Big Island Hawaii

Aloha Tribe,

The last week and a half or so, most of the Big Island was pretty flat, except over by Hilo where there were some beautiful Head Highs with nice clean lines. You know, that's the way of surfing though, and all was good. I got a lot of time to freedive the reefs, which was great for getting a more indepth understanding of the bathymetry of the Big Island which was not only great benefit but also great fun. There were also some Knee Highs around Banyans which were fun. You know, you really can learn a lot on Knee High and smaller waves for it's really a chance to work on your technique and details. While studying under Darrick Doerner, he once told me that if you can ride One Foot High waves  really well, you can ride anything.

Now, I know a lot of surfers who won't go out in anything unless it's their required height, typically Overhead to Double Overhead or whatevers, but, the thing is to me at least in my silly naivette of my love of surfing, to just take any waves, even flat days like the Big Island had last week, and to simply love the fact that you're a surfer no matter what the conditions, then, well, that's what it's all about.  I learned a lot about the ocean especially the bathymetry of the Big Island, had a few great fish tacos and some awesome Mai Tais,  got a nice tan all over,  and just way totally embraced my Hawaii trip. I'll probably be going to Kauai for a month or so in another month or two, so that should be pretty awesome, then, after that in the Spring, spending a few weeks on the North Shore of Oahu. I'll also more than likely be going to surf China in the Spring which should be quite the adventure. In the Summer, I'll be hitting Waikiki. In the meantime, for today, there's some Double Overheads (16 Foot) at the Wilds with Triple Overheads a bit further on, the waters intense as usual, Light Cross Winds at about 6 mph, water at 49, a far cry from Hawaii's 79 degrees or so, but, hey, it's my home break and the cold water and cold winds make it fun, especially as the waves rise, winds grow, and snow whips the shore.  It's time to put away my camouflaged string bikini for later and get out my wet suit for now. It's good to be home.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Alaia Secrets for Surfing Mastery

Aloha Tribe,

Would you like to improve your surfing skills? Sure, we all probably try to do this. Well, one pretty fun secret is to surf as much as you can on an Alaia. They're easy and fun to make and learning to surf on one will dramatically improve the way you surf. To make one, simply get a solid piece of wood and cut out the outline or glue several planks together and then shape them into the pattern you want for your board. Shape the nose and tail to fit your interpretation of what what you, work on the rails a bit, and, there you go. This can be as creative and beautiful as you dream, or, as simple as a piece of solid wood hand cut and shaped with an ax or  machete or  similar tool like one might do in the jungles of Gabon (there is a beautiful example of a rugged as hell hand chopped board on a Gabon site that is pretty cool (it couldn't be any rougher or more primitive, and that's why it so interests me). Simplicity, old-school, working with what you have, those are secrets behind Alaia surfing.

As for improving your surfing using an Alaia, for one thing, there is no rocker on an Alaia since it is simply a flat piece of wood. Thus, you have to pay much more attention to board trim so that you don't get your nose too high out of the water and Stall, or dig too deep and Pearl. Learning how to not Pearl using an Alaia will give your surfing a supblety, smoothness, softness, delicacy,  and control you may have never had to such a high degree of perfection, thus offering your surfing whole new possibilities of creative expression with surfing lines.

The same thing applies to turning. You have to be exact when you weight a Rail so that you don't Dig or Bog a Rail. In addition, you learn to use your feet to also help turn.

Once you master your Alaia, your old board you typically always ride  will seem easy by comparison, offering you a whole new way to explore your surfing.

Now then, as for the real secrets of surfing mastery by surfing Alaia, hmm, the best way to share them is to get together and surf together and also Talk Story after sessions and while in the Line-Up. So, all we need to do is to be in the same place at the same time. That being said, watch the waves around the world, chances are, I'll be there. And wow, are there some cool things to talk about and share and so very much for me to learn and try.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Triple Overheads and Hawaii

Aloha Tribe,

So, for prep training for my Hawaii trip, we have Triple Overheads (21-22 foot) in the Wilds today. Blown Out, Voodoo Mist, Windy as hell, Choppy, and strong Cross Currents, medium Periods, plus, bitter cold and rain, just the way I love it. Then, after that, it's off to string bikini surfing in tropical lushness, perfect waves, long periods, lots of sunshine, gentle sea breezes, and lots of fish tacos and fresh fruit and tropical drinks like Mai Tais. It'll be a fun few weeks. My days will be spent surfing Dawn Patrol to Dusk and my nights playing Xiangqi or Chinese Chess (I've got to get in chess shape for my upcoming China trip - I plan to do some chess hustling on the trains as I travel the country, Street Compositions out of a portable stall in the cities,  games in the mountain Taoist monestaries, all while training for  some tournaments).

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Double Overheads Today Through the Weekend

Aloha Tribe,

Double Overheads today and through the weekend in the Wilds, except Saturday, oh, and a week ago, Tentacles and Beyonds utterly ripped. 15 footers tomorrow, 17 on Sunday.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley