Aloha Tribe,
I was just sitting here, reflecting on a ride that really counted. I was out at Number 9's with DD (Darrick Doerner), and he had me surfing right on the rock down the deep channel, right in the middle of the food chain.
I had been out with DD's for a spell, all going well, when suddenly, I felt it. Something hunting, me. I turned to my left and looked to see a large back of something, about the size of the roof of a car it looked like, rise out of the water, roll over the surface, and dive back under. I had just enough of a glance to see it for a split second, and, it was big. Really big.
It was about 12 feet away when it went beneath the surface, and I could see a very large shape turn on a die and head, for me, directly for me.
I knew I had less than one to two seconds to do something, though, in that instant, it was time standing still. I glanced over my shoulder, saw a solid overhead coming, and knew, it all came down to this, I had to catch this wave.
I was calm, not frightened, but I knew I was in serious danger. The wave lifted the back of my board just as the beast, barely perceptible, more felt actually, was but about 2 foot away just off the side of my board. As my tail lifted, I simply knew my work at No Paddle Take Offs would work, it after all, had to.
So, I stood. And rode in. All the way in. It actually was rather quite the ride, looking back at it now. I had enough presence of mind to be aware of style, of all things, as I expected any second for something to slam into my board. But for some reason, I was calm, mellow actually, I guess because it all to me was happening in micro-seconds.
I got on the beach, still not sure what was out there.
Later, after DD's got the tail of his board bit off, we realized it was not Great Whites, but instead, a gang of sea lions consisting of a few males, several females, and a couple of pups. We were lucky.
I realized something about myself that day, at least, for that day, at that time. That, there are times in ones life, when it really counts, when sometimes, you pull it off. I feel really blessed.
Now, out at Tentacles, that was another story. That time, being dragged backwards on my Robert August Wingnut longboard several yards at a rather alarming speed, well, that was a bit concerning that day. But, that's another tale for another night.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
I was just sitting here, reflecting on a ride that really counted. I was out at Number 9's with DD (Darrick Doerner), and he had me surfing right on the rock down the deep channel, right in the middle of the food chain.
I had been out with DD's for a spell, all going well, when suddenly, I felt it. Something hunting, me. I turned to my left and looked to see a large back of something, about the size of the roof of a car it looked like, rise out of the water, roll over the surface, and dive back under. I had just enough of a glance to see it for a split second, and, it was big. Really big.
It was about 12 feet away when it went beneath the surface, and I could see a very large shape turn on a die and head, for me, directly for me.
I knew I had less than one to two seconds to do something, though, in that instant, it was time standing still. I glanced over my shoulder, saw a solid overhead coming, and knew, it all came down to this, I had to catch this wave.
I was calm, not frightened, but I knew I was in serious danger. The wave lifted the back of my board just as the beast, barely perceptible, more felt actually, was but about 2 foot away just off the side of my board. As my tail lifted, I simply knew my work at No Paddle Take Offs would work, it after all, had to.
So, I stood. And rode in. All the way in. It actually was rather quite the ride, looking back at it now. I had enough presence of mind to be aware of style, of all things, as I expected any second for something to slam into my board. But for some reason, I was calm, mellow actually, I guess because it all to me was happening in micro-seconds.
I got on the beach, still not sure what was out there.
Later, after DD's got the tail of his board bit off, we realized it was not Great Whites, but instead, a gang of sea lions consisting of a few males, several females, and a couple of pups. We were lucky.
I realized something about myself that day, at least, for that day, at that time. That, there are times in ones life, when it really counts, when sometimes, you pull it off. I feel really blessed.
Now, out at Tentacles, that was another story. That time, being dragged backwards on my Robert August Wingnut longboard several yards at a rather alarming speed, well, that was a bit concerning that day. But, that's another tale for another night.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
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