Aloha Tribe,
The last week and a half or so, most of the Big Island was pretty flat, except over by Hilo where there were some beautiful Head Highs with nice clean lines. You know, that's the way of surfing though, and all was good. I got a lot of time to freedive the reefs, which was great for getting a more indepth understanding of the bathymetry of the Big Island which was not only great benefit but also great fun. There were also some Knee Highs around Banyans which were fun. You know, you really can learn a lot on Knee High and smaller waves for it's really a chance to work on your technique and details. While studying under Darrick Doerner, he once told me that if you can ride One Foot High waves really well, you can ride anything.
Now, I know a lot of surfers who won't go out in anything unless it's their required height, typically Overhead to Double Overhead or whatevers, but, the thing is to me at least in my silly naivette of my love of surfing, to just take any waves, even flat days like the Big Island had last week, and to simply love the fact that you're a surfer no matter what the conditions, then, well, that's what it's all about. I learned a lot about the ocean especially the bathymetry of the Big Island, had a few great fish tacos and some awesome Mai Tais, got a nice tan all over, and just way totally embraced my Hawaii trip. I'll probably be going to Kauai for a month or so in another month or two, so that should be pretty awesome, then, after that in the Spring, spending a few weeks on the North Shore of Oahu. I'll also more than likely be going to surf China in the Spring which should be quite the adventure. In the Summer, I'll be hitting Waikiki. In the meantime, for today, there's some Double Overheads (16 Foot) at the Wilds with Triple Overheads a bit further on, the waters intense as usual, Light Cross Winds at about 6 mph, water at 49, a far cry from Hawaii's 79 degrees or so, but, hey, it's my home break and the cold water and cold winds make it fun, especially as the waves rise, winds grow, and snow whips the shore. It's time to put away my camouflaged string bikini for later and get out my wet suit for now. It's good to be home.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
The last week and a half or so, most of the Big Island was pretty flat, except over by Hilo where there were some beautiful Head Highs with nice clean lines. You know, that's the way of surfing though, and all was good. I got a lot of time to freedive the reefs, which was great for getting a more indepth understanding of the bathymetry of the Big Island which was not only great benefit but also great fun. There were also some Knee Highs around Banyans which were fun. You know, you really can learn a lot on Knee High and smaller waves for it's really a chance to work on your technique and details. While studying under Darrick Doerner, he once told me that if you can ride One Foot High waves really well, you can ride anything.
Now, I know a lot of surfers who won't go out in anything unless it's their required height, typically Overhead to Double Overhead or whatevers, but, the thing is to me at least in my silly naivette of my love of surfing, to just take any waves, even flat days like the Big Island had last week, and to simply love the fact that you're a surfer no matter what the conditions, then, well, that's what it's all about. I learned a lot about the ocean especially the bathymetry of the Big Island, had a few great fish tacos and some awesome Mai Tais, got a nice tan all over, and just way totally embraced my Hawaii trip. I'll probably be going to Kauai for a month or so in another month or two, so that should be pretty awesome, then, after that in the Spring, spending a few weeks on the North Shore of Oahu. I'll also more than likely be going to surf China in the Spring which should be quite the adventure. In the Summer, I'll be hitting Waikiki. In the meantime, for today, there's some Double Overheads (16 Foot) at the Wilds with Triple Overheads a bit further on, the waters intense as usual, Light Cross Winds at about 6 mph, water at 49, a far cry from Hawaii's 79 degrees or so, but, hey, it's my home break and the cold water and cold winds make it fun, especially as the waves rise, winds grow, and snow whips the shore. It's time to put away my camouflaged string bikini for later and get out my wet suit for now. It's good to be home.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
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