Aloha Tribe,
I'm hoping to go surfing this weekend. Yesterday, I ended up in the hospital. Totally frustrating. So, I wasn't able to surf or go swimming yesterday or today. I probably should lay low tomorrow and Friday too, but being out of the water is just killing me, you know. By Saturday, I've just got to go surfing again.
My plan, now that I know I can fit both of my 9 foot longboards inside my Subaru Outback is to go with someone and bring two longboards, one for each of us. It'll be an awesome trip, with, hopefully, about nice 4 footers or so.
I think I'll simply eat a bit of fruit between now and Saturday, just to get over what's going on health-wise, that, and doing lots of chi gung, of course. I should be in pretty good shape by Saturday, and, if so, not only do I want to surf as much as possible, but I also want to swim as much as possible, ideally if the seas or larger, maybe 6 foot or more. That would be a nice relaxed way to break back into it after a hospital visit and a few days of down time (I so way hate not exercising daily).
I have my surfboards hung in my library and I just love the smell of the surf wax on my three boards (two longboards and a thruster and soon, a new elephant gun). I find the smell very meditative, especially as it blends with my neoprene wetsuits, also in my library.
Life is awesome. How can it not be for a surfer!!! Sure, there may be a wrinkle now and again, like I've had lately, but the thing is, the surf is always coming, and that, makes me smile and my eyes to twinkle with excitement.
Love to all,
Bodaciously Stoked,
Lily of the Valley
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