Monday, December 6, 2010

A Surfer's Christmas

Aloha Tribe,

Christmas is on it's way soon, in just 20 days or so, which gives me about 3 more weeks before I celebrate getting my Robert August Wingnut longboard last year. It's been an interesting year. My goal was to go from Kahuna Tuna or rank beginner, to big wave rider, in, one year. I have three more weeks about.

It's been a challenge at times, tearing my mensicus like I did, and I'm still sitting here with that, but, well, three weeks is three weeks. So, sometime in the next three weeks I'll get into the perfect wave. I had a shot at that 47 footer back about 6 weeks ago, but that's when fate stepped in that day, making me lose several weeks. But, such is life. In the meantime, my Pidgin and Surfish got to improve quite a bit, so that's a cool thing, and, I got a lot of time to work on trying to develope the perfect Watergirl body, a feat, never possible, of course, but fun anyways.

As most of the Tribe know, Christmas morning is made for, what else, Dawn Patrol surfing. And, Santa, of course. My two favorite S words.

My meal this year for Christmas is based on the theme of a French/Vietnam country vagabond circus. The reason for this, is the tightwire I might be getting from Santa, if I'm good enough. The tightwire, of course,  is to be used to help my surfing get wired tight.

So, I'm not fully sure yet what the exact meal will consist of, but it will be a combination of both French foods and Vietnam foods, both, country style.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

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