Tuesday, January 25, 2011

Surf Move: 180 Hawaiian Pull Out

Aloha Tribe,

I love Pull Outs so much better than Kick Outs. Now sure, for most of us, we don't even think about  this part of the ride, let alone that there is a difference between these two styles of exiting your wave while surfing. Yet, to me, this part is just as important, and, just as fun, as the whole ride on any given wave.

To me, a Pull Out is a gentle curving up and over the Shoulder of the wave, whereas, I see a Kick Out as a frantic, frenetic slashing, tight cutting angular kind of exit.

That being said, the version of the Hawaiian Pull Out that so calls to my soul, involves, not only sitting as you exit the wave, but, doing it on a spinnng  board so that you end up actually facing the beach and drift backwards over the top of the wave Shoulder.

I am drawn to this style of Pull Out for several reasons.  First of all, I find it truly beautiful, graceful, soft, flowing, filled with Aloha,  and, oh so very  fun. And, secondly, it simply fits the way I see surfing, that is to say, it fits my riding style as a Classic Old School Longboard Girl as well, interestingly enough, as the way I live my life as a surfer and a member of the Tribe.

Style. That's it in a word. Surfing, to me, is about how it feels, and, the more you can embrace that beautiful sense of feeling, of sensing all that happens to you, the more you can fully enjoy your surfing.

Now, the way I learned this move, was, the way I learned most moves, simply by accident. In other words, it just sort of happened. You see, I had been spending a lot of time working on Spinning my board while sitting in the Line Up. Sure, the normal way of doing it is to propel your feet around, even if it's only a bit provided one sits way back on their board, but, what I had been working on was using my hips, instead of my legs and feet. I liked the feeling of simply using pressure between my legs as I squeezed the boards, and, then weighting either hip in order to dip the nose at an angle beneath the surface, which, when down with simultaneously lifting your tail, you, which requires you to use a combination of the inner thigh muscles on the front of your legs, as well as the inner thigh muscles on the back of your legs at the same time and in harmony with each other. This pressure of using the inner thigh muscles and your hips allows you to dip the nose of your board in either direction, which, as soon as it drops beneath the water, it begins slicing dowwards, thus, turning you in that direction. With control, one can then feel or sense the proper time to lift the nose into the opposite angle so that the nose now angles up propelling it towards the waters surface. In this way, the board can be made to spin, with no sitting back on the board, and, without propelling your legs and feet.

Sure, that was simply an exercise, and,  a stylistic experiement that for most would seem useless, but, I must say, it's loads of fun to do, and, as it turns out, it has tremendous value in various types of surfing moves such as this particular 180 Hawaiian Pull Out as well as for some super stylistic Paddle Out Reentrys. Oh, and, naturally, by the way, you have to keep your arms and hands off the board, or it would become no only way too easy to weight the board with your hands and arms, thus, so totally ruining all sense of style and more importantly, the point of the exercise, but also, by not using your hands, arms, or legs, you gain greater balance, more beauty in your moves, and, a so much greater sense of body awareness in all movement forms no matter whether you're on a wave or in the sand.

In any event, as I mentioned, that is the exercise that I had come up with and was practicing until I got it wired pretty tight. It was such fun to do.

Which brings us to the part of the story of how the move was an accident. There I was, about to exit a totally awesome wave by calmly sliding up toward the Shoulder of the wave when, just as I approached the peak, about to slide over, the wave jacked just enough to start to spin me exactly as I happened to be focusing on steering with the Nose. This, of course, spun my clockwise on a Right, as my nose dug beneath the water lifting my tail just enough to glide across the water's surface, drawing a ringlet trail with my Skeg  tracing her arcing path like a finger in a still pool. The wave itself carried me to a full 180 as I was sitting on the Deck, and I drifted backwards up and over the Shoulder, riding backwards, facing, the beach.

As with all moves I've tried, having done it once, even if but by accident, I could now, for whatever reason, replicate it again at will. At which point, naturally, I begin experimenting and honing my performance, often, coming up with even new variations on a just new variation. For example, after one can do the 180 Hawaiian Pull Out, then you can practice doing it smoother, with greater softness, flow, beauty, and of course Aloha Spirit, and this, naturally, leads to a rather casual appearing almost easy looking exit from a wave. It's a great way to end a ride, and, frankly, every Pro out there out to try it if riding smooth is their style. Naturally, the next move that this leads into in your surfing repetoire is the 180 Hawaiian Pull Out No Paddle Reentry. This, as I've mentioned in another post, requires perfect wave placement and total understanding of how the swells work, particularly at your break. To do this, of course, requires deep study of the waves of the moment, their period, their direction, cross-currents, wind, and the overall timing of your ride that lead up to the 180 Spinning Hawaiian Pull Out, so that, as you slide over the back of the wave you just rode, you are in perfect placement for this next phase.

Given the type of knowledge I received from working my board the way I described above led me to developing my version of the Hawaian Pull Out, which I just shared, as well as ultimately, to the second most difficult surfing move of all time: Spinning Pearl Outs which then lead to the rarest move in all of surfing, the Submarine Move. Now that's a MOVE!!!

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley


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