Friday, July 30, 2010

Slacklining and Pole Walking for Surfing

Aloha Tribe,

I'll be training hard for the next 46 days or so, dividing my training between swimming, surfing, and slacklining and pole walking. The swimming, is to help me get a lean Watergirl body, and the others, are for my surfing.

I'm hoping that by spending so much time balancing, my surfing will have a few leaps and bounds in the weeks to come. Time, will tell.

Surfing where I do, in extremely strong cross currents and rip currents, with constant closed out waves, and periods as short as 4 seconds, my paddling conditioning should skyrocket over the next month and a half or so.

Thus, half my time will focus on balance.

At the beach, I'll set my slackline up between large driftwood logs. And, at my campsite, I'll simply set it up in the trees. My goal, is to slackline and pole walk every hour or so, focusing, in improvement based on softness and receptivity to movement.

For inspiration, tonight, I'll have some  great Pinot Noir wine while watching the movie Man on Wire  starring Philippe Petit, a true tightrope wire walker genius. 


Tonight shall be truly inspirational fun!!!

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

The Vagabond Feral Soul Surfer

Aloha Tribe,

We each, all of us, surf our own path. This, is simply the wave I'm listening to now.

So, what exactly is a Vagabond Feral Soul Surfer? Hmm, well, it's fun you asked. First off, such a surfer surfs and travels, for the most part, alone. They are an Independent. A Solo.  And, in their Wanderings, they move from break to break with no real plan, simply, instead, following a sort of intuition of the sea, a calling of sea chi (mana), if you want to think of it that way.

Such travels are seemingly without purpose, yet, it is the call, the feeling, that leads the Vagabond Feral Soul Surfer. And, beneath all paths, even those seemingly aimless, lies, a goal, if only, to lose oneself on the path to self discovery and internal stoke.

As a Soul Surfer, one simply surfs for the pure love of it. For, the feeling. The sensation.  The stoke!!! It is a path a great many of The Tribe follow. Even the pros, in their hearts.

And, as a feral, well, that implies one searches out "the wilds," even, if the wilds are simply within the individual surfer's own experience, that is to say, a new and fresh break, as yet to be explored by the surfer on the quest.

Which, if you put it all together, simply means that a surfer travels, perhaps far, possibly simply within at a local break, letting their own energy or chi (mana) guide them, in other words, basically just listening to intution. Now, granted, it's a bit more complicated than that, after all, to truly follow such a path, one surrenders their will to the call, heeding the next break, not from choice, but instead, from feeling. Simply put,  it just feels right. And, in these meanderings and adventuresome ramblings, the surfer is not after money, fame, and glory, but instead, simply, the ride. More so, the feeling of the ride!!!

For the ride, is the thing.

In a way.

Now, that's not to say one has to constantly ride. Far from it. When done with Aloha, that internal stoke of any particular wave stays with you. Forever. It simply becomes a matter of calling forth the remembrance of a given break at a certain time, for a specific ride. If we but quiet ourselves deeply enough, we each can call forth such imagery. A key, to that, by the way, is breathing. Slow, rhythmic, quiet, soft, gentle, beautiful, natural, receptive breathing, sort of, like in a sense, surfing breath itself. For, that is what one does as you grow deeper into the art of chi gung surfing.


Living in such a way, namely, with internal Aloha stoke, it's the culture of surfing that we embrace. The International Tribe, if you want to think of it that way, and, our collective memories and experiences, and dreams of that which was, that which is (our specialty), and that which will be.


Now then, getting back to Feral, well, perhaps it is an adventure to the wilds somewhere, a place, that nobody has ever surfed. Or, perhaps it's simply a new spot for you, or, a new way to ride an old break. The bottom line,  it's all about feeling and how we each, individually, relate to that.


Moving along gently to the vagabond aspect, one simply travels. With no plan (that's the key and the definition). Perhaps staying here. Or there. For, awhile. Until, the feeling calls again and it's time to move once more. To another break. And, another wave.


Such passion for life and surfing is, I suppose, many surfer's dream, yet, realistically, few surfer's realized dream. For most, I would imagine, fall to obligations of life, unless, we each learn to hold, deep within ourselves, our stoke.


That being said, the Vagabond Feral Soul Surfer is still out there in the world, not some relic from the 60's and early 70's but instead, still there, just, harder to find. Wandering. Traveling, more than likely, ultralightly. With but a board, probably battered, and a bag or two. You can know such a person by their eyes. And, their smile. For it stands out, even in mega-crowded line-ups. Though, that being said, such a person seldom would be in such a line-up, for, they would have ridden at a different time, a time of their own calling, in a place, only their heart knows.


Living such a lifestyle brings a uniqueness to surfing that calls the hearts and souls of many. For, it is the dream that most of us have grown up with. Of bygone days. Yesteryear. When the waves were uncrowded, there were no competitions,  no money, and it was simply he sea itself that called us to dance.


My trip, starting in the tomorrow in morning, early, will be such a trip. To the wilds. Literally. Yet, also, internally. For my quest is about the feeling. I'm not so much after the perfect wave, nor the pefect place, but more so, the feeling of the flowing, not as a form of perfection, but instead, merely as a means to surrendering within and finding my own flow, matching my ride, with, what happens inside my body, to my own chi (mana).

I seek not big waves. Nor small waves. Neither crowded waves. Nor uncrowded waves. Instead, I search for  that which takes place inside ourselves. For my dance, as is the dance of so many of us,  one of surrender and following, in order to grow and explore the wild new frontiers within myself.


Bodaciously Stoked,


Lily of the Valley

Tuesday, July 27, 2010

Once Upon a Break

Aloha Tribe,

Well, I've found the perfect break for me at any rate, for the time being, that is to say, from now until the second week of September. I'll be surfing here 6 to 7 days a week until I fly to the North Shore of Oahu.

I'd like to have continued my Golden Quest, but, sometimes money talks. No worries. That's the cool thing about being a Vagabond Feral Surfer, you simply adapt to what is!!!

In the process, at my new break, I'll surf as much as I can each day. My surfing and Watergirl mentor, Darrick Doerner (DD), hopes I'll be ... "ripping it," doing...

Bottom turns
Off-the-Tops
Rollercoasters
Cutbacks
Floaters
and numerous other wild moves...

before I hit the North Shore. So, I have some training ahead of me.

I'll swim each day, using my Rocket Fins for Coast Guard type Rescue Swimming practice, as well as my monofin for breaching, planning, to be the first person ever to fully breach (that is to say, leap completely clear of the water).

In addition, I'll train daily with my Gibbon Slackline, my skateboard, and a host of other exercises including rock running, Coastal Swimming (by the way, DD, I was told by a marine biologist this past weekend - he's also an international surfer - that he would NOT do Coastal Swimming where we had talked about, after all, he said "I know what's out there..." (implying, damn big fish) - but hey, what could happen, right? Best not to think of such things :)

I'll also do the Swiss Ball training, underwater rock carrying, and all the other big wave training stuff.

By the time I hit the North Shore, I should, I hope, have a fairly okay Watergirl body, shredded from speed swimming training, and honed by slow longboarding, a sort of yin and yang physical expression of movement and muscle.

I do wish my Golden Quest had worked at this time, but, no worries. My break calls, and, that's what it's all about!!!

I'll still be camping for the full month and a half or so, which is, after all, all part of the feral surfer girl experience.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Monday, July 19, 2010

And So, It Begins!!! Vagabond Feral Surf Trip: Seattle to Malibu

Aloha Tribe,

So, tomorrow, early, my adventure begins. I'll be leaving the Seattle area, hitting a Straits break by early morning and there, surfing and doing Watergirl Training for the day at Tentacles. I'll camp overnight, then surf the next day and do more Watergirl Training. And then, off down the Pacific Coast, headed, South. My golden quest to Malibu sings my soul!!!

The breaks will call to me each day, talking story to me of where to surf and stay. Sometimes, I'd imagine, I may surf a given break for several days. Other times, I'll surf a bit then hit the road again.

I'll be traveling Ultralight as an Ultralight Vagabond Feral Surfer. My trip will probably last about a month and a half or so. And, once I return, I'll be home about a week then off to the North Shore of Oahu for somewhere between a month and possibly up to 4 months of Hawaii surfing.

My Car: Orange VW Turbo Bug with Safari Rack

My Board: 10' Single Fin Aqua Green BK

My  Backpack: Women's GoLite Jam (23 oz. unpacked of course)

My Wetsuit: O'Neil Psycho 1

My Bikini: Woodland Camouflage String Bikini

A Gibbon Slackline: for balance training and yoga, naturally

One Pair of Rocket Fins - for my Rescue Swimmer Training part of Watergirl Skills

The root or base part of my quest, that is to say, the spiritual/Shamanic part, is to go to the Morrison Apartments, where Jim Morrison from The Doors, lived on his friends rooftop during the beginning of his journey back in the Summer of '65. I'd love to stay in the area and surf and meditate, slackline, fast, swim, write, and just be, for as long as I can, ideally a week or so.


Adventure abounds.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Thursday, July 15, 2010

The Watergirl Surfer's Beachparty Cookbook!!!

Aloha Tribe,

So, I've been thinking. My trip is coming quickly. In, two or three days. In any event, up until just now, I've been planning on traveling ultralight. Keeping my total gear (hammock tent, cooking gear, sleeping bag, clothes, toiletries, miscellaneous accessories, and so on, including my wetsuit (all stuffed inside of my tiny less than  two pounds backpack), but not counting my board, at under 20 pounds.

But, today, I read a book. A cookbook actually. The Summer Shack Cookbook by Jasper White. And, it got me thinking about my Watergirl training in addition to my surfing training. After all, my quest is about both.

And, that got me thinking about meals. Now, here in the Pacific Northwest where I hang my board, I can go to my local break and surf it alone pretty much anytime day or night, and, if there are a few people out, I can, if I choose, simply drift down the beach a bit and have all the breaks I want totally to myself. Well, while that's all fun and great and quite possibly every surfer's dream, hanging with other surfers, talking story, and, yes, cooking and eating great meals freshly prepared from the sea, is part of the whole lifestyle too.

So, I might, might mind you, bring my cast iron three legged cooking pot with me. I hadn't thought of it until just now, since, it would make a lot of food, but, what better way to meet the local surfers on my journey than to feed them all some of the greatest food in their lives. For what could be better than fresh oysters, wild crab, freshly caught fish of all types, and seaweed so fresh it's still alive with energy!!!  all flavored with local flavors and cooking magic.

I had been thinking of writing a book of my adventures, figuring, up until now, it would be a surfing book. But, as of this moment, I might add a second book, in this case, a cookbook, too, a Surfer's Cookbook. Hmm, The Watergirl Surfer's Beach Party Cookbook.

Hey, it's a thought.

So, between sets, I simply harvest some seafood, then, prepare it in my pot for all to share.

If I do this, and, you happen to see a girl cooking over a large black cast iron cauldron, wearing a camouflaged string bikini, that, would be me. And, if so, welcome, come on over for some yummy food and talking story time.

I might just bring the cookbook with me. It could be an adventure. And, it most certainly would be fun reading at night.

Surfing is increasing in popularity daily, it seems. So, it's time to rekindle the surf party of yesteryear too. And, it seems to me, that can best be done with great seafood caught and harvested fresh daily from the ocean's bounty.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

Maps

Aloha Tribe,

Today, I've been contemplating my route from Seattle to Baja. I've toyed with the idea of bringing tons of maps and guide books and sea charts of water depths, and on and on, but, you know, when it all comes down to it, I'll probably just toss my backpack into my VW bug, strap my board on top of the roof, and, follow my nose south.

Sure, I could prepare totally, yet, part of the fun of being a Vagabonding Feral Surfer Girl is that wild things happen. And, as such, one simply, adapts to what is. And, accepts what comes. Which, really, is what my Soul Surfing search for style is all about. Simply, being receptive.

So, when it comes down to it and I pull off of my single lane dirt road onto the beckoning highway, I'll be heading out into the wilds, underequipped, semi-lost, yet, with the sure path, convictions, and mostly, passion,  of a surfer who's mind, body, and spirit dance to the call of the crashing sea.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Saturday, July 10, 2010

Vagabonding Soul Surfer: Quest: Mysto Break Baja

Aloha Tribe,

So, I'm into my last week of training before my vagabonding soul surfer trip from Washington State to Baja.

I just finished getting my single bag, a green backpack, packed. I'll be bringing one backback, one longboard, and my bright orange VW Bug with her cute safari roof rack.

I'll probably head out next weekend, and, more than likely, travel until about the beginning of September, surfing as many breaks between here and there as I can.

I've already explored all 45 breaks in Washington State, and, about a dozen in northern Oregon.  though I'll be hitting several of those that are going off again as my journey begins.

I won't have access to my computer until I get back, though, I might be able to submit an entry now and again by writing it and having a friend type it in just to keep the Tribe up-to-date, in case any of you are interested in this quest of mine.

What am I searching for? Soul. That is to say, Soul Surfing. I want to find beauty in my movements, receptivity to the waves as they form. I want my surfing to be fully about surrendering.

My goal is to surf as much as I can each day, ideally striving to surf as much as possible each day. When I'm not surfing, I'll drive, camp, and reflect upon my surfing.

My full focus will be on the sea and my Watergirl Training as I learn to express my art, searching, for, style.

I am a Feral Surfer. A Vagabonding  Soul Surfer. A girl, with a dream of being a Watergirl.

Before the year is out, which, was and is the point of my blog, I dream to have progressed from a Kahuna Tuna to a Big Wave Rider. At least, a little big wave. And then, by 2012. well, I'm getting ready for the coming wave.

This week, starting in a few hours actually, I'll continue my intense training by camping at the coast for the next week until I leave on my trip, focusing on softening my surfing style. Smoothing it out. Adding, a bit of beauty to it.

I am heading for a mythical break in Baja, the dream wave that will envelope me, embrace me, and teach me her ways of art.


Will I make Baja? What adventures will I have along the way? Who knows. I do know this, I shall, for, there is no try, merely, do.

I love my Baja Bug, she is the perfect surf car for me. And, being Sunset Orange, well, she's just so beautiful. And, my new multi-tone green backpack is really cute. 2700 cubic inches. Internal frame. 1 pound 7 ounces.

I'm keeping my gear to Ultralight Backpacking weights, including my camping gear and surfing gear together, not counting my longboard, of course.  My goal was to get my gear down to one bag, and, I've spent the last 5 days doing just that, packing and tweaking everything again and again and again until I got it all smaller, tighter, and, well, cuter and more form fitting.

My colors, inspired by my mentor Darrick Doerner (DD) are green camouflage, including, my cute string bikini.

A lone girl, traveling the West Coast, searching through her surfing for, herself.

My Spanish is weak, my Hawaiian Pidgin, slowly coming naturally. My Hawaiian Language needs much work, and, my Surfer Speak is coming along. I'll practice all 4 languages on my trip, striving to make each the best that I can during my adventure.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Friday, July 2, 2010

The Return to Soul Surfing

Aloha Tribe,

Soul Surfing has been lost. Lost to time, and changes in society. And, the need for money. But, it's coming back. In the eyes of a few daring pioneers.

Soul Surfing, to me, is a shamanic experience. It is, in fact, shamanism, as I see it and live it. My goal, is to travel the world, helping and healing those I can, who, happen along the coast or on the way to the sea. Using the mana, energy, or chi of the ocean, I am shaping my chi gung skills to find new and unexplored ways of expression of healing. It is, a yin path, the path of water, yet, within that, lies yang, for, the waves power the path.

As I travel from break to break, I'll watch. And listen. To the sea, and, all who are near. And, with a soft smile, I'll share what little art I possess in the use of chi gung as a shamanic soul surfer tool.

My path before me, I imagine, will be filled with challenges and adventures unknown at the moment, yet, sensed, for they are what call my spirit.

My  board, my style of riding, my performance art, if you will, all will center upon the art of the Soul Surfer.

This will include movement, color, sound, smell, sight, and every physical sensation.

It is, a unique plan, a rather odd  goal and path, yet, one that beckons truly and purely. For it is the innocence and purity of the path which offer it's true power and magic.

It all began, a year ago, with a dream, while lying sick in a hospital. And, in the last few months has begun manifesting itself as reality.

The more I embrace it, the softer I become. The more I surf, the more I find out about my surfing and what it can do and teach and offer as I learn from it.

I am, like the gunfighter of the old west, wandering from town to town, only, in this case, my 6 shooter is my surfboard, my towns, surf breaks.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Soul Surfing

Aloha Tribe,

Many wonder what Soul Surfing is. Basically, it's nothing more than surfing for the love of surfing. Sure, tons can be said about it such as how to get deeper into it, how to live it, how to perfect it and even turn it into a sort of physical art, but, really, when you get down to it, it's just about loving what you do. Truly loving it. And, that's the secret that I suspect many miss. Genuine passion. For many have lost touch with that, seeking it, in, their surfing and through surfing.

Can it be quantified? No, not really. Should it even be attempted? Of course not. Yet, there are ways to make the true appreciation deeper, which, provide a dramatically greater sense of love and stoke.

And, what is the key? Physical training is the root, mental training is the art. Just like, with Chi Gung.

Wai Chi or Wai Dan and Nei Chi or Nei Dan. First, physical. Then, mental.

Interestingly enough, neither path ever ends, for each, provides bottomless exploration and infinite depth of mastery upon mastery.

The secret to mastery? Why, mastery, of course. For, in the martial arts, as well as calligraphy and other similar disciplines, it is said that once one masters simply one thing, then, all things can be mastered. A much deeper reflection than simple perusal would suggest.

Before enlightenment, one surfs, for fun. After enlightenment, one surfs, for fun. It's really, that simple.

A surfing paraphrase of something the martial artist Bruce Lee said, is something to the effect of... Before I surfed, surfing was simply surfing. After I mastered surfing, surfing was no longer surfing. Now, that I understand the depths of surfing, surfing, is, simply, surfing.

All rooted, of course, in, fun.

Many professional surfers, sadly, lose sight of this, lost, in money and contracts and obligations.

My path toward Soul Surfing is leading me along the way of the Feral Surfer. I am training myself, under the guidance of DD, to travel the world as a Watergirl, a Feral Surfer with one board and one bag and nothing more. This path is quickly becoming my lifestyle. My way of life. My, path.

I have several boards in my quiver, one of them, my Feral Board. My 10' aqua green BK. At the moment, I have one sticker on it, besides the BK logo. It is a pink Hawaiian sea turtle, for my board is named, Honu. It is my Feral Board, and, as such, is a hippy girl board, so tomorrow, assuming it's not raining, I'll be sticking on numerous hippy stickers such as peace signs, daisy flowers, and perhaps a rock group sticker such as Hendrix or The Doors.

My board currently has a retro Bob Anderson 60's retro single fin on it.

I'm not sure of the perfect travel bag yet. I'm still searching. The challenge, I'm finding, is fitting all my travel gear into it, namely...

Tent

Sleeping Bag

Wet Suit plus hood, gloves, booties

Surf Wax

Surfboard Leash (though DD says I should learn to surf without one)

Fin Screws

Surf Fin Knife (screwdriver)

Toiletries

Extra Clothes... two t-shirts
                         extra shorts
                         travel skirt
                         flip flops

First Aid Kit

Matches

Mosquito Netting

and, other stuff to be determined.

Ideally, I want it minimalist. The ability to travel for weeks on end, preferably camping, using ultra-light camping gear and techniques.

My dream is to be an ultra-light Feral Surfer. As for money along the way? Well, cons and scams magic such as the Shell Game, Three Card Monte, Fast and Loose, and, of course, cardsharping. Naturally, there's always writing  and photography for the surf magazines too, if any want to follow the career of a gypsy girl Feral Soul Surfer about to travel the world!!!

Oh, and, the key thing I'll be doing, is using my chi gung to help and heal those in trouble or those who are sick or hurt.

Bodaciously  Stoked,

Lily of the Valley
                        
 
                   

Living Life as a Soul Surfer

Aloha Tribe,

So, some of you may be wondering what the term Soul Surfer means.  It is about true spirituality as it blends mind, body, and spirit. It is about finding oneself through movement, while one surfs, in harmony with the sea.

And, what in the world does all of that mean? Goodness, this could be a whole blog. To me, soul surfing is about doing what one loves, in this case, surfing, and, doing it, not for power or money or fame or such, but instead, for pure pleasure, as an expression of art reflected in spirit and in how one lives life.

Soul surfing is calmness. It is an inner peace, found in movement, through, stillness of action. The calmer and more relaxed one lives, the more one can embrace soul surfing. It is a way, a path if you want to think of it that way, yet, more so, it simply, is. It reflects itself as art in how you think and act and move and in how your surf and how you study the sea.

And, interestingly enough, there are great ways to train for it, to learn to embrace it, to find, in oneself while surfing, a sense of enlightenment and inner peace, expressed through living in the here-and-now in intensely yet paradoxically calming motion brought about and manifested as thinking really quickly, which, comes across as thinking and acting, thus, surfing, in, extreme slow motion.

To a true soul surfer, time stops almost, slowing to fractions of fractions of seconds, making, a single ride seem to last an eternity.

Expressed as energy, one could call it mana or zen or chi, or even maucht (in Scotland).

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Freediving the Impact Zone for Big Wave Surfing Training

Aloha Tribe,

I am a freediver and a surfer with a passionate interest in big wave surfing and big wave swimming. As most of you know,  I am, through this blog, training myself as well as, and, shall I say more importantly,  being trained directly under the incredible tuteledge of world famous big wave rider Darrick Doerner (DD).

The ace up my sleeve, yes, I am a cardsharp too (hey, it pays the bills), is my chi gung training for freediving and big wave surfing survival.

In my training, I am teaching myself to make the impact zone my playground. As such, I am spending as much time as I can there, experimenting with my various training specialties, while, focusing on playing, which, by the way, is the key to the whole thing. For, it is relaxation, not static relaxation like most freedivers and big wave surfers think, but creative playful relaxation that is the core and focus of my training due to it's vital importance.

Fortunatel, I am blessed at the moment to live in the wild Pacific Northwest, in Washington State actually, where the surf is as wild as it comes. Now sure, we don't have the beautifully formed surfable waves like Hawaii, but, if you want Impact Zone Training that will test you to the ultimate limits of human experience, you can pick no place better for the water is frigid, wild, dark, untamed, and feral.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Disappearing into the Sea

Aloha Tribe,

So, some of you may have noticed the long gaps in my blog. What originally started as an ideal every day writing has turned into jotting down thoughts between swells. Sometimes, long sets of swells.

I've been surfing. Lots. And, the more I do, the more I must. My every waking thought now is of surfing. I do it. I study about it. I contemplate it. And, I dream of surfing. When I'm not surfing, I'm training my surfing skills. Skills of observation of the sea, balance, flexibility, studying rhythm of waves and music, increasing strength, and, honing muscles shaped by water.

I'm finding that I'm disappearing. Disappearing into the sea. Becoming one with her. Feeling her, sensing her, embracing her. Being, her.

The more I  find myself riding upon the seas waves, dancing her lines between the edge, the more I find I need her touch, within me, deeply transforming me into her mysteries.

Surfing is becoming more about feeling than anything else. Which, to me, is not surprising in that it has always been movement, both external and internal, that has danced my soul and my body, creating sensations that make me smile upon reflection and remeberance, sometimes softly, sometimes, with ceiling clinging intensity.

I've many chores today, yet, I must away. My  board. My backpack. What more? Perhaps a duffle bag rather than a backpack. The right duffle bag. An over the shoulder model. Probably canvas. Well worn. Something like from Duluth Pack.  A feral surfer's duffel. Duluth Pack should make one, for, it would sell. Such thoughts, make me smile of untraveled journeys.

Daylight calls. What adventure abounds? Slacklining of course. And swimming. Between chores. To the surf, if I can. For, I must away with the sea filling my body.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Feral Surfing: Bush Surfing the Wilds

Aloha Tribe,

I've been thinking a lot about Feral Surfing lately. And, surfing, a lot. I'm feeling called, to go, out there. Somewhere. Not, for the perfect wave, but more so, for the perfect ride. The ride of my own soul. I"m finding that I'm changing inside. And, out. Brought about by the training  Darrick Doerner is giving me. He's introducing me to new things. New sensations. New feelings. Like bringing music to my surfing.

It's as though the clock is ticking backwards, making me younger with each passing hour of training. My body is responding. So, is my mind. I'm feeling the changes. Embracing them. And finding they are calling my spirit to yell with ecstatic yearning, twirling feet, and light movements.

This, of course, is deeply and profoundly effecting my surfing, bringing a sense of subtle movement within movements of stillness to my riding style, never before felt by me, yet, drawing me further along this adventureous step into the wilds.

The waves, they call to me now, constantly. In every sleeping moment, in each waking second. Whispering to me, sharing tales of unknown mysteries, longings, and desires.

I've chores to do today, yet, I seek instead, in a few moments, to cast aside all, turning to my cute orange vw bug, accepting the call of the swell.

Closing my blue eyes for but a second, I see an eternity of surfing movements in my mind, feel them in my body, surrender to them in my spirit.

Last night, I watched In God's Hands again. That surfing movie makes me smile. And, speaks to me. I wish I had been in it. It makes me long to be in a surf movie. I'd give anything to be in one. For, what fun. Yet, movies speak of harnesses, and, I surf as a wild filly mustang. Alone. Out there.

I'm changing. I feel it. My path is opening before me in the unexplored bush off the secret charts of Feral Surfing. One girl, one bag, one board. Alone. Drawn towards internal perfection through external mastery. The depths of such exploration, limitless. The treasure, boundless. Yet, just like the Count of Monte Cristo, I've already found it. Now, all that matters, is what I do with it.

With that, I smile. Heeding the flow.

Bodaciosuly Stoked,

Lily of the Valley