Aloha Tribe,
Some of you, perhaps even many, may wonder why I train so hard for my surfing, rather than simply surf to surf. After all, surfing to surf is our sports natural and traditional training method.
Yet, I know myself, and, I love pushing myself to extreme limits in any sport, whether I was training in Women's Epee Fencing for the Olympics, doing martial arts, playing Scottish Shinty, skateboarding, or, of course, surfing.
I want to be the best surfer that I can be. And, as such, I'm using my lifetime of Chi Gung training to help me, which, creates unparalled mental and physical body awarenss for surfing as well as any other sport such as snowboarding or whatevers, and by using all of the supplemental training exercises I do, whether it's lifting weights, mountain bike riding, playing basketball, Rock Running, Coastal Swimming, slackling, tightrope walking, or any of the other sports I utilize to help my surfing, I've found, at least for myself, that such physical activity tremendously increases my surfing skills, awareness, and stoke.
More so, I'm training for the North Shore. I've surfed there last Spring, and plan to go back as soon as I can. I'd like to stay for 4 months or so. Since the Fall and especially Winter swells are not only huge but also powerful, I want to be in the best shape that I can in order to surf safer, with more confidence, and, with a greater sense of spontaneous playfullness. In addition, my goal is to surf softly, femininely, and with style and beauty.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
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