Cardio for Winter North Shore Oahu Surfing Preparation

Aloha Tribe,

Darrick Doerner (DD - World Famous Big Wave Surfer and one of the orginal group of the Strap-In Crew who developed the sport of Big Wave Surfing)  who is my Surfing and Watergirl Mentor has me doing lots of cardio for preparation for my trip to the North Shore of Oahu for Winter season surfing.

Naturally, I'm surfing as much as possible, as well as swimming as much as possible, in as many different water conditions as I can, In addition though, I'm spending a lot of time hiking mountains for several  hours most every day, mountain biking up to 24 miles a day, as  well as rowing.

I'm also doing lots of balance training, focusing mostly on tightrope and slacklining, which, while not exactly cardio, certainly are intense workouts, especially when done for several hours every day.

In addition, I'm doing a bit of running as often as I can throughout the day. That being said, I'm a much better swimmer than runner, running being my weakest skill, thus, just like what I read that Kelly Slater did when he trained, I am trying to do as much of my weakest skill as I can to improve that, then, I move to my next weakest skill.

With all of this exercise, I'm also doing lots of flexibility training for hours, focusing on Tree Yoga and Slackline Yoga.

During my "downtime" each day, I'm training my Freediving.

I realize, of course, that many people say that the best exercise for surfing is, surfing. But, as my Coach and Mentor says, as he shared  a direct quote from our friend Gerry Lopez, "surf for tomorrow." Basically, that means be careful when you surf and train. Not so much that you don't push the limits, of course, but, not to take silly chances.

In the last few weeks, I've now had, frustratingly, about 17 broken bones. Fortunately, using the Chi Gung that I have studied since I was aged 5, I have been able to heal each of them in a matter of days.

This brings me to an interesting dream of mine, one thing I so hope with all of my heart to do is to help and heal sick and hurt surfers using my Chi Gung skills. I truly believe that each of us of The Tribe, needs to use our own unique Gifts in any way we can to help those surfers around us, thus, in our own way, making the surfing world and thus the world a little bit of a better place. Bottom line, it's all about caring. Which, begins with ourselves. And that's the point of this post, we need to push and train and prepare ourselves to the best that we can for whatever kind of surfing we plan to do. In this way, we can surf strong, and to the top of our potential, my dream for myself, to surf beautifully and with receptivity to the sea.

While my training seems scattered in its variety, if one looks at it carefully, it is seen that each and every skill is geared specifically to improve my surfing, and, in the case of this post at least, for improving my cardio. Which, brings up an interesting point. I truly believe that one of the best cardio training methods a surfer can do is to spend a lot of time in the water, hours and hours every day, preferably in the roughest seas possible, doing lots of ocean swimming for as long and as hard as possible every day. With that, living in the Pacific Northwest, I am blessed with some of the wildest seas on the planet in the Winter, so intense, Oregon and Washington are the places where the Coast Guard Rescue Swimmers train. Golly, I'd love to be one of those guys, well, in a girl sort of way, of course.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Chi Gung Surfing, Slackline Chi Gung, Tree Yoga - for Surfing

Aloha Tribe,

So, I've been working on a number of disciplines to improve my surfing. Namely...

1. Chi Gung

2. Slacklining

3. Slackline Yoga

4. Slackline Chi Gung

5. Tree Yoga

6. Silver Surfer Longboard Yoga


Each of these arts dances together in a harmony of balance. Since balance is the root of all that is behind surfing, by training in these other disciplines, I am able to work on my balance from a variety of angles.

Chi Gung, as I see it, is the root of surfing, for it is behind all that we do as surfers, its simply that most have not heard the term nor know the discipline. Essentially, it involves a variety of stationary as well as moving postures, all flowing together in gentle rounded movements, in harmony with ones breath and the energy of the body as well as beyond our bodies, chi.


Slacklining is standing, walking, and moving on a thin strip of tubular webbing, often about an inch in diameter, sometimes less, sometimes more. Essentially, a piece of webbing is strung between two solid supports such as trees, boulders and the like, and you stand, sit, and move on the line as it gently sways.


Slackline Yoga is all about doing yoga poses while on the slackline. It is a beautiful, soft, gentle, magical  approach to movement, stillness, and life.

Slackline Chi Gung involves doing Chi Gung on a slackline, just as Chi Gung Surfing is about doing Chi Gung while one surfs. In both cases, it brings a combination of internal and external awareness to what you are doing, be it walking on a slackline or surfing a wave. At it's most basic, the art involves learning to harmonize your physical muscular movements  with your breath. This method is called Wai Chi. And, at more advanced levels, you harmonize your bodies internal energy or chi, as well as the energy beyond yourself from a wave or the sky or earth, and you blend that energy with your own and move it through your body as you dance with the energy of nature.

Tree Yoga involves using various straps suspended from trees to aid in your Yoga practice. Using these straps, one can also bring them to the Slackline for Slackline Yoga practice. In addition, you could use a NOHO Surf Balance Trainer set up under a tree, and use the straps from Tree Yoga to help you hold various static and dynamic movements on your surfboard when it is on dry land. This form of practice is a variation of Zhan Zhong, and, in this format would be Tree Yoga Surfboard Zhan Zhong. Standing in such postures, one might hold them for one to several hours to allow the body to slowly grown into each new pose. It is truly a beautiful art with infinite depth to explore, both internally and externally.

And of course, that brings us to Silver Surfer NOHO Surf Balance Trainer Yoga. As I've mentioned in other posts, my inspirtation comes from the Marvel Superhero, the Silver Surfer and that fact that he spends so much of his life literally on his board. As such, I am learning to use my NOHO Surf Balance Trainer as a way to truly explore the depth of my balance on my longboard. With such a tool, it is possible to literally train on your board all day, overnight, and for however long you choose to remain on the board and NOHO Surf Balance Trainer. It is truly a phenomenal experience and is not to be missed for it offers such an awareness that is beyond imagination. Rather trippy, actually.

So, by combining these various training methods into different combinations, I'm slowly working on honing my surfing balance for when I hit the waves.

I am searching for an art that is as beautiful to see as it is to feel.  I seek an art that is soft, gentle, receptive, feminine, flowing, beautiful, rounded, playful.  Last night, I spent most of the night in personal exploration of muscular movement through yoga, bringing me to new heights of snesory awareness and a much greater limberness today. Truly awesome!!!

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Slackline Yoga for Surfing

Aloha Tribe,

I love slacklines and slacklining. I suppose it comes from my years of studying Monkey Kung Fu where I spent a fair amount of time training on a 1 inch diameter manilla rope. In any event, slacklining, for those of you who don't know, involves standing and walking on a thin strip of mountain climbing webbing, typically about an inch wide or so. The line is attached between two supports such as trees, and hangs loosely, hence, slackline, as opposed to a tightwire, which, is not only a wire, but also incredibly tightly strung.

Because of the looseness of a slackline, it creates perpetual dynamic motion, which, applies perfectly to surfing. In fact, if you can walk a slackline, surfing seems much easier in comparision.

Now then, slackline yoga is doing yoga while dancing, walking, standing, sitting, and laying on a slackline.  As you can imagine, it is a wonderful way to work on balance, more so, it is a sport unto itself, just as slacklining is also.

So, I've been practicing today, sort of a flowing dance styled slackline yoga  for hours and hours where I flowed from position to position set to  music I have from the '60's such as Na Na Hey Hey Kiss Him Good Bye by Steam (one of my favorite songs and the song I play in my head while I surf and train for surfing).

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Subtle Dynamic Surfing Balance Training on NOHO Surf Balance Trainer

Aloha Tribe,

Yesterday was an interesting and fun day of training. I spent about 6 hours or so working on subtle movement awareness. I used my NOHO Surf Balance Trainer since I can get so much practice time on it for such training.

For example, let's say that a typical surf ride is, oh, perhaps, 8 seconds. And, let's assume it typically is about a half our wait between rides, what with paddling out, and waiting for the right wave and of course, honoring etiquette by allowing other surfers to catch waves when it is their turn. So, given that, one actually "practices" surfing, perhaps 8 to 10 seconds per half hour, or, in  about a 6 hour session, roughly, 10 or twelve rides. Now, compare that to 6 solid hours of training on a NOHO or Indo Board or balance disks or slackline or whatevers.  In such a case, the 8 seconds then spread out is like what, 3600 rides or so? That's like years and years worth in a day.

Thus, training is valuable. The key, of course, is that it needs to be fun. And, for me, trying to perfect extremely minute and subtle surfing movements and the awareness of each, is radically fun.  Consider it a character flaw of mine, I guess. I'm way totally into movement, what can I say?

The funny thing is, after about 6 hours of intense highly focused internal training, when it finally came time for me to do my home chores, namely, to check on my chickens out in their chicken coup, the walk out to them of 50 yards or so made me feel like the most uncoordinated girl on the face of the planet.

Why? Because I walked with awareness.

You see, when we walk, we actually are simply falling forward out of balance in a case of complete abandon. We're damn lucky we don't fall with each step we take. But, as babies, we learn to master walking, and, unless one trains like I did yesterday, we typically forget about how we walk and we mindlessly meander here or there in our lives, giving our actual walking style and techniques, let alone bringing full body awareness to each step, simply, out of our minds.

With every walking step, we actually are falling forward briefly, as our bodies pass our centerline of balance.  And, it's only by swinging our unwaited foot forwards, that we can catch ourselves and seemingly, walk gracefully.

Interestingly enough, with attention to detail, I noticed in myself extremely tiny lateral shifts as I walk, shifts, I'd normally never even notice. But, because I worked so intently on subtle dynamic surfing balance movement training yesterday, my ungraceful and unintentional body shifts of "normal" walking, SCREAMED to my brain that I was damned luck I didn't topple over with each step.

A simple way to try this yourselves is to merely close your eyes, and, walk forwards as slowly as you can. For many of you, I'd imagine, it'll feel like your world is turning on end and it's the end of the world as we know it.

Pretty cool physical sensations actually. Rather trippy, I must say. Trippy is good.

So, yesterday, I worked with muscle groups, such as the rotation of my forward arm to see how it would effect balance, or a raising or lowering of my thighs or arms. Each muscular movement created different subltle sensations on my surfboard as I dropped my nose or tail or dipped a rail left or right, focusing on 9 directions of movement, namely center, left, right, forwards, backwards, forward left, forward right, backwards left,  and backwards right, then, to various degrees of movement such as a 1/2 inch drop in the nose or tail or a 1/4 inch dip of a rail. Interestingly enough, I used a carpenters level to work on the subtleties visually. It has bubbles that can shift forwards or backwards and left and right, so I simply laid it on my board and worked for hours with it. The hours flew as I was completely in the zone.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Silver Surfer Longboard Yoga

Aloha Tribe,

I've been thinking of hanging on my longboard a lot lately. And, balance training. And, yoga. As some of you know, as they sort of inspirationally relate to the Silver Surfer.

At any rate, I've found that I truly love doing yoga on my board. More so, simply moving on my board. It's the act of moving, the flowing muscular contractions and extentensions themselves that I'm finding not only so enjoyable, but more so, truly fascinating for personal exploration.

Naturally, of course, this all ties in with my lifetimes experience in Chi Gung and how the body's energy moves on, within, and around our bodies.You see, the more sensitive you are to Chi, the more you can embrace movement fully, both internally and externally, which, paradoxically, is really what surfing is about for all of us, though, naturaly, few if any call it Chi, many simply have no name for it, and, some, call it Stoke.

It's energy. That feeling of flowing movement that calls us, sings to us, guides us, embraces us, and, allows us to be truly receptive to how it flows and touches us.

As such,  I've found that Longboard Yoga is allowing me to sense this energy in a playful way as I explore stretching my muscles while balanced on my surfboard.

And, the more I'm doing it, the more I've finding that it draws me, with a fascination unexplainable, and a yearning, truly magical. Enough so that here, in the middle of the night, I've been called to such movement flowing for the last several hours.Sleep, that can wait. My longboard sings to me and I can't resist her siren song.

I like to think, that in the Marvel Universe of comic books, that the Silver Surfer feels the same way, or would, of course, if he were not merely a comic book Superhero but instead, literally living flesh and blood and yearnings.

For you see, in such physical expression on our boards, we find, not only ourselves, but, art. And that, at least for me, makes me smile. For what is more beautiful than playing with art? You know, that pure in-the-moment sensation we all embrace on our boards as we ride, or, in my case, even stretch with yoga and Chi Gung.

Sure, using something like a comic book Superhero as inspiration is, in a sense, seemingly childish and immature, on the other hand, perhaps it's not so upon second thought, for, what but myth if not story? And, within myth, lies legends of heroes.

So maybe imagination and fun are merely playful, leading to art, and thus, leading to finding out more about ourselves.

I'm finding that with my surfboard, I'm learning, my body, I'm learning how I move and dance receptively to the sea, I am, in a word, learning, me.

I eagerly await the coming morning, though I must say, the full moon tonight sings to my wild primal soul so strongly. Tonight would be a great night for a Night Ride, surfing the sea in moonlite magic.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Silver Surfer Training Camp!!!

Aloha Tribe,

Hey, so, I had a way totally fun idea. Okay, sure, silly, but, fun too. I'm going to create a Silver Surfer Training Camp for improving my surfing.

My inspiration, of course, comes from complete collection of  the Marvel  Superhero The Silver Surfer comic books. I even have "baseball" type cards of him, statues and figurines, t-shirts, and, sure, this is nurdy, but I have a Silver Surfer pillow case on my pillow too. Hobbies, goodness.

At any  rate, my thought for my training camp was that the Silver Surfer is more or less always on his surf board or, at the very least, he has it with him or very close.

So, I figured, with someone like him, pretending of course he truly existed, he must be the greatest of all surfers since he's always surfing. And that's when the lightbulb went on.

I'd set up a Silver Surfer Training camp where, to begin with, I'd stay on my surfboard for 24 hours straight. If that works, I'd extend it into a full weekend, Friday evening through Sunday evening.

I have a NOHO Surf Trainer which when hooked onto my longboard allows it to wobble side to side as well as toward the nose or tail. You all should get a NOHO if you don't have one, by the way.

Well, hooking the NOHO onto my board, I can then get on my board and simulate surfing movements on a moving board. As such, I figured I'd spend the first 24 hours more or less living on the board. I'd do my yoga on it. Read my Silver Surfer comic book collection on it, for inspiration of course. Eat and drink on the board. And, sleep on my longboard too. Even taking care of bathroom needs really isn't a problem since I have one of those camping Lugable Loo portable toilet buckets that I can also set right up on my board for when I needed it.

Basically, I'd have all the stuff I'd need like food, water, the Lugable Loo, my comic books, and so on within arms reach of my board. Then, I simply grab what I need, while remaining on the surfboard. And, when it comes time to sleep, I simply, lay down on my board.

It'll be interesting to see what comes of this after the 24 hours. And more so, if I can indeed do it for a full weekend too. It should be truly fascinating training, more so, rather fun and silly, and, what better way to relax and loosen up than to giggle at oneself's silliness, so, why not?

Oh, the other cool idea I had involving this is to bring my longboard and NOHO Surf Trainer outside and set it up on various angled hills I have in my yard where the board can point downhill, uphill, and even sideways on hills, all at various degrees of angle. Thus, while staying on the board in such situations, simulating, of course, The Silver Surfer as he flies through the universe to different galaxies with various levels of gravity and angles and such, I'll be actually practicing a form of extremely advanced Chi Gung training called Zhan Zhong or Stake Standing, only modified, of course, to fit my Silver Surfer idea, which, paradoxically, will help develop my body for ridiing various angled and sized waves, not unlike the concepts behind Drunken Style Kung Fu, actually, namely, that the body  grows or adapts to the changes put upon on it, thereby learning to adjust to seemingly unbalanced positions.

This should be fun. The only thing that would make it more fun would be to have a bunch of people to share the camp with. It'd be a lot of fun as a group sort of thing. Nerdy, sure, but fun!!!

Silver Surfer Graphic Novel Home Coming (October 1991) Wow, what a cover and what a cool surfing pose!!!

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Balance Training, Yin Yoga, and Mushashi Meditation

Aloha Tribe,

For the next three days, I'll be heavy concentrating on surfing, swimming, Rocket Rescue Fin swimming, monofin swimming, developing swimmer's muscles using a training program taught to me by the head lifeguard on Kauai, balance training, practicing Yin Yoga, slacklining, and meditating and studying on the writings of the 17th Century Japanese Swordsmand Mushashi.

I'm looking forward to a really intense workout and study. I'll also continue my study my three languages of Hawaiian Language, Surfing Language, and Hawaiian Pidgin Language.

I'll also be training Bone/Marrow Chi Gung and Tendon/Brain Washing Chi Gung styles.

For the most part,  I'll be training with intense focus from dawn to dusk, then, into the night with studies. My diet will mostly consist simply of fruit (mangoes, papayas, pineapple), and water.

My goal, by the time I finish Thursday morning, will be a renewed sense of Physical Balance, a more honed swimmer's body, and increased health and Aloha happiness.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

One Foot Waves Lead to Personal Exploration of Style

Aloha Tribe,

Tomorrow, the waves are supposed to be one foot. Now, hmm, some of you might be saying. But not me. You see, I was told that if I could learn to surf one foot waves, if I could truly master them, then, I could ride almost anything. For, in such basics, lie the secrets to potential and surfing dreams.

So, as you can see, I'm rather totally stoked about tomorrow's sets. It will be fun to paddle into them, and, they offer such a wealth of personal experimentation. Why, it's actually merely limited by one's own imagination and creativity.

I'll try Take-offs, naturally. And, variations such as No Paddle Take-Offs and also Paddle Out Rentrys. both of which, are favorites of mine. Interestingly enough too, both were learned, by, accident. I suppose it's that way with most surfing moves, like my Submarine, for example. The name for that was created for me by some surfers on Kauai after hearing about the move. And, while it's a bit of a go to do, it'll be fun to try it tomorrow too.

Naturally, I'll practice my Pop Ups, Angles, and Drop Ins. And, if possible, some fun Pull Outs. I've always preferred Pull Outs to Kick Outs, and, while many if not most surfers don't really differntiate between the two, to me, they are light years apart, Yin and Yang, actually, for one uses softness, smoothness, grace, beauty, feminine flowing movement, and style, and, the other, well, it's rather staccato, angular, quick, abrupt, and jerky. Clearly, the first is more feminine and girly, and the second, much more macho, guy like, and aggressive, as moves go.

I'd love to practice Prone Outs, for I love them so, and, Knee Riding, but, my Surfing Mentor has forbidden me from doing either. At least White Water exploration is still doable and okay according to the "rules," that I follow in my training. As long as I don't do too much of it, of course.

I'm really stoked about some little one foot waves, for what more challenge, yes? Just think, mastery of such a tiny wave, wow, now that would be a wildly fun dream, at least to me.

I truly hope that it works out and that I can take a Surfari tomorrow. It'll be wild.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Siltarp2 for Surfers: A Great Surfer's Shelter

Aloha Tribe,

I love camping, and, since surfing, especially Vagabond Feral Soul Surfing involves traveling around quite a bit to exotic breaks, it's great to travel ultralight.

I've found a perfect shelter that works great for me as a wandering surfing. It's the Integral Designs Siltarp2. Basically, it's an ultralight ripstop nylon tarp, weighing mere ounces (about 14 oz.), yet, it repels rain and snow (it is a waterproof nylon), wind and blowing sand, and, for times when you want shade, it offers protection from the sun. It has loops on each corner, as well as every 2 feet, and, an additional loop in the center, so, it is easy to set up in any configuration you'd want or need. There is a center seam down the length of it, but it comes with a sealant called Silnet Seam Sealant so you don't have to worry about getting wet.

Mine is the 8' x 10' Siltarp2, in gray. I also have another one that is olive.

I love hammock camping, and, this tarp is perfect for stretching out above my hammock, giving me ample room to stand next to my hammock or sit, yet, at the same time remain beneath shelter. I also love the Siltarp2 simply as a shelter all by itself. You simply stake it out (I use titanium stakes, they're light weight), and, if you need to, lay a bedroll and sleeping bag beneath the tarp and you have a super shelter.

I know that not too many of The Tribe use shelters, but, why not? A simple, versatile shelter like this can go anywhere, takes almost no room or weight to carry, and yet, it offers so much. You can even change behind it if you're so inclined to privacy.

The tarp also comes in woodland camo, tan, and even yellow. My next one will definitely be the 8 x 10 woodland camo. I love that one. Had I known about it before, I'd have bought it first!!!

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Slacklining and Pole Walking for Surfing

Aloha Tribe,

I'll be training hard for the next 46 days or so, dividing my training between swimming, surfing, and slacklining and pole walking. The swimming, is to help me get a lean Watergirl body, and the others, are for my surfing.

I'm hoping that by spending so much time balancing, my surfing will have a few leaps and bounds in the weeks to come. Time, will tell.

Surfing where I do, in extremely strong cross currents and rip currents, with constant closed out waves, and periods as short as 4 seconds, my paddling conditioning should skyrocket over the next month and a half or so.

Thus, half my time will focus on balance.

At the beach, I'll set my slackline up between large driftwood logs. And, at my campsite, I'll simply set it up in the trees. My goal, is to slackline and pole walk every hour or so, focusing, in improvement based on softness and receptivity to movement.

For inspiration, tonight, I'll have some  great Pinot Noir wine while watching the movie Man on Wire  starring Philippe Petit, a true tightrope wire walker genius. 


Tonight shall be truly inspirational fun!!!

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

The Vagabond Feral Soul Surfer

Aloha Tribe,

We each, all of us, surf our own path. This, is simply the wave I'm listening to now.

So, what exactly is a Vagabond Feral Soul Surfer? Hmm, well, it's fun you asked. First off, such a surfer surfs and travels, for the most part, alone. They are an Independent. A Solo.  And, in their Wanderings, they move from break to break with no real plan, simply, instead, following a sort of intuition of the sea, a calling of sea chi (mana), if you want to think of it that way.

Such travels are seemingly without purpose, yet, it is the call, the feeling, that leads the Vagabond Feral Soul Surfer. And, beneath all paths, even those seemingly aimless, lies, a goal, if only, to lose oneself on the path to self discovery and internal stoke.

As a Soul Surfer, one simply surfs for the pure love of it. For, the feeling. The sensation.  The stoke!!! It is a path a great many of The Tribe follow. Even the pros, in their hearts.

And, as a feral, well, that implies one searches out "the wilds," even, if the wilds are simply within the individual surfer's own experience, that is to say, a new and fresh break, as yet to be explored by the surfer on the quest.

Which, if you put it all together, simply means that a surfer travels, perhaps far, possibly simply within at a local break, letting their own energy or chi (mana) guide them, in other words, basically just listening to intution. Now, granted, it's a bit more complicated than that, after all, to truly follow such a path, one surrenders their will to the call, heeding the next break, not from choice, but instead, from feeling. Simply put,  it just feels right. And, in these meanderings and adventuresome ramblings, the surfer is not after money, fame, and glory, but instead, simply, the ride. More so, the feeling of the ride!!!

For the ride, is the thing.

In a way.

Now, that's not to say one has to constantly ride. Far from it. When done with Aloha, that internal stoke of any particular wave stays with you. Forever. It simply becomes a matter of calling forth the remembrance of a given break at a certain time, for a specific ride. If we but quiet ourselves deeply enough, we each can call forth such imagery. A key, to that, by the way, is breathing. Slow, rhythmic, quiet, soft, gentle, beautiful, natural, receptive breathing, sort of, like in a sense, surfing breath itself. For, that is what one does as you grow deeper into the art of chi gung surfing.


Living in such a way, namely, with internal Aloha stoke, it's the culture of surfing that we embrace. The International Tribe, if you want to think of it that way, and, our collective memories and experiences, and dreams of that which was, that which is (our specialty), and that which will be.


Now then, getting back to Feral, well, perhaps it is an adventure to the wilds somewhere, a place, that nobody has ever surfed. Or, perhaps it's simply a new spot for you, or, a new way to ride an old break. The bottom line,  it's all about feeling and how we each, individually, relate to that.


Moving along gently to the vagabond aspect, one simply travels. With no plan (that's the key and the definition). Perhaps staying here. Or there. For, awhile. Until, the feeling calls again and it's time to move once more. To another break. And, another wave.


Such passion for life and surfing is, I suppose, many surfer's dream, yet, realistically, few surfer's realized dream. For most, I would imagine, fall to obligations of life, unless, we each learn to hold, deep within ourselves, our stoke.


That being said, the Vagabond Feral Soul Surfer is still out there in the world, not some relic from the 60's and early 70's but instead, still there, just, harder to find. Wandering. Traveling, more than likely, ultralightly. With but a board, probably battered, and a bag or two. You can know such a person by their eyes. And, their smile. For it stands out, even in mega-crowded line-ups. Though, that being said, such a person seldom would be in such a line-up, for, they would have ridden at a different time, a time of their own calling, in a place, only their heart knows.


Living such a lifestyle brings a uniqueness to surfing that calls the hearts and souls of many. For, it is the dream that most of us have grown up with. Of bygone days. Yesteryear. When the waves were uncrowded, there were no competitions,  no money, and it was simply he sea itself that called us to dance.


My trip, starting in the tomorrow in morning, early, will be such a trip. To the wilds. Literally. Yet, also, internally. For my quest is about the feeling. I'm not so much after the perfect wave, nor the pefect place, but more so, the feeling of the flowing, not as a form of perfection, but instead, merely as a means to surrendering within and finding my own flow, matching my ride, with, what happens inside my body, to my own chi (mana).

I seek not big waves. Nor small waves. Neither crowded waves. Nor uncrowded waves. Instead, I search for  that which takes place inside ourselves. For my dance, as is the dance of so many of us,  one of surrender and following, in order to grow and explore the wild new frontiers within myself.


Bodaciously Stoked,


Lily of the Valley

Once Upon a Break

Aloha Tribe,

Well, I've found the perfect break for me at any rate, for the time being, that is to say, from now until the second week of September. I'll be surfing here 6 to 7 days a week until I fly to the North Shore of Oahu.

I'd like to have continued my Golden Quest, but, sometimes money talks. No worries. That's the cool thing about being a Vagabond Feral Surfer, you simply adapt to what is!!!

In the process, at my new break, I'll surf as much as I can each day. My surfing and Watergirl mentor, Darrick Doerner (DD), hopes I'll be ... "ripping it," doing...

Bottom turns
Off-the-Tops
Rollercoasters
Cutbacks
Floaters
and numerous other wild moves...

before I hit the North Shore. So, I have some training ahead of me.

I'll swim each day, using my Rocket Fins for Coast Guard type Rescue Swimming practice, as well as my monofin for breaching, planning, to be the first person ever to fully breach (that is to say, leap completely clear of the water).

In addition, I'll train daily with my Gibbon Slackline, my skateboard, and a host of other exercises including rock running, Coastal Swimming (by the way, DD, I was told by a marine biologist this past weekend - he's also an international surfer - that he would NOT do Coastal Swimming where we had talked about, after all, he said "I know what's out there..." (implying, damn big fish) - but hey, what could happen, right? Best not to think of such things :)

I'll also do the Swiss Ball training, underwater rock carrying, and all the other big wave training stuff.

By the time I hit the North Shore, I should, I hope, have a fairly okay Watergirl body, shredded from speed swimming training, and honed by slow longboarding, a sort of yin and yang physical expression of movement and muscle.

I do wish my Golden Quest had worked at this time, but, no worries. My break calls, and, that's what it's all about!!!

I'll still be camping for the full month and a half or so, which is, after all, all part of the feral surfer girl experience.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

And So, It Begins!!! Vagabond Feral Surf Trip: Seattle to Malibu

Aloha Tribe,

So, tomorrow, early, my adventure begins. I'll be leaving the Seattle area, hitting a Straits break by early morning and there, surfing and doing Watergirl Training for the day at Tentacles. I'll camp overnight, then surf the next day and do more Watergirl Training. And then, off down the Pacific Coast, headed, South. My golden quest to Malibu sings my soul!!!

The breaks will call to me each day, talking story to me of where to surf and stay. Sometimes, I'd imagine, I may surf a given break for several days. Other times, I'll surf a bit then hit the road again.

I'll be traveling Ultralight as an Ultralight Vagabond Feral Surfer. My trip will probably last about a month and a half or so. And, once I return, I'll be home about a week then off to the North Shore of Oahu for somewhere between a month and possibly up to 4 months of Hawaii surfing.

My Car: Orange VW Turbo Bug with Safari Rack

My Board: 10' Single Fin Aqua Green BK

My  Backpack: Women's GoLite Jam (23 oz. unpacked of course)

My Wetsuit: O'Neil Psycho 1

My Bikini: Woodland Camouflage String Bikini

A Gibbon Slackline: for balance training and yoga, naturally

One Pair of Rocket Fins - for my Rescue Swimmer Training part of Watergirl Skills

The root or base part of my quest, that is to say, the spiritual/Shamanic part, is to go to the Morrison Apartments, where Jim Morrison from The Doors, lived on his friends rooftop during the beginning of his journey back in the Summer of '65. I'd love to stay in the area and surf and meditate, slackline, fast, swim, write, and just be, for as long as I can, ideally a week or so.


Adventure abounds.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

The Watergirl Surfer's Beachparty Cookbook!!!

Aloha Tribe,

So, I've been thinking. My trip is coming quickly. In, two or three days. In any event, up until just now, I've been planning on traveling ultralight. Keeping my total gear (hammock tent, cooking gear, sleeping bag, clothes, toiletries, miscellaneous accessories, and so on, including my wetsuit (all stuffed inside of my tiny less than  two pounds backpack), but not counting my board, at under 20 pounds.

But, today, I read a book. A cookbook actually. The Summer Shack Cookbook by Jasper White. And, it got me thinking about my Watergirl training in addition to my surfing training. After all, my quest is about both.

And, that got me thinking about meals. Now, here in the Pacific Northwest where I hang my board, I can go to my local break and surf it alone pretty much anytime day or night, and, if there are a few people out, I can, if I choose, simply drift down the beach a bit and have all the breaks I want totally to myself. Well, while that's all fun and great and quite possibly every surfer's dream, hanging with other surfers, talking story, and, yes, cooking and eating great meals freshly prepared from the sea, is part of the whole lifestyle too.

So, I might, might mind you, bring my cast iron three legged cooking pot with me. I hadn't thought of it until just now, since, it would make a lot of food, but, what better way to meet the local surfers on my journey than to feed them all some of the greatest food in their lives. For what could be better than fresh oysters, wild crab, freshly caught fish of all types, and seaweed so fresh it's still alive with energy!!!  all flavored with local flavors and cooking magic.

I had been thinking of writing a book of my adventures, figuring, up until now, it would be a surfing book. But, as of this moment, I might add a second book, in this case, a cookbook, too, a Surfer's Cookbook. Hmm, The Watergirl Surfer's Beach Party Cookbook.

Hey, it's a thought.

So, between sets, I simply harvest some seafood, then, prepare it in my pot for all to share.

If I do this, and, you happen to see a girl cooking over a large black cast iron cauldron, wearing a camouflaged string bikini, that, would be me. And, if so, welcome, come on over for some yummy food and talking story time.

I might just bring the cookbook with me. It could be an adventure. And, it most certainly would be fun reading at night.

Surfing is increasing in popularity daily, it seems. So, it's time to rekindle the surf party of yesteryear too. And, it seems to me, that can best be done with great seafood caught and harvested fresh daily from the ocean's bounty.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Maps

Aloha Tribe,

Today, I've been contemplating my route from Seattle to Baja. I've toyed with the idea of bringing tons of maps and guide books and sea charts of water depths, and on and on, but, you know, when it all comes down to it, I'll probably just toss my backpack into my VW bug, strap my board on top of the roof, and, follow my nose south.

Sure, I could prepare totally, yet, part of the fun of being a Vagabonding Feral Surfer Girl is that wild things happen. And, as such, one simply, adapts to what is. And, accepts what comes. Which, really, is what my Soul Surfing search for style is all about. Simply, being receptive.

So, when it comes down to it and I pull off of my single lane dirt road onto the beckoning highway, I'll be heading out into the wilds, underequipped, semi-lost, yet, with the sure path, convictions, and mostly, passion,  of a surfer who's mind, body, and spirit dance to the call of the crashing sea.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Vagabonding Soul Surfer: Quest: Mysto Break Baja

Aloha Tribe,

So, I'm into my last week of training before my vagabonding soul surfer trip from Washington State to Baja.

I just finished getting my single bag, a green backpack, packed. I'll be bringing one backback, one longboard, and my bright orange VW Bug with her cute safari roof rack.

I'll probably head out next weekend, and, more than likely, travel until about the beginning of September, surfing as many breaks between here and there as I can.

I've already explored all 45 breaks in Washington State, and, about a dozen in northern Oregon.  though I'll be hitting several of those that are going off again as my journey begins.

I won't have access to my computer until I get back, though, I might be able to submit an entry now and again by writing it and having a friend type it in just to keep the Tribe up-to-date, in case any of you are interested in this quest of mine.

What am I searching for? Soul. That is to say, Soul Surfing. I want to find beauty in my movements, receptivity to the waves as they form. I want my surfing to be fully about surrendering.

My goal is to surf as much as I can each day, ideally striving to surf as much as possible each day. When I'm not surfing, I'll drive, camp, and reflect upon my surfing.

My full focus will be on the sea and my Watergirl Training as I learn to express my art, searching, for, style.

I am a Feral Surfer. A Vagabonding  Soul Surfer. A girl, with a dream of being a Watergirl.

Before the year is out, which, was and is the point of my blog, I dream to have progressed from a Kahuna Tuna to a Big Wave Rider. At least, a little big wave. And then, by 2012. well, I'm getting ready for the coming wave.

This week, starting in a few hours actually, I'll continue my intense training by camping at the coast for the next week until I leave on my trip, focusing on softening my surfing style. Smoothing it out. Adding, a bit of beauty to it.

I am heading for a mythical break in Baja, the dream wave that will envelope me, embrace me, and teach me her ways of art.


Will I make Baja? What adventures will I have along the way? Who knows. I do know this, I shall, for, there is no try, merely, do.

I love my Baja Bug, she is the perfect surf car for me. And, being Sunset Orange, well, she's just so beautiful. And, my new multi-tone green backpack is really cute. 2700 cubic inches. Internal frame. 1 pound 7 ounces.

I'm keeping my gear to Ultralight Backpacking weights, including my camping gear and surfing gear together, not counting my longboard, of course.  My goal was to get my gear down to one bag, and, I've spent the last 5 days doing just that, packing and tweaking everything again and again and again until I got it all smaller, tighter, and, well, cuter and more form fitting.

My colors, inspired by my mentor Darrick Doerner (DD) are green camouflage, including, my cute string bikini.

A lone girl, traveling the West Coast, searching through her surfing for, herself.

My Spanish is weak, my Hawaiian Pidgin, slowly coming naturally. My Hawaiian Language needs much work, and, my Surfer Speak is coming along. I'll practice all 4 languages on my trip, striving to make each the best that I can during my adventure.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

The Return to Soul Surfing

Aloha Tribe,

Soul Surfing has been lost. Lost to time, and changes in society. And, the need for money. But, it's coming back. In the eyes of a few daring pioneers.

Soul Surfing, to me, is a shamanic experience. It is, in fact, shamanism, as I see it and live it. My goal, is to travel the world, helping and healing those I can, who, happen along the coast or on the way to the sea. Using the mana, energy, or chi of the ocean, I am shaping my chi gung skills to find new and unexplored ways of expression of healing. It is, a yin path, the path of water, yet, within that, lies yang, for, the waves power the path.

As I travel from break to break, I'll watch. And listen. To the sea, and, all who are near. And, with a soft smile, I'll share what little art I possess in the use of chi gung as a shamanic soul surfer tool.

My path before me, I imagine, will be filled with challenges and adventures unknown at the moment, yet, sensed, for they are what call my spirit.

My  board, my style of riding, my performance art, if you will, all will center upon the art of the Soul Surfer.

This will include movement, color, sound, smell, sight, and every physical sensation.

It is, a unique plan, a rather odd  goal and path, yet, one that beckons truly and purely. For it is the innocence and purity of the path which offer it's true power and magic.

It all began, a year ago, with a dream, while lying sick in a hospital. And, in the last few months has begun manifesting itself as reality.

The more I embrace it, the softer I become. The more I surf, the more I find out about my surfing and what it can do and teach and offer as I learn from it.

I am, like the gunfighter of the old west, wandering from town to town, only, in this case, my 6 shooter is my surfboard, my towns, surf breaks.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Soul Surfing

Aloha Tribe,

Many wonder what Soul Surfing is. Basically, it's nothing more than surfing for the love of surfing. Sure, tons can be said about it such as how to get deeper into it, how to live it, how to perfect it and even turn it into a sort of physical art, but, really, when you get down to it, it's just about loving what you do. Truly loving it. And, that's the secret that I suspect many miss. Genuine passion. For many have lost touch with that, seeking it, in, their surfing and through surfing.

Can it be quantified? No, not really. Should it even be attempted? Of course not. Yet, there are ways to make the true appreciation deeper, which, provide a dramatically greater sense of love and stoke.

And, what is the key? Physical training is the root, mental training is the art. Just like, with Chi Gung.

Wai Chi or Wai Dan and Nei Chi or Nei Dan. First, physical. Then, mental.

Interestingly enough, neither path ever ends, for each, provides bottomless exploration and infinite depth of mastery upon mastery.

The secret to mastery? Why, mastery, of course. For, in the martial arts, as well as calligraphy and other similar disciplines, it is said that once one masters simply one thing, then, all things can be mastered. A much deeper reflection than simple perusal would suggest.

Before enlightenment, one surfs, for fun. After enlightenment, one surfs, for fun. It's really, that simple.

A surfing paraphrase of something the martial artist Bruce Lee said, is something to the effect of... Before I surfed, surfing was simply surfing. After I mastered surfing, surfing was no longer surfing. Now, that I understand the depths of surfing, surfing, is, simply, surfing.

All rooted, of course, in, fun.

Many professional surfers, sadly, lose sight of this, lost, in money and contracts and obligations.

My path toward Soul Surfing is leading me along the way of the Feral Surfer. I am training myself, under the guidance of DD, to travel the world as a Watergirl, a Feral Surfer with one board and one bag and nothing more. This path is quickly becoming my lifestyle. My way of life. My, path.

I have several boards in my quiver, one of them, my Feral Board. My 10' aqua green BK. At the moment, I have one sticker on it, besides the BK logo. It is a pink Hawaiian sea turtle, for my board is named, Honu. It is my Feral Board, and, as such, is a hippy girl board, so tomorrow, assuming it's not raining, I'll be sticking on numerous hippy stickers such as peace signs, daisy flowers, and perhaps a rock group sticker such as Hendrix or The Doors.

My board currently has a retro Bob Anderson 60's retro single fin on it.

I'm not sure of the perfect travel bag yet. I'm still searching. The challenge, I'm finding, is fitting all my travel gear into it, namely...

Tent

Sleeping Bag

Wet Suit plus hood, gloves, booties

Surf Wax

Surfboard Leash (though DD says I should learn to surf without one)

Fin Screws

Surf Fin Knife (screwdriver)

Toiletries

Extra Clothes... two t-shirts
                         extra shorts
                         travel skirt
                         flip flops

First Aid Kit

Matches

Mosquito Netting

and, other stuff to be determined.

Ideally, I want it minimalist. The ability to travel for weeks on end, preferably camping, using ultra-light camping gear and techniques.

My dream is to be an ultra-light Feral Surfer. As for money along the way? Well, cons and scams magic such as the Shell Game, Three Card Monte, Fast and Loose, and, of course, cardsharping. Naturally, there's always writing  and photography for the surf magazines too, if any want to follow the career of a gypsy girl Feral Soul Surfer about to travel the world!!!

Oh, and, the key thing I'll be doing, is using my chi gung to help and heal those in trouble or those who are sick or hurt.

Bodaciously  Stoked,

Lily of the Valley
                        
 
                   

Living Life as a Soul Surfer

Aloha Tribe,

So, some of you may be wondering what the term Soul Surfer means.  It is about true spirituality as it blends mind, body, and spirit. It is about finding oneself through movement, while one surfs, in harmony with the sea.

And, what in the world does all of that mean? Goodness, this could be a whole blog. To me, soul surfing is about doing what one loves, in this case, surfing, and, doing it, not for power or money or fame or such, but instead, for pure pleasure, as an expression of art reflected in spirit and in how one lives life.

Soul surfing is calmness. It is an inner peace, found in movement, through, stillness of action. The calmer and more relaxed one lives, the more one can embrace soul surfing. It is a way, a path if you want to think of it that way, yet, more so, it simply, is. It reflects itself as art in how you think and act and move and in how your surf and how you study the sea.

And, interestingly enough, there are great ways to train for it, to learn to embrace it, to find, in oneself while surfing, a sense of enlightenment and inner peace, expressed through living in the here-and-now in intensely yet paradoxically calming motion brought about and manifested as thinking really quickly, which, comes across as thinking and acting, thus, surfing, in, extreme slow motion.

To a true soul surfer, time stops almost, slowing to fractions of fractions of seconds, making, a single ride seem to last an eternity.

Expressed as energy, one could call it mana or zen or chi, or even maucht (in Scotland).

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Freediving the Impact Zone for Big Wave Surfing Training

Aloha Tribe,

I am a freediver and a surfer with a passionate interest in big wave surfing and big wave swimming. As most of you know,  I am, through this blog, training myself as well as, and, shall I say more importantly,  being trained directly under the incredible tuteledge of world famous big wave rider Darrick Doerner (DD).

The ace up my sleeve, yes, I am a cardsharp too (hey, it pays the bills), is my chi gung training for freediving and big wave surfing survival.

In my training, I am teaching myself to make the impact zone my playground. As such, I am spending as much time as I can there, experimenting with my various training specialties, while, focusing on playing, which, by the way, is the key to the whole thing. For, it is relaxation, not static relaxation like most freedivers and big wave surfers think, but creative playful relaxation that is the core and focus of my training due to it's vital importance.

Fortunatel, I am blessed at the moment to live in the wild Pacific Northwest, in Washington State actually, where the surf is as wild as it comes. Now sure, we don't have the beautifully formed surfable waves like Hawaii, but, if you want Impact Zone Training that will test you to the ultimate limits of human experience, you can pick no place better for the water is frigid, wild, dark, untamed, and feral.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Disappearing into the Sea

Aloha Tribe,

So, some of you may have noticed the long gaps in my blog. What originally started as an ideal every day writing has turned into jotting down thoughts between swells. Sometimes, long sets of swells.

I've been surfing. Lots. And, the more I do, the more I must. My every waking thought now is of surfing. I do it. I study about it. I contemplate it. And, I dream of surfing. When I'm not surfing, I'm training my surfing skills. Skills of observation of the sea, balance, flexibility, studying rhythm of waves and music, increasing strength, and, honing muscles shaped by water.

I'm finding that I'm disappearing. Disappearing into the sea. Becoming one with her. Feeling her, sensing her, embracing her. Being, her.

The more I  find myself riding upon the seas waves, dancing her lines between the edge, the more I find I need her touch, within me, deeply transforming me into her mysteries.

Surfing is becoming more about feeling than anything else. Which, to me, is not surprising in that it has always been movement, both external and internal, that has danced my soul and my body, creating sensations that make me smile upon reflection and remeberance, sometimes softly, sometimes, with ceiling clinging intensity.

I've many chores today, yet, I must away. My  board. My backpack. What more? Perhaps a duffle bag rather than a backpack. The right duffle bag. An over the shoulder model. Probably canvas. Well worn. Something like from Duluth Pack.  A feral surfer's duffel. Duluth Pack should make one, for, it would sell. Such thoughts, make me smile of untraveled journeys.

Daylight calls. What adventure abounds? Slacklining of course. And swimming. Between chores. To the surf, if I can. For, I must away with the sea filling my body.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Feral Surfing: Bush Surfing the Wilds

Aloha Tribe,

I've been thinking a lot about Feral Surfing lately. And, surfing, a lot. I'm feeling called, to go, out there. Somewhere. Not, for the perfect wave, but more so, for the perfect ride. The ride of my own soul. I"m finding that I'm changing inside. And, out. Brought about by the training  Darrick Doerner is giving me. He's introducing me to new things. New sensations. New feelings. Like bringing music to my surfing.

It's as though the clock is ticking backwards, making me younger with each passing hour of training. My body is responding. So, is my mind. I'm feeling the changes. Embracing them. And finding they are calling my spirit to yell with ecstatic yearning, twirling feet, and light movements.

This, of course, is deeply and profoundly effecting my surfing, bringing a sense of subtle movement within movements of stillness to my riding style, never before felt by me, yet, drawing me further along this adventureous step into the wilds.

The waves, they call to me now, constantly. In every sleeping moment, in each waking second. Whispering to me, sharing tales of unknown mysteries, longings, and desires.

I've chores to do today, yet, I seek instead, in a few moments, to cast aside all, turning to my cute orange vw bug, accepting the call of the swell.

Closing my blue eyes for but a second, I see an eternity of surfing movements in my mind, feel them in my body, surrender to them in my spirit.

Last night, I watched In God's Hands again. That surfing movie makes me smile. And, speaks to me. I wish I had been in it. It makes me long to be in a surf movie. I'd give anything to be in one. For, what fun. Yet, movies speak of harnesses, and, I surf as a wild filly mustang. Alone. Out there.

I'm changing. I feel it. My path is opening before me in the unexplored bush off the secret charts of Feral Surfing. One girl, one bag, one board. Alone. Drawn towards internal perfection through external mastery. The depths of such exploration, limitless. The treasure, boundless. Yet, just like the Count of Monte Cristo, I've already found it. Now, all that matters, is what I do with it.

With that, I smile. Heeding the flow.

Bodaciosuly Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Surfing the Wilds: Washington and Oregon

Aloha Tribe,

I just got back from a weeks lessons studying Surfing and Watergirl (waterman), training under Darrick Doerner (DD). I had a truly beautiful time and learned so much. DD rocks!!!

DD is shaping me into being the best Watergirl I can be, and I am learning  tons of things like how to  camp at the beach, how to catch my own sea food, how to set up a surf camp and basically, how to be a Feral Surfer.

I'm being trained in the Old-School ways. And, I couldn't be happier. I'm pushing myself beyond pushing, to truly fully embrace my new surfing lifestyle.

I'm learning to spearfish, harvest seaweed and cook it, play basketball, skateboard, get into and out of my wetsuit lighning fast, as well as to set up camp and tear it down with amazing speed (I have much work to do in this, of course).

I'm basically learning to travel with one board with one fin, my feral board, and one backpack (I'm still trying to get down to traveling with simply one backpack which holds my tent, my sleeping bag, one wetsuit, my clothes, bathroom supplies, surfwax, duct tape (of course - though, I do personally want so peace stickers and flower stickers for my hippy girl type board, named, Honu, by the way, the Sea Turtle.

Soon, I'll be able to surf without a leash, in the Old-School way. My swimming is improving, my muscles starting to respond to my Watergirl training, and my whole body is transforming.

Along with my body changing, my mind and spirit are fully embracing my new lifestyle, making me less of an extreme athlete and more softer, gentler, mellow, trippy, and smiling constantly while laughing at and with life.

My whole life I've been a martial artist to the extreme and an untouchable fencer and now, I am learning the way of being receptive. Of yielding. Blending. Of being one with the waves and sea.

I've even changed my jewelry from my tiger shark tooth necklace and tiger shark teeth earrings I've worn for the last few years to a guitar necklace (for my new appreciation 60's rock music), and surfboard earrings.

It's fun to feel the changes, to see them, to be them. I'm fasting a lot, and eating much less, sometimes merely about 60 calories a day for weeks on end.

My surfing is improving bit by bit. My balance, improving dramatically daily.

Training is taking me into all kinds of new areas. For example, I've been up since 1 AM this morning, doing Pop Ups, working on my Indo Board on balance disks, riding my bike, mountainboarding, putting on my wetsuit and taking it off again and again to loosen it up as well as to work on muscle flexibility in a sort of straight jacket kind of muscular exercise for muscle looseness, and, soon, I'll go outside again and work on my Gibbon Slackline. I'm also doing simple yet odd exercises like simply learning to carry my board gracefully and beautifully for several miles.

In addition, I'm constantly watching surfing movies in freeze frame to study movements and to feel the movements in my own body using the chi gung I do (a Chinese expression of art similar to Hawaiian mana - dealing with the bodies energy).

I'm still studying my three languages, of course, as well as incorporating drunken style kung fu into my surfing practice, particularly as it relates to my Indo Board and my NOHO Trainer.

Oh, and, this last week during my training, we had encounters with a bear, two great whites, several orcas, and, an aggressive pack of sea lions. It pretty much gave the whole training session a true feral wild, Pacific Northwest feel and flavor.

My goal is to train 18 to 20 hours a day. Surfing, 7 days a week when I can, shooting for at least 5 days a week and doing supplemental training when full weeks will not work out. I'd like to work up to surfing Dawn Patrol to last Glass Off (4 AM until about 10 PM) straight, but for now, the best I can do is manage several surfing sessions per day. I'm working hard on increasing their intensity level as well as how many there are each day.

Aloha Tribe and hugs to all,

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Summer Surfing Trips, Cons, Swindles, Cardsharping, Pickpocketing, and Magic

Aloha Tribe,

So, in addition to my daily surfing (as often as possible) and practicing and performing magic where ever I can - mostly the scoundrel con game type magic (the Shell Game, Fast and Loose, Three Card Monte, the Walrus Balls,  Cigar Magic and Cigar Manipulation, Zippo Lighter Manipulations, Cardsharping, Pickpocket Exhibitions,, and a few others - Cups and Balls, Linking Rings, Roy Rogers Rope Trick - busking), I have some surfing travel plans for the Summer and Fall.

I'll start off in a few weeks surfing with DD (Darrick Doerner in Washington, Oregon, and hopefully Vancouver Island,  while tenting during June. DD is not only working on me with my surfing but also with my Watergirl Training.

July will find me beginning my surfing trip down the Pacific Coast from Washington State to San Diego or even to Baja Mexico, tenting alone.

In August I'll meet up with DD and start surfing from Malibu north to northern California or as far as we get with our gypsy styled feral surfing plans of going where the waves call us each day. If I can, I'll stop at the Magic Castle in Hollywood as well as Venice Beach on a Jim Morrison Quest.

In early September I'll be surfing alone from northern California to Washington as I head home towards Seattle.

By mid-September  until mid-October I'll be hooking up with DD again and surfing the North Shore (of Oahu) .

After I leave DD in mid- October,  I'll stay on longer on the North Shore and simply surf by myself or with whoever I meet until early November, honing what I have learned throughout the Summer and Fall on the wild North Shore waves.

Sometime in the Winter/Late Winter - I'll possibly be heading back to the North Shore for more surfing and Watergirl Training under DD's mentorship for another 40 days or so.

In between those times, I'll be surfing and practicing cons, swindles, cardsharping,  knife throwing, pickpocketing, and other forms of magical entertainment, mostly in Washington State, Vancouver Island, and sometimes Oregon, with Annie as often as I can, otherwise, by myself.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Training for the North Shore

Aloha Tribe,

So, I've begun my training for the North Shore again. I'll be going in the Fall, after, my Pacific Coast surfing trip from Washington to Baja.

Here is what I'm planning for today as my North Shore of Oahu training.

I'll start with mountain biking first thing at first light (about an hour - probably starting about 4:30 AM or so in a few hours). Then, mountainboarding (probably 2 hours). Followed by Pop-Up training (for 1 1/2 hours of it - I try to do that daily and have since Valentine's Day),

By that time, it should be warmer  and sunnier (I hope) so I'll go swimming in the lake for some speed paddling on my surfboard. This afternoon, I'll probably go on another mountainboard ride and another mountain bike ride as well as my skateboard  (using a stand up paddling stick for skateboards in the park - my 6 foot tall bamboo Kahuna Big Stick - you ALL so must get one, they are just awesome!!!). And, tonight, I have horse riding lessons for about 5 hours. It will be a full day. I'll get some basketball in too between the other sessions today.

Tomorrow, surfing for the day. Sunday too hopefully.  Then, as much surfing next week as I can, hopefully for at least most of the week  or so. 

Love and Aloha,

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Surfing Oregon

Aloha Tribe,

So, after I got back from the North Shore of Oahu, I went to Oregon for a week and surfed around the breaks around Seaside. In the process, I studied the northern section of Oregon breaks in preparation for a surfing trip I am preparing for this Summer that will take me from Washington down to Southern California and hopefully, the Baja border.

Then, in the Fall, I will be going back to the North Shore for about 40 days or so of more surfing training around Samhain when every pro surfer in the world quests to the North Shore for the late Fall, early Winter competitions.

At the moment, I'm working on making my New VW Bug into a Baja Bug. The first thing I'm doing, of course, is getting a surfboard rack. Now granted, I can get my 9 foot longboards INSIDE of my Bug, and, even my 9'3" elephant gun,  but, my Feral Board is a 10 foot long BK longboard.

I'm becoming a feral surfer. A nomad of the swell. With my eyes on the horizon and my heart on the waves. I'll be bringing just one board, my feral board, along with a canvas rambler backpack, and a tent, all packed into and on top of my bright orange VW Bug. Hopefully, I'll have a safari cargo rack on top of the Bug, simply because, well, it's adventureous.

Aloha,

Bodaciously  Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Back From the North Shore

Aloha Tribe,

In case some of you may have been wondering where I've been for the last month, I've been on the North  Shore  (of Oahu) surfing and learning my Watergirl Skills. Adventures galore!!!

I"m now back. For the moment. But, I have a world of training ahead of me to get ready for. This week, I'll be surfing Washington most days. Next week, Oregon. Then, California. My goal in California is to, hopefully, hit every break. I'm going to start here in Washington, and, drive south along the coast until I get to San Diego. Perhaps, if I'm bold enough, I'll venture into Baja, time will tell on that one.

By August, roughly the third week or so, I plan to be about as far as Malibu. I'll probably be there for about a week. Malibu, as I see, now that I've done the North Shore of Oahu, is the capital of mainland surfing and, a pilgrimage we all need to make at least once.

Come the Fall, I'll be back on the North Shore again, probably for 40 days this time. Between now and then, surfing every day. As well as the supplemental training my mentor requires of me that I learned on the North Shore. 

My surfing adventure and training continues, and, based on my North Shore training, I'm totally stoked beyond all reason!!!   And, tanned.


Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

North Shore Surfing Watergirl Training (Girl's version of Waterman Training)

Aloha Tribe,

It's getting down to the wire now for my month long Surfing Training trip to Hawaii to train as a Watergirl. This is the beginning of my Watergirl Training. It's been an exciting last few months as I've been preparing. now that it is down to a matter of days before I go, in many ways, I wish I had about a month or two more to train to get ready.

My language skills in Surfing Language, Hawaiian, and Hawaiian Pidgin are coming along slowly, but, at least I feel like I'm starting to get the most basic of Basics down. And, as for my Physical Training, well, another two months would be very nice.

Last weekend I picked up my new Argent Elephant Gun. Argent is a very very light silver, so light, it almost looks white. She is a truly beautiful board, long, sleek, shapely, very very feminine looking. She'll be the fastest strongest surfboard ever shaped. It'll be fun to let her find her legs and put her through her paces, so to speak, sort of filly terms, in a way. I've not ridden her yet, her virgin trip will be on the North Shore itself, quite probably at Sunset Beach.

In addition to my Elephant Gun, I'll also be bringing my Lime Green Thruster. I was going to bring my longboard but since this is my first flight with boards, I thought I'd stick with two surfboards to see how I manage them.

The next few days I'll focus  on fasting on water to truly embrace my Watergirl training. It'll help give me hone an internal razor's edge physically, mentally, and spiritually.

I'm not sure exactly what my training will consist of yet, I'm being shaped  as a Watergirl by the world famous surfer and Waterman, Darrick Doerner. I am truly the most excited girl on the planet I believe, for what could be cooler than that.

I know I'll be doing some surfing, probably lots on the North Shore, some SUP (Stand Up Paddle Surfing) on Kauai for a bit,  lots of ocean swimming, and I'd imagine, tons of wave study and surf science study along with countless physical training on the beach.

When all is said and done, over a month from now, I'll more than likely be rather shredded, tanned, and in awesomely muscled shape.

My diet on the North Shore will be primarily fruit, perhaps with an occasional fish taco if I can find one. And, tons of water. It'll be a rather Spartan diet, yet, one I've been living with for over a year now and, enjoying and loving every moment of it.

I'm starting to get pretty excited about my trip. I watch the movie North Shore every day, along with 110% Surfing  Techniques Volumes 1 and 2. These three movies have been my Visualization Training focus and, I'd highly recommend them to everyone. Watching all three movies once to twice a day while exercising is a great way to tweak the mind and body.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

I've Been Surfing and training for the NORTH SHORE!!!

Aloha Tribe,

So, where have I been since my last post on March 5th? I've been surfing. A lot. Typically 4 to 6 days a week. I'm training for my trip to the North Shore where, for a month, I'll be honing my surfing skills and more so, training to become a Watergirl (the girl version of a Waterman).

I've  been training and surfing up to 17 hours a day, including swimming up to 6 hours straight, with Rocket Fins.

I'm starting to get in fairly decent shape :)

Another few weeks, and, I'll be ready for the North Shore.

Then, once there, I'll be living the dream of the North Shore movie training I've always dreamed of, regarding being an actress in the lead in that film.

In addition to physical training, I've been practicing my Hawaiian and my Hawiian Pidgin, as well as my Surfer Language.

So, all in all, things are coming together pretty well.

I'll add some more details later. Now, I have to go train.

Aloha,

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

February 28th Surfing And then Some

Aloha Tribe,

February 28th, I went with 7 people to go surfing. We took three cars. It was a exotically fun caravan through the wilds of the Pacific Northwest, including several very interesting parking lot tours.  We spent the day surfing in a fairly large bay, with beautiful one foot waves. Sure, they may not have been monsters, but you know what, that didn't matter in the least for it was truly beautiful fun that was had by all and we all caught waves and enjoyed ourselves totally. We had fun waves, fun food, a fun drive, and fun talking story. What more could a pod of surfers want?

The next Tuesday, I headed out to Wesport, intent on surfing for the next three days. Fate had other plans in store and I ended up having to drive home about midnight Tuesday night. Oh well, such is the life of a surfer girl.

I'm starting to round out my Hawaii surfing plans and have begun in earnest my training for that trip. For it, I'll be training about 12 hours a day of intense focused work to get into shape.

Today, I did a ton of mountainboarding on my mountainboard with 10 inch tires. It's an awesome ride and since I live in the woods, it was beautiful too.

Tomorrow, off on another surfing adventure, again to Westport. I've got my boards all set, as well as some of my gear, the rest to be stowed after dinner.

Sunday will be some intense lake training focusing on balance and paddling.

All in all, life is way totally grand. Ride surfer girl, ride!!!

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Surfing Tube Riding: Front Foot Rotation

Aloha Tribe,

Here in the Pacific Northwest, our tubes are, smaller than spots like, say Hawaii at, Pipeline. As such, they require crouching, often, very low crouching with your buns nearly on the deck. You'd be hard pressed to get Ziplocked if you're a Tube Rat of the wilds. Yet, it can be done, mostly in secret spots, but of course :)

Anyways, practice here in the Green Room is challenging simply because it's not every day, yet, when it happens, one can truly learn. In fact, if you're going to learn at all, you have to learn, and, quickly. Give the sea half a spell and your tube'll vanish until the moon dances again. So, the point of all of this is what I just learned in this mornings Dawn Patrol. Now granted, most of you probably already know this, but for me, it was new and fun. I found that by shifting my  right foot, I'm Goofy, after all, mostly, yet I can ride Switch for styles sake or waves beckoning. The point is though, with your lead foot, you simply turn it from the traditional 45 degree angle to the Stringer and instead, rotate on your heel and set your lead foot down parallel to and on the Stringer. This is enough to keep you from digging your left rail (assuming your ride Goofy) if your ankles (Achilles tendon and gastrocnemious - calf muscle) still need more flexibility. This slight shift in your lead foot position might just be the secret you've needed  to keep your  deck rock steady and utterly solid when  or if, you, as I, set my buns on the deck in a low crouch.

Foot shifing, especially subtle foot shifting, is something I learned from watching movies of Occy in extreme slow motion and frame by frame stop motion. He's feet seem magical and oh so light. So, watching his magic in, say, The Occymentary, you can see how his feet dance so lightly upon the deck. Which, gave me this idea.

You see, I noticed that my Frontside Rail would dig, ever so slightly, when I'd set my buns on the deck, and, while the rail shift was slight, I wanted to correct it. So, I began experimenting. Naturally, one can simply weight their heels, or, you can slip your feet ever so slightly to your backslide rail, yet, this move seemed easy, subtle, and flowing. It gave me the feeling of being light on my feet and dancing upon my deck, even from a low crouch.

You know, that's what I love about surfing. The explorations  and experimentations are endless. And in that, I find great art and beauty.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Soul Surfer: The Spiritual Quest

Aloha Tribe,

I'm finding that the more sensitive I get to my longboard, that is to say, the more aware I am of tiny movement fluctuations on the water, the more  I can sense the sea. By feeling the vibrations within my board, I'm noticing not only the chi of the bottom, but also, of the fish beneath my board. It's pretty cool.

I see it all as related. All, interconnected. The energy of the sea, and her creatures, the chi of the board, and my own energy, all mixed and blending and becoming one.  And the more I'm embracing this, the more subtle my awareness of it becomes.

I'm finding that turning my awareness to my board, and finding the chi of my board and through my board, now  is where I'm finding I'm having fun on my quest, my, spiritual quest into the depths of my board, and, of the surf.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

NOHO Surf Trainer Surfboard Dancing

Aloha Tribe,

Well, if you've gone to the NOHO Surf Trainer site, you've probably seen the video of the incredibly fun song Ride My See-Saw by the Moody Blues.

I love to put that cd in my stereo, pull up that song, hit repeat, and play the song again and again as I practice my moves on my board, after all, the video so inspired me, it was truly brilliant, and it's such a great rhythm for moving on your NOHO Surf Trainer.

I'm finding that more more I listen to music as I train, fun music with really moving beats like Ride My See-Saw, the looser I get in my movements in my training, which, transfer almost immediately to the water in my next surfing session. It's way cool!!!

I had the idea that the more time I spent on my NOHO Surf Trainer, the more time I could practice my surfing when I'm not in the water, so, while I just washed and dried my dishes, I stood on my Surf Trainer while dancing to music. It was great. And, the funny thing was, after I finished with the dishes and got off my board, it was truly amazing how "heavy" the floor felt. You know that feeling when you're in the water for a few hours, maybe 3 or 4, and you get out and all of a sudden, it's like gravity really hits you and your mind is nearly blown as you find you can barely move. Well, my training while washing the dishes was just like that, not because of the bouyancy of water and decreasing of gravity, but instead, because of being light on my feet on the board.

Now it's got me thinking of lugging my NOHO Surf Trainer all over my house as I do my different chores during the day. Laundry. Making the bed. Cooking. Washing dishes. Sweeping - this will be a fun one because of the added movement!!! I can hardly wait.

I'm finding that the more I'm on my NOHO Surf Trainer at home, and, the more time I'm on my surfboard in the water, simply being, moving, as I'd normally move, the more being on my board is becoming natural. And, the more natural my movements become on my board, the smoother and more beautiful my surfing becomes, and, with that, it allows me to be more receptive to the power and beauty and lessons of the ocean, which, is one of the things we all seek in surfing.

Such loose movments have me thinking of exploring tandem surfing. Granted, most of us see tandem surfing as an antiquated art, but, why not revive it? Just think what it could teach us about how we move with another person, and therefore, how we can move receptively with the waves. I think that such surfing would dramatically increase our skill as we surf, and, it'd be loads of fun!!!
 

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Surfboard Dancing : Hula Hips Surfing

Aloha Tribe,

Well, Ill be going to Hawaii soon on a surfing adventure, and as such, I've been thinking about Hula Dancing. Not my strong point. I so need to loosen my hips. And so, I've found a really fun way to do it. It can be done while sitting on your board, kneeling on your board, squatting on your board, or of course, standing.

And, it's a way of dancing with your surfboard and the sea. In this case, using your hips in soft hula swaying movements to work the rails, nose, and tail of your board. The idea came to me in yesterdays surfing session and I've practiced it a lot more today, refining what I learned yesterday.

The basic idea is to feel the flow of the sea, the natural rhythm that she offers you. And, embracing that rhythm, you simply begin to allow your body to loosen up and sway in soft, gentle, beautiful movements. You'll notice, as you do this, that your board will begin to move as you sway upon her in time with the sea.

Each undulation of the waves sends your body into receptive swaying, allowing the water to lead the dance.

As you get more into the movements, you'll begin to notice that you can dip any part of your board, such as either rail, your nose, or you tail, in any combination, to any degree of angle, to any depth beneath the surface, or, above it. And, that's where you can begin, if you like to spin your board as you sway. Spinning your board in 360's is the fun part because you can learn to do it truly fast or with soft, slow, sensual rotations, it's all up to you and how your own music plays in your head as you surf and dance with life. This can also be done, by the way, while laying upon the board and Paddling, by the way and it works just as effectively, you simply use different muscles in more creative ways, that's all.

Now, of course, when you first begin dancing like this on your board, you movements will be broad and perhaps a bit shakey. But, given some practice, you can soon gain control over your body and your board, as you dance with the sea. When you can do this smoothly, you'll find that you can make your initially extreme body movements less dramatic and more subtle, and, if you know how to do Chi Gung, you can do the whole dance simply with your bodies energy, the chi, as it flows within you, yet still allowing your board to dance. In other words, simply by projecting chi into the nose or tail or a rail, you can dig them, or, if you absorb chi from your board, you can lift your nose, tail, or rails. In order to do this, of course, you have to be able to project and absorb Chi, which, comes after you've learned to increase your natural storage supply of such internal energy.

Surfboard Dancing is awesomely fun, and, while it may not be for everyone, the thing is, it truly has something to offer everyone. For with it, you can learn more about your board and how your body moves, and the effects of your movements on your board in relation to any given sea condition, than you'd normally experience with more traditional surfing methods. The reason for this, is simply based on playfullness and creativity. By being relaxed, by having fun, by truly playing and allowing yourself to let go, your energy or chi will flow freely and as such, you'll gain greater awareness of the subtleties of your board and of the sea upon which you ride. This is an awesome thing because the more receptive you are to how waves effect your board and thus your riding, the more you can experiment and grow. And this, of course, allows for even greater experimentation and increased skill and awareness. The cycle, is, truly endless.

So, relax, let your hair down, and sway your hips. What have you got to lose beyond looking silly, and, who cares what others think anyways. After all, surfing is about having fun, and having fun means being playful, so, let your inner child come out and truly surf. Try Hula Hips Surfing. You'll be glad that you did.

By the way, if you really want to perfect this, buy yourself a NOHO Surf Trainer for it is truly awesome for learning Surfboard Dancing. You can perfect your flowing moves in the safety and privacy of your own home, and then, when you are confident, bring your beauty to the surf.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Surfing Paddling Styles: 360's and 180's

Aloha Tribe,

We all spend a lot of time paddling out. The thing is, how many of us truly love it? More so, how many make it fun and play with it!!! I for one, have, for the shear joy of it.

One of my recent experiments and training sessions involved Paddling Out while spinning my longboard in 360's as well as 180's.

Now granted, at first thought, there might not be too much of a reason for doing such a thing, until, one looks at it deeply, which, I have. You see, such study is all about rail mastery. And, she who can control her rails, more so, turn rail digging into art,  truly  opens up a whole new world to her surfing.

When Paddling Out with 360's,  you start with the normal Freestyle paddling stroke, then, as your board turns 180,  you begin more of a Paddling Backstroke, in a sense, in that your arms move in the opposite direction just like they do when you Backstroke swim. So, in other words, mid-Paddle, you switch our paddling direction as your board spins. It's pretty cool.

I started out simply by working my rails as I Paddled Out, allowing my board to Zigzag through the water in slow, gentle curving arcs. And, once I got comfortable with Paddling Out while rocking my board from rail to rail like that, I began to experiment with rotating and thus Spinning my board, eventually, into 360's after a few times of practice. It was way awesome. :)  

More so, playing with Paddling Out like this makes this aspect of our sport and art into something fun, and, turns what we do into arstistic expression.

I don't know  how many of you play while you Paddle Out, I suppose most are simply focused on getting out to the Line-Up. But, why not have fun in the process, and, why not learn something more about your board, and yourself too in the process!!!

And, this of course, is merely the beginning. You see, one of the moves I love is the Paddle Out Reentry. So, by combining a Paddling Out 180 with the perfect timing of the incoming wave, you can time it so you're in the right position on the new wave face at the perfect time to begin a new Pop Up and a new Ride.

To do this, one needs to truly become one with the waves and to understand exactly when and where they will break and precisely where the peak will be. It turns the aspect of wave analysis into art also as you become, in a way, a Wave Shaman or Wave Kahoona.  And what could be cooler about that for it offers such truly indepth studys of waves and the sea.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Longboard Surfboard 360's Spinning

Aloha Tribe,

Yesterday was a wildly fun day on the water. I spent my session learning to spin my board. At first, I simply wanted to do it while sittiing in the lineup. Instead of slowly paddling my board around, as a wave came, I wanted to simply use my inner thighs to control my board, with my hands free in the air. By applying various degrees of pressure with my inner thigh  muscles, I  was quickly able to learn to dip the nose of my board and angle it down so my board would spin either clockwise or counterclockwise.

Next, once I practiced the technique for a bit, I began to focus on board speed and spinning my 9 foot  longboard faster. I played with the speed for awhile until I was able to do it smoothly and consistently and then I focused on precision stopping the spin on a dime from either a clockwise or counterclockwise spin, then, either resuming the spin in the original direction or immediately reversing direction.

After working at all of the above for a few hours, I started doing some yoga on my longboard. I began with straight leg bends from the seated position, then moved into paddling from that position. Next, I worked on a modified form of Downward  Facing Dog by doing it from my knees, getting a great extension into my arms as I leaned forward.

At that point, I thought I'd try both the American and Chinese Splits to loosen up my legs a bit.  And I followed that by sitting cross-legged on my board and just feeling the movements of the water.

By this time, I wanted to try spinning my board from my knees. So, I began doing 360's off my knees, while kneeling in a seiza position where my buns were on my heels. When I had full control over that, I moved to a higher kneeling postition where my thighs were perpendicular to my board and the water. Next, I began experimenting with 360's from the Pop Up position, when you first land on your feet but have not stood yet.

All in all, it was a truly magical session offering me a beautiful study of digging my rails and playing with them with various degrees of pressure and using various body parts and muscles for control of the rails, nose, and tail.

During the course of all of that training, I kept my endurance up by doing wind sprint paddling sessions between each of the various maneuvers I was practicing. I couldn't have had more fun.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Crunches, Reverse Crunches, and Flutterkicks on NOHO Surf Trainer

Aloha Tribe,

Today, I've done perhaps a 1000 Pop Ups, several hours of lay down Paddling,  about 1000 squats, 200 Drop Knee Cutbacks, all on my NOHO Surf Trainer, and now, it's time to get to work.

Have any of you tried crunches and reverse crunches on your NOHO Surf Trainer? What about flutterkicks, just to get the legs in shape? They're all awesome for working the core. I've been doing them for the last 1/2 hour as I've been contemplating tonight's fish soup, which, I'll be making in just a bit. I'm not sure how many I did, I was more or less going as fast as possible, so it's probably in the neighborhood of maybe 900 or so crunches and reverse crunches and probably about the same number of flutterkicks. Just enough to warm up a bit before getting dinner ready.

Well, I guess this was just a quick one, but, I thought I'd share.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Longboard Surfing Constant Pressure Surfaces

Aloha Tribe,

I was thinking, last night, about Constant Pressure Surfaces. It kept me up for hours as my thoughts danced with board designs, sensory awareness skills,  and mathematics as they all related to these waves beneath waves.

You see, inside of waves, or, beneath them, if you want to think of it that way, are miniature duplicates of the waves we all love to ride. Now, for the most part, I'd imagine, surfing has to to focus on these waves within waves, yet, there are those who surf, who truly master them, namely, dolphins.

A surfboard floats on top of or partially between the edge of the water and the air. And, the level to which it floats is called bouyancy. The surfboard, as we all know, floats upon the wave. Well, beneath waves are other zones of waves with similar "edges," and these are the Constant Pressure Surfaces. So, what an animal like a dolphin does is it has the ability to sense these Constant Pressure Surfaces, and, since dolphins are neutrally bouyant, they can surf beneath what we would think of as the top of the water, on the top of the  Constant Pressure Surfaces. So, while the dolphin is completely under the water, as we'd think of it, the dolphin is on top of the Constant Pressure Surface beneath the surface of the wave. And, just as waves have peaks and faces and troughs, so do Constant Pressure Surfaces.

Hmm, perhaps some of you might be thinking, you stayed up until the wee hours of the morning thinking of that!!! Goodness, Lily, what for!!!

Such is my quest for the perfect feeling, I guess. Surfing, to me, is about feelings. That is to say, physical sensations. And, they are felt both with the muscles of the body, as we all perceive them, but also, for those who know how, they can be felt deep within the body too, in, what the Chinese call, Meridians. These Meridians are parthways, not unlike rivers actually, that run all over the inside of our bodies. And, the stuff that flows around them (though most used to think within them), is an energy Chinese call Chi. The core of the art of Chi Gung or Qigong, which, is basically the study of this energy.

By feeling the energy or chi of a wavee within your body, beyond simply in the muscles, you can connect with the wave in truly unique and beautiful ways. So, how does that all relate to Constant Pressure Surfaces?

Well, not only can the chi sensations be felt within our bodies, but also, outside of or beyond our bodies as well. An example, is sound or smell. An external stimuli comes from beyond us, to us and we then sense it. Well, physical sensations are the same way, Heat and cold can be felt. As can pressure. And, speed. As well as direction, to name but a few.

So, imagine yourself at your favorite break, surfing, as always, with an awareness of the surface of the wave, specifically, the correlation between the gravity force and the bouyancy force. So, according th Waves and Beaches by Willard Bascom, there are two forces that come into play, specifically Slope Drag vs. Hydrodynamic Drag. In other words, how well does your surfboard glide down the surface of the wave.  Dolphins, it seems, have a unique skin which enables them to sense the Contant Pressure Surfaces beneath the waves, and more specifically, to therefore glide down the slopes of these Constant Pressure Surfaces, thus, surfing underwater, so to speak.

And that got me to thinking. Can such Constant Pressure Surfaces be sensed? And, how would one do it?  And, why?

The answer is, they can indeed be sensed by a surfer who has trained themselves to interpret the chi of their environment. And how does it register? As a thickness or density. Sort of like standing on cotton candy, in a way. And as for the why, goodness, as they say with Harley's if  you have to ask that...

Actually, the why is the cool part. that by sensing such  Constant Pressure Surfaces, while you are surfing, this does a number of things for you. One, it brings you to the level of extreme sensory awareness, thereby making you hypersensitive to all physical experiences, thus, giving you, in a way, the stoke beyond all stokes. It is, but merely a way to play with a wave, to have fun, more fun, if you want to think of it that way, because, it offers greater sensations much more intensely.

As for board designs, now this is where it gets really wildly fun. Unless, the thought of shaping bores you to tears and you just want to ride. But, for those who dream of shaping, like I do, such thoughts dance in the imagination of how to create a new concept of board to handle such deeply intense physical sensations. Golly, I'd give anything to be trained by a Master Shaper, you know, for to be able to express such thoughts and dreams as the physical reality of a new board line, oh my gosh, it's enough to make a girl squeal in excitement. And, it's not just board designs which come into play but fin design too. Oh the artistry of it all!!!

Such thoughts come forth in the dark of night, contemplating the next days surf. So, if my longboard can be used to detect such Constant Pressure Surfaces, what about, an Elephant Gun!!! Which, of course, makes me wonder about rockers. But, that's for tonights sleepless night to reflect upon. God how I want to go Night Surfing. The New Moon was Valentines. Oh poo. And the Full Moon isn't until the 28th. Then again, I'll be surfing my favorite break again on the 28th, after all, that's the last day of the month of Lupercalia. For, what could be more within the surfer's soul than the spirit of the dolphin and the soul of the wave, just as, within each waves dances the heart of Constant Pressure Surfaces, just teasing to express themselves.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

Waves and Beaches Study for Surfing Depth

Aloha Tribe,

So, I was reading a truly great book on shaping called The Basics of Surfboard  Design by Bob Smith. I think the book is awesome. It doesn't really get into how to make a board, that is to say, it doesn't focus on the techniques of how to cut foam or lay down glass, instead, if focuses on the concepts behind why boards work. The book gave me insight into truly studying my own boards, and as such, I got ideas of how to push them to test the limits of their lines.

Well, here's the cool thing. The book also references another book. A book that, Bob Smith says, that many surfers have, but how few truly enjoy studying it. So naturally, I HAD to get Waves and Beaches by  Willard Bascom.

You see, how surfboards work, and how beaches form waves, and why waves are as they are, and how different lines on boards effect their rides in certain waves and on different kinds of beaches, utterly fascinates me. For, I see this study as the core of our art. With it, we can find out who we are, for such knowledge offers personal insight into why we ride as we do and what we can expect.

So, Waves and Beaches arrived today. And, I'm utterly stoked. The only thing that could be better would be, perhaps, a sunny day and maybe a margarita to go with the book as I contemplate it's hidden gems and depths.

I know not what adventure awaits me in my studies of waves and beaches let alone the lines of surfboards, but, I know, that, when all is said and done, I'll know a little bit more about who I am.

Now I admit, I got into figuring out wave speed today in direct relation to maximum longboard paddling speed vs. wave length and wave height. And, such mathematical calculations made my eyes dance with life as I ran scenario after scenario through my mind of different breaks.

For you see, it's the subtle things, the tiniest of things that draw me and fascinate me, for, with them, comes, in time, mastery of art, and, mastery of self.

Perhaps, upon reflection, I'm a bit of a surfing science geek, dreaming of physics and math, bathymetrics and Gravitational Wave Analysis. My mind races at the possibilities, and, the conversations.

One of my favorite things to do, when I'm not surfing, is studying surfing and talking about surfing, preferably, at a pub, beer in hand, or even more to my choice, margaritas swirling waves before my mind.

When I think of surfing, I admit it, I think of the Marvel comic book Superhero too, the Silver Surfer as he flies on his board through endless space. I have almost the complete collection, minus only 6 issues. Hmm, a surfer who loves math and comic books, goodness, I'm afraid the Tribe might revoke my surfing license. :) At least I can round those odd interests out with my love of throwing knives and sticking a blade into a playing card stuck on a tree from 42 feet, without a single spin of the thrown knife. Surfers are a unique bunch, it seems.  And, I suppose, that's what makes parties such wild fun. But, getting back to the Silver Surfer, what draws me to him, besides the beautiful art and how it inspires me to move, is the paths his board takes as he surfs the stars. It's funny, but just looking at a single cover or but one page, I can feel his ride within me, the turning of his board, the speed as he races to unknown worlds, the pull of centrifical force as he slingshots around stars.  That's what surfing offers all of us, the ability to feel, to truly feel movement within our bodies. And, that is what we play with and how we play and why we play. Our sport, our art, is one of pure personal pleasure. Felt within our own bodies, as well as mutually shared when we are even more stoked for someone elses ride. Few in the world experience such bonding with others as we, the members of the Tribe. We can simply look into the eyes of another surfer, and see their life and their rides and feel them within ourselves in that moment of connction, and, what could be more beautiful than that?

And it all comes from our awareness of that which we do, our surfing. Whether it is experiential, or through study or both, such dreams become magic, and such magic, well, that is our dreams.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley

NOHO Surf Trainer Workout: SUP, Pop UPs, Rail Grabs, Drop Knee Cutbacks, Cross-Stepping, and lots of lay down Paddling

Aloha Tribe,

So, today I'm at home, at least for the moment. Perhaps I can get to the water later. Most certainly, for the full weekend coming up. :)

This morning, I've been doing some fun training.

I set up my NOHO Surf Trainer on my 9 foot Robert August What I Ride Longboard and got to work. I began by using my 6 foot Kahuna Big Stick to represent SUP (Stand Up Paddleboarding).  The Kahuna Big Stick is about the right length and weight to simulate a real paddle. It  was great. I got the idea from Laird Hamiltons' awesome book Force of Nature. So, I did SUP for about a half hour or so.

Then, I did my first half hour session of my typical hour and a half session of Pop Ups on my NOHO Surf Trainer. Basically, I'd lay on the board and paddle for 50 strokes, then, I'd Pup Up. Once I was up, I'd Cross Step the length of the board, Hang Ten, Cross Step back, and drop to a Prone Out then do the sequence again, interespersed with periodic bursts of repetitive Pop UPs, just for fun.

Next, I practiced a combination of Drop Knee Cutbacks on my NOHO Surf Trainer to work my legs a bit, and also Rail Grabs in various combinations, to add more leg work from deep squats all the way down to the board.

I planned to try  some Nose 360's and Tail 360's outdoors but it's 28 F outside. So, I opted to stay in. I don't have enough room in my Surfing Room to spin my longboard so I'll have to do them outside on a warmer day.

Intead of the 360's, I did more Pop UPs  and lots more  lay down Paddling.

So far, it's been a pretty awesome workout.

Now, I'll do another 1000 crunches on my NOHO Surf Trainer. It's fun to do them this way because it adds a strong core stability training to crunches. I'll also put on my fins and do another 1000 flutter kicks, also on my NOHO Surf Trainer to work both my upper and lower abs using both exercises.

Bodaciously Stoked,

Lily of the Valley