Evening Everyone,
Sometimes the surf is flat. And yet, such times bring such smiles for me. What can compare with sitting out on the still water, alone with your thoughts. It's a peaceful time, a time of magic and reflection.
It makes me think of some of my favorite things, tide books, longboards, and surf wax.
Strap my longboard on my car, and I'm good to go, even if there is nowhere to go. Just having it with me makes me feel connected to the ocean, no matter where I am. Sure, I"m a romantic, I admit it. But that's what makes life fun, you know.
I love the smell of surf wax in my car. In fact, I keep a bar or two in my bug just for the scent and memories alone. It makes me feel, through scent, that no matter where my beautiful orange beetle is taking me, the surf is just a memory away. Scent is powerful that way. Some love the aroma of neoprene, I do, I admit. Others love the subtle smell of surf wax. Another favorite scent of mine. And of course, there's the smell of sand in the car, and salt. Such smells are magical to me, they carry me on unimaginable adventures of stoke. Sure, It's a simple way of looking at surfing, but hey, when you're stoked, you're stoked.
Another favorite of mine is tide books. Yep, the old fashioned kind, with pages and everything. Sure, there's computers today, and even surf watches, but my all time favorite is to always have a local tide book with me in my worn and rumpled canvas satchel. I find flipping through it a way to reflect on where I've been, where I am, and, where I'm going. And you know, it doesn't matter if it gets sand in (like a computer) it and there are no batteries to run down like a watch. A book, a good ol' fashioned book, a simple tide book finds me happy when I am alone in a distant coffee shop awaiting the perfect tide.
For me, it's the simple things that make surfing fun. I guess that's really what longboard surfing is all about anyways. It's a way of looking at life and being happy with what is, right here, right now. Even when your board is finless, as some of you may have read a while back about my longboard. You make due. And you adapt. And you simply chill. And breathe. Long and soft and slow.
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
Monday, December 7, 2009
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