Once Upon a Break

Aloha Tribe,

Well, I've found the perfect break for me at any rate, for the time being, that is to say, from now until the second week of September. I'll be surfing here 6 to 7 days a week until I fly to the North Shore of Oahu.

I'd like to have continued my Golden Quest, but, sometimes money talks. No worries. That's the cool thing about being a Vagabond Feral Surfer, you simply adapt to what is!!!

In the process, at my new break, I'll surf as much as I can each day. My surfing and Watergirl mentor, Darrick Doerner (DD), hopes I'll be ... "ripping it," doing...

Bottom turns
Off-the-Tops
Rollercoasters
Cutbacks
Floaters
and numerous other wild moves...

before I hit the North Shore. So, I have some training ahead of me.

I'll swim each day, using my Rocket Fins for Coast Guard type Rescue Swimming practice, as well as my monofin for breaching, planning, to be the first person ever to fully breach (that is to say, leap completely clear of the water).

In addition, I'll train daily with my Gibbon Slackline, my skateboard, and a host of other exercises including rock running, Coastal Swimming (by the way, DD, I was told by a marine biologist this past weekend - he's also an international surfer - that he would NOT do Coastal Swimming where we had talked about, after all, he said "I know what's out there..." (implying, damn big fish) - but hey, what could happen, right? Best not to think of such things :)

I'll also do the Swiss Ball training, underwater rock carrying, and all the other big wave training stuff.

By the time I hit the North Shore, I should, I hope, have a fairly okay Watergirl body, shredded from speed swimming training, and honed by slow longboarding, a sort of yin and yang physical expression of movement and muscle.

I do wish my Golden Quest had worked at this time, but, no worries. My break calls, and, that's what it's all about!!!

I'll still be camping for the full month and a half or so, which is, after all, all part of the feral surfer girl experience.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley