Aloha Tribe,
Well, here it is, New Years Eve between 2010 and 2011. I just got done watching the awesome surfer movie Surfer, Dude staring Matthew McConaughey.
I utterly loved it!!!
As a Soul Surfer, the movie way so made sense to me. I could so relate to his way of seeing life. Wow, I wish I had known he was making the film, I'd have given anything to be a part of it in way, especially in writing and surfing for I so love both.
Now, the movie seems to have confused most film critics and almost all who don't surf who see it. Well, hey, that's there problem. The film was totally bodacious. It was about soul, through and through. And, if you're a surfer and you don't see that in the film, then, you need to take some steps back and think about why you surf. Go back in time and remember when you were a kook and a grom, remember when you started. And, find that lost surfer within yourself. All you need do, is to remember and feel again, your first time. Your first time for everything. Surfing, your first wave, screwing, weed, really getting it, hanging with brahs in slightly illegal activities, all those firsts. And, then, embrace that moment as you travel through time in your life to those days, however brief they may have been, when you too were a Soul Surfer, for, all of us were there, and, within each of us, we still are there.
The movie is not a "surfing," movie per say, with tons of surfing, but it is more than that, it is deeper than that, for it is truly a movie about surfers. And with that, what it really means to be a Soul Surfer.
I'd love to say to Matthew, "thank you!!!" And, I mean that genuinely and purely from my heart, for the film truly touched my soul. Twirls and spins of great joy.
I recommend you all buy a copy and watch it. And sure, it's not about radical thrashing, but who cares. It's about something important, something that so many of us out in the water have lost, it's a movie about what surfing really is about. The ride. The stoke. The waves. Love. Weed. And Brahs.
In presenting Soul Surfers, the movie got it right. Matthew had one board, and, one awesome set of stripped boardies (or as they'd simply call them on the North Shore, shorts). It's funny how we've named jams (originally named from pajamas, by the way), boardies, and baggies, and now, we simply call them shorts. The thing is, for the legends out there, one used to have just one pair back in the day, and, you wore them until they fell off from falling apart. They were so individual, you could tell a brah from his shorts. Just as you could tell him from his board. And, his style. That's when Soul Surfing was Soul Surfing, and, this movie captures that so awesomely. Sure, there's surfers out there who might not like the movie because they'll say it doesn't have enough surfing, or, perhaps even that the surfiing doesn't match their current modern aerial thrashing style, but, if that's how you feel, then you so don't get what Soul is all about. And this movie has it. The movie has the single board, the single pair of shorts, the Surfish Language, the bounding of surf brahs, in fact, the movie was even made that way, that is, Matthew got a bunch of his long-time friends together, brahs he'd know for a lifetime, and they made the movie. Just like the Old-School surf movies were really done. So, bottom line, I say this movie is so much deeper than almost everybody seems to get. And in that, lies its magic. For, truly, those who need it, at the time they see it, in the way they see it, will find this movie, and more so, they'll get it.
I'm so glad this is how I spent my New Years Eve, because watching the movie inspired me to look at my surfing with fresh eyes, to feel my rides even as I write these words. I feel as passionate about the surf this very second as I ever have, and, I have Surer, Dude movie to thank for it. So, Matthew, with full passion, "thank you!!!"
I wish with all of my heart that your movie had made you millions. But, you know, it's done something more, for it has offered Soul Surfing with fresh stoke to all who watch it and understand what it's really all about. And one can't help but smile with genuine sparkling eyes at that!!!
Oh, and, speaking as a girl who's studied Chi Gung since the age of 5, and, is a Surf Shaman able to call waves, I loved the scenes of Matthew's character fasting, making his bonfire, sacrificing his board, and dancing, all to call the swells. For, all of that has been done by surfers, and is still being done by Soul Surfers, and more so, when you really know how to do it, that stuff really works. In fact, it actually would be fun to share how it works if anybody is interested. It could be explained in Surfish terms, Shamanistically, and, most easily with Chi Gung for the words are there. The point is, they got it right when they made the film. We, as members of the Tribe, through us all being surfers, have our own culture, our own language, our own gods, our own rituals, and, this movie touched upon these so beautifully. This movie is deep, brahs, and, it so truly can bring you back to the very core of Soul Surfing.
Here's what you do. Get your brahs together, and, it's NEW YEARS DAY today so go surf. It's a moral imperative!!! And then, tonight, gather up some beer and weed and one grinds (I'm grilling venison and fish tacos for all who happen by, so, come, all are welcome, simply come to the wilds), all your brahs, and some beach bunnies, and find a place to hang, watch the movie, and let go. We as surfers can change the world brahs, like we once did before. Surfing needs us. The world needs us. It's time to go back to the days of the Soul Surfer, to unite as a Tribe again, to stop our silly local beefs and embrace one another, just like in the movie, for that too was shown (with a breakfast burrito). Let the world fuck itself in this new year and as for all of us, lets go back to screwing at the beach, covered in sand and surf wax.
God I loved this movie. Now, I gotta go surf!!! I'm so excited about the New Year coming, 2011 is going to be utterly and way totally bodacious, and you know something, for me at least, it all began, right here, right now, tonight, watching Matthew's movie.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
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