Monday, May 19, 2014

One Footers Tickling Endless Sands

Aloha Tribe,

Yesterday was a beautiful day out at what could be called Endless Sands. There were only two of us scanning miles of unpopulated beach, with merely a single harbor seal showing us how surfing is really done.

Sunny. Warm. Beautiful cute little waves. DD ( Darrick Doerner) told me once that if you can surf One Footers and truly master them, you can surf anything anywhere. And in a time of crowded breaks, sometimes its nice to be alone or with a single Brah on Safari.

The sea was warm, for the location and season, about 56 F, the skies smiling blue, the breeze barely dancing soft green dune grass.

We both had some bodacious rides, holding onto the tiny waves nearly to shore.

You should have been here yesterday.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley