Chinese study of internal and external energy within, around, and beyond the body, holds the true secret to this art and lifestyle of a Ultra-Primitive Rope Dancer. The art of Soft Rope Penetration Arts or Rope Dancing aka Soft Roping is also several thousand years old, holding untold secrets, mysteries, and treasures.
One's kit is simple. Of course, it's environmentally based, thus the natural fiber travel kit, but, the key is to travel as lightly as possible. A canvas satchel works perfectly for your slackline or rope dancing gear. And, as for living, you'll explore traveling and surviving as an ultralight backpacker.
Having a few simple ways to make money helps. Whatever your gig happens to be. For me, my skills lay with the Short Cons, namely, the Shell Game, Five Card Draw Poker - as a Mechanic, and Pickpocketing (all of which can be done theatrically if you are so inclined to not wander the outlaw trail).
As a Vagabond Feral Soul Rope Dancer, one is free to travel the world. For there are always places to practice your art as you search deeper and deeper for yourself and your limits physically, mentally, and spiritually.
Some will probably live the streets as a Grifter or Street Performer, honing the art of grifting to peak perfection, while, perhaps, keeping things sort of moderately legal. Others may explore the darker sides of the mysteries of life, depending, of course, upon your personal morals. And, for those who leave the cities and head into the wilds, you'll learn to live by whit and whim in the forests, jungles, mountains, plains, deserts, and beaches, especially the beaches if you also happen to be a Vagabond Feral Soul Surfer who also slacks.
Wandering as a slacker, you'll keep your eyes out for places to hang your line. And, while initially seemingly all similar, you'll find that the more you experience, the more depth you'll notice to your walking. Does it feel different to walk a line between two pine trees? Or two oaks? What about one strung between bamboo? Or boulders high in the mountains, how are they different than rocky ledges along the coast and over the sea? How does the humidity of Ghana effect your line? Or the dryness of a desert? Does height make a difference in how your line feels and thus, how the walk feels differently to you? Can you feel the pulse of a crowded city harmoniously dancing your line in ways that the wilds do not?
Each of these, of course, has different answers. And, if you're just starting out, you'll probably not notice much if any difference. Most likely, you'll probably start on webbing, tubular webbing specifically. And, even with some experience, you'll probably focus simply on line height, line length, or even how fast you can walk the line. But, as a Vagabond Feral Rope Dancer, you're after something deeper, much much much deeper. This is where the study of Chi Gung comes into play and carries you along a path that leads to the true lifestyle of the Soul Slacker/Soft Roper. You see, the more you walk the line, the more sensitive you become to your body and to the way the line moves and feels. With experience, you might find the shift from a nylon or poly type strap of webbing to a totally natural length of rope, more than likely manilla at first. Manilla, unlike nylon has living chi about it, it has secrets and stories to tell and share, and its chi is pure. With time, you might explore the lushess softness of a jute rope or the pure magic of the greatest of all, Italian Hemp (currently illegal in the U.S. thus opening a door for those of a smuggling mind and bent). And, it is at this point that you will begin to realize that there are physical changes that you can sense. At first, they'll register tactilly but with more experience, you'll learn to explore the depth of all of your senses, perfecting them, one at a time, to levels currently undreamed of by you. There literally are no limits within this art.
The advantages of a hemp, jute, or manilla rope to a nylon slackline is that instead of separating your from nature, you'll find that your rope, having been living material and thus still dancing strongly with it's own unique individual chi, offers a way to blend as one with all about you. The trippy part of this is that it is done all naturally, and, even if you use hemp, only rather slightly on the outlaw trail.
Walking a line, be it rope or webbing, opens your mind to your imagination, which, is the first step along this marvelous path. For in order to feel it and more so use it later, first, one must imagine it.
For those who do not know, Chi or Qi is the force that is within everything, all that is visible and all that is invisible as well as all that is animate and all inanimate things. Basically, it is in, around and beyond all. And the exciting part of the story is that you can, using Soft Roping and Slacklining skills, tap into this huge mass of everchanging, constantly morphing energy for shaping your life and the world around you. In a way, you could say that the New Age that was anticipated so strongly in the '60's is now here hanging on a rope, slung loosely as a Loose Rope, slackly as a Slackline or Slackrope , or tightly as a Tightrope, between two objects. There are few Loose or Soft Rope Specialists out here by the way, for it is still mostly an unknown art, lost to the antiquites of ancient China. In fact, the Ultra-Primitive Slackline Setup is based specifically the Loose Rope Dancer. You can use rope or webbing.
In a nutshell, tie a Double Bowline with Jack's Variation on the anchor end of the rope or webbing. This part is tied around a tree or boulder. Then, about 90 % of the way down the webbing or rope, tie a Butterfly Knot which is not to be confused with an Artillery Man's Knot or a Mantrap Knot, nor especially, a False Butterfly Knot. For the Butterfly Knot, by the way, simply turn both loops the same way, essentially counterclockwise. For the False Butterfly knot, which you must not tie, the first loop goes counterclockwise and the second loop goes clockwise, and, while the two knots look similiar, they are not, the False Butterfly Knot is not as strong as the Butterfly Knot. Continue with the rest of the rope or webbing running it around your second working tree or boulder, and, as soon as you go around it, tie a second Butterfly Knot. Now, take the leftover webbing or rope and run it first up through the Butterfly Knot you just tied, then, down through your first Butterfly Knot, then back to the Butterfly Knot near the tree and go down through it again, this time trying to get your webbing or rope beneath your first pass through this Butterfly Knot. Then, take the remaining line and run it up through your midline Butterfly Knot, and run it under your first pass through this knot. Now, draw the system tight by pulling on the remaining tail of the webbing or rope. If you want this set up as a Ultra-Primitive Slackline or Slackrope setup, the rope is pulled taught. Or, if you prefer to simply use an Ultra-Primitive Loose Rope or Looseline setup, then simply tie a second Double Bowline with Jack's Variation around the working tree instead of using the Butterfly Knots, and, just let the webbing or rope hang loosely like a letter U. When you walk on a Loose Rope, it will look more or less like a letter V, with you as the low point.
In either case, Ultra-Primitive Slackline/Slackrope or Ultra-Primitive Loose Rope/Looseline, you only use a single piece of rope or webbing, without the need for a second webbing like you need in a Primitive System, and, without the carabiners that a Primitive System also requires.
This Ultra-Primitive method is new, hot, unique, ultralight, and the wave of the future. I feel rather excited to have come up with these knots and this idea of hanging a rope or webbing slack or loose. It sure works for me.
The romance of the line awaits you, the call of the wilds and cities sings to your webbing and rope, heed the call. For you will find balance poetry, art, style, spiritual growth, mental and physical mastery all honed to perfection if you dare.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
Friday, November 5, 2010
Books for Slackline, Tightrope Walking, Tightwire Walking, Rope Dancing, Tree Yoga, Soft Rope Penetration Arts, Highwire Walking, and all interested in Walking, Balancing, Dancing and Aerial Chi Gung and Slackline Yoga on something Tight, Loose, Solid, or Slack
Aloha Tribe,
Here are 20 books or so that I have and study constantly in my study of tying knots, creating tensioned wires and ropes, and all manners of ways to hook up lowlines, highlines, slacklines, loose ropes, and tightropes. I really love all of them and I highly recommend them all.
1. Ninjutsu: The Art of Invisibility by Donn F. Draeger - this book does not have much on "tightrope" but it does have a drawing of someone walking on a bamboo stalk lashed between two trees. One way to do this, is to have the bamboo literally tied to the trees themselves, creating a solid walking experience, like a tightrope. Another way is to suspend the bamboo pole by ropes at each end, thus making a very loose swinging platform.
2. Man On Wire by Philippe Petit - this is Philippe's book on his walk between the twin towers of the World Trade Center in New York back in the early '70's. It is fascinating how he studied the scene, almost like a burglar would he said, planned everything, then, had to sneak it all in for his illegal highwire crossing.
3. 72 Consummate Arts of the Shaolin Temple by Wu Jiaming - this is a super martial arts book with tons of training ideas from an incredible amount of different Shaolin martial arts. There are several sections (perhaps half a dozen or so if you open your creativity a bit to see possibilities) that are very applicable to soft rope walking.
4. Funambule by Elgin Michel - this book is only in French - I very much like it. If you don't read French, you'll have to translate this, of course. It is a book about Philippe Petit and his highwire walk at the Eifel Tower in Paris. It covers his training, the planning, and the execution. Both this book and his book Man on Wire are truly necessary for any highwire artist.
5. On The High Wire by Philippe Petit - in this book, Philippe talks about his training and ideas on walking on the highwire. This is a truly phenomenal book that I read constantly. It is not so much a book about a particular highwire walking project like his other two books, instead, it is more like essays on his thoughts about highwire walking.
6. Knots and Ropes for Climbers by Duane Raleigh - a great book for those interested in knots. While it does not have tons of knots, it has most of the ones necessary for climbing, and all of the ones necessary for slacklining with easy to understand directions and drawings.
7. Fragments of the Artwork by Jean Genet - this book has a series of essays on numerous art type ideas, one of which deals with tightwire walking and, for this essay alone, the pure magic of it, the inspiration it offers, is worth it.
8. TM 5-725 Rigging : Department of the Army Technical Manual - a straightforward military type manual that offers most ideas of what you'd need for slacklining knots or soft rope knots and rigging.
9. Field Guide to Accompany High Angle Rescue Techniques by Tom Vines - has a wonderful chapter on highlining.
10. Handbook of Rigging by Joseph A. MacDonald - a textbook type book, huge, with tons to learn on rigging.
11. Arborist Equipment: A Guide to the tools and equipment of tree maintenance and removal
by Donald F. Blair - a great book for learning a bit about knots and tree climbing, thus useful for the slackliner.
12. Technical Rescue Riggers Guide by Rick Lipke - has a highlining chapter
13. Rope Levels 1 and 2 by Jeff Matthews - also has a highlining chapter
14. Engineering Practical Rope Rescue Systems by Michael G. Brown - this too has a highlining chapter
15. High Angle Rescue Techniques by Tom Vines - has a highlining chapter.
16. The Ashley Book of Knots by Clifford Ashley - I'd imagine this book has every knot there is in it. This book is the knot tying bible.
17. On Rope by Smith and Padgett - a great book with a wonderful chapter on highlining as well as one on circus rigging.
18. Rigging Handbook by Jerry Klink - straightforward rigging book
19. Wire Rope Users - if you want to know about wire, for wirewalking, you'll learn all you need to know about wire here.
20. Construction Safety Association of Ontario Rigging Manual - this book teaches tons on rigging.
21. Walk the Line by Scott Balcom - the only slackline book devoted totally just to slacklining out there and thus, a must have.
I so hope that some of you get these books, in fact, I'd love at least a few of you to get all of them, then, it would be so fun to get together in some local pub over a game of chess (but of course) while simulatneously sharing ideas and techniques over a fine glass of Merlot in front of a soft gentle fire. I love sharing, and, learning. And, just hanging, you know Brahs.
Buy the books, study them, learn some knots and rigging, then, get to the trees and buildings and such and slack and walk and balance and play.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
Here are 20 books or so that I have and study constantly in my study of tying knots, creating tensioned wires and ropes, and all manners of ways to hook up lowlines, highlines, slacklines, loose ropes, and tightropes. I really love all of them and I highly recommend them all.
1. Ninjutsu: The Art of Invisibility by Donn F. Draeger - this book does not have much on "tightrope" but it does have a drawing of someone walking on a bamboo stalk lashed between two trees. One way to do this, is to have the bamboo literally tied to the trees themselves, creating a solid walking experience, like a tightrope. Another way is to suspend the bamboo pole by ropes at each end, thus making a very loose swinging platform.
2. Man On Wire by Philippe Petit - this is Philippe's book on his walk between the twin towers of the World Trade Center in New York back in the early '70's. It is fascinating how he studied the scene, almost like a burglar would he said, planned everything, then, had to sneak it all in for his illegal highwire crossing.
3. 72 Consummate Arts of the Shaolin Temple by Wu Jiaming - this is a super martial arts book with tons of training ideas from an incredible amount of different Shaolin martial arts. There are several sections (perhaps half a dozen or so if you open your creativity a bit to see possibilities) that are very applicable to soft rope walking.
4. Funambule by Elgin Michel - this book is only in French - I very much like it. If you don't read French, you'll have to translate this, of course. It is a book about Philippe Petit and his highwire walk at the Eifel Tower in Paris. It covers his training, the planning, and the execution. Both this book and his book Man on Wire are truly necessary for any highwire artist.
5. On The High Wire by Philippe Petit - in this book, Philippe talks about his training and ideas on walking on the highwire. This is a truly phenomenal book that I read constantly. It is not so much a book about a particular highwire walking project like his other two books, instead, it is more like essays on his thoughts about highwire walking.
6. Knots and Ropes for Climbers by Duane Raleigh - a great book for those interested in knots. While it does not have tons of knots, it has most of the ones necessary for climbing, and all of the ones necessary for slacklining with easy to understand directions and drawings.
7. Fragments of the Artwork by Jean Genet - this book has a series of essays on numerous art type ideas, one of which deals with tightwire walking and, for this essay alone, the pure magic of it, the inspiration it offers, is worth it.
8. TM 5-725 Rigging : Department of the Army Technical Manual - a straightforward military type manual that offers most ideas of what you'd need for slacklining knots or soft rope knots and rigging.
9. Field Guide to Accompany High Angle Rescue Techniques by Tom Vines - has a wonderful chapter on highlining.
10. Handbook of Rigging by Joseph A. MacDonald - a textbook type book, huge, with tons to learn on rigging.
11. Arborist Equipment: A Guide to the tools and equipment of tree maintenance and removal
by Donald F. Blair - a great book for learning a bit about knots and tree climbing, thus useful for the slackliner.
12. Technical Rescue Riggers Guide by Rick Lipke - has a highlining chapter
13. Rope Levels 1 and 2 by Jeff Matthews - also has a highlining chapter
14. Engineering Practical Rope Rescue Systems by Michael G. Brown - this too has a highlining chapter
15. High Angle Rescue Techniques by Tom Vines - has a highlining chapter.
16. The Ashley Book of Knots by Clifford Ashley - I'd imagine this book has every knot there is in it. This book is the knot tying bible.
17. On Rope by Smith and Padgett - a great book with a wonderful chapter on highlining as well as one on circus rigging.
18. Rigging Handbook by Jerry Klink - straightforward rigging book
19. Wire Rope Users - if you want to know about wire, for wirewalking, you'll learn all you need to know about wire here.
20. Construction Safety Association of Ontario Rigging Manual - this book teaches tons on rigging.
21. Walk the Line by Scott Balcom - the only slackline book devoted totally just to slacklining out there and thus, a must have.
I so hope that some of you get these books, in fact, I'd love at least a few of you to get all of them, then, it would be so fun to get together in some local pub over a game of chess (but of course) while simulatneously sharing ideas and techniques over a fine glass of Merlot in front of a soft gentle fire. I love sharing, and, learning. And, just hanging, you know Brahs.
Buy the books, study them, learn some knots and rigging, then, get to the trees and buildings and such and slack and walk and balance and play.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
Thursday, November 4, 2010
Surfboard Balance for the Vagabond Feral Soul Surfer expressing Chi Gung
Aloha Tribe,
Why balance works, or more specifically, how, is based on relaxation. Mentally, physically, and spiritually. The calmer you are, the more sensitive you are, the more aware you are, the greater your balance. This is so whether one surfs, walks a tightrope or slackline, or a softrope either loose or slack, or any other kind of balance work. Paradoxically, to reach such a state, requires, effort, lots and lots of specific training and more so, a way totally familiarization of your particular medium, be it surfboard, skateboard, snowboard, wire, webbing, or rope, rock, rooftops (for the catburgler types and urban equilibrists), limb, wall, rock ledge, street sign or light post, chain or vehicle (yep, urban car and truck balancing rocks - is moderately outlaw yet in the heart of art - rural vehicle balancing is fun too - tractors, cranes, bulldozers, wagons, etc.
I like to think of my longboard as having a personality and a soul. It is, to me, my friend. For, we spend a lot of time together, and, I learn from it.
I don't so much think of myself as riding my surfboard, but more so, as a Soul Surfer I see my expression upon my board as a way for the board itself to speak its own song.
Boards, I believe, are not something to be controlled, dominated, nor caged, but instead, to truly allow yourself the art of the board, requires finding a way to win the board over, in a sense, to help it help you, in your surfing quest.
To perform well with my longboard, to truly surf, is not, so much a reflection of me, but instead, shows the board in it's own sense of perfection.
For, it is not the board that wobbles nor carves too deeply on a hard bottom turn, nor is it the board who pearls or simply drops you off, instead, the board, is perfection in and of itself, thus, the lack of ability is within my own muscles. As such, to do the board the honor that it truly deserves requires total surrender to training for perfection.
When surfing well, it is the joy of the board coming forth, showing its thanks for your hard work.
As a Soul Surfer, we are artists, surfing alone, even when surrounded by countless others. The true Soul Surfer surfs not for awards nor fame nor money, but simply for the pure love of it, more so, at an even deeper level, not for oneself, but for the opportunity for the surfboard to do that which it was shaped to do.
This level of surfing demands not merely surfing well but more so, to surf with excellence and total precision in order for the board to reveal her secrets of flowing freely over the sea.
To surf well, truly freely, requires risk, just as with the bullfighter or the highwire artist. For, with each of these, living in-the-moment, fully, totally, with pure passion, one finds ones soul in the purity of your medium.
Surfing freely, unharnessed, as a true Soul Surfer, one finds that the world beyond ceases to exist. This allows pure movement of your body, for the love of movement itself, as an expression of what your board offers. The more you can lose yourself to your very act of surfing, the more you can focus only on that which is, the more beautiful, soft, and graceful your surfing will be, the more, you'll be truly one with your board, and more so, one with the sea.
This level of surfing requires the origins of the Feral Surfer, the lone surfer wandering the globe, as a Vagabond Feral Surfer, with but a single board and a single duffel bag for your kit. For, it is within this aloneness that you can find the stillness to notice that which leads your quest. This level of solitude can be seen in many of our surfing heroes and the true legends of our art and sport. People brave enough to surf the wilds, alone, simply, to surf. It is within such moments, even if that stretches to touch a lifetime, that the true Soul Surfer can find balance. And, it is at this point, that the journey truly merely begins, for from here on, one then begins to surf not as an outward expression of movement nor individuality, but, from within yourself. And, this great within is unfathomable, yielding treasures most know not to even seek. This is what something like Chi Gung brings to surfing, this ability to find surfing inside of yourself. At this level, you have taken the first step. It is here, within this first step, that you find the ability to truly explore the moves of your longboard, shortboard, elephant gun, or whatevers. Past quivering muscles lies stillness. Past stillness lies internal movement. Yang leading to Yin transforming to Yang in an endless cycle of surfing harmony. And, as for your board, well, it simply always is. Nothing more. Nothing less. Rather Taoist actually. And in that lies great truth and the mysteries of Vagabond Feral Soul Surfer.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
Why balance works, or more specifically, how, is based on relaxation. Mentally, physically, and spiritually. The calmer you are, the more sensitive you are, the more aware you are, the greater your balance. This is so whether one surfs, walks a tightrope or slackline, or a softrope either loose or slack, or any other kind of balance work. Paradoxically, to reach such a state, requires, effort, lots and lots of specific training and more so, a way totally familiarization of your particular medium, be it surfboard, skateboard, snowboard, wire, webbing, or rope, rock, rooftops (for the catburgler types and urban equilibrists), limb, wall, rock ledge, street sign or light post, chain or vehicle (yep, urban car and truck balancing rocks - is moderately outlaw yet in the heart of art - rural vehicle balancing is fun too - tractors, cranes, bulldozers, wagons, etc.
I like to think of my longboard as having a personality and a soul. It is, to me, my friend. For, we spend a lot of time together, and, I learn from it.
I don't so much think of myself as riding my surfboard, but more so, as a Soul Surfer I see my expression upon my board as a way for the board itself to speak its own song.
Boards, I believe, are not something to be controlled, dominated, nor caged, but instead, to truly allow yourself the art of the board, requires finding a way to win the board over, in a sense, to help it help you, in your surfing quest.
To perform well with my longboard, to truly surf, is not, so much a reflection of me, but instead, shows the board in it's own sense of perfection.
For, it is not the board that wobbles nor carves too deeply on a hard bottom turn, nor is it the board who pearls or simply drops you off, instead, the board, is perfection in and of itself, thus, the lack of ability is within my own muscles. As such, to do the board the honor that it truly deserves requires total surrender to training for perfection.
When surfing well, it is the joy of the board coming forth, showing its thanks for your hard work.
As a Soul Surfer, we are artists, surfing alone, even when surrounded by countless others. The true Soul Surfer surfs not for awards nor fame nor money, but simply for the pure love of it, more so, at an even deeper level, not for oneself, but for the opportunity for the surfboard to do that which it was shaped to do.
This level of surfing demands not merely surfing well but more so, to surf with excellence and total precision in order for the board to reveal her secrets of flowing freely over the sea.
To surf well, truly freely, requires risk, just as with the bullfighter or the highwire artist. For, with each of these, living in-the-moment, fully, totally, with pure passion, one finds ones soul in the purity of your medium.
Surfing freely, unharnessed, as a true Soul Surfer, one finds that the world beyond ceases to exist. This allows pure movement of your body, for the love of movement itself, as an expression of what your board offers. The more you can lose yourself to your very act of surfing, the more you can focus only on that which is, the more beautiful, soft, and graceful your surfing will be, the more, you'll be truly one with your board, and more so, one with the sea.
This level of surfing requires the origins of the Feral Surfer, the lone surfer wandering the globe, as a Vagabond Feral Surfer, with but a single board and a single duffel bag for your kit. For, it is within this aloneness that you can find the stillness to notice that which leads your quest. This level of solitude can be seen in many of our surfing heroes and the true legends of our art and sport. People brave enough to surf the wilds, alone, simply, to surf. It is within such moments, even if that stretches to touch a lifetime, that the true Soul Surfer can find balance. And, it is at this point, that the journey truly merely begins, for from here on, one then begins to surf not as an outward expression of movement nor individuality, but, from within yourself. And, this great within is unfathomable, yielding treasures most know not to even seek. This is what something like Chi Gung brings to surfing, this ability to find surfing inside of yourself. At this level, you have taken the first step. It is here, within this first step, that you find the ability to truly explore the moves of your longboard, shortboard, elephant gun, or whatevers. Past quivering muscles lies stillness. Past stillness lies internal movement. Yang leading to Yin transforming to Yang in an endless cycle of surfing harmony. And, as for your board, well, it simply always is. Nothing more. Nothing less. Rather Taoist actually. And in that lies great truth and the mysteries of Vagabond Feral Soul Surfer.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
Monday, November 1, 2010
Chess, Surfing, and the Flowing Feeling of Passion
Aloha Tribe,
Hmm, well, some of you may have read recently that I'm sitting here with a torn meniscus in my left knee, my back foot, of course, being goofy foot, and as such, I'm not out on the waves on my beloved longboard. I'd love to Talk Story on some tropical shore, sipping local brews while spinning yarns of how I raced down the face of that damned 47 foot monster, flying like liquid mercury over the wrenching white water, carving lines of beauty at breakneck speed over the rippling swirls of death, yet, alas, I slipped off a stupid porch - a wooden deck, a moss covered wooden deck of doom, after stopping at my neighbors to pee, of all things. Darn I should have simply gone at the beach like a surfer girl should.
But, such an injury has given my chess game a chance to grow a bit these last few dark, cold, rainy, sleepless nights, windows flung wide to the open air, allowing the night's embrace to chill my bones, yet, at the same time, to draw comfort and light from the lone fire stirring in my cast iron wood burning stove and the single candle burning amidst an iron candle holder atop my 250 year old London pub goat's cart wheel dining table. Naturally, as I see it, chess, vodka, and long lonely nights all tremendously aid surfing skill.
But first, the dishes.
Okay, back from the dishes, now, later in the dark. Chess and surfing. Let's see...
Chess, to me, is all about art, and, feel. Sure, I'm a tactile girl, I love feeling things, and, the feeling of moving, physical sensations in fact drive me wild so, since all movement effects me so, all sense of touch so drives me, even the seemingly mundane task of holding beautiful wood chess pieces, especially those of my beloved Russian chess set, feeling their curves, their weight, the balance that each piece has as it shifts in my soft grasp, brings thoughts of how I ride my longboard. With unbridled passion.
Chess offers lessons in foresight, logic, planning, taking risks, seeing and playing art, study, friendship and hanging with a brah, special language, tribal rules, history, legends, heroes, all like surfing does. Surfing can simply be hopping on a board and racing to the shore, just as chess can simply be pushing wood and crushing your opponent. But, there's so much more to both sports and arts. For lost in mundane mediocrity, one ceases to dance, and it is in the dance where the art of chess and surfing rise.
In studying to be a Soul Surfer, that is to say, a girl who simply surfs for the pure physical pleasure and love of it, one can explore the depths as shallowly or as deeply as one might care to delve. The same, for chess. In surfing, there's so much to learn, from weather and waves and beaches to board shapes, lines, fin placement, who's who, surf science, Surf Language, moves, techniques, strategies, sharing with friends, and a gazillion other things. The same, as I mentioned above, chess.
I find that the study of one, truly enhances the other. As odd as it sounds, I love to catch a wave, and, in it, find a new exploration on the chess board regarding an opening or perhaps an ending, even during a typical 8 to 10 second ride, my mind races with thoughts driving in at about 1/25th of a second or so, thus allowing me ample time for not only feeling my board, but also mental exploration of my ride, or, as the case can be at times, chess applications. My surfing allows me to see chess moves in the waves, in the way my body moves and flows, in the feeling of the sea upon my muscles, the smell of the air, the sound of the breeze, the warmth of the sun on even the coldest of days. And, as I surf, I find myself imagining how I can express a given ride as a series of chess moves, whether it is in Openings, or Endings, or my favorite, the beautiful and artistc Middle Game. Likewise, on the chess board, I see new ways to Carve or Acid Drop, alternative methods of Bottom Turns or Pearling Control such as my Submarine surfing move into new and exciting disciplines. Oh how I love the Submarine, by the way , for it's such a radical move that. There's nothing like it anywhere by anyone!!! And, just as with great chess, sometimes, things come by seeming accident, yet, in reality, are actually the result of fully, totally, 100% passionately living in-the-moment with total focus.
A perfect chess en passant is, to me, like tickling white water and bouncing off it into a beautiful Cutback. The feeling is the same.
To me, I don't see either sport or art as inclusive upon itself, but instead, find expression for both in all about me, as, in each other, in expressions of seeming total disparity.
For some, perhaps many, to run as fast as you can with your board and leap into the sea in a diving swoop of unbridled spontaneous joy, is a beautiful path. But, not typically mine. I'm more the type who loves to study the sea first. To feel her, to know her movements and expressions as I sit upon an overhanging cliff or beneath a shading tree. I watch, and observe, and learn. Just, as with chess. I love to watch other surfers ride, feeling total stoke for them as though it were me out there riding. Just, as I love to sit and watch a hearty game of chess at the local club, imagining the feel of the pieces as I watch others move them, seeing the moves in my mind before they are made before me. The love and joy of others, whether in chess or surfing, fills my heart with just overwhelming excitement for those dancing in the moment of their passion, for I truly feel bodaciously stoked for them. You see, in the movements of others, using Chi Gung, I can literally feel what the other feels, I can feel the weight of the chess pawn or knight, or, the biting edge of a rail in a perfect power Bottom Turn. Chi Gung offers a way to literally feel such physical expressions of others, in your own body, and thus, to learn not merely from watching but more so, from feeling what others do. In the case of chess, which is a mental game, it is the Nei Dan of Chi Gung which allows you to feel, sense, and embrace the very thoughts of those you watch even before they touch their pieces, in other words, you know, really know what they will do, for their thoughts are upon that very thing. And, in surfing, it is the chi or qi of Nei Dan which allows you to sense and feel what a particular move feels like literally of a surfer whether he or she is actually surfing in front of you or even in a movie. Time, in such situations, does not exist. All that matters, is the flowing feeling of passion dancing with art.
Chess teaches you to think and plan, and, if you bring your chess to the level of art, to feel, for you can literally sense what your opponent will do, not merely logically nor by force, but instead, by something so much more powerful, be feeling or reading your opponents thoughts. It's a chi gung thing, nei dan as I just mentioned a moment ago, specifically. I first noticed it in fencing when I was training for the women's epee in fencing for the Olympics as I tried for Samoa. According to concepts of chi, "where the mind goes, the chi flows." In other words, first, you have to think it. These thoughts, when focused, can be sensed by those with proper training. Now, as for surfing, if you can think, you can be instantanously spontaneous in your creative approaches to any given wave. You can use your brain to pick where to be to catch a wave, what to do as you make the drop so you don't wipe out, and, how to ride, even when surprises pop out at you like a water burst at Makaha on Oahu, if you're not ready, you'll shoot 20 feet into the air.
Sure, some think of chess as slow detailed, calculating mental effort, and, it can be. Yet, some love the game of Blitz Chess where you play lightning fast, simply responding as quickly as you can to what your opponent does.
The thing is, with enough training, or, using an art like the 4000 year old Chinese discipline of chi gung, you can learn to think incredibly quickly, thus, everything appears in extreme slow motion. For most people, such events seem to come randomly in their lives, if at all, typically, during some extreme accident or trauma or emergency. Yet, once one learns how, through mental training, one can constantly be in such a state of awareness. A super example from a fun movie is in the first Spiderman movie a few years ago when the main character, Peter, noticed a fly buzzing in extreme slow motion just as he was about to get into a fight scene in the film. Such stuff is not the mere fantasy of movies but nor simply the realm of those in desperate situations, but, can be with you always.
So, by developing your brain, for example by playing chess, you can indeed improve your surfing in ways you may not have anticipated. Interestingly enough, your surfing will enhance your chess and your chess will enhance your surfing, so, on those dark nights, such as tonight, at 2:12 AM when the world around me sleeps in the wilds of the woods outside my door, I sit here with my favorite Russian styled Chess set and, my other set, the one that's gone to the North Pole, it's a magnetic set and equally fun. I love chess sets and chess pieces, just as I love surfboards and surf fins. Of course, my true heart belongs to surfing, chess is simply a fun passion for me, yet, it has always been in my life since I was a little girl, in fact, interestingly enough, I just thought about it and I actually learned chess the same year I made my first surfboard. Funny, that. Between the two, my life followed chess in that I lived in the middle of the country after leaving the Great Lakes and my beloved surfing there. But now, I am near the sea and surfing is my life, as it has been since a year ago last Summer when I almost died. I got my board for Christmas last year thanks to Santa and a very very kind Robert August who personally shaped it for me, and began my surfing in the late Winter, learning the wilds of the Pacific Northwest then heading out to the North Shore. Oahu rocks, I truly admit that. And, what could be a cuter town that Haleiwa? Soon, when life is right, I shall live there. Had circumstances been different this Fall, my original plan, some of you may have read, was to surf there from September through Christmas, for about 4 months or so. Life got in the way, I lost a pet, now I have a torn meniscus, but, my heart still soars the waves.
Speaking of tearing my meniscus, according to the Doctor, a true specialist in the field, and one of the Pacific Northwests top guys, said such an injury would probably never heal, yet, at least after 6 weeks the pain should be gone he said. I tore it last Monday. Tonight, I just got through with about 3 hours of tightwire walking and balance training on my indoor tightwire. Too many bears and mountain lions hunting outside in the swamp on a dark night like this to train outside, perhaps when the moon is fuller. My knee, using chi gung for healing, feels GREAT!!! I feel solid, flexible, confident, stoked, agile, and strong tonight. Tomorrow should be interesting, that is to say, in a few hours when it gets light. I'll hit my loose rope for some Soft Rope training, shooting for 6 hours today. I should be able to make that since I just got in 3 hours okay.
I so hope that more surfers all over the world get into Chi Gung (Qigong) as a form of healing them of surfing injuries, it's truly an incredible discipline. In the meantime, my goal is to help as many hurt surfers as I can. And, along the way, perhaps get a good chess game in now and again. :)
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
Hmm, well, some of you may have read recently that I'm sitting here with a torn meniscus in my left knee, my back foot, of course, being goofy foot, and as such, I'm not out on the waves on my beloved longboard. I'd love to Talk Story on some tropical shore, sipping local brews while spinning yarns of how I raced down the face of that damned 47 foot monster, flying like liquid mercury over the wrenching white water, carving lines of beauty at breakneck speed over the rippling swirls of death, yet, alas, I slipped off a stupid porch - a wooden deck, a moss covered wooden deck of doom, after stopping at my neighbors to pee, of all things. Darn I should have simply gone at the beach like a surfer girl should.
But, such an injury has given my chess game a chance to grow a bit these last few dark, cold, rainy, sleepless nights, windows flung wide to the open air, allowing the night's embrace to chill my bones, yet, at the same time, to draw comfort and light from the lone fire stirring in my cast iron wood burning stove and the single candle burning amidst an iron candle holder atop my 250 year old London pub goat's cart wheel dining table. Naturally, as I see it, chess, vodka, and long lonely nights all tremendously aid surfing skill.
But first, the dishes.
Okay, back from the dishes, now, later in the dark. Chess and surfing. Let's see...
Chess, to me, is all about art, and, feel. Sure, I'm a tactile girl, I love feeling things, and, the feeling of moving, physical sensations in fact drive me wild so, since all movement effects me so, all sense of touch so drives me, even the seemingly mundane task of holding beautiful wood chess pieces, especially those of my beloved Russian chess set, feeling their curves, their weight, the balance that each piece has as it shifts in my soft grasp, brings thoughts of how I ride my longboard. With unbridled passion.
Chess offers lessons in foresight, logic, planning, taking risks, seeing and playing art, study, friendship and hanging with a brah, special language, tribal rules, history, legends, heroes, all like surfing does. Surfing can simply be hopping on a board and racing to the shore, just as chess can simply be pushing wood and crushing your opponent. But, there's so much more to both sports and arts. For lost in mundane mediocrity, one ceases to dance, and it is in the dance where the art of chess and surfing rise.
In studying to be a Soul Surfer, that is to say, a girl who simply surfs for the pure physical pleasure and love of it, one can explore the depths as shallowly or as deeply as one might care to delve. The same, for chess. In surfing, there's so much to learn, from weather and waves and beaches to board shapes, lines, fin placement, who's who, surf science, Surf Language, moves, techniques, strategies, sharing with friends, and a gazillion other things. The same, as I mentioned above, chess.
I find that the study of one, truly enhances the other. As odd as it sounds, I love to catch a wave, and, in it, find a new exploration on the chess board regarding an opening or perhaps an ending, even during a typical 8 to 10 second ride, my mind races with thoughts driving in at about 1/25th of a second or so, thus allowing me ample time for not only feeling my board, but also mental exploration of my ride, or, as the case can be at times, chess applications. My surfing allows me to see chess moves in the waves, in the way my body moves and flows, in the feeling of the sea upon my muscles, the smell of the air, the sound of the breeze, the warmth of the sun on even the coldest of days. And, as I surf, I find myself imagining how I can express a given ride as a series of chess moves, whether it is in Openings, or Endings, or my favorite, the beautiful and artistc Middle Game. Likewise, on the chess board, I see new ways to Carve or Acid Drop, alternative methods of Bottom Turns or Pearling Control such as my Submarine surfing move into new and exciting disciplines. Oh how I love the Submarine, by the way , for it's such a radical move that. There's nothing like it anywhere by anyone!!! And, just as with great chess, sometimes, things come by seeming accident, yet, in reality, are actually the result of fully, totally, 100% passionately living in-the-moment with total focus.
A perfect chess en passant is, to me, like tickling white water and bouncing off it into a beautiful Cutback. The feeling is the same.
To me, I don't see either sport or art as inclusive upon itself, but instead, find expression for both in all about me, as, in each other, in expressions of seeming total disparity.
For some, perhaps many, to run as fast as you can with your board and leap into the sea in a diving swoop of unbridled spontaneous joy, is a beautiful path. But, not typically mine. I'm more the type who loves to study the sea first. To feel her, to know her movements and expressions as I sit upon an overhanging cliff or beneath a shading tree. I watch, and observe, and learn. Just, as with chess. I love to watch other surfers ride, feeling total stoke for them as though it were me out there riding. Just, as I love to sit and watch a hearty game of chess at the local club, imagining the feel of the pieces as I watch others move them, seeing the moves in my mind before they are made before me. The love and joy of others, whether in chess or surfing, fills my heart with just overwhelming excitement for those dancing in the moment of their passion, for I truly feel bodaciously stoked for them. You see, in the movements of others, using Chi Gung, I can literally feel what the other feels, I can feel the weight of the chess pawn or knight, or, the biting edge of a rail in a perfect power Bottom Turn. Chi Gung offers a way to literally feel such physical expressions of others, in your own body, and thus, to learn not merely from watching but more so, from feeling what others do. In the case of chess, which is a mental game, it is the Nei Dan of Chi Gung which allows you to feel, sense, and embrace the very thoughts of those you watch even before they touch their pieces, in other words, you know, really know what they will do, for their thoughts are upon that very thing. And, in surfing, it is the chi or qi of Nei Dan which allows you to sense and feel what a particular move feels like literally of a surfer whether he or she is actually surfing in front of you or even in a movie. Time, in such situations, does not exist. All that matters, is the flowing feeling of passion dancing with art.
Chess teaches you to think and plan, and, if you bring your chess to the level of art, to feel, for you can literally sense what your opponent will do, not merely logically nor by force, but instead, by something so much more powerful, be feeling or reading your opponents thoughts. It's a chi gung thing, nei dan as I just mentioned a moment ago, specifically. I first noticed it in fencing when I was training for the women's epee in fencing for the Olympics as I tried for Samoa. According to concepts of chi, "where the mind goes, the chi flows." In other words, first, you have to think it. These thoughts, when focused, can be sensed by those with proper training. Now, as for surfing, if you can think, you can be instantanously spontaneous in your creative approaches to any given wave. You can use your brain to pick where to be to catch a wave, what to do as you make the drop so you don't wipe out, and, how to ride, even when surprises pop out at you like a water burst at Makaha on Oahu, if you're not ready, you'll shoot 20 feet into the air.
Sure, some think of chess as slow detailed, calculating mental effort, and, it can be. Yet, some love the game of Blitz Chess where you play lightning fast, simply responding as quickly as you can to what your opponent does.
The thing is, with enough training, or, using an art like the 4000 year old Chinese discipline of chi gung, you can learn to think incredibly quickly, thus, everything appears in extreme slow motion. For most people, such events seem to come randomly in their lives, if at all, typically, during some extreme accident or trauma or emergency. Yet, once one learns how, through mental training, one can constantly be in such a state of awareness. A super example from a fun movie is in the first Spiderman movie a few years ago when the main character, Peter, noticed a fly buzzing in extreme slow motion just as he was about to get into a fight scene in the film. Such stuff is not the mere fantasy of movies but nor simply the realm of those in desperate situations, but, can be with you always.
So, by developing your brain, for example by playing chess, you can indeed improve your surfing in ways you may not have anticipated. Interestingly enough, your surfing will enhance your chess and your chess will enhance your surfing, so, on those dark nights, such as tonight, at 2:12 AM when the world around me sleeps in the wilds of the woods outside my door, I sit here with my favorite Russian styled Chess set and, my other set, the one that's gone to the North Pole, it's a magnetic set and equally fun. I love chess sets and chess pieces, just as I love surfboards and surf fins. Of course, my true heart belongs to surfing, chess is simply a fun passion for me, yet, it has always been in my life since I was a little girl, in fact, interestingly enough, I just thought about it and I actually learned chess the same year I made my first surfboard. Funny, that. Between the two, my life followed chess in that I lived in the middle of the country after leaving the Great Lakes and my beloved surfing there. But now, I am near the sea and surfing is my life, as it has been since a year ago last Summer when I almost died. I got my board for Christmas last year thanks to Santa and a very very kind Robert August who personally shaped it for me, and began my surfing in the late Winter, learning the wilds of the Pacific Northwest then heading out to the North Shore. Oahu rocks, I truly admit that. And, what could be a cuter town that Haleiwa? Soon, when life is right, I shall live there. Had circumstances been different this Fall, my original plan, some of you may have read, was to surf there from September through Christmas, for about 4 months or so. Life got in the way, I lost a pet, now I have a torn meniscus, but, my heart still soars the waves.
Speaking of tearing my meniscus, according to the Doctor, a true specialist in the field, and one of the Pacific Northwests top guys, said such an injury would probably never heal, yet, at least after 6 weeks the pain should be gone he said. I tore it last Monday. Tonight, I just got through with about 3 hours of tightwire walking and balance training on my indoor tightwire. Too many bears and mountain lions hunting outside in the swamp on a dark night like this to train outside, perhaps when the moon is fuller. My knee, using chi gung for healing, feels GREAT!!! I feel solid, flexible, confident, stoked, agile, and strong tonight. Tomorrow should be interesting, that is to say, in a few hours when it gets light. I'll hit my loose rope for some Soft Rope training, shooting for 6 hours today. I should be able to make that since I just got in 3 hours okay.
I so hope that more surfers all over the world get into Chi Gung (Qigong) as a form of healing them of surfing injuries, it's truly an incredible discipline. In the meantime, my goal is to help as many hurt surfers as I can. And, along the way, perhaps get a good chess game in now and again. :)
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
Sunday, October 31, 2010
Happy Samhain Tribe
Happy Samhain Tribe,
So, Halloween is upon us. Watch out for Wererats and Weresharks in hawaii, Werewolves in Europe as well as Werecats, and, over in Asia, beware of Weretigers. As for here, well, take care lest the WereOctopus grabs you out at Tentacles, it's been known to happen. Locally, most of the shaping shifting beasties are dogs, according to the local Native American legends, but some wolves come into play too. And of course, then there's all the shapeshifting sea creatures along the Pacific Northwest as well as over in the British Isles.
What fun.
I ended up tearing my meniscus, not on the near 50 foot wave, oh no, after all, that would have been a fun bar story. Instead, on a damned porch. Yep, a moss covered deck, and, off I went, into knee hell. I guess it's a good week for it, what with it being Samhain or Halloween week and all. It's laid me up for a few days so far. The Doctor says, such things never heal, but, with Chi Gung, I should be back and at em in no time. Basically, the meniscus is a type of cartilidge in the knee, and, because of the lack of blood supply, it typically can never heal in most people. That's where Bone Marrow Chi Gung comes into play. It's a way of restimulating the marrow in the bone, to change it from no marrow to marrow in older bones, and from yellow marrow to red marrow also in older bones. And, it also helps the blood flow. So, using Nei Dan Chi Gung as well as Wai Dan Chi Gung as forms of expression of Bone Marrow Chi Gung, I'll redirect the blood supply along the outside edge of the meniscus to redirect the small veins and such in the meniscus, to stimulate new bloodflow growth patterns, thus, sending fresh blood, oxygen, and Chi (Qi), into the torn wound within my knee.
Modern Western Medicine says it has to be cut out, if the damage progresses, since nothing can really be done, but, Chi Gung, being the root of Eastern Medicine, says there are ways to help it. My Knee Doctor, a leading guy in his field, says, if such a thing can happen, it'll be the makings of a Noble Prize in Medicine. We'll see about that. He wants to reexamine everything with his high intensity MRI 20X more powerful than most MRI's, in about 6 months, so, we'll see at that time whether your local surfer girl is up for a Nobel Prize or something of the sort. That would be rather fun. At any rate, in the meantime, I'll just do that which I do and give this a go with my way of healing.
And, what perfect timing to get so stupidly hurt, being such a magical time of year. A time filled with legends, mystery, magic, wonder, dreams, and the living dead, of course, not to mention werewolves and their like.
So, being hurt and all, yesterday I spent the day with my favorite movie, John Carpenter's The Thing, staring Kurt Russell. It's a GREAT horror /sci fi film. As such, I decorated my living room like an Arctic Explorer's base, sort of like in the movie, ate Military Expedition Rations, drank vodka, had a good supply of extra large ring sized (60) very dark (maduro) cigars on hand for guests of the dark woods, and played Russian Styled Chess (being of Siberian and Mongolian heritage - some of you may not have known that, this is my favorite style of Chess) on a travel chess set board that's been to the North Pole. How romantic is that!!! Sleeping on a military cot beneath a hammock, all night chess games, what greater fun for the limping wounded? I so need to get bit by something, anything will do, some were beastie or other, tonight to get some greaty lycantropy strength. Sigh. Hey, it could happen. After all, I live in the middle of the woods, in the middle of a swamp, at the very end of a single lane dirt trail, with a gypsy vardo (a gypsy wagon home) in my yard that I built myself. It doesn't get more creepy and eerie than that. I'll sit outside tonight, with a candle for light, play some chess with the clouds, and see what comes walking down the lonely path or crawls out of the creek, swamp, or woods.
Happy Halloween everyone,
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
So, Halloween is upon us. Watch out for Wererats and Weresharks in hawaii, Werewolves in Europe as well as Werecats, and, over in Asia, beware of Weretigers. As for here, well, take care lest the WereOctopus grabs you out at Tentacles, it's been known to happen. Locally, most of the shaping shifting beasties are dogs, according to the local Native American legends, but some wolves come into play too. And of course, then there's all the shapeshifting sea creatures along the Pacific Northwest as well as over in the British Isles.
What fun.
I ended up tearing my meniscus, not on the near 50 foot wave, oh no, after all, that would have been a fun bar story. Instead, on a damned porch. Yep, a moss covered deck, and, off I went, into knee hell. I guess it's a good week for it, what with it being Samhain or Halloween week and all. It's laid me up for a few days so far. The Doctor says, such things never heal, but, with Chi Gung, I should be back and at em in no time. Basically, the meniscus is a type of cartilidge in the knee, and, because of the lack of blood supply, it typically can never heal in most people. That's where Bone Marrow Chi Gung comes into play. It's a way of restimulating the marrow in the bone, to change it from no marrow to marrow in older bones, and from yellow marrow to red marrow also in older bones. And, it also helps the blood flow. So, using Nei Dan Chi Gung as well as Wai Dan Chi Gung as forms of expression of Bone Marrow Chi Gung, I'll redirect the blood supply along the outside edge of the meniscus to redirect the small veins and such in the meniscus, to stimulate new bloodflow growth patterns, thus, sending fresh blood, oxygen, and Chi (Qi), into the torn wound within my knee.
Modern Western Medicine says it has to be cut out, if the damage progresses, since nothing can really be done, but, Chi Gung, being the root of Eastern Medicine, says there are ways to help it. My Knee Doctor, a leading guy in his field, says, if such a thing can happen, it'll be the makings of a Noble Prize in Medicine. We'll see about that. He wants to reexamine everything with his high intensity MRI 20X more powerful than most MRI's, in about 6 months, so, we'll see at that time whether your local surfer girl is up for a Nobel Prize or something of the sort. That would be rather fun. At any rate, in the meantime, I'll just do that which I do and give this a go with my way of healing.
And, what perfect timing to get so stupidly hurt, being such a magical time of year. A time filled with legends, mystery, magic, wonder, dreams, and the living dead, of course, not to mention werewolves and their like.
So, being hurt and all, yesterday I spent the day with my favorite movie, John Carpenter's The Thing, staring Kurt Russell. It's a GREAT horror /sci fi film. As such, I decorated my living room like an Arctic Explorer's base, sort of like in the movie, ate Military Expedition Rations, drank vodka, had a good supply of extra large ring sized (60) very dark (maduro) cigars on hand for guests of the dark woods, and played Russian Styled Chess (being of Siberian and Mongolian heritage - some of you may not have known that, this is my favorite style of Chess) on a travel chess set board that's been to the North Pole. How romantic is that!!! Sleeping on a military cot beneath a hammock, all night chess games, what greater fun for the limping wounded? I so need to get bit by something, anything will do, some were beastie or other, tonight to get some greaty lycantropy strength. Sigh. Hey, it could happen. After all, I live in the middle of the woods, in the middle of a swamp, at the very end of a single lane dirt trail, with a gypsy vardo (a gypsy wagon home) in my yard that I built myself. It doesn't get more creepy and eerie than that. I'll sit outside tonight, with a candle for light, play some chess with the clouds, and see what comes walking down the lonely path or crawls out of the creek, swamp, or woods.
Happy Halloween everyone,
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
Saturday, October 23, 2010
Come Monday 47 Foot
Aloha Tribe,
And still she grows. some of the waves in the Wilds should hit 47 foot (Triple Overhead).
As a Watergirl student under one of the world's original Legends and originators of Big Wave Surfers, it seems like sort of a moral imperative to hit both breaks, simply as a means of self experimentation, of course. A 20% or so increase like that would be interesting as a comparative study in riding pressure based on height, probably thickness, and of naturally, mostly, Chi Analysis based on Yang Flow.
I admit it, I most certainly have never surfed a wave like this epic 47 footer yet, few, I'd imagine, have tried paddling into such a beast (I'm not Jet Ski trained and besides, I'm being trained in and truly love the ways of old-school, afterall, there's got to be a first time for a big wave virgin. Besides, when your mentor, who happens to be one of the greatest Big Wave Surfers ever says you're ready by saying the classic "fucking go for it" especially, when you feel it in your heart and know you've trained the best you can. After all, sometimes you just have to jump into the proverbial deep end of the pool, not for fame, not for glory, but simply for Soul Surfing, for, none will probably see this ride, who could, after all, for purity of the true essence of Soul Surfing, all one would need do is stick Number 9's.
I'd imagine that 47 Foot will probably reach a speed of about 35 mph or so, maybe more. Thus, here are the rules I've been told to follow (plus a couple of my thoughts on them following a few...
1. Be Ahead of the Game - Know yourself, know what to do, then, do it with 100% commitment.
2. No Mishaps - Once, I was preparing to go out with my mentor and another legend and I was told to "keep up," and, "do what we do." And, "oh, by the way, no falling."
3. Be Safe
4. Be Strong - Like the She-Hulk and the Silver Surfer (my literary fictional heroes who I literally base my training on).
5. Be Happy - I live by this one
6. Be Fast - Think like lightning, move like Quick Silver (mercury)
7. Be Cool - This one is pure Chi Gung
8. Be Calm -Also pure Chi Gung as well as my life style and natural expression.
9. Be Collective
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
And still she grows. some of the waves in the Wilds should hit 47 foot (Triple Overhead).
As a Watergirl student under one of the world's original Legends and originators of Big Wave Surfers, it seems like sort of a moral imperative to hit both breaks, simply as a means of self experimentation, of course. A 20% or so increase like that would be interesting as a comparative study in riding pressure based on height, probably thickness, and of naturally, mostly, Chi Analysis based on Yang Flow.
I admit it, I most certainly have never surfed a wave like this epic 47 footer yet, few, I'd imagine, have tried paddling into such a beast (I'm not Jet Ski trained and besides, I'm being trained in and truly love the ways of old-school, afterall, there's got to be a first time for a big wave virgin. Besides, when your mentor, who happens to be one of the greatest Big Wave Surfers ever says you're ready by saying the classic "fucking go for it" especially, when you feel it in your heart and know you've trained the best you can. After all, sometimes you just have to jump into the proverbial deep end of the pool, not for fame, not for glory, but simply for Soul Surfing, for, none will probably see this ride, who could, after all, for purity of the true essence of Soul Surfing, all one would need do is stick Number 9's.
I'd imagine that 47 Foot will probably reach a speed of about 35 mph or so, maybe more. Thus, here are the rules I've been told to follow (plus a couple of my thoughts on them following a few...
1. Be Ahead of the Game - Know yourself, know what to do, then, do it with 100% commitment.
2. No Mishaps - Once, I was preparing to go out with my mentor and another legend and I was told to "keep up," and, "do what we do." And, "oh, by the way, no falling."
3. Be Safe
4. Be Strong - Like the She-Hulk and the Silver Surfer (my literary fictional heroes who I literally base my training on).
5. Be Happy - I live by this one
6. Be Fast - Think like lightning, move like Quick Silver (mercury)
7. Be Cool - This one is pure Chi Gung
8. Be Calm -Also pure Chi Gung as well as my life style and natural expression.
9. Be Collective
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
Friday, October 22, 2010
35 Foot This Monday Dawn Patrol in the Wilds: The Chi Surfer
Aloha Tribe,
So, the coming swell is growing, and, shifting north. It'll hit here, in the Wilds, for Dawn Patrol Monday morniing. It should be about 35 foot with a 16 second Period.
I hope I can make it. It all depends on what happens Saturday. If I do go, my focus, as always, will be on Chi Surfing. That's where, while surfing, you absorb the Chi of the wave and store it in your Dan Tien. This stored energy can then be used later in a variety of situations, such as self healing if your hurt or sick or healing or helping others in need.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
So, the coming swell is growing, and, shifting north. It'll hit here, in the Wilds, for Dawn Patrol Monday morniing. It should be about 35 foot with a 16 second Period.
I hope I can make it. It all depends on what happens Saturday. If I do go, my focus, as always, will be on Chi Surfing. That's where, while surfing, you absorb the Chi of the wave and store it in your Dan Tien. This stored energy can then be used later in a variety of situations, such as self healing if your hurt or sick or healing or helping others in need.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
Thursday, October 21, 2010
NOHO Surf Balance Trainer: Glasses of Water: Perfect Steadyness: for Surfing, Slacklining, Soft Rope Walking, and Tight Wire Walking
Aloha Tribe,
I'm always using new and fun ways of working out with my NOHO Surf Balance Trainer attached to my longboard. What I seek, is perfection. Namely, perfect steadyness.
So, along this line, I have 12 plastic margaritta glasses that can be filled with water. And, these are then placed 6 to a side, nose to tail, of my longboard. The idea is, to not only make sure no glasses fall off the board, but more so, that no water spills, and, more than that, I am working on having the water as smooth as possible in the glasses.
With certain moves, like, the Drop Knee Cutback, where I like to drop my rear knee, in my case, my left knee, right down to the board with merely a fraction of an inch of room to spar. I find in this position, that it works my right thigh muscles, the quadriceps the best. With a weak leg muscle in your front leg, you'll probably notice that your board will shake intensely. But, simply stick with it. Do it again and again and again, really working your leg and buns muscles.
Try for perfection. After all, why not? For, in perfection, one finds art.
So, instead of doing the normal Cross Stepping moves, I've been working on walking like I would on both my Soft Rope and Slackline, as well as on my Tight Wire. Both types of balance and walking offer different experiences in balance and different muscle development.
To walk like you would on a Slackline or Soft Rope, you use your hips and knees to balance. Stand on one foot and get your balance. Then, when you have it, and you're sure you have it, slowly, smoothly bring your rear foot forward until it is roughtly even with your side. Then, for the shear practice of it, lift your leg as high to your side as you can, using your gluteus medius muscle to do this. If you can lift your foot, to your side, as high as your shoulder or higher, you're doing great, this, of course, requires not only strength, but also super balance. Then, slowly lower and raise your leg a bit, playing with your balance, feeling it out, experimenting, seeing how far you can go. When you are ready, slowly bring your foot that has been raised in front of your supporting foot and softly place weight on it, ball of the foot first, then toes, then heel. Once you have your weight on your front foot, begin the process again, only this time, you bring your other leg forward, and thus, it extends out and up to the opposite side of your previous leg. Do this for several steps on your NOHO Surf Balance Trainer, walking from the Tail to the Nose in this manner. Then, walk backwards, using the same process only in reverse.
Once you get back to where you started, it is now time to try Tight Wire styled walking. For this, your balance comes from your arms instead of from your hips and knees. And, thus, instead of holding your legs one at a a time out to the sides of your body like you did in the previous exercise, you simply bring each rear foot and place it surely in front of the supporting foot. This form of walking is less wobbly and more stable.
You'll find, if you practice both of these styles, that your coordination and balance on your longboard will skyrocket in leaps and bounds of joyful expression.
So, I do these types of exercises on my longboard, along with any other surfing moves I might want to practice on any given day, and then, I walk on a wooden pole that I have set up right next to my NOHO Surf Balance Trainer. The pole is one inch wide and 10 feet long. It offers a test of the previous exercises.
What I do is I do several laps on my longboard, then several laps on the pole, then several laps on my longboard, hour after hour. Or, if I want variance, I simply do the same thing in the Loft, using my Tight Wire Simulator and my home-made solid wood surfboard that sits on 4 balance disks.
I'm finding that the variation between going from the moving longboard to the steady wood pole and back, again and again and again, truly challenges my body and muscles. Oh, and, if you like, playing Surf Music and '60's Rock both seem to offer good vibrations for training with, giving your movements a sense of flow you might not otherwise have had.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
I'm always using new and fun ways of working out with my NOHO Surf Balance Trainer attached to my longboard. What I seek, is perfection. Namely, perfect steadyness.
So, along this line, I have 12 plastic margaritta glasses that can be filled with water. And, these are then placed 6 to a side, nose to tail, of my longboard. The idea is, to not only make sure no glasses fall off the board, but more so, that no water spills, and, more than that, I am working on having the water as smooth as possible in the glasses.
With certain moves, like, the Drop Knee Cutback, where I like to drop my rear knee, in my case, my left knee, right down to the board with merely a fraction of an inch of room to spar. I find in this position, that it works my right thigh muscles, the quadriceps the best. With a weak leg muscle in your front leg, you'll probably notice that your board will shake intensely. But, simply stick with it. Do it again and again and again, really working your leg and buns muscles.
Try for perfection. After all, why not? For, in perfection, one finds art.
So, instead of doing the normal Cross Stepping moves, I've been working on walking like I would on both my Soft Rope and Slackline, as well as on my Tight Wire. Both types of balance and walking offer different experiences in balance and different muscle development.
To walk like you would on a Slackline or Soft Rope, you use your hips and knees to balance. Stand on one foot and get your balance. Then, when you have it, and you're sure you have it, slowly, smoothly bring your rear foot forward until it is roughtly even with your side. Then, for the shear practice of it, lift your leg as high to your side as you can, using your gluteus medius muscle to do this. If you can lift your foot, to your side, as high as your shoulder or higher, you're doing great, this, of course, requires not only strength, but also super balance. Then, slowly lower and raise your leg a bit, playing with your balance, feeling it out, experimenting, seeing how far you can go. When you are ready, slowly bring your foot that has been raised in front of your supporting foot and softly place weight on it, ball of the foot first, then toes, then heel. Once you have your weight on your front foot, begin the process again, only this time, you bring your other leg forward, and thus, it extends out and up to the opposite side of your previous leg. Do this for several steps on your NOHO Surf Balance Trainer, walking from the Tail to the Nose in this manner. Then, walk backwards, using the same process only in reverse.
Once you get back to where you started, it is now time to try Tight Wire styled walking. For this, your balance comes from your arms instead of from your hips and knees. And, thus, instead of holding your legs one at a a time out to the sides of your body like you did in the previous exercise, you simply bring each rear foot and place it surely in front of the supporting foot. This form of walking is less wobbly and more stable.
You'll find, if you practice both of these styles, that your coordination and balance on your longboard will skyrocket in leaps and bounds of joyful expression.
So, I do these types of exercises on my longboard, along with any other surfing moves I might want to practice on any given day, and then, I walk on a wooden pole that I have set up right next to my NOHO Surf Balance Trainer. The pole is one inch wide and 10 feet long. It offers a test of the previous exercises.
What I do is I do several laps on my longboard, then several laps on the pole, then several laps on my longboard, hour after hour. Or, if I want variance, I simply do the same thing in the Loft, using my Tight Wire Simulator and my home-made solid wood surfboard that sits on 4 balance disks.
I'm finding that the variation between going from the moving longboard to the steady wood pole and back, again and again and again, truly challenges my body and muscles. Oh, and, if you like, playing Surf Music and '60's Rock both seem to offer good vibrations for training with, giving your movements a sense of flow you might not otherwise have had.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
Developing Sensitive Feet for Surfing, Slacklining, Tight Wire Walking, and Soft Rope Penetatration Arts
Aloha Tribe,
Would you like to make your feet more sensitive, so that no matter what your balance sport is, that you can feel your board or wire or rope better?
Well, here's a tip. Get some Chinese Wolf Berry and mix it with Sea Salt. Boil this. Then, while it's still warm, rub it into the soles of your feet. This method comes from the Chinese Soft Rope Penetration Arts for Soft Rope Walking. Now, here's the addition secret, and, the key to Chi Gung, for that matter.
Breath.
Okay, there's a bit more than that. Here's how. Inhale and exhale through your nose (not your mouth) as softly, slowly, and beautifully as you can - and, this means no noise. Your breath should be smooth and flowing.
As you do this, inhaling and exhaling as slowly as you can (perhaps 5 or 6 seconds on the inhale and 5 or 6 seconds on the exhale or whatever is good for you, to start with), eventually working up to 8 minutes plus per inhale, never stopping during that time but making a single inhalation literally last that long. It, takes practice.
As you do the breathing, a secret Chi Gung key is to have your tongue pressed against the roof of your mouth, on, the soft palete. In other words, you tongue curves back and up and touches the top of the inside of your mouth.
Keep your tongue held here the entire exercise. The reason has to do with how energy or Chi flows through the body.
Once you can do this, simply at this point, feel the warm water on the soles of your feet, bring your mind and attention to the damp warm feeling. Where you mind goes, your Chi flows.
As you try to sense the bottoms of your soles, focus on this particularly while inhaling. The reason for this it will help to draw Chi from the Wolfberry and Sea Salt into the soles of your feet, which, by the way, happen to be two of the five easiest spots on the human body to absorb Chi, Qi, or energy. In Japanese, by the way, the word for Chi or Qi is Ki. In Scotland, it' Maucht. Prana, in Hindi. Different word, same thing. In this case, a warm damp foot that is quickly drying off as you do this exercise.
By combining the herb and mineral as well as doing the breathing, your feet, will, in time, grow softer and more receptive to feelings and sensations. With this, you can then be more aware of all parts of the bottom of your foot in great detail, which, can then allow you to fully develop each of your foot muscles, which, are so vital in surfing (DD and Laird Hamilton have talked about this), as well as in Tight Wire, Tight Rope, Slackline, and Soft Rope.
In my Chi Gung training at the Master level back in the day, one thing I had to do was drink boiled wolfberry twice a day as well as eat it twice a day. Nasty tasting and smelling, by the way, but, a great way to increase Chi and thus your energy. Personally, while the smell is not great as you boil it, at least you're rubbing it on your feet and not eating or drinking it several times every day. Blech. But, part of the training, so, whatevers it takes.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
Would you like to make your feet more sensitive, so that no matter what your balance sport is, that you can feel your board or wire or rope better?
Well, here's a tip. Get some Chinese Wolf Berry and mix it with Sea Salt. Boil this. Then, while it's still warm, rub it into the soles of your feet. This method comes from the Chinese Soft Rope Penetration Arts for Soft Rope Walking. Now, here's the addition secret, and, the key to Chi Gung, for that matter.
Breath.
Okay, there's a bit more than that. Here's how. Inhale and exhale through your nose (not your mouth) as softly, slowly, and beautifully as you can - and, this means no noise. Your breath should be smooth and flowing.
As you do this, inhaling and exhaling as slowly as you can (perhaps 5 or 6 seconds on the inhale and 5 or 6 seconds on the exhale or whatever is good for you, to start with), eventually working up to 8 minutes plus per inhale, never stopping during that time but making a single inhalation literally last that long. It, takes practice.
As you do the breathing, a secret Chi Gung key is to have your tongue pressed against the roof of your mouth, on, the soft palete. In other words, you tongue curves back and up and touches the top of the inside of your mouth.
Keep your tongue held here the entire exercise. The reason has to do with how energy or Chi flows through the body.
Once you can do this, simply at this point, feel the warm water on the soles of your feet, bring your mind and attention to the damp warm feeling. Where you mind goes, your Chi flows.
As you try to sense the bottoms of your soles, focus on this particularly while inhaling. The reason for this it will help to draw Chi from the Wolfberry and Sea Salt into the soles of your feet, which, by the way, happen to be two of the five easiest spots on the human body to absorb Chi, Qi, or energy. In Japanese, by the way, the word for Chi or Qi is Ki. In Scotland, it' Maucht. Prana, in Hindi. Different word, same thing. In this case, a warm damp foot that is quickly drying off as you do this exercise.
By combining the herb and mineral as well as doing the breathing, your feet, will, in time, grow softer and more receptive to feelings and sensations. With this, you can then be more aware of all parts of the bottom of your foot in great detail, which, can then allow you to fully develop each of your foot muscles, which, are so vital in surfing (DD and Laird Hamilton have talked about this), as well as in Tight Wire, Tight Rope, Slackline, and Soft Rope.
In my Chi Gung training at the Master level back in the day, one thing I had to do was drink boiled wolfberry twice a day as well as eat it twice a day. Nasty tasting and smelling, by the way, but, a great way to increase Chi and thus your energy. Personally, while the smell is not great as you boil it, at least you're rubbing it on your feet and not eating or drinking it several times every day. Blech. But, part of the training, so, whatevers it takes.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
28 Foot (Triple Overhead) Sunday in the Wilds, 35 Foot a few hours South
Aloha Tribe,
The massive storm coming, is racing a bit ahead of schedule, it now looks like, driving big 28 foot waves toward me to arrive on this coming Sunday. Yesterday, it looked like it might be Monday, but now, it is coming sooner. Or, if I wanted to go for a couple hours extra drive, I could find some 35 footers (Triple Overheads).
Now granted, these waves will be tough if not nearly impossible, and, dangerous beyond all reason, mostly because of the fact they'll be Closed Out, but also simply because of how the waves hit here. Perhaps a few might dare them, that'd be awesome to sit in the Line Up with you and meet you. But, if this is like it was last Winter and early Spring, I'll be the only one out. Dangerous and foolish, by the way to do that, so, please, don't anybody else try something like that. You truly need to know how to survive in that kind of sea, how to swim it, how to take the beatings, and here, how to even punch through it.
It requires a special kind of move that I've worked on all Summer and Fall, getting ready, for that time when you do find yourself in the sea beneath a mountain about to destroy you. It's a way of using Chi Gung, as a form of swimming, to guide yourself through the inevitable spin cycle to survival.
Helpful too, of course, is breath control, in fact, it's vital because, unlike the beautiful waves on the North Shore of Oahu, for example, with their long periods and perfect faces, here, the biting cold water will tear at your soul and the short periods will be more than you ever imagined as you are hit by wave after wave after wave, held under, at times, for an eternity. If you can hold your breath under such circumstances for 8 minutes or more in such situations, it can save your very life. If you can't, you really shouldn't be out without realizing the risk you're taking.
Waves like this, in the Wilds, happen. And, when it's all you have, you have to learn to live with it and more so, to play with it, for, it's all there is. But it takes a certain way of looking at the sea to long to step up and dance in dangerous situations like this.
Sunday, Monday, whenevers, when this storm comes, the sea will be a monster. And all who dare her embrace will be in for a thrashing. So, respect is vital. The sea, she is alive, she has a spirit, a soul, and, this must be honored as Watermen and Watergirls know.
Oh, and, leave your watercraft at HOME. The wilds is for, primitive surfing, wild space, the embrace of nature in her fury and in her primal feral darkness. If you want it, really want it, then, learn to paddle out in this kind of set. Let others play with their gasoline toys in other lands. Here, there be beasts.
One of the exercises I will be doing out there, is working with my Swiss Ball. Darrick Doerner (DD), the famous big wave surfer and my surfing and Watergirl mentor, has taught me how to do some very special exercises with it in seas like this. So, I'll have my board, my Swiss ball, and, my Coast Guard Rescue Swimmer Rocket fins for some serious Coastal Swimming. As a Watergirl, there is so much for me to do and train in wild seas. So, such storms make me smile. Which is, by the way, one of the secrets in this kind of sea, for if your smile is genuine, you can understand yourself and have a loose body. Fear will make you tense, so what one needs instead, is to respect the sea in all of her teachings as she talks to us and shows us all, as members of The Tribe, to understand her language and to speak with her in her own tongue, in her own way, in her own time.
In the meantime, until this weekend comes, I shall be back to the Basics, again and again and again. Studying the sea and surf science, training my balance, my endurance, my strength in various ways, (roughly 28 or so that I mentioned way back in the Fall or early Winter about a year ago or so. My training, as always, will be intense, all day and most of the night, every day and night. It's about 2:15 AM or so right now, on a night with a near full moon, I am up, and, I am training. My day ahead will be long and brutal and necessary and it has me stoked. In the next few days ahead, I'll sleep only an hour or two a day, and eat only water, bringing my body as close as I can inside and outside to her natural watery state. And, after I surf, on Sunday or Monday or whenevers, when the seas lay down a bit, I'll get some rest and revitalize and restrengthen my body, mind, and spirit doing Chi Gung and of course, honoring the sea by having a fish taco and some fruit (a very watery food - much yin).
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
The massive storm coming, is racing a bit ahead of schedule, it now looks like, driving big 28 foot waves toward me to arrive on this coming Sunday. Yesterday, it looked like it might be Monday, but now, it is coming sooner. Or, if I wanted to go for a couple hours extra drive, I could find some 35 footers (Triple Overheads).
Now granted, these waves will be tough if not nearly impossible, and, dangerous beyond all reason, mostly because of the fact they'll be Closed Out, but also simply because of how the waves hit here. Perhaps a few might dare them, that'd be awesome to sit in the Line Up with you and meet you. But, if this is like it was last Winter and early Spring, I'll be the only one out. Dangerous and foolish, by the way to do that, so, please, don't anybody else try something like that. You truly need to know how to survive in that kind of sea, how to swim it, how to take the beatings, and here, how to even punch through it.
It requires a special kind of move that I've worked on all Summer and Fall, getting ready, for that time when you do find yourself in the sea beneath a mountain about to destroy you. It's a way of using Chi Gung, as a form of swimming, to guide yourself through the inevitable spin cycle to survival.
Helpful too, of course, is breath control, in fact, it's vital because, unlike the beautiful waves on the North Shore of Oahu, for example, with their long periods and perfect faces, here, the biting cold water will tear at your soul and the short periods will be more than you ever imagined as you are hit by wave after wave after wave, held under, at times, for an eternity. If you can hold your breath under such circumstances for 8 minutes or more in such situations, it can save your very life. If you can't, you really shouldn't be out without realizing the risk you're taking.
Waves like this, in the Wilds, happen. And, when it's all you have, you have to learn to live with it and more so, to play with it, for, it's all there is. But it takes a certain way of looking at the sea to long to step up and dance in dangerous situations like this.
Sunday, Monday, whenevers, when this storm comes, the sea will be a monster. And all who dare her embrace will be in for a thrashing. So, respect is vital. The sea, she is alive, she has a spirit, a soul, and, this must be honored as Watermen and Watergirls know.
Oh, and, leave your watercraft at HOME. The wilds is for, primitive surfing, wild space, the embrace of nature in her fury and in her primal feral darkness. If you want it, really want it, then, learn to paddle out in this kind of set. Let others play with their gasoline toys in other lands. Here, there be beasts.
One of the exercises I will be doing out there, is working with my Swiss Ball. Darrick Doerner (DD), the famous big wave surfer and my surfing and Watergirl mentor, has taught me how to do some very special exercises with it in seas like this. So, I'll have my board, my Swiss ball, and, my Coast Guard Rescue Swimmer Rocket fins for some serious Coastal Swimming. As a Watergirl, there is so much for me to do and train in wild seas. So, such storms make me smile. Which is, by the way, one of the secrets in this kind of sea, for if your smile is genuine, you can understand yourself and have a loose body. Fear will make you tense, so what one needs instead, is to respect the sea in all of her teachings as she talks to us and shows us all, as members of The Tribe, to understand her language and to speak with her in her own tongue, in her own way, in her own time.
In the meantime, until this weekend comes, I shall be back to the Basics, again and again and again. Studying the sea and surf science, training my balance, my endurance, my strength in various ways, (roughly 28 or so that I mentioned way back in the Fall or early Winter about a year ago or so. My training, as always, will be intense, all day and most of the night, every day and night. It's about 2:15 AM or so right now, on a night with a near full moon, I am up, and, I am training. My day ahead will be long and brutal and necessary and it has me stoked. In the next few days ahead, I'll sleep only an hour or two a day, and eat only water, bringing my body as close as I can inside and outside to her natural watery state. And, after I surf, on Sunday or Monday or whenevers, when the seas lay down a bit, I'll get some rest and revitalize and restrengthen my body, mind, and spirit doing Chi Gung and of course, honoring the sea by having a fish taco and some fruit (a very watery food - much yin).
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
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