One Girl, One Board, One Perfect Wave

Hey Surfers,

WHAT:  

I've found the perfect board.

The most bodacious longboard on the planet, a 9 foot Robert August Wingnut longboard.


MY DREAM:

To go from kahuna tuna to bodacious nose rider and big wave rider in one year.


WHY THIS BLOG IS UNIQUE: 

My blog will quite possibly be the first surfing blog ever written by a Chi Gung (Qigong) Master, and I'll be applying this 4000 year old Chinese energy art to my longboard riding style.  In addition, you'll read here, for the first time, the principles of Chi Gung as they apply to the study of waves as well as for creating series of surfing moves (Chi Gung Surfing Wave Forms).


Along the way, we'll talk about my favorite cookbook BAJA: Cooking on the Edge by Deborah M. Schneider, and also what I call -

                                                            
The Surfer's Diet
  
2 Times a Day (breakfast and dinner)


Fish Tacos
Papayas
Mangoes
Pineapples
Water - about a gallon a day
Margaritas
Coronas.



Exercise: I will also be using Laird Hamilton's book Force of Nature as my primary exercise inspiration. I'll shoot for surfing and other forms of training at least 6-8 hours per day.

The additional training will come from:

Surfing

Weights - kettlebells, trees, rocks, elastic bands, circus hammer, Indian clubs, 2" diameter climbing rope

Chi Gung (Qigong) - the newly created, never before done anywhere on the planet Surfing Qigong!!!

Stretching - using elastic bands and a ballet bar as well as Eco-Yoga

Balance Exercises - bosu ball, indo board, tv game surfboard, skateboarding, slacklining, trapeze work

Paddling my new Wingnut Longboard using wind sprint training - daily in the river

Bodyboarding- using my new bodyboard (it just came today for my upcoming Birthday)

Mountainboarding - This also is a Birthday present.


I'm also in the process of also planning my next surfboard purchase. As we speak, it is being investigated to see if it is doable. As I find out more about it, I'll talk about that board more. The new board will be my big wave board, the perfect gun. And, until I get that one, I'll be using my red and white stripped Wingnut Longboard to get me ready during the course of the year, and, by next Christmas, I'll have, if all my Santa dreams come true, my big wave gun too so that I can start to explore larger waves. Both boards are (and will be hopefully) from Robert August, my favorite shaper of all time. I dream of an all Robert August quiver (with the addition of my lime green Hawaiian Blades Thruster, of course - I already, after all, have that one).

My blog will be primarily focused on my daily training, from beginner to hopefully within a year, a beautifully stylish nose rider and if I"m lucky, maybe even a tube rider,  and then after that, toward riding big waves. Along the way, I'll  include my diet, my daily training for 6- 8 or more hours a day, any surfing trips I can go on during the year as I hone my nose riding skills

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley