Aloha Tribe,
So, last weekend, at Logs, Friday through Sunday, the waves were PERFECT. Double Overhead, smooth faces (given the wildness of the area), perfectly peeling, 16 second periods simulaneously from two fronts at SW and NW creating purely chaotic totally bodaciousness!!!
A perfect place for Burling, Single Bamboo Pole Drifting, Longboarding, and Shortboarding. Watch the logs, they'll kill you or maime you faster than fast so you'd better be quick with an even quicker eye and lighting feet, yet, in true Soul Surfer Old School Classic Style, all done with smoothness, grace, and a slow sureness of calm in the face of a watery whirlwind, yin within yang if you will. Perfect for long, controlled, Rollercoasters all the way to the beach.
Nobody literally was out. Nobody was even on the sand no matter how far up or down the beach you looked. It couldn't have been more perfect.
In a word the surfing savage.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
So, last weekend, at Logs, Friday through Sunday, the waves were PERFECT. Double Overhead, smooth faces (given the wildness of the area), perfectly peeling, 16 second periods simulaneously from two fronts at SW and NW creating purely chaotic totally bodaciousness!!!
A perfect place for Burling, Single Bamboo Pole Drifting, Longboarding, and Shortboarding. Watch the logs, they'll kill you or maime you faster than fast so you'd better be quick with an even quicker eye and lighting feet, yet, in true Soul Surfer Old School Classic Style, all done with smoothness, grace, and a slow sureness of calm in the face of a watery whirlwind, yin within yang if you will. Perfect for long, controlled, Rollercoasters all the way to the beach.
Nobody literally was out. Nobody was even on the sand no matter how far up or down the beach you looked. It couldn't have been more perfect.
In a word the surfing savage.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
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