Aloha Tribe,
Well, today is the 1st Day of Christmas. If you've been able to follow along, hopefully you were able to surf on Christmas Eve (yes, at night, at Midnight, under the Full Moon - with a Lunar Eclipse, I might add), Christmas Morning (at the very least on Christmas Day), and, now, today and for the next 11 more Days, leading to a total of 14 Days of Christmas Surfing during the "12 Days" of Christmas. As most know, Christmas Day counts as Day 0, yesterday was Day 1, which makes today, Monday, Day 2.
The idea, is to pick something that, to you, is important to work on, a great thing, especially at this time of year, is, Style.
You see, the Holiday Season, regardless of ones faith or religion or anything of the sort, is a great time to focus one personal growth, and, as surfers and members of The Tribe, we all would naturally, by our very love of the sea, gravitate towards honing our surfing, for, what else is there, eh brahs?
And, what could be an overall greater sense of surfing sense, than, Style.
Thus, I'm focusing each day of the 12 Days of Christmas, all 14 of them, on working on making my Style softer, more graceful, smoother, more relaxed, more feminine (you boys don't have to focus on this one of course, unless, you are truly comfortable with your sexual identity, naturally - in which case I say, "go for it" for it truly would greater mellow out your surfing), more flowing, more mellow, more hippy girl (yes, I hug waves, sing to sea turtles, dance with dolphins, and genuinely smile with twinkling eyes at all fishes - yes, even those big fish we tend to not really want to think about), and, in a single word, more beautiful.
To do this, I'm doing a number of things in my training, which include, more or less all of the balance type training I've been doing for quite some time now, but with the added focus and attention to making every subtle body shift as smooth, natural, flowing, and beautiful as possible. In this way, as my dynamic balance adjusts while surfing, it offers me total control of each and every fraction of a mm of movement and fraction of a second of time. This type of training teaches you to "slow time," by actually allowing you and forcing you to think quicker, much much quicker, up to a rate of about 1/25 of a second as far as reaction time goes. Technically, you'll learn to move, think, and sense even faster than that for you can train yourself to work within that 1/25th of a second as a form of performance art, allowing creative expression of each moment. This, of course, offers then all kinds of potential and artistic experimentation on the waves, in ways you've not ever thought of before.
The key to this focus of Surfing Style for lightning fast movements with seemingly time stopping awareness, is, slowness. Extreme slowness in your training. Which involves truly feeling and sensing each and every fiber of your muscles as they pull and relax with your movements. For those who love this kind of experimentation, what you are learning here, is, Chi Gung Surfing Style, for, in such a time stopping sense of awareness and focus, you can then go deeper, much much much deeper, to the inner level of your bodies energy flow. And that, brahs, is where the real fun begins!!! For, it is the first step.
Many, of course, most actually, even with a lifetime of surfing, will never reach this lowest or first step, but, for those in-the-know, namely, those who hope for and dream of such surfing mastery, such a quest could be not followed, for it draws and sings to the soul of the Vagabond Feral Surfer with such intensity, that it can't be ignored. Hmm, hopefully there wasn't too many double negatives there for that to make sense, goodness. Bottom line, the more you do it, the more you do it, and, the more you have to do it.
Eh brahs, even if you've not been doing this kind of surfing for the last 4 days (including today), there's no reason to not start right now!!! And, if you can't surf every day, hey, that's cool, surf as much as you can. And, when you're beached, simply work on your Style in the sand, in your yard, in a park, or in your home. Wherevers brahs.
I just got off a several hour slackline session, where I focused on my Pop Ups and my Style for Dropping Down the Face before the Bottom Turn, while on the slackline, Pretty way awesomely bodacious fun that!!! You all so must try it. Get a slackline, or, a rope, or, even as the Father of Bouldering John Gill taught me, use a chain, and, suspend it between two supports like trees, boulders, your car and maybe a trained elephant (naturally, it would be a tamed one that loves playing in this kind of way) or whatevers, and try it. Working the chain is way Old-School when it comes to slacklining, incidentally, and it was John Gill who developed it about 20 years before modern slacklining was invented with the mountain climbing webbing that we all use today. Slacklines, by the way, are great ways to train because they offer dynamic motion which presents you with a myriad of opportunites for play and experimentation. And, if you want something even tougher, try soft roping also called loose roping on a loosely hung rope, now that's real fun brahs!!! Slacklines, by the way, are typically tensioned so they are level with the ground prior to you stepping on them, whereas a loose rope is suspended like the letter U, only not as dramatically, of course, and more stretched out a bit, depending upon your anchor points, naturally, you could, if you like think of it as looking like a super bodaciously aweome smile, which, is how I love to see my loose rope. I'm into smiles I guess. It comes from truly living and dancing in-the-moment, each and every second of life - which, for me, came about because of my several near-death accidents at various times in my life. Whatevers. Smile at the world, it's a lot more fun. And, you know, it'll make your surfing much better too!!!
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
Monday, December 27, 2010
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