Advanced Surfboard Shape, Lines, and Riding Expression

Aloha Tribe,

I'm finding that I actually am utterly fascinated with the shapes and lines of surfboards as they relate to performance. Now, of course, all surfers want a board that rides great, but how many of us really ponder why our boards ride as they do?

The key, to such study, it seems to me, is not only experience, namely, shaping awareness as well as excellent surfing skills.  More so though, what is truly needed, is a very special kind of experience, one that is utterly unprecidentedly  unique. In other words, you need to train yourself to be sensitive enough the the minutest subtleties of each board overall (which of course can be achieved by riding all kinds of boards) as well as with each line of each board (which comes from shaping knowledge, experience, and study)  as it relates to waves during actual performance (this, naturally, is where surfing skill comes into play).

Thus, the greater the sensitivity that one can train in their body for observing incredibly tiny subtle differences in lines, the better for this type of study and exploration. This, of course, is where a field like chi gung comes in. You see, chi gung is all about developing and honing all of your senses to peak perfection, and in the process, to full attention to the tinest changes in each sensory experience.

Therefore, the perfect blending of this would be the harmonious partnership between a gifted,  imaginative, daring shaper and a highly skilled surfer chi gung master, both of whom, preferably, must be extremely articulate. Granted, the shaper could be the surfer and the chi gung master themselves all roled into one person, but, well, hmm, you see,  that sort of defeats the idea of collaboration and the excitement and fun that mutual intellectual sharing offers, making the sum, greater than the parts.

Now sure, once upon a time, back in 5th grade, I shaped my first surfboard. But, that was then and many waves have passed since those days. Now, the chi gung master part, that, I have down, after having spent an entire lifetime studying, practicing, and mastering such a discipline. So, that leaves the surfing and shaping part, of which the surfing part in particular, to me, is the exciting and fun part, because, that is the part I am working on  now.

Eventually, my surfing skills (one day) will match my chi gung skills and body awareness levels, as well as sensitivity skills, and, at that point, finding the perfect shaper to craft with  as a partner sounds so truly exciting. For when we meet and this happens, it will  surely lead to unprecidented cutting edge surfboard technology and art, which, will immediately lead into a new awareness of riding and what can truly be expressed as the artistic lines drawn on waves by a  great and seemingly magical  board. What fun times await!!! In fact, I am utterly stoked for the day when such a harmonious blending of creative talent between two gifted people can be realized.

In the meantime, I need to surf daily. A  lot.    :)

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley