Aloha Tribe,
So, after I got back from the North Shore of Oahu, I went to Oregon for a week and surfed around the breaks around Seaside. In the process, I studied the northern section of Oregon breaks in preparation for a surfing trip I am preparing for this Summer that will take me from Washington down to Southern California and hopefully, the Baja border.
Then, in the Fall, I will be going back to the North Shore for about 40 days or so of more surfing training around Samhain when every pro surfer in the world quests to the North Shore for the late Fall, early Winter competitions.
At the moment, I'm working on making my New VW Bug into a Baja Bug. The first thing I'm doing, of course, is getting a surfboard rack. Now granted, I can get my 9 foot longboards INSIDE of my Bug, and, even my 9'3" elephant gun, but, my Feral Board is a 10 foot long BK longboard.
I'm becoming a feral surfer. A nomad of the swell. With my eyes on the horizon and my heart on the waves. I'll be bringing just one board, my feral board, along with a canvas rambler backpack, and a tent, all packed into and on top of my bright orange VW Bug. Hopefully, I'll have a safari cargo rack on top of the Bug, simply because, well, it's adventureous.
Aloha,
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
Wednesday, May 26, 2010
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