Aloha Tribe,
For the next 11 days, begining tonight in about 3 hours, but starting tomorrow, I'm on a quest of simply surfing with my old-school longboard. I do this type of exploration every year at this time, my Birthday. Surfing. Fasting. Watching and listening to the sea all night. Nothing more.
One girl. One classic board. One backpack. My bright orange VW Bug. And, the sea.
Where I'll begin? Here. Where I'll end? I never know until I"m there. The swells call, dancing their chaos at Double Overhead, offering wild, untamed waves of unpredictable direction and unharnessed power.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
Wednesday, January 12, 2011
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
No comments:
Post a Comment