Aloha Tribe,
Rather tiny, knee high or so. But nice. Beautiful weather. Calm. As the week goes on, bigger rides are coming, Double Overheads before the weekend which will be super.
Happy with whatevers. The smell of surf wax. A fun ride in my VW Bug. Brew and Fish Tacos in the lot. Hanging. It's all good. Paddling. Being. Carrying my board. Watching the surf. Like I said, whatevers. Oh, and my ukulele but of course. Good swimming though. Everybody so needs a monofin and some Rockets.
Oh hey, the new Warshaw book, The History of Surfing. Way totally love it!!! I so love our tribes history. Required knowledge. at least I think so. It makes our sport richer and so much more beautiful. Personally, as a Watergirl, I so hope to memorize the book. Along with his Encyclopedia, of course, A ton of work? Of course. Character flaw of mine. Gotta love it.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
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