Saturday, July 10, 2010

Vagabonding Soul Surfer: Quest: Mysto Break Baja

Aloha Tribe,

So, I'm into my last week of training before my vagabonding soul surfer trip from Washington State to Baja.

I just finished getting my single bag, a green backpack, packed. I'll be bringing one backback, one longboard, and my bright orange VW Bug with her cute safari roof rack.

I'll probably head out next weekend, and, more than likely, travel until about the beginning of September, surfing as many breaks between here and there as I can.

I've already explored all 45 breaks in Washington State, and, about a dozen in northern Oregon.  though I'll be hitting several of those that are going off again as my journey begins.

I won't have access to my computer until I get back, though, I might be able to submit an entry now and again by writing it and having a friend type it in just to keep the Tribe up-to-date, in case any of you are interested in this quest of mine.

What am I searching for? Soul. That is to say, Soul Surfing. I want to find beauty in my movements, receptivity to the waves as they form. I want my surfing to be fully about surrendering.

My goal is to surf as much as I can each day, ideally striving to surf as much as possible each day. When I'm not surfing, I'll drive, camp, and reflect upon my surfing.

My full focus will be on the sea and my Watergirl Training as I learn to express my art, searching, for, style.

I am a Feral Surfer. A Vagabonding  Soul Surfer. A girl, with a dream of being a Watergirl.

Before the year is out, which, was and is the point of my blog, I dream to have progressed from a Kahuna Tuna to a Big Wave Rider. At least, a little big wave. And then, by 2012. well, I'm getting ready for the coming wave.

This week, starting in a few hours actually, I'll continue my intense training by camping at the coast for the next week until I leave on my trip, focusing on softening my surfing style. Smoothing it out. Adding, a bit of beauty to it.

I am heading for a mythical break in Baja, the dream wave that will envelope me, embrace me, and teach me her ways of art.


Will I make Baja? What adventures will I have along the way? Who knows. I do know this, I shall, for, there is no try, merely, do.

I love my Baja Bug, she is the perfect surf car for me. And, being Sunset Orange, well, she's just so beautiful. And, my new multi-tone green backpack is really cute. 2700 cubic inches. Internal frame. 1 pound 7 ounces.

I'm keeping my gear to Ultralight Backpacking weights, including my camping gear and surfing gear together, not counting my longboard, of course.  My goal was to get my gear down to one bag, and, I've spent the last 5 days doing just that, packing and tweaking everything again and again and again until I got it all smaller, tighter, and, well, cuter and more form fitting.

My colors, inspired by my mentor Darrick Doerner (DD) are green camouflage, including, my cute string bikini.

A lone girl, traveling the West Coast, searching through her surfing for, herself.

My Spanish is weak, my Hawaiian Pidgin, slowly coming naturally. My Hawaiian Language needs much work, and, my Surfer Speak is coming along. I'll practice all 4 languages on my trip, striving to make each the best that I can during my adventure.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

No comments:

Post a Comment