Waves and Beaches Study for Surfing Depth

Aloha Tribe,

So, I was reading a truly great book on shaping called The Basics of Surfboard  Design by Bob Smith. I think the book is awesome. It doesn't really get into how to make a board, that is to say, it doesn't focus on the techniques of how to cut foam or lay down glass, instead, if focuses on the concepts behind why boards work. The book gave me insight into truly studying my own boards, and as such, I got ideas of how to push them to test the limits of their lines.

Well, here's the cool thing. The book also references another book. A book that, Bob Smith says, that many surfers have, but how few truly enjoy studying it. So naturally, I HAD to get Waves and Beaches by  Willard Bascom.

You see, how surfboards work, and how beaches form waves, and why waves are as they are, and how different lines on boards effect their rides in certain waves and on different kinds of beaches, utterly fascinates me. For, I see this study as the core of our art. With it, we can find out who we are, for such knowledge offers personal insight into why we ride as we do and what we can expect.

So, Waves and Beaches arrived today. And, I'm utterly stoked. The only thing that could be better would be, perhaps, a sunny day and maybe a margarita to go with the book as I contemplate it's hidden gems and depths.

I know not what adventure awaits me in my studies of waves and beaches let alone the lines of surfboards, but, I know, that, when all is said and done, I'll know a little bit more about who I am.

Now I admit, I got into figuring out wave speed today in direct relation to maximum longboard paddling speed vs. wave length and wave height. And, such mathematical calculations made my eyes dance with life as I ran scenario after scenario through my mind of different breaks.

For you see, it's the subtle things, the tiniest of things that draw me and fascinate me, for, with them, comes, in time, mastery of art, and, mastery of self.

Perhaps, upon reflection, I'm a bit of a surfing science geek, dreaming of physics and math, bathymetrics and Gravitational Wave Analysis. My mind races at the possibilities, and, the conversations.

One of my favorite things to do, when I'm not surfing, is studying surfing and talking about surfing, preferably, at a pub, beer in hand, or even more to my choice, margaritas swirling waves before my mind.

When I think of surfing, I admit it, I think of the Marvel comic book Superhero too, the Silver Surfer as he flies on his board through endless space. I have almost the complete collection, minus only 6 issues. Hmm, a surfer who loves math and comic books, goodness, I'm afraid the Tribe might revoke my surfing license. :) At least I can round those odd interests out with my love of throwing knives and sticking a blade into a playing card stuck on a tree from 42 feet, without a single spin of the thrown knife. Surfers are a unique bunch, it seems.  And, I suppose, that's what makes parties such wild fun. But, getting back to the Silver Surfer, what draws me to him, besides the beautiful art and how it inspires me to move, is the paths his board takes as he surfs the stars. It's funny, but just looking at a single cover or but one page, I can feel his ride within me, the turning of his board, the speed as he races to unknown worlds, the pull of centrifical force as he slingshots around stars.  That's what surfing offers all of us, the ability to feel, to truly feel movement within our bodies. And, that is what we play with and how we play and why we play. Our sport, our art, is one of pure personal pleasure. Felt within our own bodies, as well as mutually shared when we are even more stoked for someone elses ride. Few in the world experience such bonding with others as we, the members of the Tribe. We can simply look into the eyes of another surfer, and see their life and their rides and feel them within ourselves in that moment of connction, and, what could be more beautiful than that?

And it all comes from our awareness of that which we do, our surfing. Whether it is experiential, or through study or both, such dreams become magic, and such magic, well, that is our dreams.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley