Aloha Tribe,
Imagine if everything you new about surfing, everything you'd ever seen in the movies, from your friends, anywhere, anytime, anyplace, was suddenly, in a single day of the wildest most feral surf you'd ever danced with tore your body loose from the old surfer you were, reshaping you in boiling oceanic pulsations into a totally new surfer. That was yesterday.
You see, yesterday in the Wilds, the sea was alive, it was as if it were boiling water, every inch of pulsing movement exploding in new directions of unlimited skyrocketing swells, waves, boards, and, ideas.
Oddly enough, I've never seen the ocean quite like this. Now, from a normal surfing expression, one would look upon such a scene and say it either sucked or it was terrrifying beyond all measure. Then again, by surrendering ones soul to the sea in such conditions, a whole new way of feeling surfing and my body swept through every fluid fiber of my being.
The swells seemed to come from five primary directions all at once, for example, a wave would come from the SW and 8 seconds beind it would be one coming in from the NW, followed 2 seconds behind that by one from the W, the then 6 seconds later for a Period from the SNW. Interestingly enough, the waves would come in at not only different angles but also dramatically different speeds, thus, there could, with any given wave, be a crashing explosive assimilation of countless waves hitting each other, thus Jacking Up and Doubling Up even upon themselves, leading to total chaotic swirling and bursting expressions of water geysers, with currents pulling from every direction at once at both the same levels of depth and different depths.
Now, when I got there for all of this, there was no one anywhere. No cars, nobody watching the beach, and most certainly nobody in the water. To get to a decent Line Up, you had to swim out for roughly 3/4 of a mile if you truly wanted to get beyond the churning Lines of wild oceanic dancing. Alone in such a sea, with nobody in sight anywhere, leads to interesting insight and thus, new surfing feelings, expressions, and ideas.
Yesterday boiled my body, mind, and soul into a new artistic expression of surfing looseness, giving me unimagininable and countless new moves to yearn for with full passion.
I feel today, different. A new girl alive with a depth of a love of movement I have never know before, a level beyond levels calling my heart and soul, singing to my muscles, beckoning me to the swells today.
In darkness, I await the rising of the next Dawn Patrol sun, my heart pumping beyond burst, my muscles aquiver, my soul aflame, my mind dancing free, my Alaia patiently waiting with the explosive anticipation of a Champion racehorse seconds before the dropping of the Gate for our harmonious union.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
Imagine if everything you new about surfing, everything you'd ever seen in the movies, from your friends, anywhere, anytime, anyplace, was suddenly, in a single day of the wildest most feral surf you'd ever danced with tore your body loose from the old surfer you were, reshaping you in boiling oceanic pulsations into a totally new surfer. That was yesterday.
You see, yesterday in the Wilds, the sea was alive, it was as if it were boiling water, every inch of pulsing movement exploding in new directions of unlimited skyrocketing swells, waves, boards, and, ideas.
Oddly enough, I've never seen the ocean quite like this. Now, from a normal surfing expression, one would look upon such a scene and say it either sucked or it was terrrifying beyond all measure. Then again, by surrendering ones soul to the sea in such conditions, a whole new way of feeling surfing and my body swept through every fluid fiber of my being.
The swells seemed to come from five primary directions all at once, for example, a wave would come from the SW and 8 seconds beind it would be one coming in from the NW, followed 2 seconds behind that by one from the W, the then 6 seconds later for a Period from the SNW. Interestingly enough, the waves would come in at not only different angles but also dramatically different speeds, thus, there could, with any given wave, be a crashing explosive assimilation of countless waves hitting each other, thus Jacking Up and Doubling Up even upon themselves, leading to total chaotic swirling and bursting expressions of water geysers, with currents pulling from every direction at once at both the same levels of depth and different depths.
Now, when I got there for all of this, there was no one anywhere. No cars, nobody watching the beach, and most certainly nobody in the water. To get to a decent Line Up, you had to swim out for roughly 3/4 of a mile if you truly wanted to get beyond the churning Lines of wild oceanic dancing. Alone in such a sea, with nobody in sight anywhere, leads to interesting insight and thus, new surfing feelings, expressions, and ideas.
Yesterday boiled my body, mind, and soul into a new artistic expression of surfing looseness, giving me unimagininable and countless new moves to yearn for with full passion.
I feel today, different. A new girl alive with a depth of a love of movement I have never know before, a level beyond levels calling my heart and soul, singing to my muscles, beckoning me to the swells today.
In darkness, I await the rising of the next Dawn Patrol sun, my heart pumping beyond burst, my muscles aquiver, my soul aflame, my mind dancing free, my Alaia patiently waiting with the explosive anticipation of a Champion racehorse seconds before the dropping of the Gate for our harmonious union.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
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