Aloha Tribe,
So, if all goes well, we'll have some beautiful triple overheads this weekend. Sure, they be closed out, but, well, that just goes with the territory. Here, you learn to play in such surf.
It'll be a great weekend for surfing as well as rough ocean swimming. In fact, some Coastal Swimming will also be awesome. Coastal Swimming is when you swim as close as possible to extreme environmental features such as rocks, jetties, piers, and such. It offers tremendous challenge because precise swimming is required. It is, of course, an extreme sport and conditioning tool, practiced, by few. In fact, while I am sure there are tons more, personally, I only know of three who do it. Myself, and two surfing legends on the North Shore.
This will be a great weekend to bring my Swiss Ball to the sea. Basically, it's an air filled ball, about 3 foot in diameter. You swim out with it into the largest swells you can find, and, the game is that you have to hold onto the ball at all times. It's an elite form of big wave surfing training, taught to me big wave surfing legend, my Surfing and Watergirl mentor, Darrick Doerner (DD). If you drop the ball, you lose. That's how the game is played. The idea is that the huge air filled ball will float and bounce in the waves, and thus, truly send you flying (while maintaining your grip on the ball at all times - that's the challenge of it), so that you actually end up flying through the air much further, higher, and more aggressively, than if you were swimming or surfing. As such, it teaches you how to fall safely while truly getting trounced in monster waves.
I love swimming in rough seas, seeing it, as my backyard, in a sense. My goal is to truly learn to feel at home in the highest, wildest seas possible in order to use such training for Rescue Swimming work.
I hope all works out this weekend as it currently looks, and, with my plans. It'll be awesome to stretch the muscles a bit.
Assuming I can indeed go, I'll bring my monofin and Rocket fins also to further expand and develop my Watergirl training.
While the waves don't sound like they'll be much for graceful mirrored face riding, they will be super for whitewater practice, which, I've always seen as an art in itself, that few truly love. It seems we all tend to look for those mystical perfect waves, and, yet, the waves are as they are, so why not learn to embrace and play in everything.
Quite frankly, from a surfing perspective, the waves here in the wilds rather suck, but, it is what it is, and thus, one simply learns to love it. So, when it comes down to it, we all have what we have, and, making the best of it is all we can do. When we release ourselves to this, we can find art in anything.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
Thursday, October 7, 2010
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