The Perfect Longboard

Aloha to the Tribe,

So, I've like totally been on the quest for the perfect longboard surfboard for the last few months, and, I've found her.

It all began with a potentially life challenging disorder, the worst case of esophogitis that my Doctor and a Specialist has ever seen. It was so bad, it was potentially life threatening. Well, one thing led to another and I ended up in the hospital on the heart floor where they monitored my heart day and night while also making sure I was still breathing. I had nearly suffocated several times during several nights, waking up, completely unable to breathe. It was pretty scary.


While in the hospital, my life ring was my books on surfing and freediving. I had with me the surfing books Surfinary and also Wingnut's Complete Surfing, Gerry Lopez's awesome book Surf is Where You Find It, as well as the freediving book; Manual of Freediving. These books, got me through it.

When I got out of the hospital, I looked at my life. And, what I wanted to do with the rest of my life. It was then that I decided I wanted to surf. More so, I wanted to surf a longboard like Robert "Wingnut" Weaver and Robert August (from the movie Endless Summer) and, I wanted the beautiful graceful, soft style of Gerry Lopez (oh how his style calls to me so).

And that was it. It was that simple. I had found out what I'd do for the rest of my life. And, I felt stoked. Totally and bodaciously stoked!!!

When I got home from the hospital I began my training. I'd watch the movie Endless Summer 2 every day while eating breakfast and dinner. And for the rest of the day, I'd exercise, focusing on surfing skills.

Now the thing is, I have the perfect Thruster already. She's a lime green Hawaiian Blades with the official Hawiian State Seal and the coolest shark toothed sword on her deck. Totally gorgeous. But, I needed a longboard and a very special elephant gun. First, the longboard, then, the elephant gun when I could. And so, my quest began.

For me, the choice was pretty easy, it had to be one board, one very specific board, for it was the board that began my dreams, it is the Robert August Wingnust Longboard. 9 Foot. Red and white strips. Completely bodacious.

I ordered her a bit over a month or so ago and she will be shipped to me today!!! So, that means that sometime this week, I'll have my perfect longboard.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley