Aloha Tribe,
So, what is the secret of surfing? Being aware of what you're doing. Truly aware. Fully, totally, 100% aware. Aware not only of every single muscle movement in your body, but more, how the internal fluids of your body move too, including blood flow, oxygen flow, and mostly, Chi flow. More so, we also need to be aware of what our board is doing, and, what the wave is doing, as well as where we are in space in relation to the wave, and all obstacles in the water, including other surfers, animals, rocks, logs, or anything else that might be out there.
So, how can we develop such awareness? Well, to get a general idea, go and rent or buy the movie Men Who Stare At Goats starring George Clooney, Ewan McGregor, and Jeff Bridges. It was originally a book, by the way, by John Ronson. Now sure, the movie spoofs a bit with Star Wars, using terms like Jedi and such, but, the concept behind the film is total Chi awareness using principles of Chi Gung. Sure, it's just a movie, and, it has nothing seemingly to do with surfing, yet, the awareness of ones self that the movie is about, is, really, what surfing at a high level is about.
Now then, back to surfing. When you surf, pay attention to how your body moves, and, how each and every muscle moves. Sure, you might say that you simply do it, but, the thing is, a much much deeper level than that, is to truly be aware of what you are doing, exactly as you are doing it. For there, lays the heart of mastery.
The way to do this is to experiment with your body. Try moving your weight a bit this way or that way as you surf, and, see what happens. Try weighting and unweighting one foot or the other. Move your arms in different positions. Allow your body weight to shift and flow, and, notice what happens. Above all, be aware. The smaller, the more focused your movements, the more you can understand what is happening as you surf, how, and, why. And armed with this, you then have a blueprint to experiment with, and thus, you can push your level to any height you chose to aim for in surfing.
Do not let limitations hinder you. Do not take someone elses style or word for this or that being the way to do something. Instead, find out how you surf, how your body works, how your board rides, and, what your break truly is like. And, with all that, play. The more relaxed you are, the more freely your energy or Chi flows, and thus, the more you can sense what you are doing, what your board is doing, what the wave is doing, and, how all these things fit together.
Don't buy into the idea that you can not and nobody can truly think as they surf. That idea is nonsense, perpetuated simply by those who have not yet learned, nothing more. You can be fully and totally aware of every microsecond of your surfing, of all that your body, board, and wave are doing, and more so, you can think fast enough to change any of these or at least how you respond to them.
Instead of surfing blindly, simply riding, allow your mind to truly speed with lighting and then allow your body to follow, for when you can do this, you can dance on water.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
So, what is the secret of surfing? Being aware of what you're doing. Truly aware. Fully, totally, 100% aware. Aware not only of every single muscle movement in your body, but more, how the internal fluids of your body move too, including blood flow, oxygen flow, and mostly, Chi flow. More so, we also need to be aware of what our board is doing, and, what the wave is doing, as well as where we are in space in relation to the wave, and all obstacles in the water, including other surfers, animals, rocks, logs, or anything else that might be out there.
So, how can we develop such awareness? Well, to get a general idea, go and rent or buy the movie Men Who Stare At Goats starring George Clooney, Ewan McGregor, and Jeff Bridges. It was originally a book, by the way, by John Ronson. Now sure, the movie spoofs a bit with Star Wars, using terms like Jedi and such, but, the concept behind the film is total Chi awareness using principles of Chi Gung. Sure, it's just a movie, and, it has nothing seemingly to do with surfing, yet, the awareness of ones self that the movie is about, is, really, what surfing at a high level is about.
Now then, back to surfing. When you surf, pay attention to how your body moves, and, how each and every muscle moves. Sure, you might say that you simply do it, but, the thing is, a much much deeper level than that, is to truly be aware of what you are doing, exactly as you are doing it. For there, lays the heart of mastery.
The way to do this is to experiment with your body. Try moving your weight a bit this way or that way as you surf, and, see what happens. Try weighting and unweighting one foot or the other. Move your arms in different positions. Allow your body weight to shift and flow, and, notice what happens. Above all, be aware. The smaller, the more focused your movements, the more you can understand what is happening as you surf, how, and, why. And armed with this, you then have a blueprint to experiment with, and thus, you can push your level to any height you chose to aim for in surfing.
Do not let limitations hinder you. Do not take someone elses style or word for this or that being the way to do something. Instead, find out how you surf, how your body works, how your board rides, and, what your break truly is like. And, with all that, play. The more relaxed you are, the more freely your energy or Chi flows, and thus, the more you can sense what you are doing, what your board is doing, what the wave is doing, and, how all these things fit together.
Don't buy into the idea that you can not and nobody can truly think as they surf. That idea is nonsense, perpetuated simply by those who have not yet learned, nothing more. You can be fully and totally aware of every microsecond of your surfing, of all that your body, board, and wave are doing, and more so, you can think fast enough to change any of these or at least how you respond to them.
Instead of surfing blindly, simply riding, allow your mind to truly speed with lighting and then allow your body to follow, for when you can do this, you can dance on water.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
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