Come Monday 47 Foot

Aloha Tribe,

And still she grows. some of  the waves  in the Wilds should hit 47 foot (Triple Overhead).

As a Watergirl student under one of the world's original Legends and originators of Big Wave Surfers, it seems like sort of a moral imperative to hit both breaks, simply as a means of self experimentation, of course. A 20% or so increase like that would be interesting as a comparative study in riding pressure based on height,  probably thickness, and of naturally, mostly, Chi Analysis based on Yang Flow.

I admit it, I most certainly have never surfed a wave like this epic 47 footer yet, few, I'd imagine, have tried paddling into such a beast (I'm not Jet Ski trained and besides, I'm being trained in and truly love the ways of old-school, afterall, there's got to be a first time for a big wave virgin. Besides, when your mentor, who happens to be one of the greatest Big Wave Surfers ever says you're ready by saying the classic "fucking go for it"  especially, when you feel it in your heart and know you've trained the best you can. After all, sometimes you just have to jump into the proverbial deep end of the pool, not for fame, not for glory, but simply for Soul Surfing, for, none will probably see this ride, who could, after all, for purity of the true essence of Soul Surfing, all one would need do is stick Number 9's.

I'd imagine that 47  Foot will probably reach a speed of about 35 mph or so, maybe more. Thus, here are the rules I've been told to follow (plus a couple of my thoughts on them following a few...

1. Be Ahead of the Game - Know yourself, know what to do, then, do it with 100% commitment.

2. No Mishaps - Once, I was preparing to  go out with my mentor and another legend and I was told to "keep up," and, "do what we do." And, "oh, by the way, no falling."

3. Be Safe

4. Be Strong - Like the She-Hulk and the Silver Surfer (my literary fictional heroes who I literally base my training on).

5. Be Happy - I live by this one

6. Be Fast - Think like lightning, move like Quick Silver (mercury)

7. Be Cool - This one is pure Chi Gung

8. Be Calm -Also pure Chi Gung as well as my life style and natural expression.

9. Be Collective

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley