Sunday, October 31, 2010

Happy Samhain Tribe

Happy Samhain Tribe,

So, Halloween is upon us. Watch out for Wererats and Weresharks in hawaii, Werewolves in Europe as well as Werecats, and, over in Asia, beware of Weretigers. As for here, well, take care lest the WereOctopus grabs you out at Tentacles, it's been known to happen. Locally, most of the shaping shifting beasties are dogs, according to the local Native American legends, but some wolves come into play too. And of course, then there's all the shapeshifting sea creatures along the Pacific Northwest as well as over in the British Isles.

What fun.

I ended up tearing my meniscus, not on the near 50 foot wave, oh no, after all, that would have been a fun bar story. Instead, on a damned porch. Yep, a moss covered deck, and, off I went, into knee hell. I guess it's a good week for it, what with it being Samhain or Halloween week and all. It's laid me up for a few days so far. The Doctor says, such things never heal, but, with Chi Gung, I should be back and at em in no time. Basically, the meniscus is a type of cartilidge in the knee, and, because of the lack of blood supply, it typically can never heal in most people. That's where Bone Marrow Chi  Gung comes into play. It's a way of restimulating the marrow in the bone, to change it from no marrow to marrow in older bones, and from yellow marrow to red marrow also in older bones. And, it also helps the blood flow. So, using Nei Dan Chi Gung as well as Wai Dan Chi Gung as forms of expression of Bone Marrow Chi  Gung, I'll redirect the blood supply along the outside edge of the meniscus to redirect the small veins and such in the meniscus, to stimulate new bloodflow growth patterns, thus, sending fresh blood, oxygen, and Chi (Qi), into the torn wound within my knee.

Modern Western Medicine says it has to be cut out, if the damage progresses, since nothing can really be done, but, Chi Gung, being the root of Eastern Medicine, says there are ways to help it. My Knee Doctor, a leading guy in his field, says, if such a thing can happen, it'll be the makings of a Noble Prize in Medicine. We'll see about that. He wants to reexamine everything with his high intensity MRI 20X more powerful than most MRI's, in about 6 months, so, we'll see at that time whether your local surfer girl is up for a Nobel Prize or something of the sort. That would be rather fun. At any rate, in the meantime, I'll just do that which I do and give this a go with my way of healing.

And, what perfect timing to get so stupidly hurt, being such a magical time of year. A time filled with legends, mystery, magic, wonder, dreams, and the living dead, of course, not to mention werewolves and their like.

So, being hurt and all, yesterday I spent the day with my favorite movie, John Carpenter's The Thing, staring Kurt Russell. It's a GREAT horror /sci fi film.  As such, I decorated my living room like an Arctic Explorer's base, sort of like in the movie, ate Military Expedition Rations, drank vodka,  had a good supply of extra large ring sized  (60) very dark (maduro) cigars on hand for guests of the dark woods, and played Russian Styled Chess (being of Siberian and Mongolian heritage - some of you may not have known that,  this is my favorite style of Chess) on a travel chess set board that's been to the North Pole. How romantic is that!!! Sleeping on a military cot beneath a hammock, all night chess games, what greater fun for the limping wounded? I so need to get bit by something, anything will do, some were beastie or other, tonight to get some greaty lycantropy strength. Sigh. Hey, it could happen. After all, I live in the middle of the woods, in the middle of a swamp, at the very end of a single lane dirt trail, with a gypsy vardo (a gypsy wagon home) in my yard that I built myself. It doesn't get more creepy and eerie than that. I'll sit outside tonight, with a candle for light, play some chess with the clouds, and see what comes walking down the lonely path or crawls out of the creek, swamp, or woods.

Happy Halloween everyone,

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Saturday, October 23, 2010

Come Monday 47 Foot

Aloha Tribe,

And still she grows. some of  the waves  in the Wilds should hit 47 foot (Triple Overhead).

As a Watergirl student under one of the world's original Legends and originators of Big Wave Surfers, it seems like sort of a moral imperative to hit both breaks, simply as a means of self experimentation, of course. A 20% or so increase like that would be interesting as a comparative study in riding pressure based on height,  probably thickness, and of naturally, mostly, Chi Analysis based on Yang Flow.

I admit it, I most certainly have never surfed a wave like this epic 47 footer yet, few, I'd imagine, have tried paddling into such a beast (I'm not Jet Ski trained and besides, I'm being trained in and truly love the ways of old-school, afterall, there's got to be a first time for a big wave virgin. Besides, when your mentor, who happens to be one of the greatest Big Wave Surfers ever says you're ready by saying the classic "fucking go for it"  especially, when you feel it in your heart and know you've trained the best you can. After all, sometimes you just have to jump into the proverbial deep end of the pool, not for fame, not for glory, but simply for Soul Surfing, for, none will probably see this ride, who could, after all, for purity of the true essence of Soul Surfing, all one would need do is stick Number 9's.

I'd imagine that 47  Foot will probably reach a speed of about 35 mph or so, maybe more. Thus, here are the rules I've been told to follow (plus a couple of my thoughts on them following a few...

1. Be Ahead of the Game - Know yourself, know what to do, then, do it with 100% commitment.

2. No Mishaps - Once, I was preparing to  go out with my mentor and another legend and I was told to "keep up," and, "do what we do." And, "oh, by the way, no falling."

3. Be Safe

4. Be Strong - Like the She-Hulk and the Silver Surfer (my literary fictional heroes who I literally base my training on).

5. Be Happy - I live by this one

6. Be Fast - Think like lightning, move like Quick Silver (mercury)

7. Be Cool - This one is pure Chi Gung

8. Be Calm -Also pure Chi Gung as well as my life style and natural expression.

9. Be Collective

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Friday, October 22, 2010

35 Foot This Monday Dawn Patrol in the Wilds: The Chi Surfer

Aloha Tribe,

So, the coming swell is growing, and, shifting north. It'll hit here, in the Wilds, for Dawn Patrol Monday morniing. It should be about 35 foot with a 16 second Period.

I hope I can make it. It all depends on what happens Saturday. If I do go, my focus, as always, will be on  Chi Surfing. That's where, while surfing, you absorb the Chi of the wave and store it in your Dan Tien. This stored energy can then be used later in a variety of situations, such as self healing if your hurt or sick or healing or helping others in need.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Thursday, October 21, 2010

NOHO Surf Balance Trainer: Glasses of Water: Perfect Steadyness: for Surfing, Slacklining, Soft Rope Walking, and Tight Wire Walking

Aloha Tribe,

I'm always using new and fun ways of working out with my NOHO Surf Balance Trainer attached to my longboard. What I seek, is perfection. Namely, perfect steadyness.

So, along this line, I have 12 plastic margaritta glasses that can be filled with water. And, these are then placed 6 to a side, nose to tail, of my longboard. The idea is, to not only make sure no glasses fall off the board, but more so, that no water spills, and, more than that, I am working on having the water as smooth as possible in the glasses.

With certain moves, like, the Drop Knee Cutback, where I like to drop my rear knee, in my case, my left knee, right down to the board with merely a fraction of an inch of room to spar. I find in this position, that it works my right thigh muscles, the quadriceps the best. With a weak leg muscle in your front leg, you'll probably notice that your board will shake intensely. But, simply stick with it. Do it again and again and again, really working your leg and buns muscles.

Try for perfection. After all, why not?  For, in perfection, one finds art.

So, instead of doing the normal Cross Stepping moves, I've been working on walking like I would on both my Soft Rope and Slackline, as well as on my Tight Wire.  Both types of balance and walking offer different experiences in balance and different muscle development.

To walk like  you would on a Slackline or Soft Rope, you use your hips and knees to balance. Stand on one foot and get your balance. Then, when you have it, and you're sure you have it, slowly, smoothly bring your rear foot forward until it is roughtly even with your side. Then, for the shear practice of it, lift your leg as high to your side as you can, using your gluteus medius muscle to do this. If you can lift your foot, to your side, as high as your shoulder or higher, you're doing great, this, of course, requires not only strength, but also super balance. Then, slowly lower and raise your leg a bit, playing with your balance, feeling it out, experimenting, seeing how far you can go. When you are ready, slowly bring your foot that has been raised in front of your supporting foot and softly place weight on it, ball of the foot first, then toes, then heel.  Once you have your weight on your front foot, begin the process again, only this time, you bring your other leg forward, and thus, it extends out and up to the opposite side of your previous leg. Do this for several steps on your NOHO Surf Balance Trainer, walking from the Tail to the Nose in this manner. Then, walk backwards, using the same process only in reverse.

Once you get back to where you started, it is now time to try Tight Wire styled walking. For this, your balance comes from your arms instead of from your hips and knees. And, thus, instead of holding your legs one at a a time out to the sides of your body like you did in the previous exercise, you simply bring each rear foot and place it surely in front of the supporting foot. This form of walking is less wobbly and more stable.

You'll find, if you practice both of these styles, that your coordination and balance on your longboard will skyrocket in leaps and bounds of joyful expression.

So, I do these types of exercises on my longboard, along with any other surfing moves I might want to practice on any given day, and then, I walk on a wooden pole that I have set up right next to my NOHO Surf Balance Trainer. The pole is one inch wide and 10 feet long. It offers a test of the previous exercises.

What I do is I do several laps on my longboard, then several laps on the pole, then several laps on my longboard, hour after hour. Or, if I want variance, I simply do the same thing in the Loft, using my Tight Wire Simulator and my home-made solid wood surfboard that sits on 4 balance disks.

I'm finding that the variation between going from the moving longboard to the steady wood pole and back, again and again and again, truly challenges my body and muscles. Oh, and, if you like, playing Surf Music and '60's Rock both seem to offer good vibrations for training with, giving your movements a sense of flow you might not otherwise have had.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Developing Sensitive Feet for Surfing, Slacklining, Tight Wire Walking, and Soft Rope Penetatration Arts

Aloha Tribe,

Would you like to make your feet more sensitive, so that no matter what your balance sport is, that you can feel your board or wire or rope better?

Well, here's a tip. Get some Chinese Wolf Berry and mix it with Sea Salt. Boil this. Then, while it's still warm, rub it into the soles of your feet. This method comes from the Chinese Soft Rope Penetration Arts for Soft Rope Walking. Now, here's the addition secret, and, the key to Chi Gung, for that matter.

Breath.

Okay, there's a bit more than that. Here's how. Inhale and exhale through your nose (not your mouth) as softly, slowly, and beautifully as you can - and, this means no noise. Your breath should be smooth and flowing.

As you do this, inhaling and exhaling as slowly as you can (perhaps 5 or 6 seconds on the inhale and 5 or 6 seconds on the exhale or whatever is good for you, to start with), eventually working up to 8 minutes plus per inhale, never stopping during that time but making a single inhalation literally last that long. It, takes practice.

As you do the breathing, a secret Chi Gung key is to have your tongue pressed against the roof of your mouth, on, the soft palete. In other words, you tongue curves back and up and touches the top of the inside of your mouth.

Keep your tongue held here the entire exercise. The reason has to do with how energy or Chi flows through the body.

Once you can do this, simply at this point, feel the warm water on the soles of your feet, bring your mind and attention to the damp warm feeling. Where you mind goes, your Chi flows.

As you try to sense the bottoms of your soles, focus on this particularly while inhaling. The reason for this it will help to draw Chi from the Wolfberry and Sea  Salt into the soles of your feet, which, by the way, happen to be two of the five easiest spots on the human body to absorb Chi, Qi, or energy.  In Japanese, by the way, the word for Chi or Qi is Ki. In Scotland, it' Maucht. Prana, in Hindi. Different word, same thing. In this case, a warm damp foot that is quickly drying off as you do this exercise.

By combining the herb and mineral as well as doing the breathing, your feet, will, in time, grow softer and more receptive to feelings and sensations.  With this, you can then be more aware of all parts of the bottom of your foot in great detail, which, can then allow you to fully develop each of your foot muscles, which, are so vital in surfing (DD and Laird Hamilton have talked about this), as well as in Tight Wire, Tight Rope, Slackline, and Soft Rope.

In my Chi Gung training at the Master level back in the day, one thing I had to do was drink boiled wolfberry twice a day as  well as eat it twice a day. Nasty tasting and smelling, by the way, but, a great way to increase Chi and thus your energy.  Personally, while the smell is not great as you boil it, at least you're rubbing it on your feet and not eating or drinking it several times every day. Blech. But, part of the training, so, whatevers it  takes.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

28 Foot (Triple Overhead) Sunday in the Wilds, 35 Foot a few hours South

Aloha Tribe,

The massive storm coming, is racing a bit ahead of schedule, it now looks like, driving big 28 foot waves toward me to arrive on this coming Sunday. Yesterday, it looked like it might be Monday, but now, it is coming sooner. Or, if I wanted to go for a couple hours extra drive, I could find some 35 footers (Triple Overheads).

Now granted, these waves will be tough if not nearly impossible, and, dangerous beyond all reason, mostly because of the fact they'll be Closed Out, but also simply because of how the waves hit here. Perhaps a few might dare them, that'd be awesome to sit in the Line Up with you and meet you. But, if this is like it was last Winter and early Spring, I'll be the only one out. Dangerous and foolish, by the way to do that, so, please, don't anybody else try something like that. You truly need to know how to survive in that kind of sea, how to swim it, how to take the beatings, and here, how to even punch through it.

It requires a special kind of move that I've worked on all Summer and  Fall, getting ready, for that time when you do find yourself in the sea beneath a mountain about to destroy you. It's a way of using Chi Gung, as a form of swimming, to guide yourself through the inevitable spin cycle to survival.

Helpful too, of course, is breath control, in fact, it's vital because, unlike the beautiful waves on the North Shore of Oahu, for example, with their long periods and perfect faces, here, the biting cold water will tear at your soul and the short periods will be more than you ever imagined as you are hit by wave after wave after wave, held under, at times, for an eternity. If you can hold your breath under such circumstances for 8 minutes or more in such situations, it can save your very life. If you can't, you really shouldn't be out without realizing the risk you're taking.

Waves like this, in the Wilds, happen. And, when it's all you have, you have to learn to live with it and more so, to play with it, for, it's all there is. But it takes a certain way of looking at the sea to long to step up and dance in dangerous situations like this.

Sunday, Monday, whenevers, when this storm comes, the sea will be a monster. And all who dare her embrace will be in for a thrashing. So, respect is vital. The sea, she is alive, she has a spirit, a soul, and, this must be honored as Watermen and Watergirls know.

Oh, and, leave your watercraft at HOME. The wilds is for, primitive surfing, wild space, the embrace of nature in her fury and in her primal feral darkness. If you want it, really want it, then, learn to paddle out in this kind of set. Let others play with their gasoline toys in other lands. Here, there be beasts.

One of the exercises I will be doing out there, is working with my Swiss Ball. Darrick Doerner (DD), the famous big wave surfer and my surfing and Watergirl mentor, has taught me how to do some very  special exercises with it in seas like this.  So, I'll have my board, my Swiss ball, and, my Coast Guard Rescue Swimmer Rocket fins for some serious Coastal Swimming. As a Watergirl, there is so much for me to do and train in wild seas. So, such storms make me smile. Which is, by the way, one of the secrets in this kind of sea, for if your smile is genuine, you can understand yourself and have a loose body. Fear will make you tense, so what one needs instead, is to respect the sea in all of her teachings as she talks to us and shows us all, as members of The Tribe, to understand her language and to speak with her in her own tongue, in her own way, in her own time.

In the meantime, until this weekend comes, I shall be back to the Basics, again and again and again. Studying the sea and surf science, training my balance, my endurance, my strength in various ways, (roughly 28 or so that I mentioned way back in  the Fall or early Winter about a year ago or so. My training, as always, will be intense, all day and most of  the night, every day and night. It's about 2:15 AM or so right now, on a night with a near full moon, I am up, and, I am training. My day ahead will be long and brutal and necessary and it has me stoked. In the next few days ahead, I'll sleep only an hour or two a day, and eat only water, bringing my body as close as I can inside and outside to her natural watery state. And, after I surf, on Sunday or Monday or whenevers, when the seas lay down a bit, I'll get some rest and revitalize and restrengthen my body, mind, and spirit doing Chi Gung and of course, honoring the sea by having a fish taco and some fruit (a very watery food - much yin).

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Tuesday, October 19, 2010

Triple Overhead (18 footers) this Weekend, 28 footers coming Monday!!!

Aloha Tribe,

So, this weekend should be a wild time surfing, swimming, and Coastal Swimming. There should be Triple Overhead 18 foot waves this weekend with about 13 second periods. But the fun really begins on Monday, yep, Monday, with 28 Footers bashing those brave enough to dare to hell and back. Oh my gosh, talk about totally killer.

Pretty exciting. I do  have to see my Veteranarian on Saturday, about one of my chickens - I so hope she turns out okay, but then, after that, the weekend is wide open. I'm rather stoked.

Today was a good day of training, I had to workout at home but  first, I got in about 6 hours of Slacklining, Tight Wire Walking,  Loose Rope Walking, as well as my Remo Williams gym workout in, and then, I really got to work with  a few more hours of training doing some mountain biking, some hiking, and, the creme de la creme, tightrope and loose rope walking training on the swinging bridge across the river (walking this is like getting hit by a major wave with every step, a total balance killer).

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Monday, October 18, 2010

Psoas Major and Iliacus Muscles for Balance: Rather sexy

Aloha Tribe,

I just got done walking about 30 trips on my Tight Wire Simulator, after, my previous 4 hour balance workout this morning, and it was really fun to see my morning workout paying off.

My Tight Wire walking was really fun. More so, it really way totally worked my Psoas Major muscles and my Iliacus Muscles. Not only does it feel great to push those muscles, but to actually see them changing these last few weeks, to see them taking shape is kind of sexy and fun. They're cute muscles, and, of course, they have very practical applications for many forms of sports as well as for artistic physical expression.

These muscles, the Psoas Major and the Iliacus, as well as the Gluteus Maximus and Gluteus Medius, will be super beneficial for Riding Sliding Ass on my new home-made solid wood, skegless, surfboard.  That's awesomely cool, because I love that feeling and it's my favorite riding style and on my new board, the muscles will really go into overdrive and develop even more with the heavy plank.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Balance Training Loft: Remo Williams Style for Surfing

Aloha Tribe,

My loft is coming together. I have several stations in it, put together as a run or sequence to follow. Of course, it can be reversed, as well as alter direction at any of the changeover spots.

The stations, so far are...

1. 10 foot long home-made solid wood surfboard on rail roller - allowing side to side movements  both to the left and to the right just as though you were doing a Frontside Turn or a Backside Turn.

2. Balance Log with 2 x 6, eight foot, board, allowing forward and backward balance simulation. This movement while surfing replicas dropping the nose for increased speed or for practicing Pearling maneuvers such as a 180 Pearling Pullout Spin, or sinking your tail for stalling or slowing down, as well as to prevent pearling.

3. Walking Chain - a  20' chain that hangs loosely or can sit on the floor to walk and balance on (1" links).

4. Walking Pole - a wooden dowel  (I have several of these) for balance beam type walking (1" diameter, 10 foot long). This can sit on the floor, or, be suspended at each end by ropes.

5. Elevated 2 x 6 x 8' walk between two wooden saw horses.

6. Walking Pole - one of three.

7. Army helmet (as a "post," to stand on) - there are two of these.

8. Army Storage Chest - to walk on edge

9. series of several varied size ammo boxes (about 6 of them) to walk on, some are roughly 4 x 8 x 6 others are 2 x 8 x 4.

10. 2 x 4 balance beam 8' long. Elevated.

11. Walking Bricks - a series of bricks to step on from brick to brick There are 8 bricks, laid out in a Baqua pattern circle that is painted on the floor for Baqua training.

12. Clawfoot Bathtub (cast iron and ceramic coated)  - walk and balance on edges.

13. Two ceramic planters ( for Chinese Soft Rope Penetration vase training) - balancing on edges while taking water out of planters with bucket. The planters start out filled with water, then, every few days, you take a bucket of water out, making the vase more tippy in the process, until eventually, there is no water and simply the vase or planter to stand on the edge on top of it.

14. 11mm static Assault Rappeling Rope hung loose for Rope Dancing - loose rope balance and walking ( 200 foot)

15. Wine Barrels - for standing on and Rolling - there are 3. Watch one of the more recent The Musketeer and you'll see d'Artagnan rolling on top of and balancing on wine barrels - a fun scene and my inspiration for this part of my training.

16. Dresser plank to Wine Barrel - 2 x 6 board for sitting on.

17. Dresser plank to Wine Barrel 2 x 8 board for laying on.

18. Tight Wire Simulator Standing Station - for standing in one spot, both feet on line for as long as possible without loosing balance and while keeping both feet in contact with wire. Currently, about 2 minutes 23 seconds. Up from 37 seconds two days ago, 25 seconds the day before that, 8 seconds a few days before that, and 3 seconds before that.

19. Balance pole for stepping over and under

20. Loose Rope - 25 foot long. Suspended in elongated U shape.

21. Tight Wire Simulator - 10 foot long (made of two portable sections). A third 5 foot portable section is in my bedroom. It can be moved about my home at will, such as to the Surfing Library, by the fireplace, outdoors by the creek or by my Gypsy Vardo, in the living room, to the office,  in the kitchen, and so on.

I'll be adding more stations soon. A tight wire station, a slackline station, a swaying balance pole, manilla ropes of various diameters from 1/2" to 2"and so on.

The type of training I'm doing is a form of Light Body Kung Fu focusing in Chi Gung, for developing perfect body balance for my surfing and, ultimately, high wire walking - I see all of my training as linked together for a common purpose. I can practice on my various pieces of equipment, both in the loft and also outdoors, as well as in my Surfing Library on my NOHO Surf Balance Trainer.

The workout begins and ends on my surfboard, thus, I am freshest before the several hour workout and also, the most fatigued after the workout for another session of surfing or surfing training.

I'll get up some photos soon, of all the various stations, both indoors as well as outdoors.

In addition to training out in the Loft (several hundred yards down the dirt lane), I train in my home constantly on various wood poles, metal pipes, and manilla rope as well as the edges and rails and backs of furniture, which allows me to move  and walk around almost anywhere in my home while balanced on at least one of these.  At first, I did this only while doing chores, now, I travel like this everywhere I go in my home, whether to the kitchen, library, various rooms, bedroom, or even the bathroom. Thus, if I'm not out in the waves surfing, anytime I'm home or in my yard, I'm training balance. It's fun to see how my muscles are changing, shaping, and strengthening as well as my balance becoming more graceful, thus allowing me greater access to moving softly and beautifully for greater Chi Gung applications to my movment, matching, my external body with my internal energy flow.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the  Valley

Friday, October 15, 2010

What Chi Gung (Qigong) Brings to Longboard Surfing

Aloha Tribe,

As most of you know, I love Chi Gung. And, I love longboarding. And, the cool thing is, one, enhances the other.

Chi Gung is a 4000 year old Chinese system of studying the energy of our bodies, as well as the energy that's all around us and in everything. What I've done is I've taken my experience in that art, and, brought it to longboard surfing. And, here's what it does.

With Chi Gung, you specifically and concretely train yourself to develop all of your senses to their absolute  maximum potential. As such, when you surf, say on a longboard, you can actually feel things that you've never felt before. In other words, you'll have new feelings in your body as you surf, which is the whole reason we all began surfing to begin with, and, these feelings, these physical sensations, will grow deeper and more advanced the more Chi Gung that you do.

Basically, in a nutshell, Chi Gung begins as a form of breathing training, where you learn initially to be aware of your breath, to merely notice it at first. Over time, and with many various exercises, you learn to ultimately control your breathing, and, more so, to guide the energy of your breath anywhere in your body, as well as into your surfboard. This makes your surfboard, literally, an extension of yourself.

What you're learning to do is to feel, in your body, all the sensations and experiences that your surfboard encounters, and, to be aware of them, as your own. When you can learn to do this, your surfing will be on a whole new level, for you'll learn to lose yourself in the feeling of surfing over the waves in ways you've never imagined nor experienced.

This, of course, is the feeling of stoke. That awesomely energetic sensation that we so all love. You can learn to experience that deeper and deeper and deeper, with literally no end to what you can learn about yourself and your sensory awareness.

As such, it's truly magical what you can feel as you surf, feelings of pure and total ecstasy and complete abandon where you lose yourself to the beautiful feeling of gliding and carving on your longboard. And, for those of you who are shortboarders, the same thing applies, simply more yang and less yin, merely the opposite side of the same coin.

We all can learn to push our limits, to expand what we can feel and sense. Some of us, many actually, have and do use various drugs to reach such levels, but, with a cool art like Chi Gung, drugs aren't necessary to reach such a high for an art like this is a pure and totally naturaly high through learning to merely embrace your body on levels that most have never imagined.

What Chi Gung brings to Longboard Surfing, is, pure magic. Dreams of sensations that are undreamable. This art offers ways to manifest that which you truly desire in your riding, and  more so, you can learn to do this not only during your ride but as you remember it later, as well as in watching the rides of others.

Imagine watching your favorite pro, and, literally feeling what they are feeling as they do it. That, is what Chi Gung has to offer. We can learn to feel what others feel, and, we can learn to feel what we ourselves truly feel as we surf.

Bodaciously  Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

NOHO Surf Balance Trainer: Silver Surfer Camp Again

Aloha Tribe,

Since I have two pets I am trying to help this weekend, for both are very ill, I will not go surfing, since I need to be home for them. Yet, I will train as much as I can at home. My focus will be on my NOHO Surf Balance Trainer, and, as such, I'll do another Silver Surfer Camp weekend.

My goal, with such a weekend, is to stay on my NOHO Trainer as much as I can, doing everything I'd normally do during a weekend while on my longboard. I'll be using my 9 foot custom shaped, Robert August Wingnut red and white stripped longboard. I love that board. She's so beautiful.

By spending as much time on my longboard as possible, eating, reading, sleeping, stretching, exercising, balancing, and of course, practicing my surfing moves, I believe that I can learn to truly become one with my board and really get to know how she moves, her moods, her rhythms, and what makes her ride as she does. My inspiration, as I've mentioned before, comes from the Stan Lee Marvel Comics Superhero: The Silver Surfer. That character more or less lives on his surfboard as he surfs through the galaxies on adventures. And, while that is just a comic book of course, the idea of training as a surfer that way, to me, makes a lot of sense. The more we do any skill, the better we become at is. And, for most of us, our surfing rides typically last perhaps 8 to 20 seconds per ride, maybe? Sometimes only a few rides a day, sometimes, 25 or more in a couple of hours. Whatevers. The point is, regardless of how much you can ride, it's still far less than what, say, a skateboarder can since the sidewalk is always there with no Lineup and no Paddle Out.

Most of my time, of course, will be spent with my sick chickens, but, when I can, to build my own energy, hope, and faith, I'll train on my longboard. And, my Soft Rope and slackrope and tight wire, of course.

I'm stoked.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Riding Your Hips

Aloha Tribe,

Most of us learn to steer with our eyes, our hands, our arms, our shoulders, and THEN, our waists. We learn to steer and control our boards from the top down. Sure, our feet apply pressure, but we are taught as well as learn through experience, that it is our shoulders and up that do a lot of work.

Perhaps, and, this is just a guess, but maybe it's because so many surfers have been guys and guys are often stronger in the shoulders and arms than girls, whereas girls are heavier and more balanced in the hips.

The thing is, it would seem that all of us could benefit from learning to use our hips a bit more, A subtle shift forwards or backwards, left or right might be all that is needed, especially on a longboard, to glide smoothly into long romantic arching turns filled with grace, beauty, style, and oh that wonderful flowing feeling that all of us so love.

One of the things is, it seems, is that many of us learn from looking at the stars and legends, and, we try to copy them. The thing is, we need to take into consideration who we ourselves our, and, as such, to find our own paths to true surfing stoke.

Each of us has different strengths and balance and grace, as well as experience on the water, and, all of that and a hundred other things need to be taken into consideration.

Sure, the old-school way was to watch our heroes surf, or, to look at photos of them in the magazines, then, to try to copy what we've seen. Today, of course, it's so much easier with dvds that can freeze frame any position and muscle contraction. You literally can see what muscles are pushing on a board, how or where a person's balance lies, and by watching again and again, we can even learn to anticipate what a surfer will do or more so, what a wave will do. This last fact, is truly an awesome way to learn about the water because you can study the structure of a wave, frame by frame, and watch as it rises and falls and each ripple upon its surface as it happens. Then, going back a frame or two, you can learn to predict what will happen on the wave, since, you've already seen the future by previous viewing. In this way, one can learn truly magical elements of waves and as such, the language of the swell and sea.

So, what does all of that have to do with our hips, you might be asking? Well, loads. You see, when you focus on something, like a slight shift of weight due to hip position, you're learning to read your body and her sense of balance, to play with it, to truly understand the exact and critical point to the millimeter of where you balance shifts. It is the same, when reading the waves.

Now sure, I know that most of us don't bother with such seemingly trivial irrelevance, yet, for some, such experimentation is fun, I clearly, as you have read, fall into the latter category. For me, it's all about seeing what I can do. Pushing a bit more, trying something new and creative, spur the moment, in an instant of spontaneous imagination. I find such experiences truly, totally, bodaciously thrilling.

The thing is, the more we practice, the more we experiment, the more we play (and that's the important one), the freer we are in our surfing and thus, in expressing ourselves as we surf, more so, when we truly surf free, we find that we lose ourselves to the wave, we simply become water energy ourselves, riding, flowing, in harmony, with no sense of self, for, in such moments, we are the sea, both within our bodies and how all of the fluid in our body adapts to what we are doing but also, on the wave we surf.

It's fun to ride with your hips. It loosens up your waist, helps with overall body flexibility, and, well, it just feels awesomely awesome, so much so, it makes a girl just want to yell from pure ecstasy.

Ride loose, Tribe, flow free, and simply be the wave.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Thursday, October 14, 2010

What to Do in Closed Out Waves

Aloha Tribe,

On days when it's Closed Out, and the Peak breaks all along the wave at once, most of us look at it, assuming we even went to the beach that day, sigh, and promptly leave. What with computers today, some of us don't even bother to head to the beach. It saddens me for the old days. Yet, I wonder, if or when we do simply leave or not bother even going, how many of us have momentarily lost touch with our inner child, that spirit within us who remembers our first ride, who embraces the whole reason we got into surfing in the first place. It's so easy, in today's modern world, to become complacent.


The thing is, in the wilds where I live, if I  lived that way, that is, not hitting the swells on "lousy days", I'd end up never being able to surf. So, what I've found helps me at least is to  love what I do have, when I  have it, where I am,, and, simply learn to do whatever it is you can in such conditions, be it Closed Out waves, too strong of wind, whipping flesh tearing rain, sleet, blinding snow, hail, or even, during the Flats. The truly awesome thing is, we can all do this.

The surf is loaded with opportunities for play and experimentation and study and simply learning. And, personally, as a Watergirl, it's my job to learn it all. I was told by my surf and Watergirl Mentor, DD (Darrick Doerner), that he's probably watched 10,000 hours of watching and studying the sea. Now of course, naturally, he didn't literally count every time, but in Chinese culture, for example, the use of 10,000 simply means, a very much lot or uncountable, so, I think that's what he meant, to study the sea, to surf in it, to explore it, watch it, learn from it, and learn all it has to offer every moment of every chance that you have. The sea, to a surfer, is life. It is, our everything.

When the sea is Closed Out, that's the time for us to return to the Basics. Perhaps we'll spend some time on the shore, watching the rhythm of the thrashing waves. Squeezing the cool sand beneath our toes. Feeling the breeze against our skin. Smelling the salt air. Oddly enough, each of these things increases our sensory awareness, and, as such, increases our ability to experience more physical sensations when we do surf. In other words, the more that we learn to truly feel and be fully aware of all of our senses, the more stoke we can feel when we do drop down the Face of a beautiful wave. There's so much to study and be aware of, so much to notice with our senses. Sure, you can see waves approach, but, can you feel them? Go ahead, try it, stand or sit on the beach and close your eyes and simply feel the pressure of the sea as it rises towards you. You'll feel an air cushion push against you with each wave. Interestingly enough, if practiced long enough, such sensitivity can be used when you're out in the Line Up and you can sense when a big swell is coming, even without seeing it. That was but one example of what can be done.

Another thing to do is to simply watch anybody who happens to be out when we might be considering not going, in mere moments, their fun will embrace us and we'll find ourselves running with our board in hand to the next wave. It's a cool feeling, to feel the stoke of others.  For me, as two of my pets fight for their lives this very moment, I am learning to truly dance in the moment,  to live now. To fully embrace what I have this instant. I am doing all I can for my two chickens, Sunshine and Lola. And, I pray that they can survive the day and night and live long beautiful happy surfer chicken lives.  Their chicken coop, by the way, is decorated as a Surf Shack, with two paintings of surfing chickens, and surf memorabilia such as tiki cups and statues, jars of exotic cigars from around the world, an old checker board, and so on. I pray the two of my chickens who are sick can heal today. The third, Gwenny seems to be doing great!!! I'm trying to take my love of surfing and infusing my body with it as I pet them and comfort them today, filling them with love and hope and beautiful dreams, as well as beautiful memories. Please, any of you out there, if you have a prayer for a special pet, please send it along a wave today. Thanks, and love to you all.  Aloha.

Let's all, surf, this moment. And, love. And Live.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Overheads for the Weekend: Glassy in the Mornings, Closed Out the Rest of the Day - Shortish Periods

Aloha Tribe,

We have some nice Overheads for the weekend coming up. Today too, for that matter. Super in the morning, probably even Glassy, then, Closed Out by the afternoon and dusk, so those will be awesome too. The Periods will be moderately short, about 9 seconds. A bit easier than the sometimes 4 to 6 seconds we often get.

It's truly amazing how balance training helps your surfing. It lifts you to whole new levels for experiementing with new moves and exploring old ones you thought you knew. I highly recommend learning to walk on Soft Ropes, Slacklines, and Tight Wires. And, don't worry about the height, that's not too important, though, it does have some applications in that sitting on top of a Double Overhead far Inside, you'll appreciate your sense of height confidence you can gain from a rope or wire as you look straight down the face for the possible Acid Drop of a life. Late Drops are fun. Just remember to Angle, if you like such things, or, learn to Submarine or do a Pearling 180 Spin, whatevers. The point is, play, have fun, and experiment and always push your limits.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Wednesday, October 13, 2010

NOHO Surf Balance Trainer with Bells, Bells on Soft Rope and Slackline as well as Pickpocketing Mannequin Dummy

Aloha Tribe

I was reading that there was a tightrope walker who trained when he was little by having bells put on his line by his father. That made me smile, because, as a pickpocket, I have a mannequin at home that I have loaded with bells and traps of all kinds in order to develop the soft touch of the Master Cannon.


That gave me the idea to put bells on my various soft ropes, slacklines, and tightwires. Now, the reason the young wire walker had bells on his was apparently so that his father would know that he was not only working the line, but also that he was safe. If the bells tinkled, that meant he was okay.


I, on the other hand, do the exact opposite with my pickpocketing mannequin. I try to make none of the traps spring nor none of the bells to ring.


So, my idea with my various walking lines is to do the same thing, string them with bells, then, work until I can walk anything without any bells ringing.


This then made me think of my NOHO Surf Balance Trainer. I have a wonderful net that I use for Retarius Gladitor type training (I love martial arts), and I can lay that over my NOHO Surf Balance Trainer and string the net with Christmas jingle bells of all sizes, shapes, and types. Then, as I practice my longboard surfing skills on my NOHO, the game will be, just like with my soft rope and my pickpocket dummy, to not make any noise. If I do, I lose and have to do the drill again. It makes the training a game, in a sense, where you have a very distinct goal to work for, namely perfect softness, gracefullness, and smoothness, which, is what I strive for in all of the various arts that I practice. For, I dream of beauty in each of these arts.


Bodaciously Stoked,


Lily of the Valley

Tuesday, October 12, 2010

Soft Rope Home Chores: Remo Williams style (movie)

Aloha Tribe,

I've set up various ropes, poles, logs, and tight wires in my home, to get from place to place, along with walking on tips and edges of furniture such as on their backs and chair arms and such, while I do my daily home chores as well as between training sessions, thus, I'm constantly training. Even while watching tv, mostly dvds about surfing, slacklining, high wire walking, and, of course, Remo Williams for the training scenes, I stand and walk on my tight wire training simulator.

My inspiration for this type of training comes from one of my favorite movies, Remo Williams, which, by the way, finally is out on dvd. The training sequences in the movie - which maybe run an hour perhaps, (always my favorite part of any movie) truly are not only really fun, but, also wildly creative  and, they work. That's the cool part. Well, that is to say, if you put in the time every day. That's the secret to surfing and soft rope  aka rope dancing it funambulist terminology, as well as low wire and high wire training, you must train daily, more so, you must be truly passionate about what you're doing if you hope to reach your potential.

So, my  home now looks sort of like Remo's warehouse did in that movie. At the moment, I was just washing and drying dishes and putting them away, all the while balancing on one of my manilla ropes strung across my kitchen, while walking about the kitchen on the rope.

I want to explore Italian hemp rope. It is the strongest type of hemp rope in the world. I truly love walking on hemp. I feel like I blend with it, harmonize with it, like it is a natural product for me to work with. It's kind of like the solid wood surfboard I'm making out in the barn, old school, they way things were done. The board, by the way, is coming along. I have it glued. Next, the shaping and sanding.

In the Chinese style of Single Rope Rope Penestrating Arts", you use a loosely hung rope, manilla, seems to be an excellent choice. Start with a larger diameter, like 2 inches, and work down to 1 1/2", 1", and perhaps possibly even 3/4".

This is a called a Shaolin Soft Rope Art,

Also from China, in the Xinjiang region in the NW, the type of rope that appears to be walked on looks like 1 inch hemp rope (China is a major producer of hemp). The art here is called Dawaz, which is a Uygur word for tightrope walker. The art of walking a rope, from here, is over a 1000 years old.

Some other words for a tightrope walker are Voleur, Ascensioniste, and Funambule. These words are talked about in Philippe Petit's excellent book On The High Wire. Also from Philippe's book, he gives the definitions of rope walking, namely,

1. Rope Dancer - one who walks, dances or performs on a low hung rope, a few meters above the ground. The rope can be tight or slack or even be loose. A modern slackliner would fit into this category.

2. Low  Wire Artist - Someone who walks on a wire made of some sort of metal that is tightly hung only a few meters high.

3. High Wire Artist - A person who walks a very tightly strung wire, at height over 30 feet. He also uses a balancing pole for balance.

For surfing practice, any of these styles of walking would work, of course, though I suspect that most people would probably stick with Rope Dancing, specifically slacklining, typically probably 3 to 7 feet or so high, I'd imagine.

Naturally, of course, there is a radically different feel to walking something loose vs. slack. vs. tight. Each, offers it's challenges.

As a person interested in balancing arts, thus, as an Equilibrist, it's great to learn it all, and, all at once.

So, I include solid stationary objects like rocks, branches, limbs, roots, curbs, fences, truck beds, rooftops, and so on in my play and experimentation. Once I get this down, just as with surfing where I'm drawn to big waves, I am drawn to the high wire. Yet, I love the feel of manilla, and, I dream of hemp rope. So, we'll have to see how this all plays out over time. The thing is, both have traditional and historical ties to rope walking. Hemp, comes from the cannabis plant family (cannabis sativa), while manilla comes from a type of banana plant called abaca. Manilla, while called hemp today by most people, is also about 20% stronger than hemp, it is cheaper than hemp, and, it is much easier to find than hemp rope of equal size, especially when you're looking for the larger sizes like 2 inches in diameter or so. That being said, there are some places on the web that have 1 1/2 hemp rope or about 38 mm diameter. Now then, Italian hemp rope, well, that's a quest, it seems. And, a worthy one. Perhaps someone can help me? I'm looking for somewhere between an 1 1/2 (38mm) and 2 inches (about 50 mm diameter hemp rope) for my walking, and thus, my surfing training.  One of the challenges, it seems, with acquiring hemp rope, is that the U.S. Government  under the Drug Encorcement Administration, and the Controlled Substance Act has a Zero Tolerance for hemp even as merely a rope for rope walkers, and does not seem to differentiate the various types of hemp or Cannabis. Interestingly enough, hemp rope because less popular than manilla because hemp required tarring when used at sea on ships, whereas manilla did not. Will my dreams of having and walking an Italian hemp rope materialize? Time will tell. But, in the meantime, I have my hemp manilla rope.


Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Balance Endurance: Getting ready for 8 mile railroad track walk

Aloha Tribe,

I have a non-operating (most of the time) railroad track near my home. I want to increase my balance skills endurance, so, I've been training myself to walk on the tracks from one small town to the next a distance of 4 miles, and then back again to where I started, for a total of 8 miles.

When I first started walking on railroad tracks, I'd fall off now and again and have to momentarily place one or the other foot down. But, as I've been practicing on various diameter ropes, pipes, tree roots, bridge railings, fences, tree branches, rocks (of all sizes and shapes), and wires, ranging from about a 1/2 inch to 2 inches in diameter, I found that my railroad track walking balance has greatly improved, as has my endurance and concentration to stay on the tracks without falling.

One of my goals is to always look ahead as far as possible. There is a tendency, to watch ones feet or near the feet, but, by looking out, a distance, it aids surfing in that to surf well, you need to watch the wave and the water ahead of you, thus, this type of training greatly benefits and develops this skill.

It's taken a bit of focus and a lot of daily training night and day, but I'm finally starting to notice some progress in my slacklining (where the line can sway side to side), tight wire walking (where there is no swaying), and pole walking, where the pole can sway side to side as well as forwards and backwards (this one is the hardest for me so far).

I'm finding that the more I walk, the more I yearn to walk. And so, training leads to visualizing training, which leads to more training in an endless spiral of mental and physical workouts.

At this point, I'm starting to play with my body a bit, while balanced. I'll shift a hip here or there. Or tense a particular muscle to see what happens, and, how to recover from it. And, I'm rigid with my diet, trying to get as lean and ripped as possible.

Slowly, things are starting to pay off, though, I am but at the very beginning of my journey. Naturally, I want to take all that I learn on the ropes and wires, limbs and rocks, rooftops and rails, and bring it to my surfing. I had not mentioned rooftops yet, walking the peaks fascinates me as an art form.

This art is endless in its depth, for, by using Chi Gung as the root behind it all, there are unimagineable experiences to explore.

Much of my training is based on the  Shaolin martial arts and chi systems. As such, I have turned my home and yard into what looks like the training sequences from old Chinese Martial Arts movies.

I am working night and day on this, even at night, doing drills like vision training with candles, as well as vision training during the day of still objects and also moving ones. Such visual training greatly enhances a surfers abilities in reading the waves while riding them, as well as in spotting distant waves while in the line up.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Sunday, October 10, 2010

Soft Rope Penetration Walking: 2", 1" 1/2" Manilla Rope and Tight Wire

Aloha Tribe,

I've been doing a lot of Soft Rope Penetration Chi Gung and tightwire walking and last night I noticed my Tibialis Anterior, the muscle that goes over the shin bone and down to the big toe, needed some strengthening, due to my lifelong living barefoot and if flip flops almost totally.

In any event, I spent Saturday evening, plus most of the night, and early this morning working on these muscles, and, now, there has been some truly beautiful improvements in my muscle control and balance. I felt a steadienss I've not previously had on both my 2 inch maniila rope and also my 1 inch manilla rope as well as my tight wire. I feel, stoked, blessed, and, stunned.

This morning, due to uncountable hours of training last night, I was a bit stiff for a few minutes when I first awoke, but Chi Gung instantly took care of that.

So, when I did my balance training today for my surfing, well, I felt, really solid. And, happy.

This is so exciting. I'm so happy I literally twirled. A bit of Tibialist Anterior work, some Chi Gung, and wham, a new rope walking girl!!! I can so hardly wait until tomorrow to see what tomorrow brings.

Oh, and, as for the surf today, instead of the predicted Triple Overhead, it was Double Overhead, still Closed Out, as predicted, but that's what surfing is like here. So, no worries. After all, surf is surf and waves stoke, no matter the conditions. At least I can dream of the Triple and higher Overheads waves to come. And, come they will. Oh yes.  I'm so stoked.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Saturday, October 9, 2010

The Forgotten Balance Muscle: Surfing, Slacklining, Soft Rope Walking, Chinese Single Bamboo Pole Drifting, Log Rolling

Aloha Tribe,

I've been training my balance a lot lately, refining it, tweaking it, kicking in the ass to truly hone it to perfection. And, in the process, I've been pondering the ever so slight leg wobble. Now, well, I had figured it was simply my knees needing strengthening or my hamstrings, or whatevers. And, I simply continued doing the above Sports and Arts and noticing daily improvments and even session improvements.

Yet today, for whatever reason, at a grocery store of all places, I happened to look down at my flip flopped feet (I almost never wear shoes, and, am barefoot whenever I can be). My attention was caught by the ever so minute tremble of the muscle that lies over the shin, crosses across the foot from the outside of the leg to the inside of the leg, and, running to the top of the big toe. Viola, the Tibialis Anterior.

As it turns out, this is THE muscle known for balance. And, if you happen to live your life barefoot like I have for a huge majority of my life, walking on the ball of my foot rather than the heel, then, the muscles that is antagonistic to this, the Tibialis Posterior (on the back side) would be disproportionately stronger.

Hey, I"m  not talking a major difference in strength between the two, but, there is enough of a difference in me for this wobble I've mentioned. And, seeking balance perfection, I now know what to do.

Increase my walking in a straight line using tight wire walking, Soft Rope Walking, and slacklining, as well as walking along curbs, cracks, and any other line I happen to find, always keeping both feet on the line, one at a time,  beyond the 6 hours a day I'm currently doing them, and, of course, in surfing, focus on my backside turns more than frontside turns. In a backside turn, you pressure down with your heel, which, is the move needed to strengthen this muscle.

It will be interesting to see how this muscles strengthens with my increased efforts and more so, deeper awareness.

Naturally, I'll also be using Chi Gung to strengthen the Tibialis Anterior, namely by guiding Chi using a combination of Wai Chi and Nei Chi exercises,  done at an extremely slow Tai Chi speed, adding to the fun by listening to hippy style 60's music for the rhythmic flow.

Slowly, one by one, I'm pinning down these weak muscles, like the psoas the other day, and, adding them to my repetoire of flexing workouts.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Friday, October 8, 2010

The Secret to Surfing Balance

Aloha Tribe,

I've been thinking a lot about balance lately. Training night and day, sometimes, even sleeping an hour or two here or there. And, as I've been exploring what's happening inside my bodies muscles, I've also been following my chi flow.

And, I found a secret. At least, for me. And, ultimately, that's really all that any of us can do, namely, find what works for us.

I mentioned earlier that I built a Tight Wire Trainer for tighrope walking today, and, I've spent countless hours on it today and this evening.

I've been studying my balance, on my new training equipment.

And I found that the secret seems to be flexing or tightening your psoas major and also your iliacus muscles. These are located on the front of your hips, sort of on the outside front actually.

By flexing these muscles, as well as flowing chi into them, I found that my balance on my tight wire trainer instantly improved 100%.

The first time I did it, I simply flexed the muscles, that is to say, I merely noticed that they were flexed as I walked on the thin steel pole. But, once I realized what muscles were involved, I was immediately able to use Nei Dan Chi Gung to mentally guide my energy or chi through those muscles.

In the field of tighrope or tightwire walking, the masters of the art say that one needs to flatten out the arch of the lower back. There are numerous ways to do this, the simplest being a game called Trap the Mouse. In it, you lay on the floor and have a friend place their hand under the arch of your back, and, at their chosing, they try to draw their hand away, while you try to straighten out your back and trap their hand. It's a fun game. Of course, it can be done alone, standing against a wall, for example.

In any event, the masters of the high wire say that the key to balance is in this movement. Thus, hip flexion, in other words, lifting your knee towards your chest.

Now, as it relates to balance, at least for me, the mere slightest energy or chi flow into the muscle, without actually flexing it, is enough to alter my bodies balance, thus, enabling me to remain casually standing balanced upon my tightwire.

Transferring this idea to surfing, such flexing of these muscles is enough to allow one to play with their balance upon their board. This then frees up the dramatic and even extreme body movements of shifing your entire weight in any given direction.

Granted, this might not work for most, but, I wanted to share it since it seems to be working for me. It was a truly wildly fun discovery tonight, and, I'm looking forward to an evening of exploration regarding degrees of tension, chi flow direction, chi density, chi temperature, chi movement patterns such as spiraliing, circling, zigzagging, or going straight, and so on.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Portable Home Made Tight Wire Trainer (Tightrope Walking) for Surfing Training

Aloha Tribe,

Today I made a fun piece of training equipment. I built a Tight Wire Trainer for practicing Tightrope Walking.

I got...

1. Two sections of 5 foot long 1 inch diameter steel pipe (to walk on)

2. Four  Tee sections (like a letter T) - used to connect the walking pipe to the base and the base to the legs

3.  Four one foot sections of 1 inch diameter steel pipe (as legs)

and, the following for making various height adjustments...

4. Two two inch connection sections of steel pipe

5. Two 4 inch connection sections of steel pipe

6. Two 6 inch connection sections of steel pipe

7. Two one foot connection sections of steel pipe

Everything  simply screws together in a matter of minutes, so I can take this anywhere such as parks, friends homes, the beach, wherevers. For the most part, it sits on the floor in the Surfing Room of my home so that I can use it anytime day or night.

When I'm not out surfing of course, I've been using a variety of slacklines, slack ropes or soft ropes, swinging poles, and similar things for practicing outdoors (in my yard, by the creek, by the river, in the mountains, in parks, at the beach, and anyplace else I might want to work on my balance. I always, at the very least, have a 50 foot section of 1/2 inch manilla rope in my orange VW Bug wherever I go, so, I'm always able to set up a Soft Rope in a moments notice for training my surfing balance.

But, with this new piece of equipment tonight, I don't have to be concerned about the rain or snow or ice. Granted, the ropes and such can still be set up in them, but, well, it's nice when the weather is intense, to practice inside by a nice warm fire. And, since I live in the middle of the woods, in a swamp, there's mountain lions, bears, bobcats, and similar animals prowling my property all the time, so training inside is a bit safer when it's dark.

One of my favorite places to train is out in the loft above the garage, with a single candle illuminating the room. The double wide barn loft doors swung wide 20 feet above the ground to the open air,

I'm happy with my Tight Wire Trainer. It'll be a great way to practice tightrope walking. Once I get a real wire and all of the rigging, of course, that will be awesomely fun too.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Fish Taco Surfer's Quest: The Beginning...

Aloha Tribe,

It just occurred to me, wouldn't be awesomely fun to go on a Fish Taco Surfer's Quest. You know, find the best Fish Tacos and see which breaks they are at. It would make for some truly yummy research and totally bodacious waves, not to mention great sessions Talking Story at each break of past fish tacos and the best rides.

Most surfer's, I would imagine, would find the breaks first, then, hunt out the fish tacos. I was thinking it would be fun to do it the other way around. Find the best fish tacos, and then, the breaks. That way, the fish tacos become the true reason for some of the most memorable surfing rides of ones dreams.

So, for me, the quest goes back to the north coast of Kauai. They have incredibly killer fish tacos out there, truly worth a flight to the Islands for the fish tacos alone, let alone riding Middles, which is my favorite break on Hanalei Bay. For me, a break isn't about the perfect wave or the perfect size or who thinks what about this break or that break, but instead, it's all about the memories and the feelings that I still have to this moment. Just thinking of my rides at Middles right now, dreaming of the perfect fish taco afterwards following the perfect ride (a time stopped Acid Drop leading to Spinning Pearl into a Reverse 180, followed by a spontaneously modified Hawaiian Pull Out still has me smiling, with twinkling blue eyes and a rumbling tummy.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Developing Surfer's Leg and Bun Muscles from Soft Rope Chi Gung Training

Aloha Tribe,

Not only is being a surfer just the greatest lifestyle on Earth, but, looking like a surfer is kind of cool too. Naturally, we develop surfer's bodies from surfing. But, there are additional things one can do, if, you happen to want to further the look of the muscles that really count.

In surfing, balance, of course, is key. And, strong balance comes from strong legs and buns of steel. So, here's one fun way to not only work on balance as a supplemental training to your surfing program, but also to get some way totally cut muscles.

The muscles I'm specifically talking about are really  being developed on me from my intensive Soft Rope Chi Gung training.

These are the muscles that are really taking some beautiful shape.

On the inside of the legs, to the side of the calf, is the medial side of the Soleus. I've never seen it developed in anybody else, so I think its pretty awesome.  And, on the outside of the hip is the Gluteus Medius. The Gluteus Medius is particularly exercised in walking tightropes, slacklining, slack ropes, and all movements involving the outside of the hips, giving really beautifully rounded muscles in the hips.

In addition, the Gluteus Maximus (the buns), the Rectus Femoris, Vastus Medialus, Vastus Lateralis, and Biceps Femoris , and the Gastrocnemus, are all truly worked because of the squatting of the legs and the focusing the weight on your rear foot. In surfing, it's the rear foot that does most of the work, while the front foot more or less mostly steers.

As I practice my balancing, I'm trying to keep my arms relaxed, this, balancing for Soft Rope Chi Gung using my hips, legs, and feet.

The feet, by the way, are the other area that are incredibly worked out while while slackling and slack roping. Developing these muscles provides truly unique ways to experience your board beneath your feet as your surf, giving you power you've never even imagined with all parts of the underside of your foot and toes.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Da Mo (Buddha) Chi Gung Style Surfing the Yangtze River Over a Thousand Years Ago

Aloha Tribe,

In 520 AD, a surfer appeared. The person was Da Mo, also known as Buddha. One day he was at the Yangtze River and he had to cross it. He borrowed a reed from an older woman, stepped on the reed with both feet, and floated into the river. Then, he called forth the wind, which blew him across.

That is a common story and the subject of numerous paintings in China.

Da Mo taught a special type of Chi Gung (Qigong), of which one branch of it was Duckweed Drifting On Water, a form of Light Body Chi Gung or Kung Fu.

There are not too many more details than this, yet, if one were to contemplate the style, some elements of the story and some of the ways to achieve them are indeed possible. Naturally, personally, I believe the whole story.

First, the Yangtze River sometimes grows huge colonies of a plant called Duck Weed. This is a sort of small leaved plant that covers the surface of the water. There are also, by the way, huge groves of Moso  Bamboo along the Yangtze River.

Now then, Da Mo was described as borrowing a reed. Well, bamboo could be thought of as a reed, in fact, there even is a species of bamboo called Reed Bamboo (Oclandra Stridula). Da Mo was said to have taught Duckweed Drifting. This is the art I've been sharing a bit of lately. It involves ways to make the body sensitive enough to move lightly and gracefully. This is done through sequential exercises, beginning with strengthening the legs and hips through walking hills with a heavily  weighted sack on your back and is followed with the various exercises I talked about before, leading up to Soft  Rope Walking, which involves walking on a slack tight rope. Now then, I've also talked lately about Chinese Single Bamboo Pole Drifting where you learn to stand on a single bamboo pole and paddle or push yourself across water using a second smaller bamboo pole.

It is possible, for someone skilled in the art of Light Body Kung Fu to learn to move more lightly as they gain mastery of their art. As such, one could, with huge amounts of practice,  learn to ride a smaller and smaller Bamboo Drifting pole just as lumberjacks learn to roll smaller logs (where they begin with a 12 foot long, 15 inch diameter log, then move to a 14 inch, then a 13 inch, a 12 inch, and finally an 11 inch log). The point is, as you get more skilled, you can learn to ride smaller logs, or, in this case, smaller bamboo poles.

On top of this, add some Duckweed into the river and you could ride on an even smaller pole since the Duckweed would  had bouyancy to the pole.

So, about the wind, it is a Chi Gung method that is know by some masters. Basically, it involves a form of Nei  Gung or mental Chi Gung ability, where you focus your energy using your mind.  In a case like this, you need to have mastered both projecting and absorbing chi. More so, you need to do this with extreme focus. By focusing on absorbing chi from a distance, into the palm of your hand, lets say your left hand, you can create a sort of void around you that needs to be filled with yang energy, thus, wind comes. This wind will flow toward your palm, and, can be directed out of your other palm in the opposite direction.  Sure, this sounds seemingly impossible, yet, someone like the Buddha could clearly do this.

The key to it is to absorb chi into your palm from a large geographical area. This involves also the ability to spiral chi or energy. This same method of calling the wind, by the way, can also call waves for surfing.

Using these methods, it is possible that someone, truly gifted in these kinds of arts could, in theory, ride on a rather smallish reed of some sort and be blown across a river by the wind.

Frustratingly,  Western Science tends to see things differently, and the arts and sciences of the East are only just barely beginning to be explored. The future is truly thrilling, for along with such knowledge comes whole new ways of looking at surfing, in other words, truly innovative techniques await our discovery.

The cool part of this story is that, at the very least, it provides a fun and interesting way to imagine how such an event could happen.

So, given all of this, it truly inspires me to continue my explorations into the Light Body Kung Fu style of  Duckweed Drifting On Water as well as Chinese Single Bamboo Pole Drifting.

This weekend, possibly today even, I'll bring my moso bamboo pole to the river to see how it floats and holds my weight. I only have to apply the coconut oil to finish the waterproofing stage, then it will be ready. I just took the excess mud and ash off  once the pole dries in the sun, then I'll apply the coconut oil. If I make it to the river today, while there,  I'll keep my eyes out for a lumberjack type log for practicing log rolling on as well. Surfing the river sounds truly fun, and, wildly Watergirl.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Thursday, October 7, 2010

Dú Zhú Piǎo- Chinese Single Bamboo Pole Drifting, Suspended Pole Balancing, and Birling: Ancient Chinese and American Timber versions of Surfing

Aloha Tribe,

Today, I waterproofed my Chinese Single Bamboo Pole Drifting (Dú Zhú Piǎo) pole using Hawaiian wood surfboard methods.

The poles used in this art, by the way, for the Chinese Single Bamboo Pole Drifting have a length that is typically between about 5 - 9 inches in diameter (averaging 6 to 6 1/3 inches diameter) and 12 to 24 foot long, depending upon your body weight and how you want to ride the pole, whether you like it fully submerged, partially submerged, or completely floating on top of the water when you are on it.

I mixed up a combination of ashes (from various trees, tree saps,  and nuts) with mud, and I covered the pole. Now, I am lettiing it dry. Tomorrow, I'll apply coconut oil over the entire pole. Then, every time I surf on it, I'll apply more coconut oil after each session.

I spent most of my day practiced balancing on my Suspended Pole from the Treading on Soft Rope program I am studying. It is, tremendously more difficult than balancing on a slackline because the movements are so much more dynamic with incredibly wide swaying motions. But, I'll get the knack of it eventually with enough training and practice.

I also inquired about log rolling (Birling), from a log rolling school and supply shop. I so hope to hear back from them soon. I figured, that what with me living in the NW, it seemed like a sport that a Watergirl should be familiar with, after all, it certainly will enhance my surfing awareness, timing, rhythm, and balance, along with speed and strength.

Tomorrow, I plan to put the coconut oil on the Chinese Single Bamboo Pole Drifting pole, after the mud and ashes are fully dried, and then, I'll take it down to the river for a bit of a surf. It should be interesting to see what happens, and, I'm truly rather stoked about the whole thing. Oh, and, while I'm down at the river, I'll keep my eyes out for a log for birling. I read about the dimensions today. Something about 12 foot long and roughly 12 inches in diameter should do the trick, of course, since my goal with the birling log is merely for my own balance practice, I won't be having a second person on the log like you would with the sport of log rolling, thus, a 12 foot long 6 or 7 inch diameter log, should, in theory, work fine. I'll find out. Regardless, it'll be fun to ride the Chinese Single Bamboo Pole Drifting pole in the river and local lakes, as well as to find a log and try it in the wilder parts of the river - sort of river surfing logger style, tipping my red wool tuque hat to logging tradition and history, winter is on its way, after all.


Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Triple Overheads Coming This Weekend

Aloha Tribe,

So, if all goes well, we'll have some beautiful triple overheads this weekend. Sure, they be closed out, but, well, that just goes with the territory. Here, you learn to play in such surf.

It'll be a great weekend for surfing as well as rough ocean swimming. In fact, some Coastal Swimming will also be awesome. Coastal Swimming is when you swim as close as possible to extreme environmental features such as rocks, jetties, piers, and such. It offers tremendous challenge because precise swimming is required. It is, of course, an extreme sport and conditioning tool, practiced, by few. In fact, while I am sure there are tons more, personally, I only know of three who do it. Myself, and two surfing legends on the North Shore.

This will be a great weekend to bring my Swiss Ball to the sea. Basically, it's an air filled ball, about 3 foot in diameter. You swim out with it into the largest swells you can find, and, the game is that you have to hold onto the ball at all times. It's an elite form of big wave surfing training, taught to me big wave surfing legend, my Surfing and Watergirl mentor,  Darrick Doerner (DD). If you drop the ball, you lose. That's how the game is played. The idea is that the huge air filled ball will float and bounce in the waves, and thus, truly send you flying (while maintaining your grip on the ball at all times - that's the challenge of it), so that you actually end up flying through the air much further, higher, and more aggressively, than if you were swimming or surfing. As such, it teaches you how to fall safely while truly getting trounced in monster waves.

I love swimming in rough seas, seeing it, as my backyard, in a sense. My goal is to truly  learn to feel at home in the highest, wildest seas possible in order to use such training for Rescue Swimming work.

I hope all works out this weekend as it currently looks, and, with my plans. It'll be awesome to stretch the muscles a bit.

Assuming I can indeed go, I'll bring my monofin and Rocket fins also to further expand and develop my Watergirl training.

While the waves don't sound like they'll be much for graceful mirrored face riding, they will be super for whitewater practice, which, I've always seen as an art in itself, that few truly love. It seems we all tend to look for those mystical perfect waves, and, yet, the waves are as they are, so why not learn to embrace and play in everything.

Quite frankly, from a surfing perspective, the waves here in the wilds rather suck, but, it is what it is, and thus, one simply learns to love it. So, when it comes down to it, we all have what we have, and, making the best of it is all we can do. When we release ourselves to this, we can find art in anything.

Bodaciously  Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Wednesday, October 6, 2010

Ancient Chinese Rope Walking for Surfing, Slackrope Walking, Slacklining, and Balance Training

Aloha Tribe,

I'm studying an ancient Chinese rope walking form of Kung Fu, to improve my surfing. The art is called Treading on Soft Rope. Rope Walking is an art that goes back about 2000 years to the Han Dynasty.

It has several phases to the training.


                   Treading On Soft Rope.

This art is an internal art, like Tai Chi, Baqua, Hsing-Yi, or Liuhebafa (all of which I've studied), and, is rooted in Chi Gung, also spelled Qigong.

There are several phases to this ancient and traditional style of Kung Fu.

Phase 1. You wear a heavy backpack or gunny sack and run over uneven ground with holes and bumps and such. This art is a form of Rock Running. It teaches one to pay extreme attention to detail for foot placement and balance.

Phase 2. Suspended Pole Walking. You take a bamboo pole, mine is 12 foot long and 2 inches in diameter, and suspend it at each end from two trees, so that it swings, kind of like a giant long swingset, in a way. You walk on this suspended pole. The idea is that you train on it until the pole does NOT sway at all.

Phase 2 part a. Vat Walking. You get a large vat or barrel, mine is an old wine barrel, and you traditionally  set 7 of them up , currently, I only have 3. You more or less  place them within stepping disance of each other, and you fill them with water or whatever. Then, you walk on top of the barrels on their edges, since, they have no tops on them. Every day or so you take a bucket of water out of each barrel which makes them, over time, lighter, and thus, more tippy. With 7 barrels, or even 3 for that matter, you can have all kinds of walking patterns of circles, clockwise, counterclockwise, semi-circles, and so on.

    part b. Leave No Footprints On Snow. You get a pile of very loose sand, about a foot deep, or, you do this at the beach, and, you cover the area with leaves. Then, you walk on top of the single layer of leaves with the idea of leaving NO footprints in the sand. I have a nice sand pile about 20 foot square outside next to my Gypsy Vardo - a 19th century styled  Gypsy horse drawn wagon that I built, that one can live in.

     part c. Rope Running. You tie a 31.8 foot rope around yourself and let it drag out behind you and train yourself to sprint, like a sprinter, until you can run with the rope completely floating  in the air and totally straight out behind you as you run.

Phase 3. You take two bamboo stakes, and pound them into the ground. My takes are 6 foot long and I bury them 4 foot.. Then, you take a manilla rope, mine is 1 inch diameter. I also have a 1/2 inch that I want to learn on, and you tie the rope between the two stakes so that it is sort of like a slackrope or slackline. Then you walk on that until it does not sway.

Phase 4. You go to a river, I live on a creek and the river is about a mile away, and, you tie a rope from one side of the river to the other, onto trees. I'll be using my manilla rope. The river, I have not measured, but probably is about 300 or more foot across, I imagine. Then, the final test it to walk the full length of the rope without falling in.

Phase 5 . The last phase, never really ends, because you always use something smaller and lighter. It is called Treading on Duckweed Across the Water. It starts, as an art called Single Bamboo Pole Drifting or dú  zhú piǎo  or 独 竹 漂. It comes from the Wujiang drainage area of the northern Guizhou Province. In it, you get a 6 to 6 1/3  inch diameter, 12 to 24  foot long piece of Moso bamboo. This acts as your "boat," in a sense. You stand on this in the water. You also use a pole, mine is 12 foot long, one inch Tonkin bamboo and is used to push yourself or pole or paddle yourself across the river, sort of a Chinese version of SUP (Stand Up Paddle) surfboard. With this art, you start on the large Moso bamboo pole, then gradually get a smaller and smaller one, and also a thinner piece of bamboo, until it, ultimately is simply a flat reed. Moso bamboo grows primarily in Zhejiang Province in SE China. It grows to about 6 inches in diameter and roughly up to 90 feet tall. It actually can grow up to 3 feet in one day!!!, thus, making it truly filled with awesomely bodacious amounts of Chi. Not only do you float, paddle, and practice balance on the Du Zhu Piao Single Bamboo Pole Drifting pole, but you also practice a form of Chi Gung called Taoist Yoga on it. In many ways, this is similar to Indian styled Yoga, only it is more Yin based or softer with more focus on what happens internally in your body, as such, personally, I feel it is a much healthier and more beautiful art. I'd imagine, in half a year to a year, with the popularity of SUP Stand Up Paddleboard paddling that is going through the surfing world, that people on SUPs will begin doing Yoga as a form of balance training on an unsteady platform, in this case, an extra thick surfboard type craft. Of course, since I prefer Chinese style, I'll stick to Old School style of practicing yoga, that is, Taoist Yoga, on a floating bamboo pole, which, I must say, is much harder than SUP by far!!!


All of these exercises, put together, make up this particular style of slack rope walking.  And, as I see it, they all relate directly to surfing in that they teach balance, foot control, agility, strength, flexibility, and grace and beauty, all in a fun and rather unique way to train. As you can see, I find the history and traditions and such of an art like this truly fun to do and replicate. You'd all love my yard, by the way, where I am making all of this training equipment. In a way, it looks right out of a Chinese martial arts movie where the hero builds a bunch of traditional and primitive training equipment to train on while he gets ready to fight the villain in the final part of the movie.

This method, is an ancient Chinese method of rope walking from the Hubei Province area of China in the NW.

Many of these training methods come from a book called 72 Consummate Arts Secrets Of The Shaolin Temple by Wu Jiaming.  I have added my own interpretations and materials to the arts in the book based on my experience in Chi Gung and in surfing, as well as to fit the environment where I live, while trying to stick as closely as possible to the traditional Chinese methods of practice.



Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Monday, October 4, 2010

Rock Running, Rock Balancing, Rock Surfing Tai Chi and Rock Chi Gung for Surfing

Aloha Tribe,

One of my favorite training exercises that I was taught by my Watergirl mentor is Rock Running. In it, you find an area with a lot of large rocks or boulders, at least large enough for perhaps the ball of your foot to land on, and, perhaps up to a foot or several feet in diameter. Basically like what you can find on the North Shore of Oahu near Alligators, or, quite frankly, like I am so blessed to have right in my yard down by the creek. What I was taught was that you actually run, by leaps, bounds, and springs, from rock to rock, as quickly as you can. This being the  case, it helps to have someone with you to make it a race in that you can push each other in this method. This method teaches your to overcome fear, to pay extreme attention to details such as positioning, to learn to slow down time, to increase agility, flexibility, and speed, yet, it does require total attention for it can be extremely dangerous.

Rock Balancing is my own version of this, where I basically simply stand still on one or two rocks, while maintaining my balance for as long as possible, allowing my muscles in my torso or core to develop, as well as the muscles of my legs and buns. Holding a position like this, using the concepts behind the Chig Gung practice of Zhan Zhoung, one might hold a single position for an hour or more. During this time, when you first begin, you use muscular effort to do this, trying, of course, to relax as much as possible. With time and experience, you learn to hold positions that would lead quickly to muscular failure, by circulating your bodies energy or chi (qi) through your muscles, using your mind to guide the energy. Naturally, there are a series of exercises leading up to this method, and, quite frandly, even holding a stationary position, especially with your arms raised as though you were surfing or slacklining, will have most people reaching muscle fatique in minutes. It takes time to learn to hold a position still for over an hour, let alone several hours.

This advanced form of Rock Balancing, is actually, what I call Rock Chi Gung, since, to do it properly requires the ability to manipulate your chi to various parts of your body at will. This skill, by the way, while seemingly irrelevant to surfing, has tremendous surfing applications, as well as direct applications for virtually any sport such as  skateboarding, snowboarding, slackliining, slackrope walking, and tighrope walking.

Rock Surfing Tai Chi basically involves movement imitating surfing movements, while, balanced on rocks. Or, on tree roots or tree limbs, for that matter (both are also favorites of mine). With this exercise, you simply get into a surfing stance that you like, then, imagine yourself, in extreme slow motion, at Tai Chi speed, which basically means moving more or less as slowly as you can, you shift your body from one surfing body position to another, such as going from a Backside Turn to a Frontside Turn to a Drop Knee Cutback.

All of these exercises can essentially be done on anything, from rocks and branches and boulders and roots, to urban environmental applications (also my favorites), such as curbs, guardrails, handrails, pointed roofs on buildings, posts, poles, fences, horizontally suspended chains and ropes, to virtually anything you'd find in an urban environment. I see this as a new art form, and, a new sport of my own creation. In a way, it's sort of like urban skateboarding, only, without the skateboard, and, at a stationary or very slow moving pace, with positions held up to several hours.

The reason you move slowly, or, remain still, by the way, is to not only learn to build up your chi in your body, but also, you learn how to circulate it to any part of your body for injury healing, increased endurance and speed, and even increased strength, flexibility, and agility.

While this form of training seems to be rather paradoxical for action board sports such as surfing, snowboarding and skateboarding, the thing is, the more you do it, the better any of these sports will be for you to do, opening secret doors unimagined, and, leading to unlimited potential and limitless boundaries.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Saturday, October 2, 2010

Taco del Mar Fish Tacos and Homemade Fish Tacos: The Perfect Surfer's Diet

Aloha Tribe,

Well, in another month, it'll be a year since I've started this blog, though, not a year since I began surfing, which actually started in about January or so with my new Christmas present Robert August Wingnut longboard. In any event, I have been living, more or less, for the last year and a half on my Surfer's Diet, aka: Fish Taco Diet.

Basically, I try to eat one or two fish tacos a day, and, some fruit, namely, papayas, pineapple, and mangoes. Sure, I can't stick to that exclusively in that friends come over, we go out to dinner, or whatevers, but, for the most part, that's it.

I totally ove the fish tacos from Taco del Mar, I think they do a truly awesome job making them, in fact, it would be so cool to be the Taco del Mar fish taco surfer girl, if such an awesome position was available, for I'd love to represent them as a Surfer and Watergirl in a heartbeat. I always get my fish tacos from there with everything, plus, extra extra jalepenos, yes, that's double extra. I love the heat of chilies, especially jalepenos and habaneros. I typically try to eat about 8 to 12 jalepenos and about 5 habaneros a day.

If I don't have a Taco del Mar fish taco, I simply make my own. Here's how.

I almost always use Mahi Mahi.

I'll get a half pound or so, and, marinate it in a combination of tequilla and citrus juice, along with cilantro, chipolte, and Mexican oregano.

1/2  pound Mahi Mahi
1 shot tequilla - I personally love Jose  Cuervo Gold Tequilla
Juice of 2 fresh lemons
handful cilantro
several shakes of ground chipolte - enough to cover the fish
several shakes of Mexican oregano - enough to cover the fish
organic corn tortillas

I then take that, and, put it in a plastic bag and marinate it overnight in the fridge.

The next day, I braise the fish in the oven in a covered Le Creuset Mini Oval Coquette - my favorite is the Caribbean blue color - totally Watergirl, I must say.

While that is braising, I'll grill outdoors on a cast iron hibachi, the jalepenos and habaneros, which, when done, I"ll finely chop the hananeros and cover the fish with them, then, add the whole jalepenos. I'll next grill this all, along with my corn tortillas, and that's my typical daily meal. Twice a day, for the last year and a half. Along with fresh fruit, plenty of water every day, we are surfers after all and water is our element. And, sometimes, margaritas or Corona Extra.

If I don't make my Fish Taco at home, I'll always grill my Taco del Mar fish tacos on my hibachi. You see, what I do is I go to Taco del Mar, or have a friend do it for me, and I pick up around 30 to 40 fish tacos at a time. I always down one right away, after all, it's a moral imperative because they are so yummy. And then the rest, I bring home, wrap in parchment paper, and place 6 to a gallon sized plastic bag into my freezer. Then, I simply take out two a day, which, I always grill to warm them up, I guess, because for me, the act of doing that is my Baja Moment, I mean, you see, as a surfer, my dream of dreams is to surf Baja and as such I always have with me my Spanish Dictionary as well as numerous Baja maps and travel books, just in case today happens to be the day I make a Vagabond Feral Surfers run below the border. One of these days, I WILL!!! And I know, to some of you such romanticism of food and a surfing destination may seem silly, but I suspect that at least some of the Tribe know what I mean. You know.

One of my favorite things to do is to grill my fish tacos while sitting outdoors in my yard, down by the creek,  and, as my food grills, I always read one of my two favorite coffee table surfing books for the umpteenth time, either Stoked by Drew Kampion or The Surfboard: Art, Style, Stoke by Ben Marcus. These are two of my favorite books and I always read one or the other while cooking, as a sort of surfer's ritual and tradition, my tradition, my Baja Moment as I like to think of it. I love traditions and as a surfer, we have so many truly beautiful ones. That's one of the things about the Tribe, I love our surfing traditions, history, legends, heroes, and lore. Such tales stir my heart and soul and I truly loving sitting around with other surfers Talking Story, and, to do it over Fish Tacos, well, that's even better!!!

Oh, hey, here's a cool way to meet a bunch of surfers at your break. Get the fixin's for home made fish tacos or, go to whatever Fish Taco restaurant you have by you or that you prefer, and gather up as much as you can, along with plenty of beer and limes of course. Tote along a grill or hibachi or some such thing, and, after you session, toss it all on the grill. The smell will bring surfers running, and, it's a great way to meet new friends.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Chi Gung Surfing Moves for Surfing Mastery = perfect on NOHO Surf Balance Trainer

Aloha Tribe,

Chi Gung is about learning to use the energy in your body. As it relates to surfing, Surfing Chi Gung involves teaching how to utilize your bodies energy for dramatically improving strength, flexibility, coordination, agility, injury recover (over 7 times faster than normal), increased body and muscular speed, almost unlimited endurance, as well as grace, beauty, and flowing softness.

One of the ways to practice this is by extreme slow motion exercises which mimic your surfing style. In other words, the first move is paddling.

What I like to do is to lay down on my NOHO Surf Balance Trainer  and to arch my back like the yoga cobra position, sometimes in surfing called the Scorpion Back, and to position my arms as though I am paddling my board. First, I'll have my right arm forward and my left arm as though it is in the pulling stroke, then, I switch arms. I'll hold each position for as long as I can. What this does is to tighten the muscles of the body which are used in paddling, and, this creates muscular tension, which, in turn, blocks the chi flow of the body in that particular position, thus, building up the pressure of the chi, in this case, in the lower back muscles, the upper back, the shoulders, arms, and chest.

When you can no longer hold the position, and you come out of it, it will relax the muscles and the energy or chi (qi) will flow freely through the previously tensed muscles, completing the bodies circulation of energy, and thus, supply your muscular tissue with an increased supply of blood, oxygen, body fluids, and chi. This in turn, helps the muscles to grow, and, to heal.

Next, I'll sit on my NOHO Surf Balance Trainer as though I've made it out to the lineup and I'm waiting for a wave. In this position, I'll just let my body relax, and really focus on the musceles involved in sitting.

Next, I'll spin my NOHO Surf Balance Trainer, you'll need a fair amount of room for this if your using a longboard and in mid spin, stop, and focus my attention on the muscles involved in spinning and twisting my board to turn it around. Most surfers use their legs at the beginning stages, while more advanced surfers use body position and leverage while sitting back on the board.

Then, I mimic paddling again, only this time, using more power and muscular strength to more accurately copy the paddle style of increased speed used to actually catch a wave.

Following this, my next position I actually break down into several steps. It's my Pop Up. The first step is laying on the board, the next, 1/3 of the way through, the next all the way through while focusing on hip flexibility, and the last, the final stage just before standing. Each of these positions is held as long as possible.

And finally, I stand, keeping my legs slightly bent, my body in my natural surfing style pose. From here, I shift my body on my NOHO Surf Balance Trainer to positions I like to use while on a wave, such as a backside bottom turn, a frontside bottom turn, a backside top turn, a frontside top turn, a drop knee cutback, cross stepping, and nose riding, both hanging five, and hanging ten. Each pose is done in a variety of patterns, depending on how I might visualize a given wave to be acting. From here, I love adding all kinds of new moves, anywhere from my own invention The Submarine (the rarest and most unique surfing move), to Pearling Recovery moves, Stalling, Angling, Pulling Out, Kicking Out (I personally prefer Pulling Out better - its softer and more graceful), Hawaiian Pull Out, 360's, and any other moves that simply sound fun to work on.

Putting all of these parts together, the entire exercise can last as short or as long as you like, the longer, the better. In fact, if you can hold a position for a full hour, you're doing super great.

In the martial arts, such as the most Watergirl martial art there is, the Chinese Kung Fu style of Liuhebafa, also known as Waterboxing, this extremely advanced form of martial arts which is not only the most complex of all martial arts, but also the longest form, is often done by Masters of the art for up to 6 hours a day.

Interestingly enough, the more time one spends on this type of exercise, be it Waterboxing or Surfing Chi Gung, the more benefit you'll see.

At first, most surfers won't want to put in the time, after all, why not be out in the swells, surfing, right? But, the thing is, if you put in the time and effort and work through the basics of this exercise, you'll eventually known what the feeling of chi should be like in each movement of your surfing, and, at that time, you'll be able to stop focusing on the more basic through advanced levels of Wai Chi Surfing, and move instead, to the master level training of Nei Chi Surfing, where you flow your bodies energy using your mind instead of your muscles. When you can do this, at this point, you'll be able to really start to have some fun with Chi Gung and surfing because a whole new world opens up to what you can do on a wave.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Friday, October 1, 2010

The Secret of Old-School Classical Longboarding: Chi Gung Soul Surfing

Aloha Tribe,

As you all know, I love the longboard. It spiritually fits me.  I guess it's because of my hippy girl nature, that, and the Chi Gung and Shamanism I've practiced for a lifetime. You see, such a way of looking at life, that is to say, truly blending with the energy around you, the chi or qi, creates, a receptive harmony that just fits naturally with the longboard.

Sure, all of us see ourselves as Soul Surfers, yet, how few of us really understand what that really means? Naturally, the answer can only be found deep within each of us, in our own way, for, only ourselves, for we each walk our own path. Mine, happens to bushwack the wilds for that is my nature.

Soul Surfing, to me, is deepest explored using Chi Gung, since, as a tool, this 4000 year old Chinese art not only supplies the exercises and tools to do the job, but more so, supplies the language too that so many of us as surfers, lack. After all, we can say, we're stoked. But, what does that really mean? And, are their various levels or degrees of stoke even for ourselves? Of course there are. In fact, the depths are not only unexplored, which makes them utterly exciting, but more so, are virtually even unknown.

To find the secret of longboarding, all we really need to do is to find, within ourselves, that which allows each of us, for ourselves, to flow freely, naturally, and receptively, in graceful lines with the sea.

Sure, of course there's high performance longboarding, and, sure, many are on that path, but, for the Classical Stylist, for the Old-School Surfer, well, it's all about the flow.

And, what exactly is that flow? Well, it's how we feel the wave, and, how we blend with it and become one with it. When done the way we might dream, the result, is pure magic and feels like floating above the sea. In a way, it's not at all unlike how I like to think it would be for the comic book Marvel Super Hero The Silver Surfer, as he soars through the universe and galaxies, assuming, one could really do that, of course. But you know, that's the cool part in a way, we can, in our minds. And, as such, we can feel what is beyond us, with our energy, once, we know the secret.

Such a path of learning to feel and embrace the energy or chi (qi) around us, is what the field of Chi Gung is all about. It teaches you, basically, to simply learn to really embrace all of your senses at levels you never even imagined possible.

When in such a zone, instead of simply being on a wave, or, riding a wave and feeling the energy of a turn, there is so much more depth beyond this. You can feel the tiny ripples of each wave, the density of the water and its relationship to the bathymetry of the seascape, the minute shifts of yin and yang energy as they flow within and about you, your board, and the sea. When in such a state, it is as though time slows to microseconds, with each 1/25th of a second or even faster, not only noticeable, but more so, able to be played joyfully with.

This zone, of course, it what all pros in any sport tie into, they simply don't call it Chi Gung, merely because they haven't probably heard of the field, thus, the simply call it "the zone." But the cool thing is, once one begins exploring this in depth, there is so much to it that a mere label like the zone is like a simple title on a book without any of the details that are in the book. In other words, it means virtually nothing without the depth.

Of course, to enter such a zone, one needs access to both the right and left hemispheres of their brain. The left hemisphere, for logic, and the right, for feelings and emotions. Combined, one enters the realm that few, even elite athletes, know.

We all tend to set limits for ourselves, based on the statis quo that we are familiar with. And, all that Chi Gung is merely about is being willing to tear those limits asunder and boldly embrace what lays beyond in the wilds.

Such moments, in sports, occur when there is any kind of breakthrough, such as the breaking of the 4 minute mile, or the riding of a 50 foot wave. Until it's done, it seems impossible to all. Once done, many can do it. So really, the only limits are our own bravery and imagination.

And that really is what a field like Chi Gung is all about, and, that, at least to me, holds the secret to Soul Surfing, and thus, the secret to Old-School Classical Longboarding.

Chi Gung Soul Surfing for Old School Classical Longboarding, I see it as an unexplored virgin path through the wilds of the mind and body to unimagined places yet to even be created.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley