Wave Thickness

Hello Tribe,

I've been thinking about wave thickness all morning. And, how it relates to surfing and reflects surfing and more so, what we can do with it.

Thick waves, naturally, have more power. Way more power. And as such, what can we learn from that? For one thing, it allows us to feel easier. It, penetrates us more, thus, the feeling is more inside of us than on a thinner, weaker wave.

Yet, paradoxically, does that make thick waves better? Of course not. Merely, different. More so, from the perspective of wave sensation, the smaller, thinner waves actually allow us greater exploration into our own inner world of surf sensations. In fact, the more subtle the experience, the stronger one grows in their ability to truly feel a wave.

How can this be? Well, it all comes down to sensory awareness. It's in a sense, the yin and yang of wave sensations. Thin waves, yin, allow us to be more receptive. They require greater mastery to truly embrace all that they have to offer. Thick waves, on the other hand, hit us all at once with their power, thus, they are easy to feel. Now granted, for most of us, such overwhelming displays of power stoke us instantly, for we become inundated by the shear magnitude of the thick waves energy as it explodes into us and through us. Giving us, instantaneously, an overwhelming sensation of pure power. Yet, the more we experience it, the more we need next time to have the same level of experience, thus, we always seek bigger and thicker waves to merely equal the experience we've had before.

From this perspective, the more we ride a given break, the more we get to intimately know that break, feeling it within ourselves, thus, able to sense smaller and smaller details each ride. This creates the feeling that the break becomes "easier," to ride with experience, and, in a sense, using broad strokes, this is correct. Yet, and here is where art comes into the picture, from the perspective of truly embracing the depths of familiar waves, a truly magical thing happens, we realize, over time, that our experiences are endless, each ride offering us greater depth with which to dance.

Yet, few of us go there, I'd imagine. For most of us, we simply get on the wave and ride. And, there's nothing wrong with that. It does, after all, create a joyful exhuberance, which is really what stoke is all about.

But, oh my, there is so much more out there. For all of us. Whether one is a mere Kahuna Tuna like me or a true master with a lifetime of experience.

Surfing teaches us something. Something truly beautiful. It teaches us, about ourselves. And we find, in our sessions, who we are. Allowing us to live, as our ancestors did once upon a time, truly in the moment. It is to that, which I think surfing calls to all of us on a primal level. Sort of a genetic memory, in a sense. As such, surfing allows us to live, to truly live in a way that most people are unaware of. We live, in a state of being awake. Awake to sensations. And the joy that such physical sensations can bring us.

Now, I'll be first in line to say thick waves rock. I freely admit the pure unadulterated power is, penetrating. And, for a receptive girl, wow, such power is truly sensational. Yet, the point of this piece here is to say that we all can find just as much sensation in the tiniest and thinnest of waves, if we but know how. And as such, the surf, no matter the day, no matter the place, can fill us with pure ecstasy.

To the thick waves out there, I salute you. And I smile with an inner knowing of the sensations the create, at least for me. And, for the thin waves, you too draw me with your magic. For you offer the lightest of pleasureable touches, caressing me as I surf upon you, with you, as you.

It does make me wonder though, where is the thickest wave? And, what must it feel like? I'll bet its enough to make a girl scream.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley