Surfing Move: 180 Hawaiian Pull Out into a No Paddle Take Off - possibly the hardest surfing combination ever

Aloha Tribe,

Well, since I just talked about the 180 Hawaiian Pull Out, also sometimes called an Island Pull Out, it only makes sense to tie it in with the next move, the No Paddle Take Off, and, with perfect timing, which is the whole point of linking the two moves together, timing the moves right so that one naturally leads directly into the next move.

This sequence is about as tricky as it gets in surfing because there are a number of variables. Obviously, you'll have to have the waves, especially the subsequent wave for the No Paddle Take Off, all to yourself, or, be in agreement with everybody to share a Party Wave, otherwise, well, you could really get in someone's way, and, nobody wants to do that. Now, here in the Wilds, where I surf, there literally is nobody in the water, especially in the Winter, and even more so, when the waves are Double Overhead or higher.

So, the key to this move, is, picking your time and place to try it. And, let me tell you, once you learn to do it, you'll just have to quest for it again and again and again.

Essentially, here's how it goes. You do the standard Hawaiian Pull Out, modify it into my 180 Hawaiian Pull Out, then, as you ride over the shoulder, facing the shore, you  keep your board pointing towards the beach and simply allow the following wave to life you up its face in exactly the right place, that, when you reach the peak, instead of dropping out the backside since you are NOT paddling, you instead are so perfectly positioned that you drop down the face on this new wave, without once having paddled.

This is a tough series of moves to perfect, and, it takes, as I said, the perfect breaks, with the right amount or types of brahs around, and perfect timing. But, then again, if surfing isn't about striving for Stoke, then, what's the point!!! Get this move down and you WILL be stoked beyond stoked.

As a prelude to this series of moves, practice both elements individually to truly master them. Once you have the fundamentals wired, then, make them art, and, following that, link them in this beautiful harmonious expression of dancing with the sea.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Surf Move: 180 Hawaiian Pull Out

Aloha Tribe,

I love Pull Outs so much better than Kick Outs. Now sure, for most of us, we don't even think about  this part of the ride, let alone that there is a difference between these two styles of exiting your wave while surfing. Yet, to me, this part is just as important, and, just as fun, as the whole ride on any given wave.

To me, a Pull Out is a gentle curving up and over the Shoulder of the wave, whereas, I see a Kick Out as a frantic, frenetic slashing, tight cutting angular kind of exit.

That being said, the version of the Hawaiian Pull Out that so calls to my soul, involves, not only sitting as you exit the wave, but, doing it on a spinnng  board so that you end up actually facing the beach and drift backwards over the top of the wave Shoulder.

I am drawn to this style of Pull Out for several reasons.  First of all, I find it truly beautiful, graceful, soft, flowing, filled with Aloha,  and, oh so very  fun. And, secondly, it simply fits the way I see surfing, that is to say, it fits my riding style as a Classic Old School Longboard Girl as well, interestingly enough, as the way I live my life as a surfer and a member of the Tribe.

Style. That's it in a word. Surfing, to me, is about how it feels, and, the more you can embrace that beautiful sense of feeling, of sensing all that happens to you, the more you can fully enjoy your surfing.

Now, the way I learned this move, was, the way I learned most moves, simply by accident. In other words, it just sort of happened. You see, I had been spending a lot of time working on Spinning my board while sitting in the Line Up. Sure, the normal way of doing it is to propel your feet around, even if it's only a bit provided one sits way back on their board, but, what I had been working on was using my hips, instead of my legs and feet. I liked the feeling of simply using pressure between my legs as I squeezed the boards, and, then weighting either hip in order to dip the nose at an angle beneath the surface, which, when down with simultaneously lifting your tail, you, which requires you to use a combination of the inner thigh muscles on the front of your legs, as well as the inner thigh muscles on the back of your legs at the same time and in harmony with each other. This pressure of using the inner thigh muscles and your hips allows you to dip the nose of your board in either direction, which, as soon as it drops beneath the water, it begins slicing dowwards, thus, turning you in that direction. With control, one can then feel or sense the proper time to lift the nose into the opposite angle so that the nose now angles up propelling it towards the waters surface. In this way, the board can be made to spin, with no sitting back on the board, and, without propelling your legs and feet.

Sure, that was simply an exercise, and,  a stylistic experiement that for most would seem useless, but, I must say, it's loads of fun to do, and, as it turns out, it has tremendous value in various types of surfing moves such as this particular 180 Hawaiian Pull Out as well as for some super stylistic Paddle Out Reentrys. Oh, and, naturally, by the way, you have to keep your arms and hands off the board, or it would become no only way too easy to weight the board with your hands and arms, thus, so totally ruining all sense of style and more importantly, the point of the exercise, but also, by not using your hands, arms, or legs, you gain greater balance, more beauty in your moves, and, a so much greater sense of body awareness in all movement forms no matter whether you're on a wave or in the sand.

In any event, as I mentioned, that is the exercise that I had come up with and was practicing until I got it wired pretty tight. It was such fun to do.

Which brings us to the part of the story of how the move was an accident. There I was, about to exit a totally awesome wave by calmly sliding up toward the Shoulder of the wave when, just as I approached the peak, about to slide over, the wave jacked just enough to start to spin me exactly as I happened to be focusing on steering with the Nose. This, of course, spun my clockwise on a Right, as my nose dug beneath the water lifting my tail just enough to glide across the water's surface, drawing a ringlet trail with my Skeg  tracing her arcing path like a finger in a still pool. The wave itself carried me to a full 180 as I was sitting on the Deck, and I drifted backwards up and over the Shoulder, riding backwards, facing, the beach.

As with all moves I've tried, having done it once, even if but by accident, I could now, for whatever reason, replicate it again at will. At which point, naturally, I begin experimenting and honing my performance, often, coming up with even new variations on a just new variation. For example, after one can do the 180 Hawaiian Pull Out, then you can practice doing it smoother, with greater softness, flow, beauty, and of course Aloha Spirit, and this, naturally, leads to a rather casual appearing almost easy looking exit from a wave. It's a great way to end a ride, and, frankly, every Pro out there out to try it if riding smooth is their style. Naturally, the next move that this leads into in your surfing repetoire is the 180 Hawaiian Pull Out No Paddle Reentry. This, as I've mentioned in another post, requires perfect wave placement and total understanding of how the swells work, particularly at your break. To do this, of course, requires deep study of the waves of the moment, their period, their direction, cross-currents, wind, and the overall timing of your ride that lead up to the 180 Spinning Hawaiian Pull Out, so that, as you slide over the back of the wave you just rode, you are in perfect placement for this next phase.

Given the type of knowledge I received from working my board the way I described above led me to developing my version of the Hawaian Pull Out, which I just shared, as well as ultimately, to the second most difficult surfing move of all time: Spinning Pearl Outs which then lead to the rarest move in all of surfing, the Submarine Move. Now that's a MOVE!!!

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

First Time

Aloha Tribe,

I remember my first time. The first wave I rode, without, having any prior knowledge of the wave or break, in fact, I hadn't even seen it before. How could that be, you ask? Great question, and, a fun story.

It happened at Hanalei Bay last Spring on the north shore of Kauai. I had been out surfing with 8 other girls, when the coolest older guy paddled out towards me. His tactic for meeting me was unique, intersting, and, rather different. At first, he'd paddle near me, when there was a whole ocean to surf in, and he simply sit there, within half a dozen feet, simply watching me. So, I'd paddle further away from my girlsfriends, down the coast a score or more meters, only to find, him paddling along behind and next to me. I'd stop, set my board, turn to look over my shoulder for the coming swell, and, when I'd turn to face shore again, there he'd be, right next to me. Hmm, I thought, as I'd immediately lay on my board and paddel even further down the coast, further away from my girlfriends, only to find the same thing happen again, and, again. Finally, just as I was about to catch a most bodacious wave, I started to get set, and, there he was, parked, sitting his board, right directly in my path. Aargh!!! At this point, he lay down on his board, paddled out next to me and past me, saying, "come along, follow me, keep up." What an interesting introduction, I thought, as I  simply started paddling after him, wondering where he was leading me.  We stroked away from shore and into the blue. Out and out we went, then, we slowly began curving to our left at an angle away from the far distant shore. I had never been out this deep before and I tried to not think of big fish.  After about 1 1/2 to 2 miles of paddling, we started approaching what appeared to be a break. I only saw it just as we got to it,  as I looke UP, the face of the approaching wave. He told me that "this wave will be bigger than anything you've ridden so far," he new this, based on our talking while we paddled.

In those brief seconds as my board began lifting up the face of the wave, he told me that he wanted me to follow him straight up the face. So, I did. He took of stroking hard, saying "keep up," and I matched him which surprised me. Then, the wave, a loomed higher even as we climbed it, him saying...

"1. treat the wave just like any other wave you've ever surfed.

2. don't look down.

3. when you get to the top of the wave, spin your board 180 degrees, and simply let the board drop.

All that instruction came in a few milli-seconds, mind you.

With very little choice at this point, I stroked hard,matching his speed and power, then, once at the top, a distance much much more than my longboard was long, I spun my board with surprising speed and smoothness, shocking me it went so well even as I did it, and, dropped. Almost straight down. Following his advice, I did not look down and instead, simply and Popped Up, into a low crouch, my arms wide for a brief second  in my Classic style, about to lower to my sides as I began standing higher.

Having never even seen the wave before, since we had paddled perhaps nearly about 2 miles down the beach and out to get to it, I had no idea how the wave would break, so, I simply did as I was told. I treated the wave like I always did, just as my spontaneous mentor coached me to do.

I raced down the vertical face, then, upon hitting the flats, I turned into a smooth though lightning fast bottom turn, angling my board at a  dramatic angle, my outside rail rising to dance with the sky surprising me to see and feel all this happening in instantaneous slow motion.

I rode my ride out, just feeling the wave as I went, ziggzagging to play with my rails a bit and then I pulled out in a modified Hawaiian Pull Out.

And, from the top of the wave, I heard my new and spontaneous teacher shouting, "do it again,"as he sat his board directly above me on a watery mountain.

Spinning my board as I switched from seated to laying,

Paddling up the face, I spun my board again, only, this time, the wave was steeper, and, I pearled at the bottom of the face, and as my nose dipped. For a fraction of a second, I sensed doom, and I could hear my coach shouting, "don't pearl,"  as weighted my nose,  lifted my tail,  spun my board on my nose, 180 degrees, unweighting my nose and breaking it free of the pearl, and finishing the ride in a spinning whirling, 360 as the wave rode over me in a controlled pull out.

The break was Middles. The height was well well over Double Overhead. And it was my first time riding a break I had not only never seen, but never read about nor ever knew anything about it.

In a way, it was my virgin ride into the unknown. A style of riding that few probably experience. After all, normally, especially in  known reef breaks like at the North Shore, for example, we read about a break, study it, then chose to go there. Or, we at the very least, stand on the shore a minute or two and study it before paddling out.

But this time, in this wild untamed, virgin ride, I got to feel something new. And, I've kept my passion for this type of wave. Riding the unknown, unseen wave.  For me, it feels more intense this way, more feral, more rugged, more wild.  And, I've found that I like that. A lot. In fact, oddly enough, no matter the power, or size of most reef breaks, I find them, tame, or harnessed, in comparison, in that they are, for the most part, predictable. This new style of riding, for me, offers me ways to explore my surfing spontaneous creativity and in-the-moment adaptability to whatever happens. Which, after all, is what surfing, at it's core, is really all about, and, what most of us love about it to begin with.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

The Quest

Aloha Tribe,

For the next 11 days, begining tonight  in about 3 hours, but starting tomorrow, I'm on a quest of simply surfing with my old-school longboard. I do this type of exploration every year at this time, my Birthday. Surfing. Fasting. Watching and listening to the sea all night. Nothing more.

One girl. One classic board. One backpack. My bright orange VW Bug. And, the sea.

Where I'll begin? Here. Where I'll end? I never know until I"m there. The swells call,  dancing their chaos at Double Overhead, offering wild, untamed waves of unpredictable direction and unharnessed power.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

An Interesting Russian Chess Book for Surfing - Notes of a Soviet Master

Aloha Tribe,

Tonight, a cold, rainy Friday night, I am studying a rare Russian chess book by A. Ilyin-Genevsky. He was a Soviet Master from in the early 1900's and is known as the father of Soviet chess. This book focuses on his route to becoming a Master chess player and begins when he was introduced to the game at the age of 10.

The book offers 50 of his greatest chess games, and, these reveal his playing style which is both cheerful and optimistic, perfect actually, for a longboarder. Especially an old-school, Classic Stylist longboarder.

So, what is this saying? Well, one can take two seemingly unrelated things, such as chess and surfing, and, find a link between them, not only historically, as I mentioned in my previous post about chess at Sunset Beach on the North Shore, but also, in playing and surfing style, and thus, in the way one lives ones life.

There is a game in the book which warrants extreme study, namely, Capablanca vs. Ilyin-Genevsky from the Moscow International Tournament of 1925. Not, unlike watching a surf movie of one of our surfing legends such as Gerry Lopez, for example. In both cases,  you go to the Masters and study their style to absorb it into your own sense of style. And, since both Ilyin-Genevsky and Lopez both exemplify a laid back optimistic, mellow, style, to me, they are similar.

Tonight, on this dark, cold, rainy night, with the fire softly tickling her flames in my woodburning stove, I have out my magnetic travel chess set, the one that went to the North Pole, and, I'm playing through the game I just mentioned, and perhaps a few of the other 50 from the book, as I sip on some dark red wine, in the glow of the fire light illuminating my wooden chess board and wooden pieces.

Interestingly enough, the more I think of Russian chess, the more I think of my own Siberian/Mongolian heritage and links to Siberia, and, that makes me think of surfing in Siberia. A quest of mine. To play chess there, to slackline and tightrope there, and, of course, to surf there.  Hmm, it makes me contemplate a white slackline. I think I must get one.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Chess and Surfing: Going Back to 1953

Aloha Tribe,

I was reading in Matt Warshaw's book, The History of Surfing, that chess goes back on the North Shore, specifically at Sunset Beach, to 1953. The brahs then would surf all day, and play chess at night. So, I figured, why not. Since DD has me learning the North Shore breaks, I thought I'd get deep into chess, since, it's a new year.

So, I have two books on the chess legend Bobby Fischer. One is Russians versus Fischer by Dmitry Plisetsky and Sergey Yorankov, and, the other is Bobby Fischer: The Career and Complete Games of the American World Chess Champion by Karten Muller.

My plan, is to memorize, if I can, up to two games a day, mostly done at night, from the Muller book, and, study the references from the Plisetsky/Yorankov book. Combined, it should give me a great feel for Bobby's games and style. I truly love the book Russians vs. Fischer. It's incredible to read the insights from this truly deep and intense book, and, I see it as a great gift to the chess community, and thus, from my way of looking at it, to our surfing Tribe too.

If I memorize up to two games per day, in less than a year, I'll have covered all but two or three of the games. The idea, of course, will be to do my best to literally memorize them in long term memory, and thus, each day, to memorize one or  two more without forgetting the previous games. Can it be done? By some, of course, in fact, by many chess lovers I'd imagine, but, by me, well... who knows. Then again, why not try.

After all, to me, I see chess in surfing, and, surfing  in chess. The two, interwine for me and dance in a harmonious spiraling of art in a double helix kind of way, though, that's perhaps not quite the fully accurate analogy, for it's a combination of that and also sort of like the reflection in a window at night, overlooking a brightly lit room. Those two images, combined, give a living sense of what I feel when I do either art while simulanously seeing th other. Multitasking, I guess some might call it.

In any event, it sounds fun, and, if surfing, or, chess for that matter, is not fun, then, what's the point?

Now, I suppose memorizing one game a day would be more realistic, and, I don't know if I can do this, but, I wanted to at least try. For, to me, I see it as a marvelous way to improve my surfing. How, you might ask? Well, good question. By developing an analytical mind honed to a razor's edge, yet, capable of intuitive creativity. This, of course, is expressed in the way I surf. By analyzing a chess board for possibilities, I'll be teaching myself to analyze waves, where they'll break, how, and when, and with what power, more so, the predictive skills honed by chess will teach me to see patterns in the waves of what is going to happen.

And, if none of this comes to pass, so. What else does one do on dark nights, when alone on the North Shore? Well, okay, sure, there's lots, but, my surfing comes from where I surf with my home break, in the Wilds, where, I surf alone, for, nobody is there. And, thus, to spend nights in meditative contemplation in a sort of monastic lifestyle almost, seems intellectually to fit my surfing style of the daylight hours.

Interestingly enough, both internal arts, of the body and mind, then, also lead to an internalization of the soul or spirit too, creating a calmness, a mellow way of living life, which, is what the hippy girl lifestyle I live is all about anyways.

I surf alone, not through choice, but through fate. And, I surf for me. Likewise, I live in the country, in the middle of a deep forest with few about, thus, I play chess alone too, also, by fate. And as with surfing, I play chess, for me, not for others, fame, or glory, just, simply, because I love the game. Interestingly enough, my sense of spirituality, that being Shamanism and expressed as Chi Gung, is also a solitary act, followed, since I've been a young girl of 5. Few in the world follow such a path for the path of the Shaman, by its very nature, is solitary.

My hope with this perhaps unusual New Years kind of focus,  is to honor the surfers of yesteryear, who braved Sunset Beach for the first time. Surfing. Fishing. Eating simple meals. And, playing chess.

One girl, one ultralight backpack containing daily needs plus one hammock tent and one chessboard (a travel set that's gone to the North Pole), and slung over my shoulder in a carry bag, one longboard surfboard, on a quest to surf the world and play chess in some of the most famous spots of both sports.

Now, to make it more fun, with the three languages I'm still working on, namely, Hawaiian, Hawaiian Pidgin, and, Surfish (Surfer's Language), it'll be fun for me to think, verbally, in each of these languages, as I learn to express myself on the chess board, and, on the waves.

It's a spiritual quest, I'm on, that of the Vagabond, Feral Surfer, alone, and, okay with that. Searching the world for the perfect game of chess, and, the perfect ride. Both, of which, happen, at least for me, internally.

Which, is what Chi Gung, is all about, especially at the Nei Dan level. So, by bringing Nei Dan Chi Gung to my longboard and my chess board, I hope to express in new ways my love of surfing and the quest we all are on as surfers, to find out how we fit into the sea.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Surviving on a Desert Island as a Surfer

Aloha Tribe,

So, I've been sitting here with my friend, and, we've been discussing what to do if we got stranded on a tropcial island, the stereotypic desert island.

1. Build a surfboard.

Here's why. You're a surfer. And, on being stranded on some lost uncharted desert island, you'll probably die anyways before you're found, so, step one above seems the most logical step.

2. Search for the perfect break, even if it means walking the entire perimeter of the island, after all, what the hell else are you going to do since you have all the time in the world.

3. Surf.

4. Collect some water between surf sessions.

5. Surf more.

6. Maybe catch a fish or shellfish or something to eat. You won't probably have any means of making fire, since, you probably got here by accident, so, unless you're a Chi Gung master who knows how to use chi to make fire, just eat your fish sushi style, namely, raw and wiggling.

7. Work on your tan. You want to look good if you get rescued.

8. Get all the islands breaks wired. That way, when you open a surf tour to your island later, you'll be the master vagabond feral surfer of the entire island.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Surfer, Dude: Movie - Matthew McConaughey, Thank You!!! New Years Eve 2010/2011

Aloha Tribe,

Well, here it is, New Years Eve between 2010 and 2011. I just got done watching the awesome surfer movie Surfer, Dude staring Matthew McConaughey.

I utterly loved it!!!

As a Soul Surfer, the movie way so made sense to me. I could so relate to his way of seeing life. Wow, I wish I had known he was making the film, I'd have given anything to be a part of it in way, especially in writing and surfing for I so love both.

Now, the movie seems to have confused most film critics and almost all who don't surf who see it. Well, hey, that's there problem. The film was totally bodacious. It was about soul, through and through. And, if you're a surfer and you don't see that in the film, then, you need to take some steps back and think about why you surf. Go back in time and remember when you were a kook and a grom, remember when you started. And, find that lost surfer within yourself.  All you need do, is to remember and feel again, your first time. Your first time for everything. Surfing, your first wave, screwing, weed, really getting it, hanging with brahs in slightly illegal activities, all those firsts. And, then, embrace that moment as you travel through time in your life to those days, however brief they may have been, when you too were a Soul Surfer, for, all of us were there, and, within each of us, we still are there.

The movie is not a "surfing," movie per say, with tons of surfing, but it is more than that, it is deeper than that, for it is truly  a movie about surfers. And with that, what it really means to be a Soul Surfer.

I'd love to say to Matthew, "thank you!!!" And, I mean that genuinely and purely from my heart, for the film truly touched my soul. Twirls and spins of great joy.

I recommend you all buy a copy and watch it. And sure, it's not about radical thrashing, but who cares. It's about something important, something that so many of us out in the water have lost, it's a movie about what surfing really is about. The ride. The stoke. The waves. Love. Weed. And Brahs.

In presenting Soul Surfers, the movie got it right. Matthew had one board, and, one awesome set of stripped boardies (or as they'd simply call them on the North Shore, shorts). It's funny how we've named  jams (originally named from pajamas, by the way), boardies, and baggies, and now, we simply call them shorts. The thing is, for the legends out there, one used to have just one pair back in the day, and, you wore them until they fell off from falling apart. They were so individual, you could tell a brah from his shorts. Just as you could tell him from his board. And, his style. That's when Soul Surfing was Soul Surfing, and, this movie captures that so awesomely. Sure, there's surfers out there who might not like the movie because they'll say it doesn't have enough surfing, or, perhaps even that the surfiing doesn't match their current modern aerial thrashing style, but, if that's how you feel, then you so don't get what Soul is all about. And this movie has it. The movie has the single board, the single pair of shorts, the Surfish Language, the bounding of surf brahs, in fact, the movie was even made that way, that is, Matthew got a bunch of his long-time friends together, brahs he'd know for a lifetime, and they made the movie. Just like the Old-School surf movies were really done. So, bottom line, I say this movie is so much deeper than almost everybody seems to get. And in that, lies its magic. For, truly, those who need it, at the time they see it, in the way they see it, will find this movie, and more so, they'll get it.

I'm so glad this is how I spent my New Years Eve, because watching the movie inspired me to look at my surfing with fresh eyes, to feel my rides even as I write these words. I feel as passionate about the surf this very second as I ever have, and, I have Surer, Dude movie to thank for it. So, Matthew, with full passion, "thank you!!!"

I wish with all of my heart that your movie had made you millions. But, you know, it's done something more, for it has offered Soul Surfing with fresh stoke to all who watch it and understand what it's really all about. And one can't help but smile with genuine sparkling eyes at that!!!

Oh, and, speaking as  a girl who's studied Chi Gung since the age of 5, and, is a Surf Shaman able to call waves, I loved the scenes of Matthew's character fasting, making his bonfire, sacrificing his board, and dancing, all to call the swells. For, all of that has been done by surfers, and is still being done by Soul Surfers, and more so, when you really know how to do it, that stuff really works. In fact, it actually would be fun to share how it works if anybody is interested. It could be explained in Surfish terms, Shamanistically, and, most easily with Chi Gung for the words are there. The point is, they got it right when they made the film. We, as members of the Tribe, through us all being surfers, have our own culture, our own language, our own gods, our own rituals, and, this movie touched upon these so beautifully. This movie is deep, brahs, and, it so truly can bring you back to the very core of  Soul Surfing.

Here's what you do. Get your brahs together, and, it's NEW YEARS DAY today so go surf. It's a moral imperative!!! And then, tonight, gather up some beer and weed and one grinds (I'm grilling venison and fish tacos for all who happen by, so, come, all are welcome, simply come to the wilds), all your brahs, and some beach bunnies, and find a place to hang, watch the movie, and let go. We as surfers can change the world brahs, like we once did before. Surfing needs us. The world needs us. It's time to go back to the days of the Soul Surfer, to unite as a Tribe again, to stop our silly local beefs and embrace one another, just like in the movie, for that too was shown (with a breakfast burrito). Let the world fuck itself in this new year and as for all of us, lets go back to screwing at the beach, covered in sand and surf wax.

God I loved this movie. Now, I gotta go surf!!! I'm so excited about the New Year coming, 2011 is going to be utterly and way totally bodacious,  and you know something, for me at least, it all began, right here, right now, tonight, watching Matthew's movie.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

The 12 Days (14) of Christmas Surfing for Style

Aloha Tribe,

Well, today is the 1st Day of Christmas. If you've been able to follow along, hopefully you were able to surf on Christmas Eve (yes, at night, at Midnight, under the Full Moon - with a Lunar Eclipse, I might add), Christmas Morning (at the very least on Christmas Day), and, now, today and for the next 11 more Days, leading to a total of 14 Days of Christmas Surfing during the "12 Days" of Christmas. As most know, Christmas Day counts as Day 0, yesterday was Day 1, which makes today, Monday, Day 2.

The idea, is to pick something that, to you, is important to work on, a great thing, especially at this time of year, is, Style.

You see, the Holiday Season, regardless of ones faith or religion or anything of the sort, is a great time to focus one personal growth, and, as surfers and members of The Tribe, we all would naturally, by our very love of the sea, gravitate towards honing our surfing, for, what else is there, eh brahs?

And, what could be an overall greater sense of surfing sense, than,  Style.

Thus, I'm focusing each day of the 12 Days of Christmas, all 14 of them, on working on making my Style softer, more graceful, smoother, more relaxed, more feminine (you boys don't have to focus on this one of course, unless, you are truly comfortable with your sexual identity, naturally - in which case I say, "go for it" for it truly would greater mellow out your surfing), more flowing, more mellow, more hippy girl (yes, I hug waves, sing to sea turtles, dance with dolphins, and genuinely smile with twinkling eyes at all fishes - yes, even those big fish we tend to not really want to think about), and, in a single word, more beautiful.

To do this, I'm doing a number of things in my training, which include, more or less all of the balance type training I've been doing for quite some time now, but with the added focus and attention to making every subtle body shift as smooth, natural, flowing, and beautiful as possible. In this way, as my dynamic balance adjusts while surfing, it offers me total control of each and every fraction of a mm of movement and fraction of a second of time. This type of training teaches you to "slow time," by actually allowing you and forcing you to think quicker, much much quicker, up to a rate of about 1/25 of a second as far as reaction time goes. Technically, you'll learn to move, think, and sense even faster than that for you can train yourself to work within that 1/25th of a second as a form of performance art, allowing creative expression of each moment. This, of course, offers then all kinds of potential and artistic experimentation on the waves, in ways you've not ever thought of before.

The key to this focus of Surfing Style for lightning fast movements with seemingly time stopping awareness, is, slowness. Extreme slowness in your training. Which involves truly feeling and sensing each and every fiber of your muscles as they pull and relax with your movements. For those who love this kind of experimentation, what you are learning here, is, Chi Gung Surfing Style, for, in such a time stopping sense of awareness and focus, you can then go deeper, much much much deeper, to the inner level of your bodies energy flow. And that, brahs, is where the real fun begins!!! For, it is the first step.

Many, of course, most actually, even with a lifetime of surfing, will never reach this lowest or first step, but, for those in-the-know, namely, those who hope for and dream of such surfing mastery, such a quest could be  not followed, for it draws and sings to the soul of the Vagabond Feral Surfer with such intensity, that it can't be ignored. Hmm, hopefully there wasn't too many double negatives there for that to make sense, goodness. Bottom line, the more you do it, the more you do it, and, the more you have to do it.

Eh brahs, even if you've not been doing this kind of surfing for the last 4 days (including today), there's no reason to not start right now!!! And, if you can't surf every day, hey, that's cool, surf as much as you can. And, when you're beached, simply work on your Style in the sand, in your yard, in a park, or in your home. Wherevers brahs.

I just got off a several hour slackline session, where I focused on my Pop Ups and my Style for Dropping Down the Face before the Bottom Turn, while on the slackline, Pretty way awesomely bodacious fun that!!! You all so must try it. Get a slackline, or, a rope, or, even as the Father of Bouldering John Gill taught me, use a chain, and, suspend it between two supports like trees, boulders, your car and maybe a trained elephant (naturally, it would be a tamed one that loves playing in this kind of way) or whatevers, and try it. Working the chain is way Old-School when it comes to slacklining, incidentally, and it was John Gill who developed it about 20 years before modern slacklining was invented with the mountain climbing webbing that we all use today. Slacklines, by the way, are great ways to train because they offer dynamic motion which presents you with a myriad of opportunites for play and experimentation.  And, if you want something even tougher, try soft roping also called loose roping on a loosely hung rope, now that's real fun brahs!!! Slacklines, by the way, are typically tensioned so they are level with the ground prior to you stepping on them, whereas a loose rope is suspended like the letter U, only not as dramatically, of course, and more stretched out a bit, depending upon your anchor points, naturally, you could, if you like think of it as looking like a super bodaciously aweome smile, which, is how I love to see my loose rope. I'm into smiles I guess. It comes from truly living and dancing in-the-moment, each and every second of life - which, for me, came about because of my several near-death accidents at various times in my life.  Whatevers. Smile at the world, it's a lot more fun. And, you know, it'll make your surfing much better too!!!

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Merry Christmas!!! GO SURFING!!!!!!

MERRY CHRISTMAS TRIBE,

Now, go Surf!!!

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Happy Winter Solistice!!!

Aloha Tribe Happy  Winter Solstice!!!

Today is the Winter Solstice, a truly magical time of year, in fact, one the most magical and beautiful. So, grab a fish taco for breakfast along the way, head to the beach, wax up your board, and, go surf!!! And let the rest of the world watch, dream, and wonder, but for us, it is a day to live!!! Here, now, this day, for this is the day we have!!!

And tonight, after a day of crazy surfing the wild freezing waters, it'll be time for a  true Scottish celebration!!! No matter where you are in the world, all join in. And hey, just eat your local food, all's ono so no worries!!!

As for me and all who find me secret location today, it's loads of Haggis. Neeps. Tatties. Baked Beans. Fish Tacos (of course, it's a moral imperative), Steamed Green Peas,  Eggnog Pound Cake with chocolate ice cream and chocolate Sauce,  and, all the best Single Malt Scotch you can drink!!!

Come one, come all, it's a Scotthish bash on the loneliest beach on the Scottish North Atlantic. Just look for the "crazy" girl out surfing without a wet suit (it's a Winter Solstice sign of good faith and hope for the coming year as a way of celebrating the beauty of the rising Sun this morning). A quick dip and surf in the frigid waters, then, a copious cup of hot hot hot extremely strong black coffee, then, toss on the wetsuit, jump on your feral vagabond longboard again (or shortboard if that is your nature),  and spend the day surfing. Tonight, the feast, dancing, wild fires on the shore, midnight trek through the Highlands to dance some more beneath the stars, and the a hike back for the Full Moon Winter Solstice Loneliest Surf on the Planet Quest!!!

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Surfer's Christmas Eve AND Christmas Day Ono Grinds from the Wilds

Aloha Tribe,

So, I've worked out my Vietnamese/French Bamboo Circus Styled Christmas Eve surfer's meal. Golly I wish and hope some if not all  of you will be around. Head to the wildest places on the planet, and, you'll find me there. Come, pull up your board, have a seat, and, feast on some awesome grinds, yah? All are welcome. Oh, by the way, the inner lining of a military poncho makes the perfect surfer's blanket, according to my surfing and watergirl mentor Darrick Doerner (DD) for Winter Surfing.

CHRISTMAS EVE SURFER'S MEAL:

Fish Tacos - as a member of the Tribe, one must always have plenty of fish tacos on hand!!!

Pork and Shrimp Bonh Mi (Vietnamese sandwiches) - with fish sauce

Pho (Vietnamese beef noodle soup) - with fish sauce

Christmas Eve Pear Tart

Chili Lime Dipping Sauce - with fish sauce

Sweet Soy Dipping Sauce - with fish sauce

White Long Grain Rice - with fish sauce

Hot Cocoa



CHRISTMAS DAY SURFER'S MEAL

Fish Tacos - Yummy :)

Vietnamese Spring Rolls

Vietnamese Sweet Soy  Dipping Sauce

Vietnames Chili Lime Dipping Sauce

Vietnamese White Long Grain Rice

Vietnamese Catfish in a  Clay Pot

Vietnamese Winter Squash with Coconut Milk

French Stuffed Rabbit

French Ratatouille

French Classic Creme Brulee

Hot Chocolate




Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Surfer's Solstice Solitude Session

Aloha Tribe,

What could be more of a Winter Solstice Surfing Solitude Session than surfing or, if you can't at least celebrating the wilds of the wilds in Northern Scotland, out in the wind beaten Outer Hebrides where only the brave dare surf alone by eating after your frigid days icy North Atlantic thrashing by grinding Haggis, Neeps and Tatties. Totally ono, eh brahs?

As for breakfast, post - Dawn Patrol: one staves off freezing to death with pounds of rashers, mushrooms, baked beans, grilled tomatoes, black pudding, white pudding, haggis, juice, cereal (oatmeal or if you're a real Scott, rough cut boiled barley, all gulped down with copious quantities of fresh icy cold milk.

Winter Solstice, a mystical magical time of the year for surfing, especially midnight surfing. This year, it'll be particularly bodacious because of the full moon at Winter Solstice.

So, wax up your stealth boards, pack a hamper loaded to the gills with hearty food, and set off for the surf of a lifetime in the wild of wilds.

Surfing with herds of hords is great fun, I'll be the first to shout that from the top of a party wave, but, at a time like the pure creative waves offered only at this time of year, when all  the seas creatures rise  to the surface  of the surfing swells, to sing and dance and play in the moonlight with any surfer bold enough to sit alone at midnight, under a full moon,  on the most magical, mysterious, beautiful night of the year.

If any of you want the surf of a lifetime, where you can truly find out who you are, and why you surf, and what the secret of surfing is truly all about, the mysteries of the sea, the songs that call us to dance upon the water, well, then you way so must seek the wilds where ever you are.

On a night like this, you are not seeking the normal breaks you typically surf day in and day out, for you don't want the crowds, nor, quite frankly, the familiarity. You want someplace new to you, someplace where you can stetch your legs on your surfboard, let your hair down, and toss your string bikini  or boardies to the sea, and surf, if even only for one wave, in your purest form of physical expression. Just you, your board, and the water. Sure, even where I surf the wilds, the water will bite deep with frigid temperatures, but no matter, Surfer Up (the surfers version of cowboy up) and do it. It's exhilerating, wildly fun, and, a true treat for all of your normally domesticated senses. Cut free your harness and reins of life and surf with total abandon.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

A Surfer's Christmas

Aloha Tribe,

Christmas is on it's way soon, in just 20 days or so, which gives me about 3 more weeks before I celebrate getting my Robert August Wingnut longboard last year. It's been an interesting year. My goal was to go from Kahuna Tuna or rank beginner, to big wave rider, in, one year. I have three more weeks about.

It's been a challenge at times, tearing my mensicus like I did, and I'm still sitting here with that, but, well, three weeks is three weeks. So, sometime in the next three weeks I'll get into the perfect wave. I had a shot at that 47 footer back about 6 weeks ago, but that's when fate stepped in that day, making me lose several weeks. But, such is life. In the meantime, my Pidgin and Surfish got to improve quite a bit, so that's a cool thing, and, I got a lot of time to work on trying to develope the perfect Watergirl body, a feat, never possible, of course, but fun anyways.

As most of the Tribe know, Christmas morning is made for, what else, Dawn Patrol surfing. And, Santa, of course. My two favorite S words.

My meal this year for Christmas is based on the theme of a French/Vietnam country vagabond circus. The reason for this, is the tightwire I might be getting from Santa, if I'm good enough. The tightwire, of course,  is to be used to help my surfing get wired tight.

So, I'm not fully sure yet what the exact meal will consist of, but it will be a combination of both French foods and Vietnam foods, both, country style.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Slacklining Helps You Think Faster: Wanna Surf Well - Think Fast.

Aloha Tribe,

Some of you may by now be getting into slacklining and bringing it to your surfing experience. If so, awesome. You see, by tightrope walking, tightwire walking, slacklining, slack rope walking, and loose rope walking, you are increasing the speed with which you can sense what is happening to your body, specifically, as it relates to balance.

This is extremely important to the surfer because in order to surf great, you need to be able to sense what is happening with your balance very quickly. The thing is, with surfing, it's not uncommon to have as much as 20 minutes or more between rides. Personally, I love the way Darrick Doerner is training me, the second my ride ends, DD has me paddle out of the path of other surfers as fast as I can by heading to the side of where everyone is surfing. Then, as soon as I am out of the way, I paddle my fastest to catch the next wave. Now granted, the reason this worked for us was because there was not a traditional lineup with lots of surfers waiting their turn, thus, there was no reason not to hustle. As such, one can catch a lot of rides. The most I got, in roughly an hour and a half or so session, was 25 rides. While I would have loved that to be even higher, at least it was roughly a ride every 8 minutes or so. In some places, like Sunset Beach on the North Shore, sometimes, one was lucky to get 3 or 4  rides for the day.

And, since a ride typically doesn't last that long, maybe an average of 8 to 10 seconds, that's not a whole lot of training time. On the other hand, on a slackline or similar rope, if you fall off, you simply step right back on. Thus, you can get a lot of balance training in, compared to surfing. This extreme amount of balance training leads to greater balance awareness, which, yields quicker balance thinking.

Here's how it works. When you're on a tightrope, it takes extreme concentration to not fall. And as such, you learn to eventually sense extremely small shifts in your balance, the more you do it. The sooner you can determine if your balance is shifting out of whack, the easier and smoother it is to maintain balance.

The thing is, what you really need to do is to learn to train yourself to perform the best that you can. If you simply walk a line or surf for that matter, mindlessly, even with years of experience, you really won't progess far. On the other hand, if you think about what you're doing, train specific exercises to help you, work on the worst things you do first until you become good at it, then work on the next worse thing, in no time at all you'll find your skills exploding.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Mysto Surfing the Wilds

Aloha Tribe,

Now, as you all know, I just love surfing culture and that includes hanging and Talking Story, whether perhaps briefly in the Line-Up or after a session at greater length.

Yet, in the Wilds, I typically surf alone. Mainly, because, generally, at least in the Fall, Winter, and early Spring, there are so few if any surfers around on the frozen beach, let alone in the sea. And so, while I am drawn to sharing and hanging and being part of the group, due to where I surf, and, how I surf, I've grown up a bit of a Mysto Surfer.

A Mysto, by definition, is a Loner. More so, even the way they surf, that is, how, the whys, where, and what, remains sort of mysterious, unusual, and, well, exotic.

The thing that makes me a Mysto, besides so few wanting to be in 20 plus foot icy cold wildly churning Closed Out by all definition swells, is how and why I surf, namely, my Chi Gung.

For most of us, surfing is simply fun. We love the ride. The stoke. The feel of walking or standing on water. Yet, with what I do, there is so much more to it than that, for, I tear such concepts apart, searching into the bowels of them, exploring and adventuring into the darkest secret places, for the Chi.

Chi is a Chinese concept, and it refers to energy. It is the energy that is within us, and, around us, just like the Force in the Star Wars movies. Only, instead of being a movie, it's for-real stuff.

Now, I don't just surf "for," the the fun feeling of Chi, but more so, for what I can do with it in helping and healing others, especially surfers. For, once one learns it, Chi Gung offers ways to learn of the ocean, such as knowing when the swells will come, and where, as well as how big. You'll sense where exactly a wave will break and what it will be like before it happens. You'll be able to sense sea creatures and sea plants of all types, knowing them by their Chi patterns, as well as, in a sense, being able to communicate with them. On a more social scale, you'll be able to heal yourself of injury, and, to heal others, of cuts and sprains, broken bones and torn ligaments as well as of many diseases. So, I see such gifts from the art as ways to give back to The Tribe. Even if, where I surf, for the most part, the Tribe generally isn't there, at least at that time, for I am drawn to the wildest of seas, the coldest of climates, the most whipping rains and icy snows one can experience.

Now sure, I do love the North Shoe. For, what is not to love about Oahu. And, I go to Hawaii whenever I can, but, have yet to move there. I suppose, in the near future, I will make the leap, but for now, it's the Wilds that holds me, draws me, shapes me, teaches me, of her secrets and ways of surfing her wild seas.

When I surf, I'm not out to surf every single wave, frantically dropping down anything and everything coming my way, instead, I wait for the right wave. And, the right wave does not necessarily mean the biggest or steepest or most dangerous, it simply means, the right one, at that time. The one that calls to me.

In Hawaii, on the North Shore, I listened to the beautiful sea turtles. As odd as it sounds, they would show me exactly where the next wave was going to break, the wave they wanted me to catch, and, I'd paddle over to where they broke surface and made eye contact with me, sending their Chi to me, and, I , to them. And it was a magical feeling moment, a form of communication, a mental telepathy between girl and animal, that most would probably think is not even possible, yet, there it was, and, every time, the sea turtles were exactly right, for they had broke surface exactly, precisely, at the best spot on any particular wave prior to it coming. From this, I learned to sense the waves, to feel them, to know what felt right and what feeling right felt like.

Along this line, I learned to call the waves. Out of a flat sea even. Now sure, I could go into the extreme details of how to do this, but it's rather complicated to present them all at once, so, the way it basically works is that you work with the Chi, as I've been saying, and you create a Yang or energetic collection of water and wind, out there. With this intense focus on a single spot, one swirls or spirals the Chi tighter and tighter and tighter, just the same way you do it when you're healing a broken bone. And you keep doing it, packing the Chi into this distant tiny singular spot, until, it is overwhelmed with energy. And then, you can feel it, sense it when it is ready. And, you track it with your eyes and senses, feeling it come closer, until finally, the wave breaks right where you are exactly. I did this exercise with my Surfing Mentor and Watergirl Mentor Darrick Doerner (DD). We were having small 2 foot or so waves, wave after wave after wave, and he was so hoping for the seas to rise up so his student, me, could get a nice ride and some great practice. And he told me he wanted a 6 foot wave to rise right before us, literally touching the tails of our boards, and rise to 6 foot high and to break right on his head!!!  His head, of all things. "I want it to break right here, right on my head, right now." And so, sitting on my board, I extended my arm towards the distant sea, pointed my palm, for the center of the palm is one of the 5 major spots on the body for Projecting and Absorbing Chi, and, I called the wave, telling him, it would be here in moments. And, the wave came, and right at the tails of our boards, it rose above us as we sat there, and it lifted our tails and then, it broke, right on DD's head.  Literally. As that was happening, I dropped down the face, had a nice little fun ride, and quickly paddled back out as  DD always taught me to do, ready to catch the next wave. And there he was, sitting there, my Mentor, looking, not impressed. Now, I was ecstatic, I was so stoked, I expected he'd leap off his board with excitement, and all he did, was look at me and said, "I was hoping for an 8 footer." I loved his understatement, for as a Teacher and Mentor, that is exactly what I hoped he'd do, at least, deep within my heart, because that's the kind of thing you'd get in martial arts training.  Once, I trained in Monkey Kung Fu, and my Sifu told me to leap as high as I could to try to grab some berries. I leaped hour after hour, day after day, trying to get the exact bunch he had pointed out for me, and, one day, they were within my grasp. And as I  came to the ground with the berries in my hand, expecting he'd be stoked, he simply looked at them like it was nothing, pointed higher in the tree and said, "now, pick that bunch."
For me both Mentors are the perfect kinds of teachers for my style of learning, they push me, drive me, call me to go beyond anything I could imagine, yet, have loving kind hearts and great senses of humor.

My point is, using Chi, I was able to call that wave, to fall directly on DD's head, exactly where we sat, exactly as high as he said, exactly when he asked me to show him how I did that.  And it's episodes and adventure like that which make me a Mysto Surfer.

I truly love being part of the Tribe, part of the group, I just love social interaction of every kind, yet, I have grown up on the outside, in the Wilds, not even on the road where one choses the path of left or right, but instead, bushwacking out in the loneliest and wildest of places. Unusual for many people, especially for a girl I'd imagine, but, simply the way it's been for me, due to circumstances.

It was even this way, back in Grand Haven, Michigan, during High School, long after I had made my first board, and surfed those cold waters with such joy. I wanted to surf with all of my heart, like the boys there, but, I was the girl. The girl with the funny looking home-made board, without even the sense to wax it at first, silly kook that I was. Such tales told about earlier in my blog in two sections or so. At any rate, I was a Mysto then, just as I am a Mysto now, not because I want to be, but, because, I am. For I know nothing else.

When I look at a surfboard, I'm not concerned with fancy boards, but with the energy of the board, like who made her,  how was she shaped, how are her lines and as such, my mind drifts to how such lines will dance with the ocean. I can be lost for hours, exploring a single board in a surf shop or at a shapers.

It's funny, life. We're often so drawn to that which we aren't or to that which we don't have. I suppose, to some, my style might seem exotic, or at least a bit different, and as such, it's possible there might be some who'd think such things are rather groovy. Yet, for me, to be part of The Tribe, to be in the Inner Circle, that to me is where the magic is. In the smiles and laughter and talk of others, in sharing their joy in watching them surf and surfing with them, and, in those special times, in their touch. Yes, my heart longs for such moments, I admit that. Such simple joys draw me.

Yet, my soul calls me to surf the wilds, to seek out the toughest places on the planet to get to, not for the adrenaline rush, for that is nothing compared to the feeling of Chi, but, for the Chi of it.

At the moment, I am thinking much of Vietnam. Hoping to learn the language at Christmas time by, if I am so blessed, getting one of those Rosetta Stone cd collections of learning Vietnamese. I love languages, especially the three I focus on,  namely Hawaiian, Surfish, and Pidgin. But now, I want to add Vietnamese to the list. For I am being called there. To surf, and, to explore and share my Chi. Of course, once there, I'm sure I'll find those places where few go, not because I intentionally seek them out, but because I sense them, feel them calling, and, as a Mysto, I can't resist their siren song.

And, what is a Mysto Surfer? Well, it's simply someone like me, who surfs mostly alone, even when in a group, who surfs for their own reasons. Reasons, that few would understand let alone care about. The Mysto Surfer is a rebel in a world of domesticated surfers, a wild one in a sea of acceptance to the rules and norms, a link back to the times of the Vagabond Feral Surfers of yesteryear, surfing, for deep personal reasons that even if they could be explained, probably, wouldn't be.

Interestingly enough, in my case, surfing as a Mysto comes about not only because for the most part nobody is generally around, especially in the worst of the Winter, but more so, quite frankly, I'm rather shy. Sure, I may write freely at times, but, in person, I'd probably be that girl, over there, absorbed in waxing her surfboard perfectly before each session, seeking, in the case of waxing, not simply to get wax on the board in a hurry, but more so, finding the spirituality and depth as well as historical nostalgia and Tribal memory of applying wax in an almost sacred kind of matter, truly, really caring about what I'm doing. And, that's the way of my surfing too. I explore each aspect of it, even while I'm riding a wave, pushing my boundaries, learning who I am and what I can do, learning from the sea and my board, all, lost purely in the love of the moment.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Thanksgiving Surfer's Bash 2010 brought to you from The Wilds

Aloha Tribe,

So, Thanksgiving was awesome. The waves in the morning for all those able to surf the traditional pre-Thansgiving Dawn Patrol Appetite Builder were a perfect  NW magic surf.

The full days food ideas came favorites from, for the most part, truly awesome surfers from all over the planet.

Out here, in the wilds, the day of feasting began with Mike Doyles recipe for Huevos Mexicanos. In addition, we had Sam Bleakley's Fruit Salad with Honey Spiced Yogurt. With this, was simply a few extra plain bananas, which, many surfers consider the perfect surfer breakfast.

Lunch was non-existent due to an overall feeling of an awesome days mellowness of simply watching the sea.

Much later in the day, in the early evening actually, after rewaxing boards with fresh wax (I love the smell of fresh Bubblegum Wax, what can I say?), stowing gear, and just hanging, it was time to lay out appetizers.

For appetizers, we had a recipe from Sofia Mulanovich for Peruvian Ceviche. We also had Sushi, Sashimi, and Darrick Doerner's favorite - Hawaiian Poke.

Talk Story was a huge part of the day, and following leisurely nibbling of appetizers, it was time for the Main Course.

For this, we had a recipe from Ian Cairns for Garlic and Rosemary Lamb, Ben Dunn's Sausage and Crock Pot Stew, and my own recipe for my style of Baja Fish Tacos!!! Okay, fine, I'm partial to those, after all, I practically live on them almost every day, along with a bit of fruit (mangoes, papayas, pineapple, bananas).  With this, we had a recipe for Mango Salsa from Bruce Irons, as well as his version of Fish Tacos (one can never have too many kinds of fish tacos - for a surfer, it's a moral imperative).

As Sides to go with the Main Courses, there was Gerry Lopez's awesome Brown Rice with Teriyaki Sauce (this is probably what I had most of), and Donald Takayama had a recipe for Surfer's Choice Clam Chowder which was to die for.

And, to top it all off, in Memory and Honor of Andy Irons, we made Andy's famous Chocolate Brownie Supreme - which, I must add, was pure magical yumminess.

Naturally, at a surfer party, there HAS to be beer, in fact, some consider the perfect Surfer Thanksgiving as, beer. Yep, beer. Surfer food in a bottle.

Our beers of the day were Longboard Lager,  Corona Extra with limes, of course, and Fat Tire. The plan was for endless bottles of Jamaican Red at midnight along with our weekly Midnight Cubano Sandwiches over endless games of Jamaican Dominoes and Cuban styled cigars (Jamaican Dominoes is  the version where you gamble with poker chips on each play - much fun and a game I love).

All in all, a perfect day. Everyone around had tons of food, much Talk Story, lots of laughter and joking, super waves, and just pure holiday magic. I hope that all of you had as much fun for your own Thanksgiving, and, no matter where you are in the world, remember, as surfers, we all belong to The Tribe, and, for us, every day there's surf is a day and reason for thanksgiving, so, I hope that all of you could celebrate in true surfer style, Especially, with the beer, of course.

Special Thanks to Nava Young for her most excellent surfer's cookbook Surf Food: The Ultimate Surfers  Cookbook. Ride on chica!!!

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Surfer's Thanksgiving Coming Soon

Aloha Tribe,

Thanksgiving, here in the U.S. is coming in a few weeks, and, this year, I'm doing a Surfer's Thanksgiving. My whole meal will be planned around foods that famous surfers from all over the world have loved. I'll be using surfing food instead of the "traditional," Thanksgiving grinds.

I'll keep you posted on my menu plans as things get closer.

That being said, my surfing and Watergirl Mentor, famous big wave surfer Darrick Doerner (DD) has shared his traditions with me of sweet potatoes, raw fish - I will prepare sushi, sashimi,  Baja styled ceviche (my favorite) and poke to honor DD, gravy, and apple pie, all of his favorites, so, they will all be part of my Thanksgiving Meal, along with the rest I am planning.

Naturally, one of the traditions for  Thanksgiving, for surfers that is, is to surf Thanksgiving morning. For a surfer, it's a moral imperative. So, no matter who you are, no matter where you are in the world, for this Thanksgiving Day, even if it's not a tradition you normally practice, why not head to the beach for some waves and just give thanks anyways. Thanks for all the great surf you've had and all the great surf you hope to have. And, simply offer that thanks to whoevers.

Personally, I love the idea of making a ton of food, bringing it to my local break, and, just setting up a campfire with tons of hot food for any surfer to feel free to dig in, Talk Story for a spell, then, hit the swells again with a fully tummy. Then again, living in the wilds like I do, that might mean I'm sharing my food simply  with the local wildlife, but, hey, whatevers. When it comes down to it, it's the thought, I guess. I love sharing with the Tribe, to me, that's a big part of what surfing is all about, each of us watching each others back at all times, sharing what we have, hanging and talking story, surfing together, and, just being.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Gibbon Slackrack for Balance Practice

Aloha Tribe,

I got an early Birthday present last night. It's the Gibbon Slackrack for slacklining indoors. It's a way totally  awesome  portable steel rack that holds a slackline. I do not know it's exact weight, but I'd gues maybe 70 pounds or so. You can tension the line as tightly or loosely as you would like and it can hold any type of webbing or rope, though the way it is made, it is specifically made for Gibbon slackline products, of course. To use something else, like your own webbing, or a rope, you simply tie it on rather than use the ratchet system for a Gibbon line.  The rack is 10 foot long and about a foot high. The base is gray and the end supports are a sort of magenta, it's rather pretty.

I have it set up in my Surfing Room. I really love it. It's great practice for slacklining, and the skills you learn can certainly apply to surfing. Regarding surfing, on a slackline, you are developing all of your balance muscles, so, having something like this lets you practice in any kind of weather and at any time since it's just in your home. It can break down into two 5 foot sections (I'm simply guessing but maybe 35 pounds each perhaps) for taking to a park or wherevers, it easily fits inside of both my Subaru Outback Sport and my new model turbo VW Bug, thus I can bring it on surfing trips for those times when I'm not camping and doing outdoor slacklining but instead, staying in a nice hotel and want to slack in my hotel room.

If you want to simply practice slacklining, this product can do anything you'd like. You can walk, bounce, stand motionless meditating, or even do slackline yoga on it. Or my favorite, of course, slackline chi gung. In fact, here it is about 1:30 AM and I'm still practicing on my slackrack. The balance possibilities are endless.  For example, regarding surfing, you can lay on it and paddle, it's high enough, then, sit, as though you were in the line up, then, paddle again with wave catching speed, pop to your feet, and, practice your surfing moves. Sure, it's not a board, it's a slackline, thus, it doesn't have the width a board had, yet, surfboards have stringers, and, knowing your stringer perfectly is what surfing is about. I've found that slacklining has dramatically improved my surfing by cutting off years of training, and, likewise, my surfing has radically helped my slacklining.

It will be interesting to spend a lot of time on the slackrack, like I do on my NOHO Surf Balance Trainer when I do my Silver Surfer Training Camp sessions. With my longboard on my NOHO, I spend as much time on it as I can during such training camps, and, likewise, I plan to do the same thing on this slackrack, simply hanging on it for hours at a time, ever increasing that time limit. I want to make it so comfortable that it is home to me, just like my longboard has become due to my Silver Surf Camp training I do so often. With my surfboard, I want to know every millimeter of it, and, I want the same for my slackrack. I want to know what it can do, how I can push the limits, where I can go with it and what mystery awaits me, what hidden treasures it holds within.

This is a great product for keeping your slacklining skills honed to perfection, especially also, if you are using it to keep your surfing in perfect shape.

I highly suggest one studies Chi Gung and bring it to the slackline  and, your surfboard for it will open doors of exploration in ways you've never imagined, offering new moves, increased balance, and greater freedom in truly expressing yourself physically.

Since the slackrack is so adjustable, you can, of course, tension it up like a traditional slackline, that is to say, the line is tensioned "straight," and then it sags when you walk on it. Or, you can use cavellettis and tie your line off, if you like, thus making your slackrack more like a tightrope line. Or, if you prefer, which is way fun I must add, you can simply tie your webbing or, as I prefer, manilla rope, loose, and thus have a loose rope or soft rope system, which is especially interesting if you're interested in Chinese Soft  Rope Penetration Arts. Thus, if Chinese Single Bamboo Pole Drifting is in the future for you, this is a great way to practice for that too. Drifting, by the way, rocks, and it makes SUP (Stand Up Paddle) which is so all the rage in the States now, seem rather calm and easy and, well, sorry SUPer's but, dull. There's just so much more you can do on a Bamboo Pole that offers such a greater challenge for those who love such things. Shooting the rapids, instead of in a kayak like the local boys do, try it on a bamboo pole, you'll not only turn heads but also hearts yearning for adventure.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

The Perfect Longboard Car: VW Bug vs. Subaru Outback

Aloha Tribe,

So, I imagine that a lot of you dream of finding the perfect car for your surfing sufaris. And naturally, there are many cool vehicles that fit the bill, after all, we all need and love something different.

For me, I have, as I have mentioned, two cars. One is a new model  VW Bug, bright orange, orange hubcaps, black and orange leather interior and steering wheel, turbo model. She's cute!!! I even have a safari rack I mounted on her roof above the sunroof. It's sort of like a metal cage that sits up there, capable of holding anything and everything.

With  my VW Bug, I can get my 9 foot longboard  (plus a second one if I wanted too) inside of the car. I simply take the headrests off the passenger seat and then fold the passenger seat down and, I also take the headrests off the back bench seat and fold it down too. Then, I simply slide the board in through the trunk, resting the nose of the board on the dashboard of the passenger side, and the tail of the board at the end base of the trunk. Granted, with this setup, I can be the only one in the car, but, that's cool, my friends have cars anyways, and besides, when you're heading out for Dawn Patrol in the dark of night, it's fun to have a caravan of vehicles filled with surfer brahs all following each other for a day of surfing.

There is room in the car, by the way, for pretty much as much camping gear  (plus slacklines and slackropes as well as my NOHO Surf Balance Trainer), as I'll need for even extended trips of several months. As it turns out, I don't need the safari rack on top of the car, but, well, it makes the car look like a true Baja Bug, and, I so love that image.

My other car is a Subaru Outback Sport. She's bright fire engine red. With this car, I also can get my 9 foot longboard (easily with a second 9 foot longboard if I wanted) literally inside of the car, basically doing exactly what I did with the  Bug. I simply fold the front and back passenger side bucket seats down, do not have to remove the headrests, and, still have room for a passenger behind the drivers seat, plus, enough gear for several months of camping also including enough slacklines, slackropes and such to share with anybody who wants to try, and my NOHO Surf Balance Trainer.

So, when there are times that I might want to have your boards safely in your car, either of these vehicles way totally can do this. On the other hand, I always loved the look of my longboard on top of my car, fin forward, adventure to the wind. It presents sort of a cool girl-of-action kind of look that appeals to my spirit and sense of adventure and taste. Besides, in the case of the VW Bug, it's kind of fun to have a surfboard on the roof on top of my safari rack, people who see it seem to love the look.

Oh, while my VW Bug is a turbo model and thus goes faster, my Subaru Outback Sport has All-Wheel Drive thus it can go anywhere, snow mud, ice, sleet, rain, whatevers. And, being a cold weather surfer, surfing in the worst the Pacific Northwest can throw at a girl, such a feature is rather awesome to know that no matter what, I can always make it to the beach regardless of driving conditions.

Either car would be perfect for anybody. It's then simply a matter of style. For me, I love them both. In warm weather, like the Summer, it's my VW Bug for sure, for what could be cooler than that, a bug with a few longboard surfboards and an elephant gun and perhaps a thruster all strapped on top, using, by the way, Baja straps, those are those extra wide, extra thick, extra strong ones with huge strong steel buckles, that, if you''re a Baja girl, you just HAVE to have. And, when the Winter storms rage and the seas rise to near 50 foot like they did a week ago, how are you doing to see me get to my surfing break out in the wilds, well, in my Subaru Outback, but of course, for she WILL get me there for those epic waves when it really counts.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley