Tuesday, September 28, 2010

Chi Shredding: Turning Your Board Using Chi (qi)

Aloha Tribe,

So, it's about time to talk a bit about Chi Gung (Qigong), and explain a bit of what it can do. The first thing that comes to mind, is, shredding.

In other words, it is possible to turn your board, be it a longboard, shortboard, skateboard, snowboard, wake board, or even a slackline (technically, you're not "turning" it but you're controlling how the line moves or remains stationary) using, chi (qi).

Now, as we all know, the way most of us turn is by weighting our toes or heels. And, of course, we use our upper bodies too, especially leading with our arms and shoulders, and, even look where we want to go.

But, there is another way. A mysto way. The way of chi surfing.

You see, the thing is, once you learn to circulate chi (qi) in your body, and, beyond your body, you can learn to weight and unweight your toes or heels, as well as the front of your board or the tail, all using, chi.

In this way, you don't have to risk losing balance since, your muscular body shifts remain, stationary. Instead, its your internal energy, your chi, that moves and flows through and around your body.

Most of you have probably seen the movie Star Wars. Well, in many ways, chi is like The Force, only, it's real.

So, imagine guerilla styled surfing on mysto waves using a mysto way. Pretty cool, huh?

Well, how does it work? That's the tricky part, where training comes into play. First, you need to learn to build up chi (qi) in your body so that you have more than enough. Then, you learn to circulate it through your torso, and, eventually, through your arms and legs. Also, initially, such training requires physical muscular effort, called, Wai Chi. But, with practice, you can use your mind to circulate your chi, using a method called Nei Chi.

With nei chi, you flow your bodies energy within and around your body, into your board, and also into the wave your riding, as well as absorbing energy or chi from your board and the wave simultaneously.

When you are at the level where you can do this with your mind, your surfing then becomes one of surfing energy, a totally unexplored, untapped, wild frontier of surfing waiting for those daring enough and interested enough to explore.

This same energy can be applied to all of the forms of training I've talked about lately, such as tightrope walking, slacklining and slack rope walking, balance training of all types, yoga, including Tree Yoga,  and of course, all board sports.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Surfing Chi Gung (Qigong) for Wave Science

Aloha Tribe,

I love the study of the sea. And, as a surfer girl, its a required subject to learn as much as possible about waves and bathymetry, storms and swells, tides and currents, water temperature and saline density, along with a host of other subjects, making it, nearly endless, which, for me, is the exciting part.

I feel truly blessed. Where I live, there are beach brakes. In fact, according to Willard Bascom in his truly  awesome book Waves and Beaches: the dynamics of the oceans surface, the shoreline here is the gentlest of any beach anywhere, which, makes it pretty cool as far as surf goes.

You see, with the reefs of Hawaii and other places, the waves are, more or less, predictable. As is, the ride. It's the first thing I noticed when I went to the North Shore last Spring.

But, with gentle bathymetric beach breaks where I call home, the waves constantly change, even from wave to wave, offering, truly incredible opportunity for spontanaity on the waves. Not at all unlike, in a sense, what Nick Muller does with his snowboard. Nick, as a snowboarder, I believe, is truly the best when it comes to smooth riding style, creativity, and adaptability, he's just utterly awesome. Interestingly enough, from what I've read, he's trained in qigong (chi gung) for awhile, which I think is pretty much way totally kills.  Everybody should study it, I believe,  if they truly want to excel in any sport or activitiy, no matter what it is, for it offers means to go beyond any physical and mental performance of any kind, there literally is that much potential.

In any event, I find the spontaneous adaptability and creativity of soul surfing to truly be the key to surfing harmoniously and receptively with any wave. And, such skills are honed in home breaks like mine, making me feel truly blessed.

Now for most surfers, why goodness, they'd not even think of surfing where I do, the waves are too sloppy, too closed out, too unpredictable, too dangerous (in the Winter), yet, for me, they're truly beautiful.

And as such, I'm on a quest to truly study them, as Willard Bascom did, in a way, that is, by hanging on the beach at every chance and truly studying with an inquisitive and questioning mind. For, in such, comes the art of performance on the surfboard, chiefly, through in-the-moment genuine playfullness.

That's the key to it all, a quick eye that takes in the environment in a flash, with a honed body that can match the slow motion type observations, with a soft gentle smile of relaxation and joy.

I love studying waves and the sea, for Surf Science so fascinates me. And, the more I learn, the more I find it offers me ideas of how to surf in new and excitingly untapped ways.


Bodaciously Stoked,


Lily of the Valley

Sunday, September 26, 2010

A Simple Manilla Rope and an Umbrella for Surfing Training

Aloha Tribe,

I've been thinking a lot about my surfing lately, and, working hard at improving it, particularly as it relates to perfection in balance, namely, through softness, gentleness, and beauty, honed by slackrope walking, on, a manilla rope.

Why a manilla rope? Because I'm a traditionalist. In my surfing. In my training. In my way of loving life. In other words, I find beauty in the "old-ways," primarily from maintaining the tradition, but more so, from the challenge of simple equipment, when one merely had to make do with what you had. I like that. A lot. For in it, I find beauty.

Regarding slackrope walking, there's an area in Central Asia, specifically in NW China called Uyghuristan, aka East Turkistan aka Xinjiang (in Chinese). And there, at an orphanage, they specialize in tightrope walking, and have, in the area, for about 400 years, I believe. What I find fascinating, is the simplicity of the equipment used. Rugged hand chopped logs for supports, manilla rope for walking on, and, no safety net. It reminds me of the Chinese martial arts movies I love where the hero always builds his specialized training equipment using local materials such as bamboo and rope. I love such training camps.

As such, I'm in the process of setting up my own "martial arts - so to speak" tightrope walking course in my yard using logs and manilla rope. I have the rope, a 50 foot section of 1" diameter 3 strand twisted manilla. Now, all I need is the logs for the supports. In the meantime, I have numerous trees to use since I live in the middle of a swamp, on a creek, in the middle of a forest.  I want the logs, simply to have the system portable. I have a place I can get them at a local rugged log bed maker in a nearby town, but in the meantime, I'll simply use 2 x 4's, which, while not fully ideal as far as romance goes, certainly can do the job.

But, for the moment, I simply use two trees, and, my manilla rope. Tying it around the trees, cinching it semi- tight, takes but moments, and I am ready.

Walking the rope has enabled me to explore myriads of minute balance possibilities, finding, within each muscular undulation, artistic depths unbound and unfathomed. Gtowth, namely, progress, seems to come in bursts. At the moment, I'm working on total muscle control, with, much to go.

In the last few days my progress has leaped with startling bursts, yet, I have much to explore, for perfection, of course in anything for that matter, can never truly be reached but always strived for off unexplored paths, bushwacking the wilds of imagination.

With my simple manilla rope, I've found a body awareness that has eluded me since my old Chinese Monkey Kung Fu days of yesteryear. Those days, of course, bring back smiles of Monkey Beds - a horizontal rope that one slept on, a Monkey Vine - a vertical rope for practicing kicks and strikes, and, tree climbing, along with ropes set at various angles for climbing, diving, and jumping, over, under, and around in uncountable patterns of mesmerizing complexity.

Compartively, my manilla rope has made my longboard seem much more stable, as you can imagine. Thus, allowing me a greater freedom of surfing expression on my quest for art and soul on the sea.

I love my surfing camp that I've created. It's a wonderfully fun place to train, with all  kinds of wild training equipment, not at all unlike my old pickpocketing training camp I used for honing my skills in that beautiful  and exciting art.

Oh, as for the umbrella, since I'm following a 400 year old Chinese martial arts kind of theme in my training camp, the umbrella I use is an all wood and paper Chinese umbrella with a straight handle. The paper is green and white, the tines are bamboo, the handle wood. It is light, beautiful in a rugged kind of way, that blends perfectly with the manilla rope I'm walking on. The umbrella, by the way, is traditional to the Chinese tightrope walking style, which is why I use it. That being said, I find it a perfect supplement to exploring shifts of air currents as they effect my balance for surfing, while, walking the manilla rope.

Bodaciously  Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Wednesday, September 22, 2010

How Slacklining and Slackline Yoga helps Surfing

Aloha Tribe,

I've been doing a lot of slacklining and Slackline Yoga lately, often, hours a day, lately, up to 6 hours a day.

Now then, some of you may wonder how such training possibly helps my surfing, after all, what's wrong with surfing to surf, right?

Well, the thing is, slacklining, let alone Slackline Yoga, is much tougher than surfer, hands down. No comparison, actually. As such, if you can slackline, then, you can surf, once, of course, you learn how to surf and learn how to swim and all about the sea and all that goes with surfing.

Walking or doing yoga on a slackline is like using the stringer on your surfboard as your balance point, the only difference with, a stringer has an additional 14 to 20 inches or so of width on either side of it to help stabalize balance, while a slackline or a slackrope, is merely the width of the webbing or rope that is used, perhaps anywhere between a half inch and 2 inches or so wide.  Thus, there is less room for error on a slackline or slackrope.

As for the movement of a surfboard, that too is easier in that the movements, whether raising or dropping the tail or nose, or raising or dipping an inside or outside rail, offer much greater room for experimentation, error, and play.

So, at least for me, I've noticed that my time spent on a slackline or a slackrope or a tightrope, tightwire, or even a pole, branch, or rock, greatly increases my awareness and my maneuverability and thus control of my surfboard. This applies, regardless of whether one rides a shortboard like my thruster  (I wish I had a twinie, I love them so, well, one day perhaps I'll somehow obtain one through cash, grace, or luck) or a longboard.

Anything regarding movements and such that can be done on a board can be done on a rope or webbing, and as such, slacklining offers truly an endless opportunity for personal growth, limited merely by your imagination, energy, and patience, after all, when the waves call surfers, the waves call and who among us can resist such a siren?

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Tuesday, September 21, 2010

Mountain Hiking while Slacklining, Tree Yoga, and Slackline Yoga for Surfing

Aloha Tribe,

Last night, I hiked my steepest local mountain. I've been doing it each day for the last 4 or 5 days.

Along the hike, each time I find a suitable rock or tree limb or tree root that I can stand on or walk on while balancing, I've been doing it.

In this way, I'm working both my endurance and balance skills at the same time. You see, climbing the mountain as quickly as I can,  naturally, fatigues my muscles. And, by constantly balancing in this fatigued state, I'm learning to find balance while my body is pushed to its physical limit.

At likely spots, I set up either my slackline or my Tree Yoga kits, which I carry in a heavy backpack to make my task even more challenging, and I work out on them, while physically exhausted.

This is dramatically effecting my surfing in a positive way even on a daily basis. Each time I train, my surfing is not merely improving but making dramatic leaps into the stratosphere.

This training idea came to me upon reflecting upon the Winter sport of the Biathalon where you Nordic Ski and shoot a rifle during your race. The skiing exhausts the body and the shooting requires perfect body control.

This training I am doing using the balancing gear does the same thing as far as sports goes. In this way, I'm training myself to surf not only the North Shore regardless of the swell size, but also to surf anything of any size, in time, of course.

In the meantime, I'll keep pushing myself constantly to improve in all ways. I want my surfing, no matter the conditions, to be perfect, more so, beautiful.

Oh, the key and secret to the whole thing, by the way, is the Chi Gung that I practice. It allows my racing heart and utterly exhausted body to be able to find perfect balance nearly instantly by calming my body, slowing my pulse, helping me to gain focus and smoothness, all in an instant. I highly recommend this kind of training to all of you who truly want to improve beyond your wildest dreams no matter your sport or activity. Good luck and have fun. Be sure to study Chi Gung, also spelled Qigong, it's the key to it all.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Monday, September 20, 2010

France: Balance Training: Slacklining, Tightrope Walking, Surfing, Pickpocketing

Aloha Tribe,

Wouldn't surfing France, just totally kill!!! As I was thinking of places to go for an upcoming trip, France jumped right to mind.

I guess it's because the most daring tightrope walker of all, Philippe Petit , is from there, namely, Nemours, and, to do him honor, since I so look up to his style of walking and balance, I'd love to visit France. Along the same note, my surfing Mentor, Darrick Doerner, is Basque, and, that's between France and Spain, so, my two favorite guys who inspire me in the balancing arts, specifically wirewalking and surfing have ties to the area.

I'd love to come to France for a few months of surfing, slacklining, wire walking, rope walking, Recreational Tree climbing, Tree Yoga, and Slackline Yoga. Naturally, from an artistic persepective, I'd also love to study the local pickpocketing there since pickpocketing for entertainment and study is an art form I truly find fascinating, especially, as it relates to balance and physical harmony with oneself and one's surroundings.

I'd love to search out the top surf breaks, the largest wildest forests for my aerial balance arts, and, the major cities for my other stylistic artistic explorations.

France, to me, is art. In all that she is and represents. I see the country as beauty, grace, harmony, and balance. Thus, it seems like a perfect place for my studies.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Surfing Iran

Aloha Tribe,

I've been studying, very closely and in great detail, the Iranian coast, especially as it relates to bathymetry and thus surfing. I'm finding that it is truly fascinating in many ways. There are numerous spots on the Arabian Sea, that, with the right storm, could produce some truly epic surf.

I love bathymetry, and, I see it as my secret to finding beautiful waves in exact locations.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Surfing Alone: A Spiritual Quest

Aloha Tribe,

Softness.

That seems to be the key to it all.

 You see, we all love the idea of finding not only a wave to ourselves, but more so, a break to ourselves, and even more than that, a whole beach to ourselves.

That's what I have in the Pacific Northwest during the late Fall, the Winter, and the early Spring. The swells, for the most part, are too large for most people, from what I've heard, too wild, too gnarly. And, the weather, to snowy, rainy, windy, and outride freezing. Yet, if one loves frozen weather with wildly abandoned winds whipping against your body, then, you'd feel right at home. As, I do.

And, since I can merely speak from my own experience, the key, as I said, seems to be in softness.

Now, what exactly do I mean by that? Well, I mean many things. For example, the more one can relax, the more your blood and bodies energy, also called Chi or Qi, can freely flow through your body, thus, interestingly enough, warming you up. As a bonus perk, such flow of energy also leads to greater flexibility, which, leads to faster muscle response, thus, greater surfing opportunities for doing what you love on your board.

In the Winter, when the winds bite your wetsuit nearly from  your body, that's yin, an ancient Chinese idea of all that is soft and dark and receptive, cold and stationary and black, oddly enough. In such times, the more one can embrace it with their full being, the more one can learn to dance with such feelings any time of the year, and, in any place, such as the nice warm tropics of the North Shore of Oahu.

Sure, you'll be highly unlikely to find a wave alone there in the Fall and Winter, let alone a whole break, or more so, an entire beach, but, one can dream. And, hey, there are always other spots like Gabon, the islands near Java and Indonesia, Vietnam, and, dare I say it, the seemingly unsurfed so far, Cambodia.

I'd LOVE to surf Cambodia. It's been a dream of mine for years. Sure, the surf might not kill, yet, just the idea of unsurfed breaks sends my heart, mind, and soul into overdrive as I pour over tour books, maps, bathymetric charts, and reports of all kinds.

Why surf alone? Well, perhaps its because of the freedom of it. For it offers the true Soul Surfer the canvas on which to paint their art.

Sure, sharing such a place with a core group of brahs couldn't be better, and, safer of course, but, daring it alone is exciting too.

There are many places I plan to surf. As I mentioned, Cambodia, Vietnam, Iraq, the Basque region of France and Spain, Germany, Switzerland - in the rivers of course, both the Arctic and the Antarctica, the Bering Straits, Malibu, Jaws, Mavericks, Grand Haven Michigan again - I miss it so, the rest of the Great Lakes - Lake Superior, Lake Erie, Lake Ontario, Lake Huron, the New England States, Scotland - oh yes Scotland - I love it so there - especially the Outer Hebrides, Ireland, England, and Siberia, to name but a few.

Will I find myself alone in these places? Perhaps, if, I chose wisely when to go. Night surfing. Summer time in some instances. During the worst of all possible swells in others. When there is Political unrest if it is possible.

I see surfing alone as a Spiritual Quest, as a time to really surf for me. It's a time to explore who I am in relation to the sea, the truly explore my journey as a Watergirl.

I would love to paddle my board, yes paddle, and surf, from Canada to Baja. Can it be done? Literally? Maybe not. But, what fun in trying. It's what, 1200 miles or so. Given 6 months, perhaps it could be done. At least, in the trying, it would be an adventure, and thus, a Spiritual Quest.

I truly love surfing with others. For I love talking story. I love being stoked for others as they surf, which is one of my favorite things to do, I get so excited for everybody. I love learning about our history, a subject I feel surfers, especially Watergirls like me, truly are obligated to thoroughly know as perfectly as possible. I love talking in Hawaiian and Hawaiian Pidgin and Surfing Language, I find all so beautiful and in talking, it so helps to have friends to talk with and share in such languages.

Yet, where I surf, there is seldom others, except during the nicest days of the Summer. It is then, that I beam in happiness. Though, when alone, I find myself.

Chi Gung, also spelled Qigong, is the secret to surfing alone. For with it, one can truly explore depths within oneself and within ones own surfing that is not possible any other way. If only others took an interest in this exotic subject, it would be such fun to share, and teach. So that others could enjoy it too. For I truly believe, that using Chi Gung, totally new boundaries within surfing performance will be reached and explored with unlimited potential. And, I find this utterly thrilling, for, such ground is ripe for exploration, virgin territory on an unmarked map, places, without even names yet.

Yes, surfing alone is indeed a Spiritual Quest. And, it truly excites me to pursue it. It is not merely the path least taken, it is, off the path, bushwacking the wilds of our surfing frontier. And, what could be more sick than that?

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Sunday, September 19, 2010

A Pleasant Day

Aloha Tribe,

Rather tiny, knee high or so. But nice. Beautiful weather. Calm. As the week goes on, bigger rides are coming, Double Overheads before the weekend which will be super.

Happy with whatevers. The smell of surf wax. A fun ride in my VW Bug. Brew and Fish Tacos in the lot. Hanging. It's all good.  Paddling. Being. Carrying my board. Watching the surf. Like I said, whatevers. Oh, and my ukulele but of course. Good swimming though. Everybody so needs a monofin and some Rockets.

Oh hey, the new Warshaw book, The History of Surfing. Way totally love it!!! I so love our tribes history. Required knowledge. at least I think so. It makes our sport richer and so much more beautiful. Personally, as a Watergirl, I so hope to memorize the book. Along with his Encyclopedia, of course, A ton of work? Of course.  Character flaw of mine. Gotta love it.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Saturday, September 18, 2010

Why Train for Surfing Rather Than Simply Surf? : Answer: The North Shore

Aloha Tribe,

Some of you, perhaps even many, may wonder why I train so hard for my surfing, rather than simply surf to surf. After all, surfing to surf is our sports natural and traditional training method.

Yet, I know myself, and, I love  pushing myself to extreme limits in any sport, whether I was training in Women's Epee Fencing for the Olympics, doing martial arts, playing Scottish Shinty, skateboarding, or, of course, surfing.

I want to be the best surfer that I can be. And, as such, I'm using my lifetime of Chi Gung training to help me, which, creates unparalled mental and physical body awarenss for surfing as well as any other sport such as snowboarding or whatevers, and by using all of the supplemental training exercises I do, whether it's lifting weights, mountain bike riding, playing basketball, Rock Running, Coastal Swimming, slackling, tightrope walking, or any of the other sports I utilize to help my surfing, I've found, at least for myself, that such physical activity tremendously increases my surfing skills, awareness, and stoke.

More so, I'm training for the North Shore. I've surfed there last Spring, and plan to go back as soon as I can. I'd like to stay for 4 months or so. Since the Fall and especially Winter swells are not only huge but also powerful, I want to be in the best shape that I can in order to surf safer, with more confidence, and, with a greater sense of spontaneous playfullness.  In addition, my goal is to surf softly, femininely, and with style and beauty.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Balancing on Manilla Rope for Ligtning Fast and Dramatic Time Slow Down Awareness for Surfing Pop Ups and Balance

Aloha Tribe,

This morning, it's early, about 2 AM or so, I used a 1" manilla rope, 32 feet long, to practice my surfing on since it was the middle of the night and pouring rather intently outside. Not that I mind the idea of surfing in the rain, nor, at night, but, I just thought I'd do some practice in my warm and dry living room by my wood burning stove.

Instead of hanging the manilla rope like I would a slackrope or slackline, I simply stretched it out on the floor across my living room. Then, I stepped onto it and began walking it, playing a game with myself that I had to keep my whole foot on the rope and that I was not allowed to wobble and touch the floor with the outside edge of my feet.

Interestingly enough, yesterday's backpacking hike and balance session seemed to have kicked my kinesthetic and proprioceptive muscles into a high degree of senstivity because I found staying on the line much easier than normal, especially since my lateral foot swaying allowance was mere fractions of an inch so that I'd not touch the floor.

After practicing a variety of walking and balancing and also rope yoga on the manilla rope, it occured to me that I could practice my Surfing Pop Ups on it too.

So, I lay down, then, popped to my feet, the game being, just like my previous game, that my feet were not allowed to touch the floor once they left the ground during the initial Pop Up.

I found that this game gave me accuracy and more so, delicacy to my Pop Ups, creating a sort of light and gentle floating kind of feeling and motion.

I can hardly wait for dawn to  bring this new training feeling to my surfing. Naturally, while a Pop Up is typically done lightning quick, especially if one rides a short board on steep, fast waves, what such training offered me was the instantaneous mental shift into super high speed clarity and mental focus, thus, dramatically slowing time, thereby offering me all the time in the world to execute my Pop Ups, which,  not only greatly added to the joy of the feeliing, after all, I've always loved this part of surfing, but more so, allowed me to instantly get in the groove for the ride.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Heavy Backpacking for Surfing Training and Balance Training

Aloha Tribe,

Yesterday, I went on my daily hike in the mountains.And I wore a moderately heavy backpack, at least for me, since typically, I prefer to travel Ultralight as a backpacker.

In my pack, I carried my Tree Yoga straps as well as my slackline kit, so that I could practice both in the mountains on my hike.

As I walked up the mountain, stopping at every rock, boulder, branch and tree, that looked promising and met my needs, I practiced balancing and walking on them. It was then that I noticed that my backpack kept my weight high on my shoulders, which, totally changed the feel and rhythm of my balancing, working my core stabalizing muscles in new and unique ways, offering them challenges as my increased weight shifted much easier and more dramatically.

I realized that using something like a backpack or a weighted vest, that I could work my balancing muscles just as though I were training any muscle in a gym, thereby making them stronger, thus, making balancing for surfing or slacklining or tightrope walking all the more easier without my backpack.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Friday, September 17, 2010

Trampoline for Slacklining Balance Training and for Truly Magical Flowing Surfing Training

Aloha Tribe,

Today was fun. I used a 14 foot trampoline and practiced my "slackline" walking steps on it. That is to say, while I didn't set up the actual slackline, I acted as though I had, and, found that the trampoline offered a similar kind of training resistance for balance training. With each step, the trampoline would jostle and bounce, offering wonderful training for my legs and balance.

As I walked, I stepped very very slowly, focusing on each step with total deliberation, as though I were hundreds of feet in the air. Such visualization makes the experience more authentic. As I'd step forward with my rear foot, thus, unweighting it, I'd move it out to the side, engaging my gluteus medius or the side buns muscle (in swimming, used in a major way for the breaststroke), and I'd hold my leg to the side, as though I were doing a sidekick in martial arts. I'd allow myself to sink into this position, standing on one foot, the other foot lifted as high as possible, in this case, about boobs high was the position that I held, and I'd hold the position for as long as it took to play a bit with the stance, perhaps, 20 seconds or so, simply for the muscular and balance training of it, focusing on deliberately letting the trampoline bounce and move as much as possible to increase the challenge.

I believe this training will DRAMATICALLY improve my slacklining and tightrope dancing skills, and thus, my overall balance, which, will make my surfing much more fluid and flowing. I can hardly wait to get into the water to see!!!

Tomorrow, I might try to get one or more of my friends to walk around and bounce on the trampoline randomly as I practice this exercise to replicate the unpredictable ripples of a wave as well as a swaying slackline. It should be grand fun.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Thursday, September 16, 2010

50 M Swimming Sprint Muscles for Surfing

Aloha Tribe,

Upon reflection, it appears that as surfers, we need both fast twitch or anaerobic speed oriented type muscles, as well as slow twitch or aerobic kinds of muscles, depending upon where each of us typically surf, of course.

As for me, I surf mostly in the Pacific Northwest, namely, Washington mostly as well as northern Oregon. Yet, on occasion, several times a year when I can for, ideally, up to 4 months at a time, I like to surf Kauai and the North Shore of Oahu. And, of course, I dream of Mavericks.

I've read that Mavs can have up to an hour out paddle, so, I'm gearing myself for that on an aerobic level, focusing on ocean swimming in as wild of seas as I can, for as many hours as I can. I believe that such swimming in intense turbulent water builds both aerobic and anaerobic muscles.

Yet, that being said, this post is about overall body look, and I'm shooting for that female version of  Bruce Lee kind of look. Ripped, shredded, lean beyond all reason, while maintaining feminine flowing curves in the right places. This being the case, since Bruce focused on explosive speed training, I'm doing that too, only, in my case, it's with swimming and paddling my longboard laying down.

Sure, I could do SUP (Stand Up Paddle) and it can be done quickly, though, for most, I'd imagine it's more of a casual kind of paddling, leading more to aerobics than anaerobics. So, for paddling, I much prefer to lay down. This develops the proper surfing muscles, and, it can be done for speed and endurance, depending upon how one strokes.

All three books are GREAT and I highly recommend each of them!!!

I'm using three books to help me achieve my desired look. One is...

1. Steve Smith's Military Workout  Series: The Coast Guard Helicopter Rescue & Navy Search and Rescue Swimmer Workout by Steve Smith.

   With this book, I am studying a variety of training to be able to swim in wild and huge waves under any conditions.

2. Sprinting: A Coach's Challenge by  Samuel James Freas.

    This book is teaching me about how to swim really super fast, like lightning in the water.

3. Swimming Anatomy by Ian McLeod.

    And this book shows me exercises to develop specific muscles for various swimming strokes to achieve the proper look and strength.

Using these three books, I am transforming my body into that of a true Watergirl, with my goal of being capable of swimming in any sea conditions no matter the swell size,  to paddle into any surfing conditions on my surfboard, and, well, to look as cute as possible. Sure, the last one is just for fun, but, why not?

With this plan in action, I have chosen the 50 M Sprint to be my swimming length of choice. I believe that this distance with give me the proper power to be able to paddle into anything I'd hope to paddle into. I know the current limit is about a 30 foot face. So, I want to push myself with speed training to see just what I can do and if I can ever achieve this or, dreaming, even paddle into larger surf?

I think that speed paddling while laying down not only is great for catching waves more often but also, for getting out of the impact zone as quickly as possible as well as also being able to paddle up huge faces with confidence and proper timing.

The Fall is upon us and soon, huge swells will be hitting the Pacific Northwest, with up to 27 foot or triple overhead towering heights last Winter and early Spring. Where I surf, there seems to be few in the water in the Winter and early Spring, in fact, I typically was not only the only one in the sea but also the only one on the beach for miles around. Dangerous and silly, yes, but, my training called me to push myself. So, I shall do the same this year.

One of the training tools that DD (Darrick Doerner) has me doing for big waves is to bring a 2 to 3 foot diameter Swiss Ball into the ocean and the game is that I'm not allowed to let of of the ball. It teaches you to handle heavy impacts while getting tossed around, it teaches confidence, and, it's utterly wild. I'm looking forward to the swells getting big enough to train properly using this technique. For it too develops muscles like steel and ripped like cable. Of course, the next level, is to hold the ball beautifully and gracefully and with style, but that's yet to come. Maybe this Fall, if I am lucky, it's at least a goal of mine.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Tuesday, September 14, 2010

Slacklining, Tightrope Walking, and Balance Training

Aloha Tribe,

Today, I started a new phase with my Surfing Training. I'm focusing heavily on balance training, and as such, am using Slacklining and Tightrope Walking as well as other Balance arts to enhance my skills on my longboard.

So, here's my program...

1. Walking everywhere as though I'm on a Tightrope, namely, with one foot landing directly in front of the other in a straight line, the heel of the front foot brushing the toes of the rear foot with each step. In other words, each step I take, while going grocery shopping or whatevers, is along a line, like a crack in the sidewalk, a straight shadow of a building, or even just an imaginary line.

2. Headstands and Handstands with various leg positions and body positions.

3. Walking on metal pipes and tree branches of various diameters and heights. On the ground. A few inches high. Several feet high.

4. Walking railroad tracks. My goal here is to learn to walk up to 8 miles (for endurance and mental focus), which is the distance between two local towns here with unused railroad tracks.

5. Walking on hemp rope with a rustic log support frame.

6. Walking on Military Rappeling rope supported by 2 x 4 frames.

7. Finally, to learn to properly set up a wire and tension it safely for walking an actual tightwire.

8. Walking and balancing on rocks down by the creek.

9. Sitting on a Swiss Ball whenever possible.

10. Standing on various balance balls and disks while doing chores such as washing dishes, doing laundry, making the bed, brushing teeth and vaccuming and such. 

I'll try to do at least 3 hours a day of just Balance Training, as well as time spent on my NOHO Surf Trainer, and my Indo Board, and, of course, surfing as much as possible at every opportunity.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Friday, September 10, 2010

Cardio for Winter North Shore Oahu Surfing Preparation

Aloha Tribe,

Darrick Doerner (DD - World Famous Big Wave Surfer and one of the orginal group of the Strap-In Crew who developed the sport of Big Wave Surfing)  who is my Surfing and Watergirl Mentor has me doing lots of cardio for preparation for my trip to the North Shore of Oahu for Winter season surfing.

Naturally, I'm surfing as much as possible, as well as swimming as much as possible, in as many different water conditions as I can, In addition though, I'm spending a lot of time hiking mountains for several  hours most every day, mountain biking up to 24 miles a day, as  well as rowing.

I'm also doing lots of balance training, focusing mostly on tightrope and slacklining, which, while not exactly cardio, certainly are intense workouts, especially when done for several hours every day.

In addition, I'm doing a bit of running as often as I can throughout the day. That being said, I'm a much better swimmer than runner, running being my weakest skill, thus, just like what I read that Kelly Slater did when he trained, I am trying to do as much of my weakest skill as I can to improve that, then, I move to my next weakest skill.

With all of this exercise, I'm also doing lots of flexibility training for hours, focusing on Tree Yoga and Slackline Yoga.

During my "downtime" each day, I'm training my Freediving.

I realize, of course, that many people say that the best exercise for surfing is, surfing. But, as my Coach and Mentor says, as he shared  a direct quote from our friend Gerry Lopez, "surf for tomorrow." Basically, that means be careful when you surf and train. Not so much that you don't push the limits, of course, but, not to take silly chances.

In the last few weeks, I've now had, frustratingly, about 17 broken bones. Fortunately, using the Chi Gung that I have studied since I was aged 5, I have been able to heal each of them in a matter of days.

This brings me to an interesting dream of mine, one thing I so hope with all of my heart to do is to help and heal sick and hurt surfers using my Chi Gung skills. I truly believe that each of us of The Tribe, needs to use our own unique Gifts in any way we can to help those surfers around us, thus, in our own way, making the surfing world and thus the world a little bit of a better place. Bottom line, it's all about caring. Which, begins with ourselves. And that's the point of this post, we need to push and train and prepare ourselves to the best that we can for whatever kind of surfing we plan to do. In this way, we can surf strong, and to the top of our potential, my dream for myself, to surf beautifully and with receptivity to the sea.

While my training seems scattered in its variety, if one looks at it carefully, it is seen that each and every skill is geared specifically to improve my surfing, and, in the case of this post at least, for improving my cardio. Which, brings up an interesting point. I truly believe that one of the best cardio training methods a surfer can do is to spend a lot of time in the water, hours and hours every day, preferably in the roughest seas possible, doing lots of ocean swimming for as long and as hard as possible every day. With that, living in the Pacific Northwest, I am blessed with some of the wildest seas on the planet in the Winter, so intense, Oregon and Washington are the places where the Coast Guard Rescue Swimmers train. Golly, I'd love to be one of those guys, well, in a girl sort of way, of course.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Friday, September 3, 2010

Chi Gung Surfing, Slackline Chi Gung, Tree Yoga - for Surfing

Aloha Tribe,

So, I've been working on a number of disciplines to improve my surfing. Namely...

1. Chi Gung

2. Slacklining

3. Slackline Yoga

4. Slackline Chi Gung

5. Tree Yoga

6. Silver Surfer Longboard Yoga


Each of these arts dances together in a harmony of balance. Since balance is the root of all that is behind surfing, by training in these other disciplines, I am able to work on my balance from a variety of angles.

Chi Gung, as I see it, is the root of surfing, for it is behind all that we do as surfers, its simply that most have not heard the term nor know the discipline. Essentially, it involves a variety of stationary as well as moving postures, all flowing together in gentle rounded movements, in harmony with ones breath and the energy of the body as well as beyond our bodies, chi.


Slacklining is standing, walking, and moving on a thin strip of tubular webbing, often about an inch in diameter, sometimes less, sometimes more. Essentially, a piece of webbing is strung between two solid supports such as trees, boulders and the like, and you stand, sit, and move on the line as it gently sways.


Slackline Yoga is all about doing yoga poses while on the slackline. It is a beautiful, soft, gentle, magical  approach to movement, stillness, and life.

Slackline Chi Gung involves doing Chi Gung on a slackline, just as Chi Gung Surfing is about doing Chi Gung while one surfs. In both cases, it brings a combination of internal and external awareness to what you are doing, be it walking on a slackline or surfing a wave. At it's most basic, the art involves learning to harmonize your physical muscular movements  with your breath. This method is called Wai Chi. And, at more advanced levels, you harmonize your bodies internal energy or chi, as well as the energy beyond yourself from a wave or the sky or earth, and you blend that energy with your own and move it through your body as you dance with the energy of nature.

Tree Yoga involves using various straps suspended from trees to aid in your Yoga practice. Using these straps, one can also bring them to the Slackline for Slackline Yoga practice. In addition, you could use a NOHO Surf Balance Trainer set up under a tree, and use the straps from Tree Yoga to help you hold various static and dynamic movements on your surfboard when it is on dry land. This form of practice is a variation of Zhan Zhong, and, in this format would be Tree Yoga Surfboard Zhan Zhong. Standing in such postures, one might hold them for one to several hours to allow the body to slowly grown into each new pose. It is truly a beautiful art with infinite depth to explore, both internally and externally.

And of course, that brings us to Silver Surfer NOHO Surf Balance Trainer Yoga. As I've mentioned in other posts, my inspirtation comes from the Marvel Superhero, the Silver Surfer and that fact that he spends so much of his life literally on his board. As such, I am learning to use my NOHO Surf Balance Trainer as a way to truly explore the depth of my balance on my longboard. With such a tool, it is possible to literally train on your board all day, overnight, and for however long you choose to remain on the board and NOHO Surf Balance Trainer. It is truly a phenomenal experience and is not to be missed for it offers such an awareness that is beyond imagination. Rather trippy, actually.

So, by combining these various training methods into different combinations, I'm slowly working on honing my surfing balance for when I hit the waves.

I am searching for an art that is as beautiful to see as it is to feel.  I seek an art that is soft, gentle, receptive, feminine, flowing, beautiful, rounded, playful.  Last night, I spent most of the night in personal exploration of muscular movement through yoga, bringing me to new heights of snesory awareness and a much greater limberness today. Truly awesome!!!

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Wednesday, September 1, 2010

Slackline Yoga for Surfing

Aloha Tribe,

I love slacklines and slacklining. I suppose it comes from my years of studying Monkey Kung Fu where I spent a fair amount of time training on a 1 inch diameter manilla rope. In any event, slacklining, for those of you who don't know, involves standing and walking on a thin strip of mountain climbing webbing, typically about an inch wide or so. The line is attached between two supports such as trees, and hangs loosely, hence, slackline, as opposed to a tightwire, which, is not only a wire, but also incredibly tightly strung.

Because of the looseness of a slackline, it creates perpetual dynamic motion, which, applies perfectly to surfing. In fact, if you can walk a slackline, surfing seems much easier in comparision.

Now then, slackline yoga is doing yoga while dancing, walking, standing, sitting, and laying on a slackline.  As you can imagine, it is a wonderful way to work on balance, more so, it is a sport unto itself, just as slacklining is also.

So, I've been practicing today, sort of a flowing dance styled slackline yoga  for hours and hours where I flowed from position to position set to  music I have from the '60's such as Na Na Hey Hey Kiss Him Good Bye by Steam (one of my favorite songs and the song I play in my head while I surf and train for surfing).

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Subtle Dynamic Surfing Balance Training on NOHO Surf Balance Trainer

Aloha Tribe,

Yesterday was an interesting and fun day of training. I spent about 6 hours or so working on subtle movement awareness. I used my NOHO Surf Balance Trainer since I can get so much practice time on it for such training.

For example, let's say that a typical surf ride is, oh, perhaps, 8 seconds. And, let's assume it typically is about a half our wait between rides, what with paddling out, and waiting for the right wave and of course, honoring etiquette by allowing other surfers to catch waves when it is their turn. So, given that, one actually "practices" surfing, perhaps 8 to 10 seconds per half hour, or, in  about a 6 hour session, roughly, 10 or twelve rides. Now, compare that to 6 solid hours of training on a NOHO or Indo Board or balance disks or slackline or whatevers.  In such a case, the 8 seconds then spread out is like what, 3600 rides or so? That's like years and years worth in a day.

Thus, training is valuable. The key, of course, is that it needs to be fun. And, for me, trying to perfect extremely minute and subtle surfing movements and the awareness of each, is radically fun.  Consider it a character flaw of mine, I guess. I'm way totally into movement, what can I say?

The funny thing is, after about 6 hours of intense highly focused internal training, when it finally came time for me to do my home chores, namely, to check on my chickens out in their chicken coup, the walk out to them of 50 yards or so made me feel like the most uncoordinated girl on the face of the planet.

Why? Because I walked with awareness.

You see, when we walk, we actually are simply falling forward out of balance in a case of complete abandon. We're damn lucky we don't fall with each step we take. But, as babies, we learn to master walking, and, unless one trains like I did yesterday, we typically forget about how we walk and we mindlessly meander here or there in our lives, giving our actual walking style and techniques, let alone bringing full body awareness to each step, simply, out of our minds.

With every walking step, we actually are falling forward briefly, as our bodies pass our centerline of balance.  And, it's only by swinging our unwaited foot forwards, that we can catch ourselves and seemingly, walk gracefully.

Interestingly enough, with attention to detail, I noticed in myself extremely tiny lateral shifts as I walk, shifts, I'd normally never even notice. But, because I worked so intently on subtle dynamic surfing balance movement training yesterday, my ungraceful and unintentional body shifts of "normal" walking, SCREAMED to my brain that I was damned luck I didn't topple over with each step.

A simple way to try this yourselves is to merely close your eyes, and, walk forwards as slowly as you can. For many of you, I'd imagine, it'll feel like your world is turning on end and it's the end of the world as we know it.

Pretty cool physical sensations actually. Rather trippy, I must say. Trippy is good.

So, yesterday, I worked with muscle groups, such as the rotation of my forward arm to see how it would effect balance, or a raising or lowering of my thighs or arms. Each muscular movement created different subltle sensations on my surfboard as I dropped my nose or tail or dipped a rail left or right, focusing on 9 directions of movement, namely center, left, right, forwards, backwards, forward left, forward right, backwards left,  and backwards right, then, to various degrees of movement such as a 1/2 inch drop in the nose or tail or a 1/4 inch dip of a rail. Interestingly enough, I used a carpenters level to work on the subtleties visually. It has bubbles that can shift forwards or backwards and left and right, so I simply laid it on my board and worked for hours with it. The hours flew as I was completely in the zone.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley